need to get a 700 SA trued, but not the threads, im going to use a rem-age bbl and cant mess with the threads..
any idea what that should run?
any idea what that should run?
Gunsmithing estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
- Thread starter Ring
- Start date
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
Don't waste your money. Do it right or not at all, is my opinion. Set the barrel back and re-cut the threads. OR...really do it right and do an after market good barrel. JMHO
Don't waste your money. Do it right or not at all, is my opinion. Set the barrel back and re-cut the threads. OR...really do it right and do an after market good barrel. JMHO
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
agree with naval it would be in your best interest to just lop the threads of the old barrel and have a smith true and blueprint the action and rethread the barrel, this way instead of getting mass produced results you know you have a dead center bore alignment. Either way I paid $225 to get my 700 trued and blueprinted here in TX.
agree with naval it would be in your best interest to just lop the threads of the old barrel and have a smith true and blueprint the action and rethread the barrel, this way instead of getting mass produced results you know you have a dead center bore alignment. Either way I paid $225 to get my 700 trued and blueprinted here in TX.
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
Assuming your budget allows for only so much, ditch the receiver work and just have a premium barrel fitted.
That is your biggest bang for buck.
Assuming your budget allows for only so much, ditch the receiver work and just have a premium barrel fitted.
That is your biggest bang for buck.
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
ring and pyplyrn - email me about this ([email protected]).
I don't feel like getting into a pissing match of opinions that always starts here with a question like this.
Dan
ring and pyplyrn - email me about this ([email protected]).
I don't feel like getting into a pissing match of opinions that always starts here with a question like this.
Dan
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Assuming your budget allows for only so much, ditch the receiver work and just have a premium barrel fitted.
That is your biggest bang for buck.</div></div>
budget is the key word... going the rem-age route, i get a 260 CBI/kreiger bbl 26" 1"bull factory threaded, heavy pined lug, nut, and rem action wrench for 425$ that i can install and swap out for free at any time
now, while the CBI is not the best of the best, there and PLENTY of reports of these bbl's doing .3's
im not looking to build a BR gun, im looking to build a gun to use in tactical shoots.
this is the 700
when done, it will match my savage
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Assuming your budget allows for only so much, ditch the receiver work and just have a premium barrel fitted.
That is your biggest bang for buck.</div></div>
budget is the key word... going the rem-age route, i get a 260 CBI/kreiger bbl 26" 1"bull factory threaded, heavy pined lug, nut, and rem action wrench for 425$ that i can install and swap out for free at any time
now, while the CBI is not the best of the best, there and PLENTY of reports of these bbl's doing .3's
im not looking to build a BR gun, im looking to build a gun to use in tactical shoots.
this is the 700
when done, it will match my savage
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
One final thing to consider, when the action is trued the dimensions change so headspace will be affected.
One final thing to consider, when the action is trued the dimensions change so headspace will be affected.
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: X Ring Accuracy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One final thing to consider, when the action is trued the dimensions change so headspace will be affected.</div></div>
rem-age bbl... i can set the head space at home in 5 min
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: X Ring Accuracy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One final thing to consider, when the action is trued the dimensions change so headspace will be affected.</div></div>
rem-age bbl... i can set the head space at home in 5 min
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
so you basically just want the face of the action squared?
so you basically just want the face of the action squared?
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ajwcotton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so you basically just want the face of the action squared?</div></div>
that and lugs and bolt raceway... am i missing anything else?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ajwcotton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so you basically just want the face of the action squared?</div></div>
that and lugs and bolt raceway... am i missing anything else?
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
and that begs the question... i can lap the lugs my self, i can get a PTG bolt to match the current raceways... do i even need to send it out?
and that begs the question... i can lap the lugs my self, i can get a PTG bolt to match the current raceways... do i even need to send it out?
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ajwcotton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so you basically just want the face of the action squared?</div></div>
that and lugs and bolt raceway... am i missing anything else? </div></div>
The bolt raceway is not buying you anything in that case.
You want the lug abutments and tenon face trued to the threads essentially, and nothing else. Then you want the bolt lapped into the receiver lugs for good contact.
If you get the raceway cut then the smith is going to spend the time putting the receiver in place to the threads and there's no reason to run the raceway reamer in there like that. Reamers don't straighten holes, they just follow the pilot hole that's drilled already and make it "rounder" or toleranced tightly/tighter than the drill bit would.
This is why actions are trued to the raceway, and the raceway reaming doesn't change the orientation of it in the receiver it just cleans up the hole. You'd have to bore the raceway to change the orientation. SO, indicating to the raceway, then reaming, then truing everything else up allows the raceway to get "cleaned up" and everything else is than recut true to that raceway since it is treated as the new datum in the receiver.
