I can't find a complete upper that I like so I was hoping you guys could help me get a parts list together. Wanted to use a dpms sass barrel and a complete cmmg or pof lower. Not sure if a mid length gas system would be right or not. Want to shoot sub moa out to at least 600. Thanks in advance for any help.
first 308ar build
- Thread starter razor88
- Start date
Re: first 308ar build
No real budget set. Wanting to spend the least amount but still get quality reliable parts.
No real budget set. Wanting to spend the least amount but still get quality reliable parts.
Re: first 308ar build
Well, "sub moa @ 600" will take not only good parts but a good shooter and ammo as well. That being said I think you could build more or less what you want for about 1500 bucks.
Well, "sub moa @ 600" will take not only good parts but a good shooter and ammo as well. That being said I think you could build more or less what you want for about 1500 bucks.
Re: first 308ar build
I appreciate the offer but was wanting to build myself. Any help with a parts list?
I appreciate the offer but was wanting to build myself. Any help with a parts list?
Re: first 308ar build
For that kind of accuracy, you can go stock on most of parts but go pure quality on the barrel and trigger. That will be the source of your accuracy for the rifle and the rest is up to you. Cut rifled headspaced barrel, free float it, Geissele or similar trigger.
For that kind of accuracy, you can go stock on most of parts but go pure quality on the barrel and trigger. That will be the source of your accuracy for the rifle and the rest is up to you. Cut rifled headspaced barrel, free float it, Geissele or similar trigger.
Re: first 308ar build
DPMS upper, A3? (low height) = 165 @ JSESurplus
Tactical Machining Lower = 250$ (got mine used for 170)
DPMS LPK = 60 @ JSESurplus
DPMS 308 BCG = Rainier or JSE, 200-220
Trigger = RRA 2 stage, Geisselle SSA? nonadjustable 120-180$
Handguards = Troy Extreme, DPMS SASS, DPMS 4 rail low 120-220$
Barrel = Rainier Select 16-18, Fulton 16/18 chrome lined = 259-309 (Rainier or Brownells)
Gas block = pick one (you'll need a gas tube and gas tube roll pin as well)
AR10 A2 stock set = 90$ at 762sass
If you want a carbine stock then milspec buffer tube, DPMS 308 buffer + spring, egg plate, lock ring, and magpul ACS stock JSESurplus = 180$ or so
Flash Hider/Muzzle brake = your choice I use YHM 28? it was 30bucks or so at JSESurplus
You will also need an action block and multi wrench thing, JSESurplus has them for 40 for block and 25 for wrench. Then get a vise at harbor freight if you don't have one. That's assuming you have screwdrivers, allen wrenches, torque wrench in you garage already.
This is in a nutshell what I just built for myself using fulton 16" stainless barrel. It is "sub moa" with the right ammo and when I do everything correctly. The only thing I'd change about mine is the barrel (It's too heavy for a 16") rainier select 16" half pound or more lighter.
If you want "better" parts the stuff I would substitute would be mega upper lower set (600 vs about 400 for TM and DPMS upper lower) and a custom barrel (figure 450-500) and magpul PRS stock if you need the adjustment (extra 220 bucks).
edit: if you're really anal about accuracy go with a custom barrel just keep in mind that the limiting factor is almost always the shooter not the rifle.
DPMS upper, A3? (low height) = 165 @ JSESurplus
Tactical Machining Lower = 250$ (got mine used for 170)
DPMS LPK = 60 @ JSESurplus
DPMS 308 BCG = Rainier or JSE, 200-220
Trigger = RRA 2 stage, Geisselle SSA? nonadjustable 120-180$
Handguards = Troy Extreme, DPMS SASS, DPMS 4 rail low 120-220$
Barrel = Rainier Select 16-18, Fulton 16/18 chrome lined = 259-309 (Rainier or Brownells)
Gas block = pick one (you'll need a gas tube and gas tube roll pin as well)
AR10 A2 stock set = 90$ at 762sass
If you want a carbine stock then milspec buffer tube, DPMS 308 buffer + spring, egg plate, lock ring, and magpul ACS stock JSESurplus = 180$ or so
Flash Hider/Muzzle brake = your choice I use YHM 28? it was 30bucks or so at JSESurplus
You will also need an action block and multi wrench thing, JSESurplus has them for 40 for block and 25 for wrench. Then get a vise at harbor freight if you don't have one. That's assuming you have screwdrivers, allen wrenches, torque wrench in you garage already.
This is in a nutshell what I just built for myself using fulton 16" stainless barrel. It is "sub moa" with the right ammo and when I do everything correctly. The only thing I'd change about mine is the barrel (It's too heavy for a 16") rainier select 16" half pound or more lighter.
If you want "better" parts the stuff I would substitute would be mega upper lower set (600 vs about 400 for TM and DPMS upper lower) and a custom barrel (figure 450-500) and magpul PRS stock if you need the adjustment (extra 220 bucks).
edit: if you're really anal about accuracy go with a custom barrel just keep in mind that the limiting factor is almost always the shooter not the rifle.
Re: first 308ar build
Oh Yeah I'm a mechanic so I have plenty of tools jut not the little specialty stuff. Thanks for the help. I started out as a bolt gun guy but I've got black rifle fever ever since I bought my m4. And one more thing what do you think about cmmg's lower?
Oh Yeah I'm a mechanic so I have plenty of tools jut not the little specialty stuff. Thanks for the help. I started out as a bolt gun guy but I've got black rifle fever ever since I bought my m4. And one more thing what do you think about cmmg's lower?
Re: first 308ar build
Tactical Machining is cheaper and if you're going to spend 300+ on a stripped lower might as well spend 600 and get the mega upper lower set (the mega comes with takedown pins and I think charging handle and they have an excellent upper lower lockup no rattling at all).
If you can swing it the mega monolithic upper lower set for 1k is an incredible piece of hardware. If I were to build again I would budget a little extra and go with it as it's worth it. Lightweight, strong, continuous top rail.
edit: don't forget to factor in money for optics, accessories like bipod/flip up sights/mounts/rail covers, FFL fees, gas, ammunition etc.
Tactical Machining is cheaper and if you're going to spend 300+ on a stripped lower might as well spend 600 and get the mega upper lower set (the mega comes with takedown pins and I think charging handle and they have an excellent upper lower lockup no rattling at all).
If you can swing it the mega monolithic upper lower set for 1k is an incredible piece of hardware. If I were to build again I would budget a little extra and go with it as it's worth it. Lightweight, strong, continuous top rail.
edit: don't forget to factor in money for optics, accessories like bipod/flip up sights/mounts/rail covers, FFL fees, gas, ammunition etc.
Re: first 308ar build
Have you checked out PWS or the 300 blk round. There is a lot of companies out there that make complete uppers in 308. The other option depending on your needs would be find a used or new Remington R25. Was looking into doing a 308 build myself until I found XCR M or the SCAR H. They are a lil more money but you get what you pay for. Most uppers in 308 that I have found are only a couple hundred less then buying a complete rifle. Once you add up the price of the upper and lower you might as well go out and buy the complete rifle.
Have you checked out PWS or the 300 blk round. There is a lot of companies out there that make complete uppers in 308. The other option depending on your needs would be find a used or new Remington R25. Was looking into doing a 308 build myself until I found XCR M or the SCAR H. They are a lil more money but you get what you pay for. Most uppers in 308 that I have found are only a couple hundred less then buying a complete rifle. Once you add up the price of the upper and lower you might as well go out and buy the complete rifle.
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