Hello guys new to the forum is there anybody running the RS 32 35mm scope if so can I get some feed back please
Night Vision Flir RS 32. 35mm
- Thread starter Top gunner 46
- Start date
They are a decent mid range thermal mono. The 320 core will find man sized targets easily out to 500 yards. That is detection not identification. Its roughly a 1X view through the unit so you can get some decent range out of it. They have a digital 2X but its quite grainy. Things I am not in love with, are the tiny Eyepiece and with ALL the PS and LS stuff the lack of a changeable battery! This has always made these a deal breaker for me. The argument that you just charge it up or "mine has never left me stranded" is anecdotal at best. If I am going to plunk down my hard earned money its going to have a battery I can change, PERIOD! the 5 mintue auto-shut down I thought was neat at first but in actual use I find it annoying as HELL. The lack of an ability to video out doesn't bug me but it does make a difference to some. Also and I am being nitpicky here, the whole tad pole shape of them has just never appealed to me either.
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Thanks guy . I got a chance to look through one last night at 50 yards you can make out deer good will try to get photos next time . If u start to zoom past 2x it does get gaining
Would you say it would be good for making a 100yd shot at a pig? (assuming we are talking about the RS32 35mm)
I^2- I think you're referring to the RS24, as it's 1x and no video out. The RS32 35mm is 2.25-9x and has video out according the the spec sheet on the flir site.
I^2- I think you're referring to the RS24, as it's 1x and no video out. The RS32 35mm is 2.25-9x and has video out according the the spec sheet on the flir site.
Yeah you could engage pigs easily at 100 yards.
Peter, I think your talking about the PS32. I maybe wrong though.
The FLIR RS32 with 35mm lens is a great thermal scope. The system has a 336x256 core. 9 degree FOV, and 1x,2x,4x electronic zoom. That is the part that confuses most people, they look at the description of the zoom capabilities being 1, 2, 4 and then they look at the FLIR stating its 2.25-9x digital zoom. The answer is, it's both, its just the matter of each intensification setting. Its as such
1x= 2.25 magnification
2x= 4.5 magnification
4x= 9 magnification
Pixelated images or "grainy" images are in any thermal system, if the digital magnification is cranked up. The difference is how prevalent the distortion or granulation is VS how high the resolution is. The higher the numbers, the better. Just like TV's (720 VS 1080).
Whupps I miss read! Yes I was talking about the mono not the new RS series or Rifle scopes. My Mistake!
Here is a video through the new FLIR RS32-35mm handheld, you will get the same FOV and detection with the RS32-35 thermal weapon scope....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF2HHrOyBjM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF2HHrOyBjM
The FLIR Tau 2 cores are the same and the lens is the same, however the RS scope has a video frame rate of 30fps and is ITAR controlled, while the 9fps of the PS32-35mm is not ITAR regulated for export.
Thanks for the feed back
Not a problem, will get some pics and video up later on this summer...
I'd figure for $4k+ per unit FLIR or one of the vendors would put out videos showing the capabilities of each unit. What I'd like to see is something like what was done for the W1000-9 (Raytheon W1000-9 thermal weapon sight testing, man detection - YouTube) to include what it looks like on the 2x zoom. While the PS32R is close (same 320 core) it's not the same.. It has a 13 degree FOV vs 16 or 9 for the 19mm/35mm, and I assume it's base magnification is 1x as it's not in the spec sheet, the 19/35mm being 1.25 and 2.25 respectively. I'd also think people that own an RS32 would be posting their great hunting adventures and I've yet to see any.. but, that's just nitpicking, isn't it?
Ok,
So the W1000 has a huge lens on it... However, while the video output you are looking at in the above video is pretty good... looking through the eye piece and using the unit is a whole different story.
I've had a W1000, and it was fine, but it's not like some of the equipment I've played with that's been hand receipted to me for eval.
There is no doubt that the massive lens on the W1000 allows for some serious detection, but the same can be said for a TVS-5 Gen II unit with the 155mm lens and scanning the night sky for aircraft.
If you want a good compact unit, the RS series is going to be a really decent bet.
I also suspect the reason you're not seeing videos and high res pictures is that as an ITAR controlled device... that's a huge no-no.
So the W1000 has a huge lens on it... However, while the video output you are looking at in the above video is pretty good... looking through the eye piece and using the unit is a whole different story.
I've had a W1000, and it was fine, but it's not like some of the equipment I've played with that's been hand receipted to me for eval.
There is no doubt that the massive lens on the W1000 allows for some serious detection, but the same can be said for a TVS-5 Gen II unit with the 155mm lens and scanning the night sky for aircraft.
