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FL Sizing Difficulties

lunchboxtheman

Private
Minuteman
Aug 19, 2012
12
0
36
St. Louis, MO
Long time lurker but first time poster
smile.gif


I have a question regarding FL sizing 308 brass. I'm using an RCBS small-base, FL sizing X-die for my SA M1A. I'm not using the "X feature" at this point. I lube my cases with Imperial sizing die wax.

I'm having a hard time setting the shoulder back on once-fired LC brass. I have a Wilson case length gauge and even after running the case up until the shell holder hits the bottom of the FL sizing die (which uses all of my body weight) the brass just <span style="font-style: italic">barely</span> reads as a safe length on the gauge.

Am I missing something here? Thanks for any input you can provide me.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

Firstly, welcome!

Secondly, I'm not familiar with the exact die your using, but I'm sure someone else will jump in to help!
A general observation for FL sizing tho, you shouldn't need to put your full weight on the handle, that's going to break or bend something.
If the shell holder is bottoming out on your die its not going to size anymore by sitting and bouncing on the press handle
smile.gif


Worst case scenario you die might be a little on the long side, I had a body die with the same problem. you can lightly shave off a couple of thou off the bottom of the die with some fine grit wet and dry paper. That should allow you to get that extra bit of sizing to bump the shoulders back.

Maybe someone else has a better suggestion that knows your die better than me, either way it will be fixable!

Good luck
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Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

I would make sure you don't have the decapping pin set too deep in the die (sticking out too far out of the die). If you do, you could be bottoming out or hitting the bottom of the case web with the neck expanding button, this will hinder your die to fully F/L size.

As said in the instructions, your decapping pin should be only 1/16" to 1/8" (.125") sticking out from the bottom of the die. You can check this by taking two pennies, which are .110"-.120" thick together and placing them on the bottom of your F/L die and adjust the decapping pin by feel.

You should NOT have to use your full weight to resize when using Imperial wax.
Something is definitely wrong. I use a X die on my .260 Remington hunting loads. The die has worked as advertised, it's a regular F/L die and has no problem bumping the case shoulder back to minimum specs.

The other thing I can think of is you're using LC cases, if those cases were fired in a machine gun (m-60 or M-240) the rims could be bent and give you false readings in your drop in case gauge and/or the were over expanded from the M/G oversize chamber and you will have issues F/L sizing down to minimun specs.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: FLIGHT762</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I would make sure you don't have the decapping pin set too deep in the die (sticking out too far out of the die). If you do, you could be bottoming out or hitting the bottom of the case web with the neck expanding button, this will hinder your die to fully F/L size.
</div></div>

Excellent thought. I will back it all the way out and bring it in just enough to decap.

I figured putting all my weight on the handle was a red flag. This is the first rifle cartridge I've reloaded so I wasn't sure what was normal.

Thanks for the input!
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

Tried backing the decapping pin all the way out and screwing it in just enough to decap to no avail. I can't hardly get the case to go in half way with almost all of my body weight.

I did notice something unusual on the neck of the case. Check out the image below. You will see a distinct line about halfway up the neck like it's being squeezed really hard. This case went about halfway into the die before I pulled it out. I'm thinking that whatever is causing this neck squeezing is the problem.

Does anyone know what could be causing this?

Edited to add measurements:
Neck inner diameter before sizing: .310"
Neck inner diameter after sizing: .306"

2pzxops.jpg
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

Is it possible that the X die is putting pressure on the mouth of the case (that is how it limits growth) and slightly buckling the neck? On the Forster dies, the expander ball is high on the threaded decapping stem. I don't know what the X die guts look like but if the ball is too high it could be in the neck as you try to size. On the cases you sized as much as you could, have you tried them in the rifle? They may be sized enough. Your gauge may be incompatible with your rifle dimensions.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is it possible that the X die is putting pressure on the mouth of the case (that is how it limits growth) and slightly buckling the neck?</div></div>

Good thought. I tried it with the pin completely removed and I still can't get a case to go in without really forcing it.

It seems to stop as soon as the mouth contacts the inside of the die where it gets thin. At this point it seems like the neck of these LC cases has just expanded so much from a lose chamber that it's causing sizing issues. What do you think?
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

all the force being required is from using the small base die on some apparently well expanded brass - if you really feel that you need SB than run them through a standard FL die first, relube and then the SB

the expanding ball may be grabbing the neck and pulling the shoulder back out - dry lube on the neck can help this - to test for this, run some through the die with the center shaft (decapper/expander) removed and see if the shoulder is bumped properly
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

Have you disassembled your sizing die and cleaned it yet? The instructions say to use a paperclip to clear the vent hole as polishing compound is sometimes obstructing it. This could be part of the reason. I'd suggest using some dry lube spray (One Shot or similar) to clean it after completely disassembling. Inspect it and reassemble.

