I have read that some people also prep the flash hole with a reamer to give it a beveled edge for the primer fire to flow more uniformly into the case. Is this a personal choice or in random use?
Flash hole reamer
- Thread starter mexicanmatch
- Start date
Re: Flash hole reamer
I do the inside but have never done the flash hole. what do i use and were do i get a tool to do the job. I use lapua and win brass
I do the inside but have never done the flash hole. what do i use and were do i get a tool to do the job. I use lapua and win brass
Re: Flash hole reamer
I use a reamer on flash holes for my match brass. Then I use a deburring tool to remove any burr on the inside. The brass needs to be trimmed to the same over all length to use the flash hole deburring tool properly. (Unless you do it by feel, which isn't a bad thing.)
I use a reamer on flash holes for my match brass. Then I use a deburring tool to remove any burr on the inside. The brass needs to be trimmed to the same over all length to use the flash hole deburring tool properly. (Unless you do it by feel, which isn't a bad thing.)
Re: Flash hole reamer
I always trim my brass and use a Lyman tool. Do it once and its done for as long as the brass will last.
I always trim my brass and use a Lyman tool. Do it once and its done for as long as the brass will last.
Re: Flash hole reamer
With the Lyman tool, do you run it just through the case mouth as suggested or do you do it from the rear too? That seems to give it a little bevel pointing in which I would think would help direct the flame from the primer. Any issues with using the tool from the back of the case?
With the Lyman tool, do you run it just through the case mouth as suggested or do you do it from the rear too? That seems to give it a little bevel pointing in which I would think would help direct the flame from the primer. Any issues with using the tool from the back of the case?
Re: Flash hole reamer
That would seem unnecessary to me. Flash hole deburring tools address a specific issue of how some cases are made, i.e., the burr that forms is on the inside. Since you only do it once, it's not a recurring time sink.
That being said, Sinclair has a "Flash Hole Reamer" that uniforms the flash hole from the butt end as well. I don't see the need for this step in my game; maybe a BR guy will chime in.
Another option for flash hole deburring are the Sinclair tools, GenI (with pilots) and GenII tool. I use the GenII tool by hand.
That would seem unnecessary to me. Flash hole deburring tools address a specific issue of how some cases are made, i.e., the burr that forms is on the inside. Since you only do it once, it's not a recurring time sink.
That being said, Sinclair has a "Flash Hole Reamer" that uniforms the flash hole from the butt end as well. I don't see the need for this step in my game; maybe a BR guy will chime in.
Another option for flash hole deburring are the Sinclair tools, GenI (with pilots) and GenII tool. I use the GenII tool by hand.
Re: Flash hole reamer
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mexican match</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have read that some people also prep the flash hole with a reamer to give it a beveled edge for the primer fire to flow more uniformly into the case. Is this a personal choice or in random use? </div></div>
I use this tool to do this job. It has a preset depth that enables the primer pocket to be the same bevel in all your cases. The consistent bevel allows a uniform entry of the primer flash into the bottom of the case.
Some brands of cases have large amounts of brass swarf around the flash hole on the inside of the case in random patterns. I found RP, FC and Win cases are bad for the swarf.
Lapua are good they must be manufactured using a different manufacturing process.
I still check them and I might find one in 500 Lapua cases need cleaning up.
http://www.shooters-supply.com/photos/HaydonFlashDebur.jpg
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mexican match</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have read that some people also prep the flash hole with a reamer to give it a beveled edge for the primer fire to flow more uniformly into the case. Is this a personal choice or in random use? </div></div>
I use this tool to do this job. It has a preset depth that enables the primer pocket to be the same bevel in all your cases. The consistent bevel allows a uniform entry of the primer flash into the bottom of the case.
Some brands of cases have large amounts of brass swarf around the flash hole on the inside of the case in random patterns. I found RP, FC and Win cases are bad for the swarf.
Lapua are good they must be manufactured using a different manufacturing process.
I still check them and I might find one in 500 Lapua cases need cleaning up.
http://www.shooters-supply.com/photos/HaydonFlashDebur.jpg
Re: Flash hole reamer
Your talking about de-burring right?
Theres de-burring and then there is reaming... You can ream flash-holes with a pen style drill set from Harbor Freight, or de-burr with a number of reloader specific tools. I usualy dont de-burr unless I'm using something other than Lapua or Norma. I will ream/uniform flash-hole diameter on a new lot of brass, although most times higher quality brass doesnt need it.
Your talking about de-burring right?
Theres de-burring and then there is reaming... You can ream flash-holes with a pen style drill set from Harbor Freight, or de-burr with a number of reloader specific tools. I usualy dont de-burr unless I'm using something other than Lapua or Norma. I will ream/uniform flash-hole diameter on a new lot of brass, although most times higher quality brass doesnt need it.
