Gunsmithing Float or No Float???

JDB

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Minuteman
Oct 20, 2010
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DFW, Texas
I just dropped a 700 action and Lilja #3 barrel off with a smith in North TX to have it made into a 257 wby.

The Lilja #3 is about the size of a Remington factory magnum barrel.

I ordered a B&C sporter stock with the aluminum bedding block. The dealer I bought it form said it comes with the Remington pressure point in the forend and is therefore the barrel will not be floated. He claimed that it will shoot better with the pressure point....this seems to go against much of what I have come to learn.

I am going to skim bed the action. Should I go ahead and open up the barrel channel and float it?

Is there any justification to leave the pressure point in?
 
Re: Float or No Float???

I have found little research to show that floating would cause any loss of accuracy. I have found that if the stock touches it can cause loss. They would have to make the contact point adjustable in order for it to work with the various rifles. I would say shoot it, if it looks like you need to make a change float the whole barrel. Open up whatever you must to float it.
 
Re: Float or No Float???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JDB</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just dropped a 700 action and Lilja #3 barrel off with a smith in North TX to have it made into a 257 wby.

The Lilja #3 is about the size of a Remington factory magnum barrel.

I ordered a B&C sporter stock with the aluminum bedding block. The dealer I bought it form said it comes with the Remington pressure point in the forend and is therefore the barrel will not be floated. He claimed that it will shoot better with the pressure point....this seems to go against much of what I have come to learn.

I am going to skim bed the action. Should I go ahead and open up the barrel channel and float it?

Is there any justification to leave the pressure point in?

</div></div>

The contact point is there to provide vibration dampening on lighter weight more aggressivly tapered barrels, #2 and maybe a #3, depending on how close Dan's #3 is to the factory Rem countour that stock is intended to work with. I would follow your plan to skim bed, try it with the contact point, if the contact point is properly engaging the barrel. If it doesnt remove it, if it doesnt shoot well, remove it and float the barrel.
 
Re: Float or No Float???

My Rem 700 SPS had the pressure pad in the fore end when I got it. It shot great when the gun was supported <span style="text-decoration: underline">under the lug</span> however, when I shot off a bipod groups opened WAY up. Once I floated the barrel and re-enforced the fore end to keep it from flexing and contacting the barrel, it shot just as well off the bipod. I'm guessing the B&C will be quite a bit stiffer in the fore end than my SPS stock was, but food for thought.
 
Re: Float or No Float???

On a hunting rifle that pressure point is going to get water on it. Water expands when it freezes. Will it make a difference? Will it make a difference when you snug into your sling for a shot on that bull of a lifetime? One thing is for sure, if its floated, its at least consistent.
 
Re: Float or No Float???

Similar problem here. I solved it by opening up the barrel channel until, when holding the rifle and smacking the underside of the fore end, I could no longer feel or hear the fore end contact the barrel. I was not gentle in doing this, and it seems to work well.