If it still doesn't work, call RCBS. They have been MORE than fair with me and go out of their way to make things right.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 244</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Have you disassembled your sizing die and cleaned it yet? The instructions say to use a paperclip to clear the vent hole as polishing compound is sometimes obstructing it. This could be part of the reason. I'd suggest using some dry lube spray (One Shot or similar) to clean it after completely disassembling. Inspect it and reassemble.

If it still doesn't work, call RCBS. They have been MORE than fair with me and go out of their way to make things right. </div></div>

Yeah, I did that when I first got the dies. I double checked that the hole was clear today too.

I'll consider the dry lube as you are now the second person to mention it. I think I will try using a normal die first as an intermediate and then use the SB die.

If that doesn't work, I will definitely be contacting RCBS. But right now I don't think it's a die problem. I think the brass is just huge.

Thanks everyone for the valuable input!
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

i have a small base X die and reloading any LC brass is damn near impossible no matter how much lube or force is used, this brass is too thick in the web area to run in a small base die, use a standard sizer and other brand of commercial brass and it will make your life a lot easier.
hope this helps, but this combo is not meant to be.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties


Get new cases. The chamber that brass was fired in was some large battle field type dimension. Did this for a friend. Fired the ammo and the necks split. Too much working of the case material. Not worth the trouble. Trash the brass.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

The Wilson gauge IMHO is not a very good product, try using a 40SW case, decap it, decap the cases being measured, flip the 40 case on the neck and measure, this redneck headspace gauge works because the measuring point of the 308 family of cases is .400, I think you have other problems too but this will aid you in determining if your die is bumping the shoulders for cheap.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

I've always heard that for the M1A you should use SB dies. Else you risk slam fires or out of battery detonations. Is this just internet hype?

I do use a primer pocket uniformer so the primers are seated a tad deeper than normal so that should help.

My friend is going to loan me a normal FL sizing die when I see him next. I'll give that a shot to see if it solves my problems.

@427Cobra - Cool idea. I will give that a try and see what I come up with.

Again, thanks for the input.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

Cobra,

That is an awesome idea.

Lunchbox,

If the die sis hitting the shellholder and you have to force the case in with too much effort than it should be sizing the case properly. It really doesn't take much to bump the shoulder. I am very interested on how this will work out for you. Can you size on those dies without the de-capping pin? Maybe take that out and eliminate that possibility of interference all together?
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<span style="font-style: italic">"I'm using an RCBS small-base, FL sizing X-die for my SA M1A....even after running the case up until the shell holder hits the bottom of the FL sizing die (which uses all of my body weight) the brass just barely reads as a safe length on the gauge."</span>

I'm confused worse than you are; you say you're putting body weight to get the shell holder against the die then that you're making the shoulder barely safe length; what do you mean "safe"? With a drop-in gage you only get the SAMMI min and max lengths and that has to do with chamber fit, not safety. Actually, if the ammo chambers reliably the less we set the shoulders back the better. Even then, if it goes between the gage steps it's in factory tolerance. But all we need do is make ammo that fits <span style="font-style: italic">our</span> rifle, how it fits a SAAMI gage hardly matters unless we're making factory spec stuff to swap around on the firing line.

Military chambers are cut with the same reamers as other rifles so the need for a Small Base die is rarely really needed.

Small Base dies are typically 2 thou tighter at the - surprise! - base, not the neck. If we don't fully insert the case into the die the neck can't possible be fully sized but necks are quite easy to size anyway. Not so the thick base; that part is what's difficult to size and a couple thou there will make a difference. BUT if the thick part is properly lubed it should be fairly easy to size in any common die, SB or not. And I promise you that air trapped in a sizer won't keep the cases from fully entering, the worst that could happen is the shoulders could get harmlessly dented a bit. The only difference in the X die is a shoulder on the expander rod, that won't present any real differece in sizing effort or shoulder length.

