Flash Hole Deburring Tool

svencool

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Mar 29, 2011
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I'm gonna be loading up some 223 & 308 bullets and am using new Winchester Brass and was wondering if I should use a flash hole deburring tool on new brass? It was also suggested by a guy from Sinclair that I set the tool in the brass and let it bottom out and then using a .015 feeler gauge and set the stop so it will only take out .015 material. Does that sound about right? Thanks for any input.... Also would you use a Primer Pocket Uniformer as well before putting in primers? Thx... I would also like to add that I'm trying to do everything I can do to make sure that the rounds will as accurate as I can make them. Im new to this but am trying to cut the learning curve if possible
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Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

Using the stop that hits the case mouth all the cases must be the exact same length. Any difference in case lenght will be transmitted to the amount of material that is cut out of the flash hole. I use the tool with no stop and feel that the feel when cutting is more accurate than the stop method unless you trim the cases very accuratly. I am very careful when trimming, and hold all cases to the thousandth, and still do not use the stop.
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

Get both from Sinclair international. The primer pocket uniformer most likely won't be needed on 5.56 cases but possibly so on 308 in my experience with loading each. the flash hole tool you set a hair long, it is just to center it in hole, not to control depth. If you have a Sinclair tool the depth of the flash hole reamer is controlled by a shoulder on the tool down at the tip.
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

RCBS tool works fine, and then get yourself extra collars for different calibers. I just turn with light pressure for 2 revolutions and call it done. That will clear out any "tab" of material on the flash hole. Is your brass really uniform enough that you can measure flash hole depth from the neck like Sinclair seems to be telling you???

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=396980

Primer pocket uniforming is debated and is probably of marginal value, unless you are a benchrest guys. But I do it as a primer pocket cleaning method.

krosgl57 on eBay sells an adjustable tool set for a decent price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PRIMER-POCKET-CLEANE...=item4aaadeddce
 
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Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jet_lagged</div><div class="ubbcode-body">RCBS tool works fine, and then get yourself extra collars for different calibers. I just turn with light pressure for 2 revolutions and call it done. That will clear out any "tab" of material on the flash hole. Is your brass really uniform enough that you can measure flash hole depth from the neck like Sinclair seems to be telling you???

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=396980

Primer pocket uniforming is debated and is probably of marginal value, unless you are a benchrest guys. But I do it as a primer pocket cleaning method.

krosgl57 on eBay sells an adjustable tool set for a decent price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PRIMER-POCKET-CLEANE...=item4aaadeddce </div></div>

From what I was reading on the Midway page they talk about the burr that's left inside from when the primer hole is cut. So am I to think I really only have to deburr this hole only once? I do trim my cases and I carry that out 3 decimal places past the point like x.xxx
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

I use the K&M flashole tool, it indexes on the bottom inside of the case, so all cuts are uniform depth, it deburrs the flashole and put a little chamfer on the edge.
There is a 'sliding cone/ball' on the shaft of the tool that sits against the case mouth that centres the tool, and you don't have to worry about case length.
It works on all calibres (that share the same flashole size)

It comes in 2 versions, with a plastic end you turn with your fingers,
Or the (pro ?) version with a 1/2" drive on the end you can chuck in an electric screwdriver.

Can't really remember the price, but I'm sure it would be under $20
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Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

Check your new Winchester brass carefully. The primer pockets on the last batch of .308 Win. I got were not cut to the right depth. I had to do (major) cutting to get the primers to seat flush. Worst batch I have seen.

Good luck

Jerry
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

Its not just me but MANY shooters have tested the 'advantage' of uniforming the flash hole.

They found no advantage to be had.

I have heard benchrest shooters gain something, but I cant confirm that.
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jerry M</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Check your new Winchester brass carefully. The primer pockets on the last batch of .308 Win. I got were not cut to the right depth. I had to do (major) cutting to get the primers to seat flush. Worst batch I have seen.

Good luck

Jerry </div></div>

So I'm using the Sinclair Primer Pocket Uniformers as they would call them. So I should be able to just check them with that as it's my understanding that there cut to the right dept when there made. So they shouldn't take much if anything out if there set to the right dept. I'm new to this but I guess I'll just learn as I go.... Thanks for the heads up Jerry I just ordered a 1000 cases so next week I've got my work cut out
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Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: notquiteright</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its not just me but MANY shooters have tested the 'advantage' of uniforming the flash hole.

They found no advantage to be had.

