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Fixing strelok dope

SquarePizza

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 9, 2012
496
143
43
NY
I've been using strelok for years and usually it's fairly spot on with multiple rifles.

Today the data for my rifle was 3" high at 300, and off enough to cause a miss at 500. The 500 yard shots were at a treeline so I was not able to spot the impacts. While it could have been me, the 100 zero was spot on and the 300 yard groups were decent, just high.

I know my velocity groom chronoing right before stepping off the 100 yard line, and got my g7 BC from Sierra's website.

My question is, how do I start manipulating my data fields to get more accurate outputs from strelok. Right now it's easy to just keep notes and adjust for my own observations, but I'm limited to 500 yards. I would like to be able to get accurate data past 500 without having to first shoot it to verify it.
 
If it had been correct before and suddenly isn't double check your data, GIGO.
A super common mistake that will get results like that is selecting G1 (or leaving it there) but then entering a G7 value.
 
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You sure your Atmos is correct ? Was your "zeroing weather" correct or was it messed up ?

I had it happen once, and took me a bit to realise what happened. I was zeroing below sea level, and was currently shooting somewhere next to mt Everest. Garbage in / garbage out.

You said you have chrono and BC, so you should be set and shouldn't have to correct or tweak anything.
 
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I would double-check your inputs. To be off by 3" @ 300 yards is a lot and probably not due to anything atmospheric. I don't think Sierra publishes G7 BCs for their bullets, so I would start there.

You can also post your inputs and see what others come up with for a ballistic solution.
 
True, I know that all data points must be verified. What I was trying to get at is that I can shoot out to 500 on my land, but in a few months I want to take this rifle out to sheepdog for a match and since I can't check my drop chart past 500, I dont want to be flinging pills all over the berm with bad data.
 
If you were high at 300, I'd double check everything and find out why? Something is off.

I wouldn't really even worry about BC until going out to 600+, after 0-600 is figured out.

Have you tried truing Strelok at 300, and then seeing where you print at 500 after? Once you've verified everything you've entered about the rifle is accurate/correct, it can only be your ammo or chrono (because it's not gravity)...
 
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Imo you can't true shit at 300. I do trueing at 800+ with the labradar. Usually only a couple tenths off.
 
Imo you can't true shit at 300. I do trueing at 800+ with the labradar. Usually only a couple tenths off.
No shit. It's just a way of troubleshooting...

Normally you wouldn't true anything that close, but the OP has an issue to work out, and if he trues Strelok at 300, and then POA=POI at 500 using the solution Strelok spits out after, then he'll know he might need to take a harder look at his ammo and/or chrono because if everything entered about his rifle is correct, he's getting an incorrect MV from one or both of them.

...It could end up being something as dumb as having accidentally entered the MV incorrectly...
 
My values in strelok look good (as in no misprints noted), but honestly this weekend was a one of those weekends that was better spent in bed.

Everything I touch I broke (not rifle related but still a crap two days). So I'm giving it a couple days and I'm going to reshoot.

My luck I shot a 1.5" group at 300 and did the whole thing wrong and being 3" high on every shot could have just been my fault.

Last, I had the rifle apart the day before so I'm going to recheck all of the screws, but after my reshoot. I want all variables still the same and start chasing them one at a time.

My data:
Howa mini 6.5Grendel
28.5 varget pushing a 123gr smk (G1 .510 over 1700fps).
My MV averaged 2400fps at 10' using a Midway chrono.

Strelok says 1.78 mils at 300.

The more I think about it, I believe that to be accurate and that something is fishy with my form or I have an action screw loose/over tight.
 
That amount of drop is correct for those parameters.
 
It was me, 100% me.

Went out again today, shot a bug hole at 100 and took 1 shot at 300 that was within an inch of my 100 yard group. For a $400 rifle the groups I've been printing lately amaze the hell out of me.

The only problem is that they were not the same poa/poi as Saturday. Looks like I have a wandering zero issue in my fundamentals to ferret out.
 
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You found an issue. Learn, train, advance. This is a good thing to experience.
 
It was me, 100% me.

Went out again today, shot a bug hole at 100 and took 1 shot at 300 that was within an inch of my 100 yard group. For a $400 rifle the groups I've been printing lately amaze the hell out of me.

The only problem is that they were not the same poa/poi as Saturday. Looks like I have a wandering zero issue in my fundamentals to ferret out.
Don't mean to be a dick but... Is everything between your scope and the barrel torqued up right? I had a similar issue and it turned out to be a loose rail.
 
I've been using strelok for years and usually it's fairly spot on with multiple rifles.

Today the data for my rifle was 3" high at 300, and off enough to cause a miss at 500. The 500 yard shots were at a treeline so I was not able to spot the impacts. While it could have been me, the 100 zero was spot on and the 300 yard groups were decent, just high.

I know my velocity groom chronoing right before stepping off the 100 yard line, and got my g7 BC from Sierra's website.

My question is, how do I start manipulating my data fields to get more accurate outputs from strelok. Right now it's easy to just keep notes and adjust for my own observations, but I'm limited to 500 yards. I would like to be able to get accurate data past 500 without having to first shoot it to verify it.
By getting real numbers with a chrono, correcting for temp. Also if you dont have a heavy barrel after 6-10 round if you cant grab the barrel it’s overheated and has to cool. Watched a 6800 300wm AR cold hot the hundred, then quickly to 2.3.400, shot at the 500 at least a dozen times and nothing, went back ro the 100 and shots 8-10” to left of the target. Cooled for 20min and he was accurate again for another few shots and then it starts over so, any gun. With a light wave barrel especially your light weight hunting rifles or absolutely useless for continuous shooting
 
By getting real numbers with a chrono, correcting for temp. Also if you dont have a heavy barrel after 6-10 round if you cant grab the barrel it’s overheated and has to cool. Watched a 6800 300wm AR cold hot the hundred, then quickly to 2.3.400, shot at the 500 at least a dozen times and nothing, went back ro the 100 and shots 8-10” to left of the target. Cooled for 20min and he was accurate again for another few shots and then it starts over so, any gun. With a light wave barrel especially your light weight hunting rifles or absolutely useless for continuous shooting
You’re not limited to 500, is Your scope installed completely level and did you whether it be emrad or moa and Change the corresponding values in strelok to match? And also did you measure the scope plate from the bore? And again factory ammo can be grossly off if it shows the temperature on the box where they got the velocities from see how far off it is from your location I had a box of stuff I was tested at 60° and I was shooting at 95 so August it’ll make a difference, but the best way is to clock the speed real time and then add that value into strelok as the standard velocity for the round The biggest problem with the app is the online instructions you can find aren’t that great and there’s so many variables that can be manipulated that after a month and a half I’m still learning and finding new things that I can do.