I make .22-250 and .243 outta .30-06 cases with no great difficulty and I assure you that FL sizing .308s from any maker in a .308 die is a breeze in comparison. Lube your cases better and shoulve them home; if they chamber and lock up reliably you'll be fine. If not, THEN is the time to grind or sand a couple thou off the bottom of the die. I've never quite grasped why some folks say to grind the top of the shell holder; since the problem is usually the sizer is a tad too long it seems rational to work there and it sure won't damage the die.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

It shouldn't require nearly the force you describe to resize cases...even when using small base dies. I would contact the die manufacturer, and describe the issue. Most die makers like RCBS try really hard to make quality dies, otherwise, the negative feedback from reloaders would kill their business. Ask RCBS about what is going on, and I'll bet then request that you send the die back so they can take a look at it.

I'm guessing the problem has something to do with the odd ring in the neck, and/or a die that was manufactured a little too long. If you have an extra shell holder you can sacrifice, you can file down the top of the shell holder and see if that runs the case further into the die...either way, I'll bet you end up sending the die back.

You could try taking the die back to where you bought it and exchanging it for a different die.

As an additional note, I'm wondering why you use a small base die? I have shot 308's in an M1A, HK91, TRG22, DPMS LR308, and a Remington PSS. All functioned just fine with a standard sizing die. Did you previously have difficulty with a standard sizing die?
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Unknown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It shouldn't require nearly the force you describe to resize cases...even when using small base dies. I would contact the die manufacturer, and describe the issue. Most die makers like RCBS try really hard to make quality dies, otherwise, the negative feedback from reloaders would kill their business. Ask RCBS about what is going on, and I'll bet then request that you send the die back so they can take a look at it.

I'm guessing the problem has something to do with the odd ring in the neck, and/or a die that was manufactured a little too long. If you have an extra shell holder you can sacrifice, you can file down the top of the shell holder and see if that runs the case further into the die...either way, I'll bet you end up sending the die back.

You could try taking the die back to where you bought it and exchanging it for a different die.

As an additional note, I'm wondering why you use a small base die? I have shot 308's in an M1A, HK91, TRG22, DPMS LR308, and a Remington PSS. All functioned just fine with a standard sizing die. Did you previously have difficulty with a standard sizing die? </div></div>

OP never had a standard die, said in a post he was going to borrow one
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I'm confused worse than you are; you say you're putting body weight to get the shell holder against the die then that you're making the shoulder barely safe length; what do you mean "safe"? With a drop-in gage you only get the SAMMI min and max lengths and that has to do with chamber fit, not safety.</div></div>

What I said is that it takes my entire body weight to get the case to go entirely into the die. I then later stated that even after doing this the gauge I has just barely reads as a safe length - which, yes, I could have specified as it barely sits flush with the max SAAMI length. But, if you had bothered to read, you would have known that I was having a hard time getting the shoulder set back.

Chamber fit absolutely affects safety in an M1A. If the round doesn't want to go all the way in it can cause an out of battery detonation or a slam fire. This is a known quirk of the rifle.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Military chambers are cut with the same reamers as other rifles so the need for a Small Base die is rarely really needed. </div></div>

I have read that the chambers in the M1A loaded can be slightly tighter. Plus, if this were strictly true, then brass fired in my rifle would be as huge as the brass I ordered - which was fired in a military rifle. But it's not. It's smaller.



<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lube your cases better and shoulve them home</div></div>

You've obviously not taken the time to read my posts. I use Imperial sizing die wax. Even with generous amounts of lube it is taking entirely WAY to much force to size the cases.

You provided some good input and I thank you for that. But I'll probably catch some flak for saying this as a brand new member, but please take the time to read what's going on before posting a diatribe that's largely irrelevant.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Unknown</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
As an additional note, I'm wondering why you use a small base die? </div></div>

Literally almost everything I read on the subject said to use SB dies for the M1A. I'm fine with using a standard die if it works.

Like I said, I'm going to borrow a normal FL sizing die from a friend and see what's what. If it seems to chamber fine under light finger pressure without the SB dies then I'll use that.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

I use the x-die for my 308 loads also,but mine is not the small base version.A gentleman from RCBS tech support told me to use the standard x-die for this round unless the rounds wouldn't chamber.I've never needed the small base die.Pretty much all the brass I use is Lake City once fired.That being said,I too have had batches in which some cases were almost impossible to size(the headstamps were lc 91).I did get them sized and shot many of them.On close inspection after firing and cleaning,I found numerous cases beginning to try to separate forward of the web.I too believe these cases were originally fired from machine guns.I have used cases with newer headstamps and did not have that problem.
I believe you have two issues here.Some (or all) of your cases are blown out and you may have an improperly machined die.Contact RCBS.Their customer service is second too none.And don't assume all lc brass is bad.I've loaded thousands of LC cases and had more good than bad.If you feel the need to unload some LC 308 brass,pm me and we'll discuss it.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

You've got a lot of different things going on here, and it seems to have become a bit confused. Use the gages. The Wilson's work just fine, but you need to know how to use them. They can be used to measure shoulder setback, and that's what the "step" on the bottom of the die is there for. That step, incidentally, is approximately .006", which is what you've got to play with between "proper" headspace and a problem. There's other gages on the market that are easier to use and more precise, but they're also generally more expensive. Whatever, you need to have, and use, a gage of some sort.

