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First firing M40A1

pmclaine

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Minuteman
  • Nov 6, 2011
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    I scoped my M40A1 last night. Im actively seeking a MST100 so I cheaped out and went with an El Paso, Weaver K10 60C. Its reportedly a dependable scope but not correct for any A1 and limited with capped turrets. At least it wont be draining my bank account as I seek a USO/Unertl while trying to put money back into the kids account I had to raid to buy the rifle. I figure the fixed 10X will be familiar when I do get the permanent scope attached.

    Im taking a vacation day to shoot this rifle for my first time Friday. Its a PWS build and the gun book indicates about 50 rounds fired at Quantico. The only other new guns I have bought, LMT ARs, I never bought into the break in process and just went out and fired them. Any Marines that were issued these rifles direct from Quantico willing to tell their procedure when they got a virgin rifle ready for the field?

    The seller made a good decision in seperating the stock and action to prevent damage in shipping. I note my gun book shows 60 inch pounds for tourqing the action screws. I was told by one user that on his rifle in order to get best accuracy he started testing the action at 50 inch pounds than went up in increments to 60 inch pounds seeking best performance. His rifle settled at 55 inch pounds. The 2112 build book (IIRC) indicates for setup to start at 55 inch pounds than adjust tourque up for grouping. Sequence is to bring front action screw to tourque than the rear, stop at best group. My book indicates 60 inch pounds should I just use that number as PWS has already done the work/testing to figure best build for this rifle?

    Looking this rifle over last night Im amazed at how square the barrel is in the stock channel. Im used to manufactured shit fitting a loose tolerance and the end product will show sloppy fit and finish. Good job Marines in holding a higher standard.
     
    Awesome to hear another A1 is in the wild! For the torque, I would simply go with the PWS number and if that gives you issues, then go through the torque ladder testing. For prep to shoot, the biggest thing you need to do is build up the cheek rest. Cut pieces of foam (sleeping mat or a thick mouse pad) and riggers tape them on square on the comb to the necessary height for you to rest your head without scope shadow. I would square it up with the furthest rearward travel of the bolt and adjust eye relief from there if necessary. You should be able to throw the bolt without ever leaving the scope. Keep the pad strips thin, about 1/2" wide, otherwise it will force your head to the side and throw off your position. Top it off with a piece of moleskin for sweaty days and you're ready to rock the range.

    Further field prep would always include taping the bottom metal closed, tape over the crown, slit tape on the objective and a piece of 550 cord in the barrel channel to remove crap from there prior to shooting. Oh, and Krylon of course!

    Congrats on the new rifle!
     
    Awesome to hear another A1 is in the wild! For the torque, I would simply go with the PWS number and if that gives you issues, then go through the torque ladder testing. For prep to shoot, the biggest thing you need to do is build up the cheek rest. Cut pieces of foam (sleeping mat or a thick mouse pad) and riggers tape them on square on the comb to the necessary height for you to rest your head without scope shadow. I would square it up with the furthest rearward travel of the bolt and adjust eye relief from there if necessary. You should be able to throw the bolt without ever leaving the scope. Keep the pad strips thin, about 1/2" wide, otherwise it will force your head to the side and throw off your position. Top it off with a piece of moleskin for sweaty days and you're ready to rock the range.

    Further field prep would always include taping the bottom metal closed, tape over the crown, slit tape on the objective and a piece of 550 cord in the barrel channel to remove crap from there prior to shooting. Oh, and Krylon of course!

    Congrats on the new rifle!

    Mounting the scope last night I was surprised how far back my setup on the Weaver brought the ocular compared to a Unertl. Seeing as it seems to look similar to the mount of Second Recons Weaver T10's though I think its the nature of the beast. I think I may still have to adjust the fore/aft location of the scope and Ill confirm what I noticed last night that the comb will have to be built up.

    Once I have the scope positioned Ill be looking to buy some strips of ensolite and GI tape to keep it legit. Looking forward to getting ugly and having people ask "Bubba whats up with all the duct tape over your special rifle?" Im going to have to work on applying the tape in a thoroughly messed up manner. My nature will be to secure the comb build up with perfectly smooth, straight edge tape but every picture of M40A1's in the field that I have seen it seems the tape is bubbled, folded, generally a sloppy mess. With no insult meant to the Marines maybe Ill let my 5 year old do the tape job for a more realistic effect.

    Thanks for the comment on the action screws. Ill set the Snap On to 60 inch pounds and put my trust in PWS.

    Tape over the crown - I assume thats a field expecient muzzle/bore protector from debris entry?

    550 cord in the barrel channel - Are you field stripping a cord and using one cord from the internal to "floss" out debris?

    Surprised to see that the 2112 M40A1 build book included instructions for applying Krylon, which parts of the rifle to tape, etc. Absolutely the right thing to do but having never sprayed a gun before and not having the luxury of getting the gun on the tax payers dime Ill have to build up my balls to take on that project. Would make sense to wait on a scope so it will get sprayed at the same time. I was in 1986-1990. I saw STA with their rifles and there were quite a few at the Embassy in Liberia. I dont recall at that time end user camouflage paint was really prevalent. I recall most stocks being as supplied by McMillan but showing heavy field use.

