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Effect of primer weight on speed

Whidden die is best? I see they sell expander balls of different sizes. Very flexible system. It definitely will prevent the lesser donut on the false shoulder. Could still get a donut on the neck shoulder junction, but the bullet does not touch there.

BTW: I have only twice (in 3 years) experienced a donut forming on the false shoulder, both times on SRP brass, and typically after 10-12 firings of the brass. [Large rifle primer brass do not survive that long, primer pockets open up before that. An unfortunate disadvantage of brass that lasts ‘too’ long....]

@47guy: Presume you meant this combo kit:


I will give it a try.
 
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Whidden die is best? I see they sell expander balls of different sizes. Very flexible system. It definitely will prevent the lesser donut on the false shoulder. Could still get a donut on the neck shoulder junction, but the bullet does not touch there.

BTW: I have only twice (in 3 years) experienced a donut forming on the false shoulder, both times on SRP brass, and typically after 10-12 firings of the brass. [Large rifle primer brass do not survive that long, primer pockets open up before that. An unfortunate disadvantage of brass that last ‘too’ long....]

@47guy: Presume you meant this combo kit:


I will give it a try.

yes but the click adjust is up to you...Forster dies are nice as well and less expensive...personally the only dies I’ve used in the last 8-10yrs have been Whidden before that Forster.
 
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Btw: When my hand loads work the way they are supposed to, i get about 2-2.5” of vertical deflection at 600 yards. When it does not, then that number can double, or worse...

First target i waited for the wind to blow the usual amount.

Second target, i ignored the wind changes to see the wind drift effect. Both show about 2.5” of vertical. Not because my ammo is great, but mostly because positive compensation works as advertised. This was from a stock Savage 12 LRP in 6.5 CM.

If i can always make ammo that shoots like this, my reloading journey is done. Trouble is, it does not always work like below... Gremlins come and go.

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A8259F63-D9BC-4F39-9071-8BC0E18B3ED2.jpeg
 
positive compensation is when the faster bullets exit the barrel when its at its lowest point and the slower bullets exit at the higher point and in theory should intersect at a given distance and i guess you tune it for that distance which sounds great for a rifle thats going to be shot at one distance.

personally i want my rifle to shoot at all distances...i shoot groups at 100yds and normally have at least 2 charges that shoot good at 100 and sometimes 3...i then take the best groups and shoot them at 425yds or 550yds depending on weather conditions at the time and best group wins...i do not chase charge weight in .1g increments(EVER)and 99% of the time i do not chase seating depth and never play with neck tension and rarely chase primers...well i guess i do play with these things but only when im board.

now as far as Gremlins go 9 times outta 10 these are self inflected...if your gun shot a one hole group yesterday it will shoot a one hole group today unless theres some kinda big change in weather the load or the shooter and 99% of the time its the shooter...no one can go out and shoot one hole groups every day.

you need to have confidence in your gear if you doubt your gun and or your loads chances are your never going to be consistent and that doubt will cost you points.

and FYI...the BR and F-class guys would love to see a water line like that.
 
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Fair point: I agree that a load that exploits Positive Compensation works perfectly only over a limited range of distances. How narrow i am not sure. I know i have/had a different load for 200 yards compared to 600 yards, for my target rifles.

I guess you could shoot the same batch of ammo through multiple (very thin) paper targets at say 100, 200, 400 etc. So each shot hopefully leaves one hole per target. Would be a fun experiment to try....

[BTW: Bryan Litz used such an approach to debunk the widely held belief that bullets “go to sleep” after say 150 yards, the contention that bullets are moving in a converging spiral that eventually settles down like a spinning top, all related to the old claim that some guns will shoot 0.5 MOA groups at longer distances, and far bigger groups at 100. The reality was that people aim more accurately if the target is really small and/or distant.]

Gremlins = operator error? Very likely true.

Yes, confidence is everything!
 
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A good load via positive compensation is still going to be a good load elsewhere, it’s mainly just the benchrest level of honing in on it to get as extremely tuned of a system as possible. Yeah it may open up a tenth of so more elsewhere but shit, I can’t shoot that well. I just know what gives me a pleasing group.
 