Depending upon how bad the receiver threads are "out" to the raceway you can get the receiver trued and still use that Rem-age type barrel setup. If the threads are under around 1.070-1.072" once completely cleaned up then the barrel is still more than reasonable to spin it on there.
I've seen 1.085 receivers take a 1.060 barrel and while the fit was very sloppy, it still shot safely. I certainly wouldn't do it intentionally though.
An option is to have the 'smith just "knock out the taper and any high spots" and then you can lap the barrel into the receiver as well.
Now, in your case, what I've done to help out a friend who was super short on cash and trying to use what was on the shelf:
I trued the action tenon and bolt nose by holding the receiver in the 3 jaw chuck and recut all the mating surfaces in the tenon. The factory fixtures for machining hold on the OD of the receiver and this gave me the closest repeatable surface without working off the raceway. I avoided the raceway because I wanted to use the factory threads as much as possible.
All cleaned up the factory threads were 1.068 for the fitting sample that I made afterwards. (I was curious since they required very little to clean up).
The bolt raceway in the factory remington setup had lots of space, it allowed for me to completely ignore the raceway reaming and lap the lugs into the receiver for great contact and no issues came out of the skipped reaming op.
The barrel shoots under 1/2MOA and the rifle was bedded up properly. Overall it's an excellent shooter and you'd never know it was a half-assed experimental job.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ring</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ajwcotton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so you basically just want the face of the action squared?</div></div>
that and lugs and bolt raceway... am i missing anything else? </div></div>
The bolt raceway is not buying you anything in that case.
You want the lug abutments and tenon face trued to the threads essentially, and nothing else. Then you want the bolt lapped into the receiver lugs for good contact.
If you get the raceway cut then the smith is going to spend the time putting the receiver in place to the threads and there's no reason to run the raceway reamer in there like that. Reamers don't straighten holes, they just follow the pilot hole that's drilled already and make it "rounder" or toleranced tightly/tighter than the drill bit would.
This is why actions are trued to the raceway, and the raceway reaming doesn't change the orientation of it in the receiver it just cleans up the hole. You'd have to bore the raceway to change the orientation. SO, indicating to the raceway, then reaming, then truing everything else up allows the raceway to get "cleaned up" and everything else is than recut true to that raceway since it is treated as the new datum in the receiver.
Depending upon how bad the receiver threads are "out" to the raceway you can get the receiver trued and still use that Rem-age type barrel setup. If the threads are under around 1.070-1.072" once completely cleaned up then the barrel is still more than reasonable to spin it on there.
I've seen 1.085 receivers take a 1.060 barrel and while the fit was very sloppy, it still shot safely. I certainly wouldn't do it intentionally though.
An option is to have the 'smith just "knock out the taper and any high spots" and then you can lap the barrel into the receiver as well.
Now, in your case, what I've done to help out a friend who was super short on cash and trying to use what was on the shelf:
I trued the action tenon and bolt nose by holding the receiver in the 3 jaw chuck and recut all the mating surfaces in the tenon. The factory fixtures for machining hold on the OD of the receiver and this gave me the closest repeatable surface without working off the raceway. I avoided the raceway because I wanted to use the factory threads as much as possible.
All cleaned up the factory threads were 1.068 for the fitting sample that I made afterwards. (I was curious since they required very little to clean up).
The bolt raceway in the factory remington setup had lots of space, it allowed for me to completely ignore the raceway reaming and lap the lugs into the receiver for great contact and no issues came out of the skipped reaming op.
The barrel shoots under 1/2MOA and the rifle was bedded up properly. Overall it's an excellent shooter and you'd never know it was a half-assed experimental job.
Re: estamated price on trueing with out thread cut?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MDM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why not just screw it together and see how she shoots first? If you can get .5moa out of it consistantly, which is entirely possible, I would just run it as is. </div></div>
This is what my plan is. I just to get a heads up on places and prices of this service. If I can get 1/2 moa I will be thrilled. My build is gonna be a low rent, short barreled hunting rifle in the same caliber as my target rifles. More of a project gun than anything.
Ring, I'm not trying to hijack your thread but I'd like to keep in touch on your project. It will be 12 weeks before my barrel is finished, so I've got some time to feel out more options.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MDM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why not just screw it together and see how she shoots first? If you can get .5moa out of it consistantly, which is entirely possible, I would just run it as is. </div></div>
This is what my plan is. I just to get a heads up on places and prices of this service. If I can get 1/2 moa I will be thrilled. My build is gonna be a low rent, short barreled hunting rifle in the same caliber as my target rifles. More of a project gun than anything.
Ring, I'm not trying to hijack your thread but I'd like to keep in touch on your project. It will be 12 weeks before my barrel is finished, so I've got some time to feel out more options.