If you want a good compact unit, the RS series is going to be a really decent bet.
I also suspect the reason you're not seeing videos and high res pictures is that as an ITAR controlled device... that's a huge no-no.
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I got one to use for spotting some pesky coyotes and hogs that have been raising a little trouble in the neighborhood.
While it's definitely cool as hell, I do have a few dislikes about it.
1-Scanning tree lines where I am most likely to spot these critters, it will frequently display the whole area as 'hot', effectively blinding me of the entire location. It will show up as all red,black or white depending on my chosen color palette. I've tried all the settings and frequent re-calibrations with very limited success. Supposedly there will be a free fix for this on FLIR's downloadable programs. I'm computer retarded and am having a bit of trouble with the downloadable programs
Living in a pretty hot climate during the summertime I suppose this may be expected. I don't know. It's my first thermal. I would however, expect the treeline to be cooled down enough by 5am to let me spot critters. It gets better, but not by a lot.
You can get a quick glimpse of this in Skypup's video where the feeder pole shows up hot and the tree next to it lights up briefly.
I certainly have no trouble spotting hogs at 100y in open meadows but they can be obscured by small bushes and rocks that show up hot as well(even in the wee hours of the morning)
2-Using the setting least affected by static things like trees and rocks, only small areas of the animals will show up as red hot. Usually just the face or small patches of the body.
It makes it a bit tricky to quickly ID what's a critter and what's just another rock.
3- the 9x magnification is about useless. It looks like someone tried to do a landscape portrait using 1980's Atari game technology. 5x power seems about as high as it's useful to ID in my opinion.
I bought mine with zero experience with thermal and I'm a bit disappointed with the whole blinded by trees deal. I'm hoping the update and cooler fall climates will help me like it more.
As for now, it's still pretty damn cool and has it's uses. Just not nearly as handy as I was expecting for something I spent nearly 5 racks on.
This is just my personal experiences as a first time thermal purchaser, so take it for what it's worth. Maybe I got a lemon, or perhaps I was expecting too much...... I'm just a computer retarded hillbilly so maybe some of you smart guys can clue me in on this.
Flame on
-Komishe
Thanks for the insight, Komishe.
How far away can you detect and identify varmints?
I'm really interested to find out if it is worth the extra coin to get the RS64x35mm/60mm over the RS32x35mm/60mm.
Does the 4x pixel count make that much difference?
I would be engaging targets out to ~200yd and want to be able to detect and identify before making a shot.
How far away can you detect and identify varmints?
I'm really interested to find out if it is worth the extra coin to get the RS64x35mm/60mm over the RS32x35mm/60mm.
Does the 4x pixel count make that much difference?
I would be engaging targets out to ~200yd and want to be able to detect and identify before making a shot.
I don't know if the extra costs would be worth it or not I had the same trouble with the trees as well but in the open worked good no pictures yet anybody out there get any. Thanks
Well any perceived lack of significant numbers of pictures and/or videos (notwithstanding SkyPup) makes me wonder something different. I am wondering just how many of the new RS units are "actually" out there? I have an order in for an RS-64 35mm and was told when I placed the ordered that there was a 4-8 week lead time AND I was number 9 on the list.
Maybe some of the gurus here like TNVC or I^2 or some of the other big dealers can speak to this? I would be curious to know from the dealers, roughly how many RS units they have had come in the door and subsequently out the door. Don't get me wrong, my order will stand...I will wait as long as I have to. I think the FLIR products are top of the line, and I think the RS line is as good as you can get...if you have any kind of budgetary constraints that is. Clearly if money is no object there are other options besides the RS line. But I still wonder how many RS units FLIR has gotten out.
Regards,
G.
Statistician
Why am I NOT surprised that someone who just purchased a thermal scope does not know how to use it?
It takes experience to utilize a thermal weapon scope, you don't just attach it and go marching off in to the woods killing all the coyotes and hogs everywhere......for one thing, you DO NOT look up into the sky where the temperature is -400* F and expect your thermal to not see that! Thermal emissivity of objects all differ and on a diurnal cycle 24/7 all day and all night long, you do not pick a point anywhere in that cycle and declare that your thermal is not working for you.....and expecting your thermal weapon scope to function at 9X and not be pixelated really is at best naive. Your thermal scope is working perfectly, however your expectations of how it would work for you are not based on experience, once you get a few months of use out of it, you will realize that NOTHING else would provide you with the awareness that a thermal scope does at night when used properly, unless you are SuperMan with X-ray vision.