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My hunting rifles use one load per bullet type, but the accuracy requirement is not as strict. If a hunting rifle shoots 0.75 MOA or better, it is just fine. I have no intention of shooting at animals further out than 400 yards.

If an animal moves after you have pulled the trigger, it can cause a problem.
 
OK, reloaded the Alpha brass at 0.2 grains lower, got back into the middle of the rifle’s lower node, and got an SD of 7 fps, ES around 30 fps. Deleted the slower cold bore shot. Batch initially hovered around 6.4 fps SD but later crept up a little.

Shot a few one hole groups with the MPA rifle at 100, with the best three shot group just under 0.1” c2c. I normally shoot five shot groups, but struggled to see where shot 4 and 5 went when most are touching. Luck or skill, who knows. Average was well below 0.4”. After that got 1.5”-2.5” groups at 300 in a 3-8 mph variable wind, and at least a few were touching. Elongated oval shape at a slight angle (high berm behind the target).

That made me happy. Time to load more and practice. I am still the weak link, by far. All the less than ideal shots i could have plotted on paper before looking for the hole. The gun shoots where you point it, i just need to point better now.

Intend to stick a piece of paper on the stock exhorting myself to “Suck LESS!”

Whidden click adjustable non-bushing FL die plus expander buttons are all in the hands of Fedex now. Will update this thread once i have results. Would be nice to avoid donuts on the false shoulder in future... They really mess with your results.

Thank you all for the advice and help!
 
Whidden non-bushing die is on the way... Have also started with a new batch of Lapua brass, so far it has not been neck turned. Want to see if i can avoid neck turning.
 
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Several of my shooting friends and I have experimented with neck turning and have found no difference in ES, SD's or accuracy with one exception - a bench rest barrel with a super tight neck. It would not accept even the best brass unless it was turned. Now, that barrel was an exceptional shooter but very picky with feeding.

One of my friends started to experience neck splits; which kind of made sense since the necks were made thinner and had to expand to fill his "no turn" chamber neck. The brass was getting worked more and, yes, he did anneal. I gave it up and have not looked back.
 
I am VERY keen on SIMPLIFYING my reloading procedure.

These steps are what i intend to delete one at a time, until i see a degradation in 600 yard groups.

1) Neck turning: Buy either Lapua, Alpha or Peterson. I might cull one or two if truly needed. MPA neck is a little tight, so will pick the brand of brass that fits and has 3 thou or slightly more neck clearance, which probably rules out Alpha.

2) STOP Bullet sorting: Buy Berger Hybrids and be happy. Maybe spot check the batch, say weigh and measure 20 bullets the first time i open the box. Sell if out of spec. Should be rare occurrence.

3) Primer sorting: Check once if the batch has narrow enough weight range, if not, get a different batch. Might cull the worst outliers as i prime the cases (one at a time).

4) FL size only, avoid neck sizing. Bump shoulder 2 thou once i get to 3x fired. Brass goes with one rifle only.

5) Leave the flash holes and primer pockets unmolested. Just buy good brass. Cull as needed.

6) Weigh to within 0.04 grain (two kernels), just throw back some powder if the autotrickler overruns. Less OCD.

7) Delete concentricity measurement step. Wilson seater is superb, depends more on FL sizer. If you drop a piece of brass on a concrete floor, just put it into the warm up pile.

8) Anneal every third reload.

9) No more reaming inside the necks. If a donut develops, chuck the whole batch of brass. Start over.

I intend to clean the chamber well every time i get back, so n carbon ring never shows up.

Will trim brass every time, even if only some grow in length. This is slow, but a safety issue.

I intend to keep on tumbling in corn cob with mineral spirits plus Nushine car wax. Had real problems with bullet weld before. This cured it, mostly. If problReseat at the bench.

Will continue to clean primer pockets with a wire brush and the Lyman case prep center. Might skip squaring the primer pocket ever time.

Will clean barrel once in about 200 rounds. Let ‘copper equilibrium’ do its job.