    Thank you Redmanss for your response/service.
     
    Haha, I get it on the tape looking jacked up as all hell, but that was the field that did that number, not us! On the crown, yeah it was to keep the crap out of the bore. Blasts right off on the first shot without deviation. Depending on how tight your barrel channel is, we would usually use the outside portion of the 550 cord with the guts stripped out. Really loose ones got the whole piece. We would tape it down on the sides because it is a bitch to get it out if it falls into the barrel channel completely...

    I never saw a gun book with the painting instructions in it while I was in, but it was in the 1-3B if my memory serves me right. Mine is a second hand GAP/Reid build, and I didn't get the book with it so maybe I just haven't seen the latest and greatest. The painting really is quite simple, do a test run on a cheap rimfire or old stock you have laying around to get down the technique, then the real secret is to let it cure for a few days if not a week. Mine will be getting the Krylon treatment once I get longer at home than a couple days. I would wait on the MST-100 as well though for the same reasons you stated.

    We didn't bother painting our rifles on float until we hit an area where it was needed, so most of ours in Liberia 1996 were slick as well. Kind of pointless to camouflage the rifle when you're in flack and helmet, positioned out the 3rd story window of the Ambassador's house with a MK19 team below you and a M60 team above you. Damn did it rain there...
     
    Haha, I get it on the tape looking jacked up as all hell, but that was the field that did that number, not us! On the crown, yeah it was to keep the crap out of the bore. Blasts right off on the first shot without deviation. Depending on how tight your barrel channel is, we would usually use the outside portion of the 550 cord with the guts stripped out. Really loose ones got the whole piece. We would tape it down on the sides because it is a bitch to get it out if it falls into the barrel channel completely...

    I never saw a gun book with the painting instructions in it while I was in, but it was in the 1-3B if my memory serves me right. Mine is a second hand GAP/Reid build, and I didn't get the book with it so maybe I just haven't seen the latest and greatest. The painting really is quite simple, do a test run on a cheap rimfire or old stock you have laying around to get down the technique, then the real secret is to let it cure for a few days if not a week. Mine will be getting the Krylon treatment once I get longer at home than a couple days. I would wait on the MST-100 as well though for the same reasons you stated.

    We didn't bother painting our rifles on float until we hit an area where it was needed, so most of ours in Liberia 1996 were slick as well. Kind of pointless to camouflage the rifle when you're in flack and helmet, positioned out the 3rd story window of the Ambassador's house with a MK19 team below you and a M60 team above you. Damn did it rain there...


    The book I reference is the 2112 build procedure book not the individual tube data book that accompanies the rifle. There is a Marine on GunBroker that is selling them, set of four - M40A1, M40A3, DMR, Barrett, and Unertl instructions. Good info in the books regarding nomenclature, build/maintenance info.

    Interesting info on the paracord. My gun will likely never see field debris but thats an awesome detail to know. Did you tie it back on its self to make a loop that stayed in the barrel channel back toward the recoil lug? That way when you needed to deploy the rifle you pull the cord past the front of the stock pushing out dirt/small stones? It seems to me you want that piece of floss ready at the recoil lug before you get in the shit because drawing the floss toward the receiver would only serve to pack crap against the bedding. I havent seen heard of that from anyone else.

    A co worker was a BN Armorer at Second Recon. He tells me there was little work they could do on the rifles at his level so i assume the Marines fielding them were restricted even more so. Quantico serviced the guns as far as he remembers.

    I suppose by 96 Amb Devoss had left that craphole. Liberia really was a nice post for about the first month I was there - good diplomatic parties, the Marine House was a social center, the unshaved Peace Corps girls were plentiful, we even golfed out on the antenna field. When things went to crap the Prince Johnson/Charles Taylor show was good entertainment for us but absolute horror to those poor people outside the walls. That rain you mention was a pain but it had its benefits. When the facilities had to shut the water systems down for the greater portion of the day you could put a 1/2 gallon bucket outside and quickly get enough water to fill the back of the toilet and flush your stinky deuce before the next guy came along wanting to use the head.
     
    No relevance probably other than just busting you balls for the no pic thing:D

    Ill get a pic up after shooting Friday. With the real scope not being readily available giving people the chance to see alternatives may help them on their rifles. If i wanted to spend more right now a 3-9X Redfield would have been the way to go.

    For unscoped pictures of my rifle I think its at the top of the last page on the M40A1 build thread.

    ....and you realize i was also busting your balls about the effectiveness of your camouflage paint sir? No offense meant on my part toward you.
     
    Ill get a pic up after shooting Friday. With the real scope not being readily available giving people the chance to see alternatives may help them on their rifles. If i wanted to spend more right now a 3-9X Redfield would have been the way to go.

