So I started reloading over the weekend - I looked up the correct starting load for my 308 and went to town. I started at 45 grains. Question is, is it OK to be at +/- 0.1 or 0.2 grains? Accuracy wise that is. I religiously tried to dump exactly 45.00 grains in every brass...
Exact load - how OCD should you be?
- Thread starter gulada97
- Start date
it all depends on what YOUR needs are.
if your goal is supreme accuracy, then it MAY make a difference.
if you are making plinking, have fun loads, then it MAY not matter.
this is why most do an OCW test. then .1 or .2 doesn't really matter if you are in the node.
all reloading or picking a charge starts with load development in my opinion.
if your goal is supreme accuracy, then it MAY make a difference.
if you are making plinking, have fun loads, then it MAY not matter.
this is why most do an OCW test. then .1 or .2 doesn't really matter if you are in the node.
all reloading or picking a charge starts with load development in my opinion.
It's all about how OCD you want to get, because yeah, it matters... that's why some guys buy crazy expensive $5000.00 powder droppers and $1000.00 scales, or use less pricey stuff and just take 2 hours to drop powder for 50 rounds dropping then trickling lol.
You may want to look into some of the newer temperature stable ball-type powders, because then precise drops can be much easier without all the time or expense. The usual "industry standard" stick powders like Varget, H4350, etc are awesome, but I'm not patient or spendy enough to use them for my purposes but still want consistent ammo, so I'm a convert.
You may want to look into some of the newer temperature stable ball-type powders, because then precise drops can be much easier without all the time or expense. The usual "industry standard" stick powders like Varget, H4350, etc are awesome, but I'm not patient or spendy enough to use them for my purposes but still want consistent ammo, so I'm a convert.
Roger not familiar with BLC2 other than its a ball powder that flows awesome through a measure, can be used for .308, I think it was the original or close to for mil use.
I would expect that to be a case filler with the limited amount I know about it.
Using 155s more so.
Just being a safety nanny here.
Work on your technique for operating the lever on the powder dropper. Same way every time. Tap it at the top or tap it at the bottom, make the sign of the cross in the middle, what ever you do, do it the same way. Keep your powder level consistent too, top it off every so often and keep it from getting to low.
It’s all subject to the distance and target size you’ll be shooting. As well as the shooter’s skill level.
Some targets/distances are big/close enough it doesn’t matter. And some are small/far enough away that it does matter.
Also, the shooter has to be capable of shooting the difference.
Some targets/distances are big/close enough it doesn’t matter. And some are small/far enough away that it does matter.
Also, the shooter has to be capable of shooting the difference.
I'm fairly OCD about my loads. With larger powders like RL26, H1000, Retumbo, etc., I go -0/+.02. For smaller powders like Varget, H4895, I want to be dead on. Hell, in my 6 BRA, my accuracy node is 30.6 - 30.76 (limited at the top end by pressure), and I I vary within that node based on expected temperature. A +/- .1 would take me out of best accuracy, and possibly into sticky bolt territory.
The issue is there aren't any really wide nodes at all with this rifle. Though I can load it with just about anything and shoot sub-1/2 MOA pretty much across the board. My fire forming rounds with 105 VLDs jammed with a light load get me that. This is where I load to shoot 1/4 - 1/3 .