Spend time to find a good wide node with good positive compensation. Aim for SD of 9 or a little less. I am not going to obsess about ES anymore. Assume SD can be controlled and ES will do what ES does... (keep growing slowly the more rounds you shoot...).

What am i missing from the list?
 
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1 Lapua is going to be your best bet for not turning

2 don’t worry about measuring any bullets unless switching lot numbers...buy enough of same lot to shoot out a barrel

3 IMHO primer sorting is a waste of time....there are to many variables...I’ve chased ESs for years...I’ve had and still have cases that shoot faster or slower than the rest of a group..I mark them and next time I shoot that or those cases the numbers are in line

4 is good

5 is good

6 is good

7 is good

8 is good I guess

9 if your seated above the neck shoulder junction don’t worry about the doughnuts they don’t effect you unless your seating deeper than the neck shoulder junction

let the barrel tell you when it needs cleaned...I shot 900 rounds through a 6cm with no cleaning and I’ve cleaned every time when I shot more than 20 rounds...I do not clean every time because I’m lazy but I honestly believe a barrel shoots best from about the first 5-10 to between50-100 rounds after being cleaned...I clean between 100-150 rounds...most of the time.
 
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1 Lapua is going to be your best bet for not turning

2 don’t worry about measuring any bullets unless switching lot numbers...buy enough of same lot to shoot out a barrel

3 IMHO primer sorting is a waste of time....there are to many variables...I’ve chased ESs for years...I’ve had and still have cases that shoot faster or slower than the rest of a group..I mark them and next time I shoot that or those cases the numbers are in line

4 is good

5 is good

6 is good

7 is good

8 is good I guess

9 if your seated above the neck shoulder junction don’t worry about the doughnuts they don’t effect you unless your seating deeper than the neck shoulder junction

let the barrel tell you when it needs cleaned...I shot 900 rounds through a 6cm with no cleaning and I’ve cleaned every time when I shot more than 20 rounds...I do not clean every time because I’m lazy but I honestly believe a barrel shoots best from about the first 5-10 to between50-100 rounds after being cleaned...I clean between 100-150 rounds...most of the time.

Thanks for the detailed response Mr. 47, it is most helpful!

Used to clean every time i came back from the range. Also noticed that the gun shot better after 50 rounds... i guess “copper equilibrium” must be real. Recently, i clean around every 200 rounds. Might still chuck a bronze brush in the drill every now and then and scrub the neck portion of the chamber to avoid a carbon ring from forming.
 
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Got this result last weekend, very happy with that!

Got a few tiny groups at 100, most were below 035”, including one oval three shot group (0.08”), then moved to 300 yards where the best three shot groups was 0.7” which is 0.22 MOA. Maybe luck, as it was only a three shot group... Average at 300 was around 1.5”. Waited for the typical wind condition to return, used a propellor/daisy type wind indicator.

Not yet ready for serious competition, but getting a little closer...

All in all: Not a bad result for 300 yards in a variable 3-5 mph wind - for an amateur. Very happy with the progress, but more to be done. Onwards and upwards!

And yes the MPA rifle shoots really well. Now i just need to learn to suck less on the trigger!

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you see what happens when you stop over thinking and find your happy place....ive said for years reloading is the most over thought thing ever...i dont think NASA puts as much thought into sending a rocket into space as a lot of reloaders put into sending a copper wrapped piece of lead a 100yds down range LOL!!

was the above with outta the box brass with no prep work done to it?
 
you see what happens when you stop over thinking and find your happy place....ive said for years reloading is the most over thought thing ever...i dont think NASA puts as much thought into sending a rocket into space as a lot of reloaders put into sending a copper wrapped piece of lead a 100yds down range LOL!!

was the above with outta the box brass with no prep work done to it?

This was Alpha brass. Was forced to neck turn them, 6x fired, thick brass and tight chamber, so they had very little neck clearance. Bullet would not drop freely into the fired brass, had to push it through... will avoid using thick brass in the MPA in future.

