Fail to Fire, need help!!!

[huntinggamo]

ok, i searched with no luck.
I recently bought a gap built rifle (they will fix it but im trying to eliminate any and all other problems first) from a co-worker, the rifle has 376 rounds through it. im forming .260 cases from win .243,

2-5 out of 50 rounds go click, no boom....wtf...lol

at first i thought it was my primers so i switched to new primers, same problem. i am cutting my primer pockets so i checked that they were not being cut to deep, they are fine, primers are properly seated.

somebody mentioned that it could be because the plunger is pushing the case to far from the firing pin because they are .243 cases being formed but i have also had it happen on already fire formed cases and nosler .260 cases.

it is a defiance machine action, anybody have any more suggestions or ideas as to what it could be?

if you need more info let me know, i can take measurements of fired and dud cases, or any others you might need to form an opinion.....


EDIT: i dis-assembled the bolt, cleaned it and re lubed it, no issues in there.....not a gummed up firing pin....

 

[BOLTRIPPER]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

sometimes....aftermarket fireing pin/spring lash-up exibit the say frustrating results......when tis happens ...the trigger MUST be adjusted....or more correctly the sear let off to compensate for the different firing pin spring.....


what do you have in your stick ?

 

[oldgrayone]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

You did not mention what the primers looked like on the rounds that did not fire. Do they have strike marks and if so how do they compare to rounds that did fire?

 

[bri8sol]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

Did you full length or neck size the .260 brass?

 

[huntinggamo]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">sometimes....aftermarket fireing pin/spring lash-up exibit the say frustrating results......when tis happens ...the trigger MUST be adjusted....or more correctly the sear let off to compensate for the different firing pin spring.....


what do you have in your stick ?</div></div>

im running a huber concepts

 

[huntinggamo]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oldgrayone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You did not mention what the primers looked like on the rounds that did not fire. Do they have strike marks and if so how do they compare to rounds that did fire? </div></div>

they do have strike marks, not the strongest i have ever seen, but they do look like they should have lit off, and i have had one or two that did light on the second strike...

the rounds that fired show normal strikes combined with whatever pressure signs accompany that particular load...

 

[ORD]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

Did it work before you bought it from your co-worker? If so, have you done anything to the rifle since you purchased it in terms of work, upgrades, etc. (aside from your reloading/case forming for the rifle)? +1 on knowing differences between your FTF and Fired cases in terms of the primers...Are you getting any sort of dimple or indent on the primers on the rounds that are failing to fire? If so, how do they compare to the rounds that do fire (shallower, deeper, etc.)? Have you tried factory produced .260Rem ammo?

 

[huntinggamo]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NBK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Did you full length or neck size the .260 brass? </div></div>

im running them through a fl the first time, but since they are .243 cases im not making contact with anything but the neck. on fire formed im using a fl but only bumping the shoulders back...

 

[huntinggamo]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ORD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Did it work before you bought it from your co-worker? If so, have you done anything to the rifle since you purchased it in terms of work, upgrades, etc. (aside from your reloading/case forming for the rifle)? +1 on knowing differences between your FTF and Fired cases in terms of the primers...Are you getting any sort of dimple or indent on the primers on the rounds that are failing to fire? If so, how do they compare to the rounds that do fire (shallower, deeper, etc.)? Have you tried factory produced .260Rem ammo?</div></div>

i dont know if it worked properly, they only fired about 50 rounds through it and he did not mention any issues...

it had a rifle basix trigger that failed and i did not like so i replaced it with the huber, same issues before and after as far as ftf issues.

when i first got the rifle i fired 20 rounds of factory ammo and it all lit off but that is not enough rounds to prove or dis-prove anything, i did however load nosler .260 cases that did have ftf so if you are thinking case dimensions im not thinking that that is it....

 

[bri8sol]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

I would try to start with some factory new .260 brass, fl as far down the body of the brass as you can, and see if that works. I had the exact same issue as you are describing, and fl sizing the brass further down the body worked. Good luck!

 

[longshooter]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

Just for shits and giggles, why don't you check your headspace? And shoulder bump.

 

[LRI]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

If it were me:

The first thing I'd look at is firing pin protrusion. It should be somewhere between .05 and .055.

Next, check the amount of striker travel. It should be somewhere between .200" and .250" generally.

3rd. Listen to the gun while dry firing. Is there a good "snap" when you pull the trigger. If it's lethargic pull the fire control out of the bolt and scrub everything with a solvent that cuts any grease. Lube with a light oil, put a dab of lithium or other high shear grease on the cocking cam surface and reassemble.

4th. Once you've done this you've essentially eliminated the fire control. It could be a bad striker spring but I doubt it.
The springs used by Defiance are likely the same type/material that are used on Nesika Bay actions. It's a high silicon spring wire that lasts a long time.

Once you've done this, time to start looking at headspace. Once this is done you look at the cartridge case length. Ensure your not somehow bumping shoulders back (although I don't know how you'd do this as your shell holder would be trying to come through the bottom of the die to squish a case so far that it won't load on the shoulder when in battery)

After all this is done the last thing I'd check is whether or not the sear of the trigger is somehow hanging up the cocking piece. This should have been detected though when you listen to the gun while dry firing.

Good luck.

C

 

[boltactions]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

Call me or George.

Glen Harrison
Defiance Machine
(406)756-2727

 

[huntinggamo]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bolt Actions</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Call me or George.

Glen Harrison
Defiance Machine
(406)756-2727</div></div>

George already said he would take it back and look at it, i was just trying to eliminate all other possible issues before i have to resort to that.....

 

[A10XRIFLE]

Re: Fail to Fire, need help!!!

Matt, Could just be the FP Spring as we have recieved a few weaker ones from a supplier (not Defiance) You could just send the bolt for that fix and we would send it back the same day. Aftermarket triggers in genral cause problems somtimes as they put the sear engaugement in a different place than the original design causing a short fall on the striker. A new heavier spring would be needed to overcome this. This is most likley the problem as it was not originally set up for a Rifle Basix or Huber Trigger.