    For unscoped pictures of my rifle I think its at the top of the last page on the M40A1 build thread.

    ....and you realize i was also busting your balls about the effectiveness of your camouflage paint sir? No offense meant on my part toward you.


    Yeah I knew that, no offense taken at all and hope you didn't take any.
     
    I just went and checked out the pics on the other thread, I am jealous to say the least!

    There is better technology, ergonomics, stronger builds, revisions with more available accesories but just look at the lines on that thing and it looks to me like a rifle rendered down to its pure essence. I dont know whats better looking of three - M40A1, 1903 in Springfield pre war C stock or USMC pre 64 Model 70 Winchester.
     
    There is better technology, ergonomics, stronger builds, revisions with more available accesories but just look at the lines on that thing and it looks to me like a rifle rendered down to its pure essence. I dont know whats better looking of three - M40A1, 1903 in Springfield pre war C stock or USMC pre 64 Model 70 Winchester.

    I have to agree with you on all the above.

    There is a member on the vintage board that has an M40 that is barrel dated August 1966 I'd give a nut for. That's the month and year I was born.

    I must say though I think the M24 is pretty sexy as well.
     
    There is a member on the vintage board that has an M40 that is barrel dated August 1966 I'd give a nut for.

    Im 46, your coming up on 48, really how much more use are we going to get out of our nuts? If you get the offer to trade but he wants two dont second guess it, make the deal.
     
    Im 46, your coming up on 48, really how much more use are we going to get out of our nuts? If you get the offer to trade but he wants two dont second guess it, make the deal.


    LMAO I'd made that deal when I was in my 30's. I actually PM'd the guy to see if there was any chance it was for sale. I am probably fortunate he never replied.
     
    The book I reference is the 2112 build procedure book not the individual tube data book that accompanies the rifle. There is a Marine on GunBroker that is selling them, set of four - M40A1, M40A3, DMR, Barrett, and Unertl instructions. Good info in the books regarding nomenclature, build/maintenance info.

    Interesting info on the paracord. My gun will likely never see field debris but thats an awesome detail to know. Did you tie it back on its self to make a loop that stayed in the barrel channel back toward the recoil lug? That way when you needed to deploy the rifle you pull the cord past the front of the stock pushing out dirt/small stones? It seems to me you want that piece of floss ready at the recoil lug before you get in the shit because drawing the floss toward the receiver would only serve to pack crap against the bedding. I havent seen heard of that from anyone else.

    A co worker was a BN Armorer at Second Recon. He tells me there was little work they could do on the rifles at his level so i assume the Marines fielding them were restricted even more so. Quantico serviced the guns as far as he remembers.

    I suppose by 96 Amb Devoss had left that craphole. Liberia really was a nice post for about the first month I was there - good diplomatic parties, the Marine House was a social center, the unshaved Peace Corps girls were plentiful, we even golfed out on the antenna field. When things went to crap the Prince Johnson/Charles Taylor show was good entertainment for us but absolute horror to those poor people outside the walls. That rain you mention was a pain but it had its benefits. When the facilities had to shut the water systems down for the greater portion of the day you could put a 1/2 gallon bucket outside and quickly get enough water to fill the back of the toilet and flush your stinky deuce before the next guy came along wanting to use the head.
    Aah... That explains it on the book. I thought you meant the tube/gun book. Anyhow, we would run the 550 cord against the recoil lug and tape it into place. Busting brush at Lejeune or crawling the last bit from ORP to FFP would put all kinds of crap into the channel at times. Nobody used a drag bag outside of school style stalks, but penance would be on you if you short changed it for the sake of "butter-butter-jam" training mentalities. Basically we would saw it out of the channel prior to shot.

    Only 2112s worked on the guns, and there was one at Stone Bay and another one or two assigned to FSSG. We would drop our guns off every six months for maintenance where they would pull the action, clean the guts, repair whatever we broke (often the bolt release latch), measure the headspace and put it all back together again after all the other checks. We would only pull the action on ship when absolutely necessary to repair a down gun, and only then behind closed doors with a borrowed torque wrench from the squids. I can only remember twice we did that across two different deployments, both times for bolt latches that were interfering with the trigger operation.

    Liberia... Yeah, I have nothing good to say about that COM/Amb... I'll save that one for PM.
     
    I'll add the M40A3 to that list and +1 on the M24. All of our military's sniper rifles both past and present are beautiful weapons. Very nice looking A1 sir.
    There is better technology, ergonomics, stronger builds, revisions with more available accesories but just look at the lines on that thing and it looks to me like a rifle rendered down to its pure essence. I dont know whats better looking of three - M40A1, 1903 in Springfield pre war C stock or USMC pre 64 Model 70 Winchester.
     
    That's a really nice looking rifle. I love how the clip contour is right. Not very many builders get that to look right.

    Redmanss, is there a reason why you didn't just tie knots in the ends of the 550 cord to keep it from slipping out? Even with knots I can see how tape would be good to hold it to the rear, so I'm just curious if there was a reason why no knots.