The out-of-the-box zero prep unmolested Lapua brass will be the next batch to shoot. Already loaded. Will then be easy to compare. I bet it is going to shoot well. Sadly, i got a bad cold, so it might be a week before i get to that.

Will keep you posted!

This is first and foremost a “head game”... and confidence is everything.

Took a while to learn how to “drive” the new left hand MPA chassis, with it’s vertical grip, thumb shelf, using an Accutac SR5 bipod at 45 degrees (superb, no wiggle) rather than a BR rest and free recoil. All coming together now.

Will update when i get new results. Thanks to all for the superb advice. You guys rock!
 
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Do it again, but this time keep track of what velocity goes with which cartridge case. Punch out the empty primer cups and weigh again. Report the data as a function of primer material, not primer cup + primer material. Did you weigh sort your projectiles? How consistent is your case volume? Finally, what is the precision of the magnetospeed? I mean, is 2760 really 2760, or could it be 2770 or 2750. There's a lot of variables, and primer weight seems to be a really small one. By your own admission "the fit only accounts for 23% of the variability." A better way to say this is that the fit is not supported by the data.

I know this thread is VERY old, but i have finally accumulated enough very light and very heavy primers to rerun my experiment with a wider range of primer weights. Took over a 1000 primers to get this small subset together. CCI450s. It seems CCI does such a good job, i did not have enough variability in my X variable last time to get a good R-square (degree of fit).

This time primer weight varied from 235 milligrams to 247 mg, so 12 mg total range. R-square came out at 62%, which is good.

Conclusions:

1) The effect of primer weight on speed is very real: Primer weight does affect muzzle velocity. Every milligram of additional primer weight adds about 3 fps to MV in my 26” barrel 6.5 Creedmoor. There is some degree of uncertainty in this nr, could be anywhere from 2-4 fps. [Primer Weight is probably not a perfect analogy for the actual amount of explosive material being ignited inside the primer cup, but it is all we can directly measure before firing it. And quite frankly it works well enough. Yes I am confident measuring primers before and after firing and subtracting would have produced a higher R square value. The physics is well understood in this case. The metal components of the primer have very small weight variation - i did check it last time. Most of the weight variation comes from primer material.]

2) However, from a practical point of view, a good batch of primers (like the one i used) often has so little variation in primer weight that the effort of sorting primers by weight does not always provide enough benefit for the amount of effort involved. Amongst 1000 CCI primers i looked at, over several months, maybe a total of 30 were really “too light” or “too heavy”, assuming your goal is to prevent your SD from increasing more than 2.0 fps. You might find 1 or 2 weird primers when loading 50 to 100 rounds. [If you are competing in 1000 yard F-class competitions or the BR group shooting game, then yes it makes sense to weight sort your primers to reduce vertical dispersion, or at least cull out the bad ones, because one bad shot can cost you several points. If you are middle of the pack in a PRS match, i would say no need to do it.]

3) If you manually weigh your primers one at a time (a royal pain in the behind), you can just as well put them into different batches, and shoot one batch at a time. I have done this for the past 1000 rounds. But this is total overkill. But did it help? Yes it helped, but only a little bit: SDs came down from 8-12 range to 6-9 fps. ES came down by about 4-5 fps. Maybe! [If your large batch (strings of 100 rounds plus) SD is below 7 fps you will benefit from weight sorting. A very nice low 5 round SD found during load development is not a reliable indicator of how well your ammo will perform weeks later when ambient is higher, the barrel is more fouled, and the lands have moved forward several thou. Measure a full 50 shot string!]

3) Weight sorting into 1 mg bins is overkill: All you really need to do is cull out the very light or very heavy primers. And they are rare! If primer weight varies by 3-4 mg, the speed impact is too small to bother (9-12 fps total, similar to other effects like neck tension, ogive and bullet weight variations), and not enough to cause problems for say PRS. Yes ES might go from 20 to 30 fps, some of the time, but most of the time it will be an increase from say 20 to maybe 23 fps.

4) If someone far more clever than me could please design a primer sorting machine that works with an FX120, i would buy it! Adam MacDonald, are you receiving?