I have heard benchrest shooters gain something, but I cant confirm that. </div></div>

I have read that and even heard that as well but I figure if I do a little here and little there then it can't hurt
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and god knows I need all the help I can get
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Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

Just to follow up with what Jerry mentioned, I'm in the same boat. I only had a 50rd bag of Winchester but the primer pockets definitely require some work. I'm not sure exactly how they're manufactured, but their pocket face is very concave around the inside edge. I use an RCBS uniformer on the power case prep center and it takes a couple minutes per case to get them nice and flush. You'll see as it starts cutting that it first cuts/faces an outer ring and as that's slowly leveled out it works its way in toward the flash hole. Primers seat very smoothly once it's done though.
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: svencool</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm gonna be loading up some 223 & 308 bullets and am using new Winchester Brass and was wondering if I should use a flash hole deburring tool on new brass? It was also suggested by a guy from Sinclair that I set the tool in the brass and let it bottom out and then using a .015 feeler gauge and set the stop so it will only take out .015 material. Does that sound about right? Thanks for any input.... Also would you use a Primer Pocket Uniformer as well before putting in primers? Thx... I would also like to add that I'm trying to do everything I can do to make sure that the rounds will as accurate as I can make them. Im new to this but am trying to cut the learning curve if possible
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</div></div>

I use a Lyman FH deburrer and a Sinclair PP uniformer for stuff that I'll target shoot with.

I don't get too anal with the FH tool, but do enough to get the burrs off and you will have burrs. If my FHs aren't perfectly consistent from one case to the next, I'm not jumping off of any bridge.

Sinclair sells a separate reamer to open up FHs to a standard .001" over SAAMI. I don't have these, as I'm not really a BenchRest kind of guy.

For blasting/zombie/SHTF ammo, I just check for length, FL size and call it a day.

Chris
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CardiacKid</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just to follow up with what Jerry mentioned, I'm in the same boat. I only had a 50rd bag of Winchester but the primer pockets definitely require some work. I'm not sure exactly how they're manufactured, but their pocket face is very concave around the inside edge. I use an RCBS uniformer on the power case prep center and it takes a couple minutes per case to get them nice and flush. You'll see as it starts cutting that it first cuts/faces an outer ring and as that's slowly leveled out it works its way in toward the flash hole. Primers seat very smoothly once it's done though. </div></div>

Wow well I was hoping that buying Winchester brass wouldn't have been that much work!!!
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Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

I use the possum hollow tool for flash holes that indexes on the bottom of the case and I have found it worthwhile for some of the rifles I load for. At 100 yards a cleaned up flash hole vs factory punched hole doesn't seem to make much difference... I think it has to do with ignition consistency, I bet a chronograph would show a tighter ES of velocity. My results have shown up as less vertical variation on paper. It may not make much of a difference on a properly worked up load but I clean all the holes up for load development then only clean up new brass that will be used at longer ranges. Its a one time step, and every once in a while I can feel a significant burr that might have caused an "outlier" velocity wise.
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

I did a pretty exhaustive test a few years back which is what spawned the Reloading 101 article stickied here. I netted some significant velocity and accuracy improvements when testing chamfered holes (both sides) vs stock form in LC Match cases. IIRC it was on the order of a 30% accuracy increase and dropped the ES by 1/3 ish.

I certainly subscribe to the cutter that indexes off the web of the case for the inside and I use a Lyman w/ the stop collar set really low for the outside. On small primers both RCBS and Sinclairs offer a cutter w/ a collar (turn it over) that will fit in the small primer pocket 9/16" shank IIRC.

Tapering the hole(s) which feeds the fire to the powder is certainly a worthy one time endeavor for any precision ammo IMHO.

Cheers,

Doc
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

I've used win brass alot. If you want to play benchrest with it I'd suggest buying it in bulk, 500 pieces. First cull the upper and lower 10% by wieght. Use the remaining 400 as internal volume will be more meaningful than fondling flash holes.

If you are serious about getting all the help you can, forsake benchrest routines until you attend a school or two and learn what counts most to least.

I'd camfer the case's throat before its flash hole. Keeping the bullet's butt nice and clean makes more sense.
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

I like the K&M tool but use my RCBS pilots on it to keep it centered. The depth of the cut is controlled by the tool and it's centered with the pilots.
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tapering the hole(s) which feeds the fire to the powder is certainly a worthy one time endeavor for any precision ammo IMHO.

Cheers,

Doc </div></div>

Thanks Doc
 
Re: Flash Hole Deburring Tool

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: notquiteright</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you are serious about getting all the help you can, forsake benchrest routines until you attend a school or two and learn what counts most to least.
</div></div>

When I'm done work 6/12s that's not a bad idea I'm always up for learning
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