As to military chambers being cut with the same reamers, no, they're not. That's why you have 7.62x51 NATO reamers, 7.62 Match reamers, and a whole host of 308 Winchester reamers. Ditto with the 5.56mm and 223 Remington reamers. Not the same, and the differences can be very important. Oftentimes, the differences center more in the trhoat length or leade angles, but they ARE different, and can't be safely assumed to be one in the same.

If you're loading for an M1A, you're already into an advanced form of handloading. Most of what you know about reloading for bolt guns is of little value here, and you sort of need to go back to square one and reboot. Yes, Small Base dies are often used for loading rounds for autoloaders. In a great many instances, they aren't actually needed, but they're not going to cause any problems. In fact, aside form the chambering issue, they also ensure more reliable extraction.

Lake City brass . . . good and bad here. Yes, it's very good stuff, about the best you can get for an M1A since it's actually made with autoloaders in mind. The problem in accquiring the stuff in bulk is you don't always know where it came from. If it was fired in machineguns, it's not a good investment. It's already halfway to a head separation, and in many instances is going to be a bear to resize. If the stuff was used in M14s, M21s or bolt guns, then it's outstanding stuff and you're good to go. I would recommend Glen Zediker's book on Hnadloading for Competition, as he does an excellent job of covering the differences (and there are many) between loading for a bolt gun, and what's required for a gas gun. Lots of great info in there anyway, and it'll make you a better reloader all the way around.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

ok, So it sounds like you need to have the shell holder or the die base machined to actually head space the case properly. The effort to properly size should be no more than a slight effort with your weak hand. If your only sizing the brass for your one weapon. You would only need to push the shoulder of the case back to your head space dimension -0.002 to -0.003 in for accuracy and reliability. I would suggest getting a RCBS Case mic. For die setup it's money. Especially if your shooting matches, you can go as far as sort your sized brass by the head space *Lake city from either the same or different years of the same weight will have different amounts of springback* so I sort my match brass in 0.002 batches. (I find my LC brass has a range of 0.004 after being sized when I don't anneal the brass.)

Back to your base problem. I would call RCBS, send them 4 cases you sized with the die and ask them to match your die to your shellholder. Once properly done you should have a like 3-10 thou clearance between shell holder and die. Personally I have stuck with dillon and redding dies but RCBS is pretty good at taking care of people with issues.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kevin Thomas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">They can be used to measure shoulder setback, and that's what the "step" on the bottom of the die is there for. That step, incidentally, is approximately .006", which is what you've got to play with between "proper" headspace and a problem.</div></div>

Right. I can't get the cases sit below flush on the higher step because the shoulder isn't being set back. Now, that may or may not mean that my cases won't chamber correctly in my rifle. But to me, it seems like if the die is in spec, and I go all the way up in the die, then it should at least set the shoulder back enough to bring it to within SAAMI spec. Right?

Maybe the gauge is out of spec? or both?


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kevin Thomas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I would recommend Glen Zediker's book on Hnadloading for Competition, as he does an excellent job of covering the differences (and there are many) between loading for a bolt gun, and what's required for a gas gun. Lots of great info in there anyway, and it'll make you a better reloader all the way around. </div></div>


Yep, already read it three times
laugh.gif
Good material. Thanks for the input!
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<span style="font-style: italic">"But, if you had bothered to read, you would have known that I was having a hard time getting the shoulder set back."</span>

I read what you said. What you said really didn't make a lot of sense ... I mean it wasn't very clear, so I asked what the heck you did mean.

<span style="font-style: italic">"Chamber fit absolutely affects safety in an M1A. If the round doesn't want to go all the way in it can cause an out of battery detonation or a slam fire."</span>

You don't quite seem to understand the difference between a slam fire and out of battery fire either; even if you are using an X die without the X...., with or without Imperial. ?? And, I suspect I was shooting the "M1A" before your daddy was in diapers.

It's another puzzle why such an expert is asking fundamental reloading questions like why it's so hard to size necks and how to move case shoulders.