Here is an easy to understand FLIR RS-64-35mm one shot hog kill video that I made, once you have a thermal scope, you have to LEARN how to use it, and that takes months of time in the field at night, it does NOT happen overnight:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpH6W8RjyYo
Here is some video through a PS-32R 336 core for comparision:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF2HHrOyBjM
It takes experience to utilize a thermal weapon scope, you don't just attach it and go marching off in to the woods killing all the coyotes and hogs everywhere......for one thing, you DO NOT look up into the sky where the temperature is -400* F and expect your thermal to not see that! Thermal emissivity of objects all differ and on a diurnal cycle 24/7 all day and all night long, you do not pick a point anywhere in that cycle and declare that your thermal is not working for you.....and expecting your thermal weapon scope to function at 9X and not be pixelated really is at best naive. Your thermal scope is working perfectly, however your expectations of how it would work for you are not based on experience, once you get a few months of use out of it, you will realize that NOTHING else would provide you with the awareness that a thermal scope does at night when used properly, unless you are SuperMan with X-ray vision.
Here is an easy to understand FLIR RS-64-35mm one shot hog kill video that I made, once you have a thermal scope, you have to LEARN how to use it, and that takes months of time in the field at night, it does NOT happen overnight:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpH6W8RjyYo
Here is some video through a PS-32R 336 core for comparision:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF2HHrOyBjM
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We're running the FLIR ThermoSight R-Series RS-32 (320x240, 2.25 - 9x)
We're eradicating hogs in our orange groves and it works perfect.
I agree with most on this thread that the 4x e-zoom is to grainy but the the 2x is money.
Most of our shots are taken from 75 yards out to 150 yards. We went with the lower cost 320x240 version because there is seldom a time when we have open fields with a clear view out past 300 yards without obstructions (grass / trees / shrubs). Up until recently, we've been using PVS-14's and PVS-24 clip on sights. These work great but there are times when the thermal kicks the I2 systems ass hands down.
Buck
We're eradicating hogs in our orange groves and it works perfect.
I agree with most on this thread that the 4x e-zoom is to grainy but the the 2x is money.
Most of our shots are taken from 75 yards out to 150 yards. We went with the lower cost 320x240 version because there is seldom a time when we have open fields with a clear view out past 300 yards without obstructions (grass / trees / shrubs). Up until recently, we've been using PVS-14's and PVS-24 clip on sights. These work great but there are times when the thermal kicks the I2 systems ass hands down.
Buck
What digital recorder are you running?
Piggy Piggy Taken last night in SW FL.
C&H Precision Weapons built .308 Rifle
McRees Precision G5 Stock w/ M4 buffer tube and MagPul Stock
Advanced Armament Co SDN-6 Silencer
FLIR RS-32 (320-240, 2.25 - 9x) 35mm lens
Hornady 168 gr A-Max
Buck
C&H Precision Weapons
Labelle FL
Authentic USMC M40A1 Builds
C&H Precision Weapons built .308 Rifle
McRees Precision G5 Stock w/ M4 buffer tube and MagPul Stock
Advanced Armament Co SDN-6 Silencer
FLIR RS-32 (320-240, 2.25 - 9x) 35mm lens
Hornady 168 gr A-Max
Buck
C&H Precision Weapons
Labelle FL
Authentic USMC M40A1 Builds
I use both the SPI mini DVR or the UNV MDVR, both are easy to use, the SPI is waterproof.
Pardon my lack of participation in this thread after my last posting.
Skypup thanks as always for the informative posts on all the cool NVG and thermal gear.
I quickly realized that my expectations of thermal viewers were naive and my intentions were to help others with a similar mindset as I had.
My post was simply meant to inform others like me who thought they would just slap it on and go marching off into the woods and kill everything in sight with predator vision
I am a fairly intelligent fellow, just never had much computer experience in this lifetime and have little patience with them.
I certainly have used mine at all hours through the evening straight on through until the early morning. As I posted, I do use it where we are getting 100+ degree temps in the day and mid 70's at night. Where I look for hogs is in the open meadows but they also have large boulders jutting up here and there to get baked in the hot sun all day.
So the "hot" rocks were to be expected and I learned that fairly quick as well.
I should have posted that my trouble viewing the treeline was at the BASE of the trees with absolutely no sky visible in the view of the thermal imager. I figured out not to look at anything with sky in the background pretty quick.
I do not understand why the base of the trees that have been in the shade all day will bug my thermal out at 4o'clock in the morning when everything is at about an even ambient temp as it's going to get(I thinK). These trees are at the bottom of a valley so there is absolutely no chance of picking up the sky in the viewer.
Again, thanks for all that you do to inform the rest of us.
