Gunsmithing Firing pin assembly???
- Thread starter sawman556
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Re: Firing pin assembly???
Theirs is aluminum I thought SS would be a little tougher. Do you know if the just fit/drop in? How hard is it to replace just the shroud?
Theirs is aluminum I thought SS would be a little tougher. Do you know if the just fit/drop in? How hard is it to replace just the shroud?
Re: Firing pin assembly???
I'd get a can of flat black paint and when it looked bad tape it up and spray it. If you're beating your current shround up you'll beat up the next also. Every scar is just another story to tell anyway.
A Remington assembly will not fit a Stiller action.
I'd get a can of flat black paint and when it looked bad tape it up and spray it. If you're beating your current shround up you'll beat up the next also. Every scar is just another story to tell anyway.
A Remington assembly will not fit a Stiller action.
Re: Firing pin assembly???
Replacing a shroud is simple, yet very easy to screw up.
First, I'd suggest buying a couple tools.
A striker spring compressor is an almost must have for this to be a painless evolution. They are available from Brownells and I think Sinclair Int sells them too.
It's an alloy tube with a bolt/handle on one end that allows you screw the striker into a compressed state as you turn the knob.
Next is a good set of punches. Out of everything I've tried the Starrett brand is by far the best. Don't skimp on these as it makes life so much easier when working around guns. Worth every penny. Enco/MSC/McMaster are all great places to get them.
A good ball peen hammer.
Compress the fire control. It'll expose the cocking piece and the retaining pin. Drive out the pin, remove the cocking piece, and remove the fire control from the compressor. It'll just fall apart. I like to wrap a rag around the thing as I do it so that parts don't go flying when you pull the shroud.
Install the new shround by reversing the process. Be sure to time the hole for the retaining pin (cocking piece) correctly. Some only go in one way. Stillers are unidirectional if I'm not mistaken.
Just be sure the pin is completely flush and your set. The little notch in the cocking piece is for a penny to slide into. It'll keep the unit compressed as you reinstall it into the bolt.
The better tool is a Kleinhorst tool for M700's that Brownells/Sinclair/Bruno's sells. They are a very valuable tool to have with you at all times when shooting. Makes tear down a snap.
Good luck and hope this helps.
PS. You could just send the shroud to a shop and have the dings buffed out and then recoated in C coat too. Just an idea.
C.
Replacing a shroud is simple, yet very easy to screw up.
First, I'd suggest buying a couple tools.
A striker spring compressor is an almost must have for this to be a painless evolution. They are available from Brownells and I think Sinclair Int sells them too.
It's an alloy tube with a bolt/handle on one end that allows you screw the striker into a compressed state as you turn the knob.
Next is a good set of punches. Out of everything I've tried the Starrett brand is by far the best. Don't skimp on these as it makes life so much easier when working around guns. Worth every penny. Enco/MSC/McMaster are all great places to get them.
A good ball peen hammer.
Compress the fire control. It'll expose the cocking piece and the retaining pin. Drive out the pin, remove the cocking piece, and remove the fire control from the compressor. It'll just fall apart. I like to wrap a rag around the thing as I do it so that parts don't go flying when you pull the shroud.
Install the new shround by reversing the process. Be sure to time the hole for the retaining pin (cocking piece) correctly. Some only go in one way. Stillers are unidirectional if I'm not mistaken.
Just be sure the pin is completely flush and your set. The little notch in the cocking piece is for a penny to slide into. It'll keep the unit compressed as you reinstall it into the bolt.
The better tool is a Kleinhorst tool for M700's that Brownells/Sinclair/Bruno's sells. They are a very valuable tool to have with you at all times when shooting. Makes tear down a snap.
Good luck and hope this helps.
PS. You could just send the shroud to a shop and have the dings buffed out and then recoated in C coat too. Just an idea.
C.
Re: Firing pin assembly???
Thanks guys. I'll just buy the tool and clean this shroud up. I'm finishing up a stock I'm working on then I'm going to refinish everything with Cerakote. I have to finish up my oven as well.
Thanks guys. I'll just buy the tool and clean this shroud up. I'm finishing up a stock I'm working on then I'm going to refinish everything with Cerakote. I have to finish up my oven as well.
Re: Firing pin assembly???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: xs hedspace</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does the Ceracote baking temp screw up the spring heat treatment?? </div></div>
It should not in theory, but I think some guys over-bake the parts as I have seen a few guns come back from ceracoat that immediatly developed striker spring related problems.
I can only guess that the problems were from the baking, but in all cases, replacing the springs fixed the problems.
The easy solution is to just break down the bolt and don't bake the spring!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: xs hedspace</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does the Ceracote baking temp screw up the spring heat treatment?? </div></div>
It should not in theory, but I think some guys over-bake the parts as I have seen a few guns come back from ceracoat that immediatly developed striker spring related problems.