Good luck.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
You don't quite seem to understand the difference between a slam fire and out of battery fire either; even if you are using an X die without the X...., with or without Imperial. ?? And, I suspect I was shooting the "M1A" before your daddy was in diapers.
</div></div>

Both a slam fire and an out of battery detonation can be caused by a case not wanting to chamber <span style="font-style: italic">in this rifle</span>. I would recommend you read up on the internal safeties in an M1A and how and when they can fail.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
even if you are using an X die without the X....,</div></div>

An X die has nothing to do with slam fires or OOB detonations. It has to do with trimming your brass less.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
And, I suspect I was shooting the "M1A" before your daddy was in diapers. </div></div>

Again, completely irrelevant and inappropriate.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
It's another puzzle why such an expert is asking fundamental reloading questions like why it's so hard to size necks and how to move case shoulders. </div></div>

Never asked how to move shoulders. I asked why my die seems to be malfunctioning.

I also never claimed to be an expert.

Kindly fuck off.


I suppose no one cares, but I will not be logging into SH anymore so you can stop following the thread.

I came to SH because I really thought that I would get away from the trolls. Guess not.

I do thank everyone who offered valuable insight. I learned some things.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lunchboxtheman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I suppose no one cares, but I will not be logging into SH anymore so you can stop following the thread.

I came to SH because I really thought that I would get away from the trolls. Guess not.

I do thank everyone who offered valuable insight. I learned some things.</div></div>

Welcome fellow STL'er.

Fuzzball is a bit outspoken and thinks everyone's Internet skin is as thick as his. Don't think for a moment that he's representative of SH as a whole.

I've been following this thread on the sidelines trying to gather as much information as possible. I have an M1A (And first shot an M14 in the Navy in 1982) and for what it's worth, I use an RCBS Small Base Die (not an X-Die) to ensure my brass fits the M1A's chamber and cycles properly.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<span style="font-style: italic">"Fuzzball is a bit outspoken and thinks everyone's Internet skin is as thick as his. Don't think for a moment that he's representative of SH as a whole."</span>

If lunch box is as tender skinned as it appears, he's going to get his feelings hurt on any forum, this one isn't unique, and note that he got snotty with me, not the reverse. Grown ups usually take responses as they come, ignoring any that don't apply or they don't like, and without pouting.

I'm a plain spoken grown up; my skin is thick because my ego isn't at risk when an anonymous poster gets angry at something that was never intended to offend, or if he disagrees with me. So, I really don't care when someone picks up his marbles and goes back home to mommy!
smile.gif

 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lunchboxtheman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
You don't quite seem to understand the difference between a slam fire and out of battery fire either; even if you are using an X die without the X...., with or without Imperial. ?? And, I suspect I was shooting the "M1A" before your daddy was in diapers.
</div></div>

Both a slam fire and an out of battery detonation can be caused by a case not wanting to chamber <span style="font-style: italic">in this rifle</span>. I would recommend you read up on the internal safeties in an M1A and how and when they can fail.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
even if you are using an X die without the X....,</div></div>

An X die has nothing to do with slam fires or OOB detonations. It has to do with trimming your brass less.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
And, I suspect I was shooting the "M1A" before your daddy was in diapers. </div></div>

Again, completely irrelevant and inappropriate.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
It's another puzzle why such an expert is asking fundamental reloading questions like why it's so hard to size necks and how to move case shoulders. </div></div>

Never asked how to move shoulders. I asked why my die seems to be malfunctioning.

I also never claimed to be an expert.

Kindly fuck off.


I suppose no one cares, but I will not be logging into SH anymore so you can stop following the thread.

I came to SH because I really thought that I would get away from the trolls. Guess not.

I do thank everyone who offered valuable insight. I learned some things.</div></div>

Completely uncalled for in my opinion. Fuzzball seems to know a great deal about reloading as do many others here. He has offered to help you here and asked relevant questions but you throw shit in his face like a monkey.

You mention that this is the first case that you have EVER reloaded. Don't put your first time frustrations out on people that are trying to help. Keep reading the "How to Guides" instead of listening to people with real world experience.
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Fuzzball</div><div class="ubbcode-body">. . . when an anonymous poster gets angry . . .
</div></div>

So, "Fuzzball" is what it says on your birth certificate and drivers license?
 
Re: FL Sizing Difficulties

The X-die is a great idea. But I talked with others that have experienced some issues too. I learned to appreciate simplicity a long time ago. Have you considered going back to a regular FL die and trim every now and then? I'd have a problem with any piece of equipment that I have to grind/alter. It should be good to go right out of the box.