-Komishe
Skypup thanks as always for the informative posts on all the cool NVG and thermal gear.
I quickly realized that my expectations of thermal viewers were naive and my intentions were to help others with a similar mindset as I had.
My post was simply meant to inform others like me who thought they would just slap it on and go marching off into the woods and kill everything in sight with predator vision
I am a fairly intelligent fellow, just never had much computer experience in this lifetime and have little patience with them.
I certainly have used mine at all hours through the evening straight on through until the early morning. As I posted, I do use it where we are getting 100+ degree temps in the day and mid 70's at night. Where I look for hogs is in the open meadows but they also have large boulders jutting up here and there to get baked in the hot sun all day.
So the "hot" rocks were to be expected and I learned that fairly quick as well.
I should have posted that my trouble viewing the treeline was at the BASE of the trees with absolutely no sky visible in the view of the thermal imager. I figured out not to look at anything with sky in the background pretty quick.
I do not understand why the base of the trees that have been in the shade all day will bug my thermal out at 4o'clock in the morning when everything is at about an even ambient temp as it's going to get(I thinK). These trees are at the bottom of a valley so there is absolutely no chance of picking up the sky in the viewer.
Again, thanks for all that you do to inform the rest of us.
-Komishe
No problem, I did not mean to insinuate that you don't know what you are doing, just that you need to take the time to learn what you are doing.
It takes some getting used to to interpolate all the various environmental situations that you will run into during night hunting thermal use throughout the year, there is no one good answer, sometimes are much better than others, some are perfect and some totally sux, but even when it totally sux, you are still better off than anything else out there....
It takes some getting used to to interpolate all the various environmental situations that you will run into during night hunting thermal use throughout the year, there is no one good answer, sometimes are much better than others, some are perfect and some totally sux, but even when it totally sux, you are still better off than anything else out there....
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Right on. I definitely figured that out on the first couple nights.
It certainly picks up things that are invisible using a PVS14 that's for sure.
My friend added me to his permit to rid his 600 acre ranch of hogs so I'm anticipating a fun filled fall
It certainly picks up things that are invisible using a PVS14 that's for sure.
My friend added me to his permit to rid his 600 acre ranch of hogs so I'm anticipating a fun filled fall
HaHa, that sounds great, good luck and have some fun packing all that bacon!
It has been in the FLIR PS catalog for the last four months, call TNVC, they are an authorized FLIR Channel Partner, to get one..
SkyPup, or anyone else, with experience with both would you suggest the ps 32r or rs 32. 35 if I were only going to have one. I'm more concerned with using it for detection purposes rather than as an actual scope which makes me lean towards the ps. I assume they both are close in detection distance from what I have seen. Would you have any preference of one over the other. Any thoughts would help. Thanks
here is a shot off my deckYou can record with the PS32R but not shoot with it, it is more ergonomic for hand scanning than the scope is. They both have the same range and resolution.
The PS-32R has just been released so best to call TNVC about one as they are a full channel FLIR distributor and that model is difficult to find. It is a powerful handheld scanner.....
I was wondering any suggestions on IR light for helmet a little off basin here but what else is everyone running
That issue was fixed with the FLIR firmware update three months ago, there is a new update out now as well that adds many features that endusers have been asking about.
The new FLIR RS64-60mm top end thermal scope has the new TAU 2.7 Image Enhancements built into the core, this is the latest version of TAU 2.7 firmware.
Also, there is a new FLIR RS-Series thermal scope upgrade enhancement available as of today, it has many excellent features added that owners have been asking for including.
1. Manual Flat Field Calibration Mode - you can now turn off the auto NUC and change it to manual NUC only, in addtion, since the TAU-2 core is shuttered, there is no need to cover the lens with the lens cover when performing a manual NUC. Manual FFC basically disables the auto calibration feature of the scope that normally occurs on a time/temp interval. In manual mode, the only time a cal happens is when the user does a press-and-release of the power button. A blue M appears on the display when in manual mode. Many people have asked for this capability and it is included in the new firmware upgrade.
2. User Presets - this is another valuable firmware upgrade that many users have asked for. The firmware upgrade provides three new user presets that store all scope settings including zero adjustment, reticle style/color, color palette, zoom level, etc. Just set it up the way you want it and save that setup!
It is ThermoSight R-Series Software Update 01.17.08
Personal Vision Resources
ENJOY!
Good to know! Mine has 25" of shift at 100 yards. I haven't upgraded though. I'll do it and report back.
Just install the latest firmware update listed above, it incorporates all previous updates in it as well.
Then rezero as it change the POI, after rezero you are GTG.
Then rezero as it change the POI, after rezero you are GTG.
