What would be the best way to fill holes left by a cheek piece such as the Karsten after removal from fiberglass stocks such as Mcmillans or Bell and Carlson type stocks ??
Danny
Danny
Gunsmithing Filling Holes After Cheek Piece Removal ??
- Thread starter dpmcclellan
- Start date
Mix some marine tex and fill the hole using a tooth pick to get the epoxy well into the hole. Make sure you leave it a little proud. Wait til its almost cured and trim flush with a razor knife. Repeat for the other side. Good luck
Thanks "stockdoc".....I was thinking along those lines but did'nt know exactly what to use as a filler, I was thinking of using something like a big marinating syringe to get the filler down deep in the stock as the holes go all the way through. I am thinking of having this stock Cerakoted in a GAP camo pattern so that should work real well for making these holes disappear.
Danny
Danny
Is it a molded color stock? If so, you can get McMillan to send you a repair kit. It pretty much comes with the epoxy they use to form the gel-coat (or one very similar) along with the proper colored dyes. I did a repair with one of those kits a year and a half ago and probably couldn't find the area I repaired anymore.
Temp9, Its got several coats of Krylon on it. I'm planning on using it in a future build and planning on having the whole rifle Cerakoted, so it will be fine just to fill it, trim it up and a little sanding. Thanks for the info though.
Danny
Danny
Devcon will work as well, it is thick and wont run. sand it flat then a quick shot of krylon and your back in business. Cerakote is fine, but Krylon is real cheap. It wears off faster, but IMO it looks good weathered (also hides imperfections)
Marine Tex or straight fiberglass resin works fine. Just make sure you degrease the area and roughen it up to allow better adherence.
I have used this for Canoe repairs, because I think it has some structural advantages. I grind the area surrounding the hole (on the canoe) until the glass fibers are exposed, and then apply a repair patch to form a supporting surface and use regular resin to affix/support the cloth. I also grind any protruding material down below the surface level once it's rigid.
The Bondo is applied to overfill the repair slightly higher than the surrounding surface.
Once it achieves the hardness of cheese, I cut it back down to surface level using a Ped-Egg, which is just a miniature variation of a Surform file.
For repairs larger than the holes you mention, the Surform may be better than the Ped-Egg. It should be reasonably longer than the repair area, so it bridges the repair and does not cut below the desired surface and cause any dips.
If your rifle has any tendency toward being barrel-heavy, this could be a good opportunity to add some lead shot to improve balance.
When I use a single shot follower, I also line the blind mag well with a plastic bag and fill it with lead shot to reduce recoil somewhat. No need to add resin for this step, so the shot can be removable.
Read through the reviews and make your own decisions. Stirring the resin well to get everything up off the bottom should resolve any tendency toward runniness. Don't skimp on the mixing time.
Greg
The Bondo is applied to overfill the repair slightly higher than the surrounding surface.
Once it achieves the hardness of cheese, I cut it back down to surface level using a Ped-Egg, which is just a miniature variation of a Surform file.
For repairs larger than the holes you mention, the Surform may be better than the Ped-Egg. It should be reasonably longer than the repair area, so it bridges the repair and does not cut below the desired surface and cause any dips.
If your rifle has any tendency toward being barrel-heavy, this could be a good opportunity to add some lead shot to improve balance.
When I use a single shot follower, I also line the blind mag well with a plastic bag and fill it with lead shot to reduce recoil somewhat. No need to add resin for this step, so the shot can be removable.
Read through the reviews and make your own decisions. Stirring the resin well to get everything up off the bottom should resolve any tendency toward runniness. Don't skimp on the mixing time.
Greg
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Agreed, just like fixing a boat. Its basically fiberglass, so the repairs are the same.
