Gunsmithing Float lightweight barrel vs. pressure point.

wareagle700

wareagle700

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Jan 5, 2010
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#1
I have a question about my "precision" lightweight hunting rifle.

I have a Remington 700 Custom Shop Mountain Rifle chambered in .280 Remington. From Remington, it was an ADL model which was bedded in a B&C stock (no aluminum chassis). I replaced the stock with a B&C Alaskan II due to it having the aluminum chassis, BDL floorplate (purchased separately), and tad bit larger barrel channel to insure free floating. What I didn't know was the stock has pressure pads at the tip of the stock to support the barrel. My first though was to sand them off and float the barrel like normal but then I got to thinking. Have you had better accuracy/consistency with a pressure point in your stock with lightweight barrels or better luck just floating them?

Thanks.
 
#3
For day to day consistency, I think floating the barrel is better. Having the pressure points will help group size on a given day because is dampens out the fundamental vibration. But given temperature and other conditions, the stock can change ever so slightly and potentially change the point of impact.

Like xringaccuracy asks, "how does it shoot like it is?"
 
#5
I like to free float them. Here is my logic, which may or may not be correct. If it is a hunting rifle, it may be used under a wide variety of weather conditions, all which might cause things to expand, contract, etc. For example, a deer hunter might hunt in 90+ degree weather in South Carolina in August, or -10 degrees in Wisconsin in November. Last thing I want to worry about on a hunting rifle when the trophy of a lifetime steps out is whether or not a pressure point has more or less pressure on it today than it did last week.
 
#6
It's been my experience that a pressure point bedding tends to group better as stated above,but its temperamental over the long haul...BUT not always...
Like mentioned,try it before free floating...unfortunately,that's not the whole story...even though it may not shoot now,and I don't think it will,that doesn't mean pressure point bedding isn't the answer...the pad as it sits right now is not applying even pressure to your barrel...to truly know if a pad is the answer,you will need to remove the one that's there,free float the barrel and then add a pad...after bedding the receiver(if you choose to),and free floating the barrel,put a puddle of epoxy where the old pad used to be..let it set up,remove the barreled action,put a piece of tape across the new pad(perpendicular to barrel),now add another dab of epoxy to the exposed portion of the pad,let set and remove tape...It probably took me too long to explain that but now you have even pressure on your barrel...if you want a bit more pressure,do the tape one more time...so on and so forth...
 
#8
My take is that a pressure bedded rifle can shoot quite well when on the bench and all variables stay consistent. Only problem is that when you alter the way the forend is held or rested the pressure on the pressure point changes and the POI most likely changes. If rested on the tip of the forend the stock transfers the resting pressure 1:1 to the barrel. Might as well lay up the barrel on the resting spot.
My take is that one might get away with pressure bedding on a target rifle but not on a hunting or tactical rifle.

In my opinion the only reason why some factory rifles are pressure bedded is to centre the crooked stock and achieve an even barrel forend gap...voila...looks quality.
edi
 
#9
It depends mostly upon the length of barrel. I did a bunch of work on MNs, which typically have 28" long barrel. MN barrel is relatively "thin". If I shorten the barrel to 22" or less, I can free float it and get good consistency even when barrel gets hot. However, free floating longer than 22-23"" barrel is a real bad idea. For original 28" long barrel, just a couple of shots and group consistency goes to hell.
 
#10
You can't pressure bed fiberglass stocks. They will lose the pressure overtime. Only wood (preferably reinforced), laminated, or metal stocks can actually be pressure bedded.

Many aftermarket stocks have centering points at the front of the barrel channel. They are just to put the barrel in the middle of the channel and make it look nice so you feel good about your purchase. Get rid of them.

If a barrel shoots better with some pressure from the fore end, you've got other serious issues that are being dampened. Check your bedding. Even aluminum block stocks will shoot better bedded. Everytime.
 
#11
dinc said:
You can't pressure bed fiberglass stocks. They will lose the pressure overtime. Only wood (preferably reinforced), laminated, or metal stocks can actually be pressure bedded.

Many aftermarket stocks have centering points at the front of the barrel channel. They are just to put the barrel in the middle of the channel and make it look nice so you feel good about your purchase. Get rid of them.

If a barrel shoots better with some pressure from the fore end, you've got other serious issues that are being dampened. Check your bedding. Even aluminum block stocks will shoot better bedded. Everytime.
Click to expand...

I'd agree except to the fibreglass losing pressure over time. Well made fiberglass will hold pressure much better than wood, other wise one could not build aeroplanes out of it ...or springs for vans as in the Sprinter range from Mercedes that uses fibreglass leaf springs.
edi
 
#13
dinc said:
You can't pressure bed fiberglass stocks. They will lose the pressure overtime. Only wood (preferably reinforced), laminated, or metal stocks can actually be pressure bedded.

Many aftermarket stocks have centering points at the front of the barrel channel. They are just to put the barrel in the middle of the channel and make it look nice so you feel good about your purchase. Get rid of them.

If a barrel shoots better with some pressure from the fore end, you've got other serious issues that are being dampened. Check your bedding. Even aluminum block stocks will shoot better bedded. Everytime.
Click to expand...
I'm not discounting your knowledge... it may well be more than mine...
But though I choose to free float,all the time,I've seen pressure pads work well on settling down light weight rifles with a pencil barrel...
A wood stock barrel with a pad can change zero over night...erratically
A fiberglass stock,if it does,does so in gradual manner,over an extended period of time as the epoxy continues to cure/ dry out...
M1A's are not my bag,but I've watched friends shoot an entire season with a glass stocked match rifle,without altering original zero...never say never,but fiberglass stocks can be pressure point or full length bedded...
 
Last edited:
#14
After thinking about it, I decided to remove the pads and bed the first 1.5" in front of the recoil lug like normal. I still have not shot it but I just didn't like the thought of the barrel having contact at the tip of the forend. Now, its fully floated from the bedding forward. I feel pretty confident it will shoot well like this as it did before.

Thanks for all the helpful advice, I am working all weekend so I can't shoot anyway. That means I have to work on something. ;)



 
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