Re: Flash hole reamer
I use the Lyman hand tool in a Hornady case prep center. The threads are the same. Just an extra step when I trim new to me brass.
I use the Lyman hand tool in a Hornady case prep center. The threads are the same. Just an extra step when I trim new to me brass.
Re: Flash hole reamer
i may be stupid but i ream both the inside and outside of my primer pockets.my rounds seem to be acurate enough for my ability at this point.pretty much all i use is winchester brass though.
i may be stupid but i ream both the inside and outside of my primer pockets.my rounds seem to be acurate enough for my ability at this point.pretty much all i use is winchester brass though.
Re: Flash hole reamer
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: motodog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i may be stupid but i ream both the inside and outside of my primer pockets.my rounds seem to be acurate enough for my ability at this point.pretty much all i use is winchester brass though.</div></div>
That's what I was wondering about, is there any advantage to reaming both sides of the pocket?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: motodog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i may be stupid but i ream both the inside and outside of my primer pockets.my rounds seem to be acurate enough for my ability at this point.pretty much all i use is winchester brass though.</div></div>
That's what I was wondering about, is there any advantage to reaming both sides of the pocket?
Re: Flash hole reamer
What Waldo said...
You de-burr the inside to get rid of the manufacturing burr (on some makes of brass) from the case mouth end.
Most folks uniform the primer pocket; some folks ream (from the base end) with a flash hole reamer. I'm not one of them.
This post is the first I've heard of folks reaming from the case mouth end.
Would it hurt anything? Probably not. Is it necessary?
So I'm looking in the Sinclair catalog -- I don't even see a flash hole reamer that you would go from the case mouth end. Not necessarily the definitive source but...
What Waldo said...
You de-burr the inside to get rid of the manufacturing burr (on some makes of brass) from the case mouth end.
Most folks uniform the primer pocket; some folks ream (from the base end) with a flash hole reamer. I'm not one of them.
This post is the first I've heard of folks reaming from the case mouth end.
Would it hurt anything? Probably not. Is it necessary?
So I'm looking in the Sinclair catalog -- I don't even see a flash hole reamer that you would go from the case mouth end. Not necessarily the definitive source but...
Re: Flash hole reamer
The tool the thread started talking about it this http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=729748
I might be getting terminology mixed up. This is a "deburring" tool that works from the case mouth. When using it from the back end, I noticed it cuts a little cone shape in towards the case, but don't know if that is a recommended thing to do or not
The tool the thread started talking about it this http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=729748
I might be getting terminology mixed up. This is a "deburring" tool that works from the case mouth. When using it from the back end, I noticed it cuts a little cone shape in towards the case, but don't know if that is a recommended thing to do or not
Re: Flash hole reamer
Right, three different things: flash hole de-burring (that's what the Lyman tool you linked to and similar Sinclair tools do), primer pocket uniforming (I expect most folks on the Hide do this), and then flash hole reamers.
If I was absolutely worried about the flash hole uniformity, I would use a flash hole reamer that is designed specifically for that task. I'm unconvinced that flash hole reaming is necessary based upon my visual inspection of most of my brass (Lapua and Win mostly). I'm willing to bet the BR guys do it as they have to be obsessed with eliminating every possible variable. We LR Tac competitors don't have those same tolerances as a general rule.
OK, so you're using your de-burring tool differently than designed (from base end). I doubt it's hurting anything but I think it's an unnecessary step.
Any velocity differences measured between doing it "from both ends" vs. only from the case mouth end? My guess is you won't see a difference (even if somehow it's changing the ignition flow dynamics).
Right, three different things: flash hole de-burring (that's what the Lyman tool you linked to and similar Sinclair tools do), primer pocket uniforming (I expect most folks on the Hide do this), and then flash hole reamers.
If I was absolutely worried about the flash hole uniformity, I would use a flash hole reamer that is designed specifically for that task. I'm unconvinced that flash hole reaming is necessary based upon my visual inspection of most of my brass (Lapua and Win mostly). I'm willing to bet the BR guys do it as they have to be obsessed with eliminating every possible variable. We LR Tac competitors don't have those same tolerances as a general rule.
OK, so you're using your de-burring tool differently than designed (from base end). I doubt it's hurting anything but I think it's an unnecessary step.
Any velocity differences measured between doing it "from both ends" vs. only from the case mouth end? My guess is you won't see a difference (even if somehow it's changing the ignition flow dynamics).
Re: Flash hole reamer
OK, we have...
1.) Flash hole deburring (Putting a chamfer on the flash hole)
Done from the case mouth end. Highly recommended in low- medium quality brass.
2.) Primer pocket Uniforming (Putting a flat, perpendicular floor on your primer pocket) Also highly recommended in low-medium quality brass.