Below the x-axis shows primer weight in milligram, y-axis is muzzle velocity in feet per second, using CCI450 primers and RL-17 in neck turned annealed weight sorted Lapua brass, weight sorted bullets:


EC8415A0-7536-4A1B-AC42-0DE71EE47084.jpeg


So in short, an “unlucky” primer can move you out of the node (the flat portion of the speed graph). But very heavy/very light primers (way off from the average, by 6-10 mg) are seen fairly rarely. Decide for yourself if it is worth the effort.

IMO if your SD is above 10 fps, i think it is not a good way to spend your time. Rather go figure out your neck tension issues and “re-discover” your node.

Personally, i really hope to avoid weight sorting of primers. I plan to do a quality check on every new batch, so weigh 20 primers from the new batch, and if the ES is below 5 mg, i will not weight sort it. If it is way more, i will try to find better primers. If i cannot get better primers, then yes i will weight sort, and bitch all the time while doing it. There is a friendly local F-class 1000 yard match in Houston, and for that i plan to weight sort.

Hope this is helpful!
 
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Do it again, but this time keep track of what velocity goes with which cartridge case. Punch out the empty primer cups and weigh again. Report the data as a function of primer material, not primer cup + primer material. Did you weigh sort your projectiles? How consistent is your case volume? Finally, what is the precision of the magnetospeed? I mean, is 2760 really 2760, or could it be 2770 or 2750. There's a lot of variables, and primer weight seems to be a really small one. By your own admission "the fit only accounts for 23% of the variability." A better way to say this is that the fit is not supported by the data.

Interesting that the original experiment (with a very narrow data range, ie poor experimental data quality) estimated a 2.3 fps per mg of primer weight increase. Latest result is 3 fps. True value is likely somewhere between 2 and 4.

Also R square improved a lot, from 23% (who knows if this is real) to slightly over 60%. The effect is real.

What you do with that knowledge is up to you! 😊

But i have to admit i HATE weight sorting primers and bullets. Trying to run meticulously designed experiments (once!), to figure out what i can STOP doing. Want to simplify my reloading by 50%.
 
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Btw: The bullets were sorted first by weight (into bins of 1 milligram, which is slightly better than 0.1 grain resolution), after that by base to ogive (bins of 4 thou).

As before, rounds were fired in random order. Bullets are HBN coated. Cold bore shot was used, as the speed appeared to be reasonable. Three shots were not recorded by the Labradar. Barrel was in a fouled state, with well over 100 rounds on it, and still shooting well.
 
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For what it is worth: Repeated the same test yesterday with all my accumulated Federal GMM205 primers (about 20) that were very light or very heavy. The Federal primers had less variability than the CCI450 primers, at least for these two batches.

Federal GMM205: Got a Least Squares estimate of 2.4 fps per milligram of primer weight increase, but not enough super heavy or super light primers for the estimate to be a reliable estimate. Consequently the R-square was only 38.3%, which is not great. The CCI450 data gave 3.1 fps per mg, quite similar. I would assume the range is 2-4 fps/mg.

The R-square number implies that about 40% of the variability observed in speed was due to primer weight, the other 60% (the majority) was due to other factors we either did not measure, or could not ever measure.

It should be possible to measure these factors and do a better fit with many more inputs (a multivariable fit):
1) Barrel/chamber temp (there is a strong correlation).
2) Bullet seating force (moderate correlation).
3) Case volume (very strong correlation).
4) Bullet Concentricity and orientation of case inserted into the chamber relative to bullet angle (a weak effect).
5) Restriction in case ID due to a developing donut.

But clearly many effects remain that we just cannot measure:
1) Amount of dry lube accidentally left on the case.
2) How deep the bullet engraved the lands before coming to a stop (affecting effective initial combustion volume).
3) How far the case moved backwards against the ejector pin before it finally gripped the chamber.
4) How many times the bullet came to a stop inside the barrel before it finally got on its way.
5) Coefficient of friction between case and chamber, and between bullet and inside neck.

Might revisit this science experiment next year, for now i would prefer to shoot more!