I can only guess that the problems were from the baking, but in all cases, replacing the springs fixed the problems.
The easy solution is to just break down the bolt and don't bake the spring!
Re: Firing pin assembly???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The easy solution is to just break down the bolt and don't bake the spring!</div></div>
Obviously you swim in the deeper end of the gene pool.
Well said.
Break your guns down to base components when coating. It's ok to leave a receiver/lug/barrel assembled, but things like bases, rings, etc should always be torn down.
Nothing screams "half ass" more than pulling a base off that's extended over the barrel only to see a bare spot in the steel or a bare spot under the base where it attaches to the receiver.
Do it right, do it once.
Just my opinion.
C.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The easy solution is to just break down the bolt and don't bake the spring!</div></div>
Obviously you swim in the deeper end of the gene pool.
Well said.
Break your guns down to base components when coating. It's ok to leave a receiver/lug/barrel assembled, but things like bases, rings, etc should always be torn down.
Nothing screams "half ass" more than pulling a base off that's extended over the barrel only to see a bare spot in the steel or a bare spot under the base where it attaches to the receiver.
Do it right, do it once.
Just my opinion.
C.
Re: Firing pin assembly???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do it right, do it once.</div></div>
That's what I always try to do.
I had a rifle in for a rebarrel a while back.
It was from a major builder that will remain unnamed.
The customer did not like the old paint job and wanted me to just glass bead it.
In pulling apart the gun, I find that the gun had been blasted before the last paint job with the base left installed as there was no paint under the base.
I can only figure this was done to save time.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do it right, do it once.</div></div>
That's what I always try to do.
I had a rifle in for a rebarrel a while back.
It was from a major builder that will remain unnamed.
The customer did not like the old paint job and wanted me to just glass bead it.
In pulling apart the gun, I find that the gun had been blasted before the last paint job with the base left installed as there was no paint under the base.
I can only figure this was done to save time.
Re: Firing pin assembly???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: xs hedspace</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does the Ceracote baking temp screw up the spring heat treatment?? </div></div>
I do not Cerakote or bake springs. I'm not even doing the firing pin. Just the shroud and the rest of my bolt except the lug. And might even take the bolt out of the action to paint it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: xs hedspace</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does the Ceracote baking temp screw up the spring heat treatment?? </div></div>
I do not Cerakote or bake springs. I'm not even doing the firing pin. Just the shroud and the rest of my bolt except the lug. And might even take the bolt out of the action to paint it.
Re: Firing pin assembly???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Tooley</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Pretty simple fix. Get hold of Stiller and get a new bolt shroud. </div></div>
What he said.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Tooley</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Pretty simple fix. Get hold of Stiller and get a new bolt shroud. </div></div>
What he said.
Re: Firing pin assembly???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 2156SMK</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do it right, do it once.</div></div>
That's what I always try to do.
I had a rifle in for a rebarrel a while back.
It was from a major builder that will remain unnamed.
The customer did not like the old paint job and wanted me to just glass bead it.
In pulling apart the gun, I find that the gun had been blasted before the last paint job with the base left installed as there was no paint under the base.
I can only figure this was done to save time. </div></div>
I'm cool with Johnny Garage taking the easy way, but working for money should mean doing it the right way.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 2156SMK</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do it right, do it once.</div></div>
That's what I always try to do.
I had a rifle in for a rebarrel a while back.
It was from a major builder that will remain unnamed.
The customer did not like the old paint job and wanted me to just glass bead it.
In pulling apart the gun, I find that the gun had been blasted before the last paint job with the base left installed as there was no paint under the base.
I can only figure this was done to save time. </div></div>
I'm cool with Johnny Garage taking the easy way, but working for money should mean doing it the right way.
Re: Firing pin assembly???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: my human host</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm cool with Johnny Garage taking the easy way, but working for money should mean doing it the right way.</div></div>
I'm pretty sure that the shops that do it the easy way would ask why it matter HOW it was done as long as it came out looking good.
The question the consumer needs to ask themselves is that if they will skimp on the finishing work steps, WHAT ELSE are they skimping on that you can't see?
It's not like most customers are qualified to check the machine work.
They pretty much have to believe that they are getting what they expected and paid for and depend on the ability of the gun to shoot tight groups as proof of that.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: my human host</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm cool with Johnny Garage taking the easy way, but working for money should mean doing it the right way.</div></div>
I'm pretty sure that the shops that do it the easy way would ask why it matter HOW it was done as long as it came out looking good.
The question the consumer needs to ask themselves is that if they will skimp on the finishing work steps, WHAT ELSE are they skimping on that you can't see?
It's not like most customers are qualified to check the machine work.
They pretty much have to believe that they are getting what they expected and paid for and depend on the ability of the gun to shoot tight groups as proof of that.
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