3.) Flash hole reaming/uniforming (uniforming the diameter or the flash hole via pen-style drill bit) Probably a waste of time, but I dont mind wasteing time when it gives me peace of mind.
OK, we have...
1.) Flash hole deburring (Putting a chamfer on the flash hole)
Done from the case mouth end. Highly recommended in low- medium quality brass.
2.) Primer pocket Uniforming (Putting a flat, perpendicular floor on your primer pocket) Also highly recommended in low-medium quality brass.
3.) Flash hole reaming/uniforming (uniforming the diameter or the flash hole via pen-style drill bit) Probably a waste of time, but I dont mind wasteing time when it gives me peace of mind.
Re: Flash hole reamer
Several pretty good shots have tested all this flash hole diddling so its not just me.
No one has shown a real time difference, many say there is but none have shown the difference.
I suppose its a comfort to some to make everything as uniform as possible.
Cutting a slight bevel inside the case mouth-
Thicker walled brass can bite the butt of a bullet as it is seated. A small sliver of butt brass can be cut out. Thinner walled brass like winchester/blackhills isnt as rough on bullet butts as fed or remington brass. Hornady is somewhere in between.
Several pretty good shots have tested all this flash hole diddling so its not just me.
No one has shown a real time difference, many say there is but none have shown the difference.
I suppose its a comfort to some to make everything as uniform as possible.
Cutting a slight bevel inside the case mouth-
Thicker walled brass can bite the butt of a bullet as it is seated. A small sliver of butt brass can be cut out. Thinner walled brass like winchester/blackhills isnt as rough on bullet butts as fed or remington brass. Hornady is somewhere in between.
Re: Flash hole reamer
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wheres-Waldo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK, we have...
1.) Flash hole deburring (Putting a chamfer on the flash hole)
Done from the case mouth end. Highly recommended in low- medium quality brass.
2.) Primer pocket Uniforming (Putting a flat, perpendicular floor on your primer pocket) Also highly recommended in low-medium quality brass.
3.) Flash hole reaming/uniforming (uniforming the diameter or the flash hole via pen-style drill bit) Probably a waste of time, but I dont mind wasteing time when it gives me peace of mind.
</div></div>
Is there evidence to show that primer pocket uniforming pays off on paper or is that another step to produce warm fuzzies?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wheres-Waldo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK, we have...
1.) Flash hole deburring (Putting a chamfer on the flash hole)
Done from the case mouth end. Highly recommended in low- medium quality brass.
2.) Primer pocket Uniforming (Putting a flat, perpendicular floor on your primer pocket) Also highly recommended in low-medium quality brass.
3.) Flash hole reaming/uniforming (uniforming the diameter or the flash hole via pen-style drill bit) Probably a waste of time, but I dont mind wasteing time when it gives me peace of mind.
Is there evidence to show that primer pocket uniforming pays off on paper or is that another step to produce warm fuzzies?
Re: Flash hole reamer
Warm fuzzies mostly....But I have seen pockets off kilter enough to have one side substantialy cut, and the other side untouched...
Those off kilter ones may have a difference on paper after being uniformed, but I have no evidence first hand.
Warm fuzzies mostly....But I have seen pockets off kilter enough to have one side substantialy cut, and the other side untouched...
Those off kilter ones may have a difference on paper after being uniformed, but I have no evidence first hand.
Re: Flash hole reamer
On mil surp and commercial brass, I found that the flashholes are never really that nice. So I fix them with my Lyman tool which works like a charm. I even do this for my Lapua brass but don't ever see the difference. It's just for my peace of mind. Just don't over do it. You barely take off any material to make a nice bevel.
On mil surp and commercial brass, I found that the flashholes are never really that nice. So I fix them with my Lyman tool which works like a charm. I even do this for my Lapua brass but don't ever see the difference. It's just for my peace of mind. Just don't over do it. You barely take off any material to make a nice bevel.
Re: Flash hole reamer
i have never actually done a comparison so not sure on that but what can it hurt?as long as your not doing anything to harm the brass then why not?i have no intentions to stop doing so!the inside of the primer hole is very nasty on the new win cases i do.i just figure that if you chamfer the primer side why not do the powder side.a guy can set in front of the tv with a bag of brass and the tool and whip out alot in a short amount of time just dont be exsesive on the amount you do either side.
i have never actually done a comparison so not sure on that but what can it hurt?as long as your not doing anything to harm the brass then why not?i have no intentions to stop doing so!the inside of the primer hole is very nasty on the new win cases i do.i just figure that if you chamfer the primer side why not do the powder side.a guy can set in front of the tv with a bag of brass and the tool and whip out alot in a short amount of time just dont be exsesive on the amount you do either side.
