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Floating the tang on Savage FCP-K ...

Snakum

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 21, 2010
629
0
61
Sandhills
I really like the Accustock due to light weight and stability. Very accurate for me. I have already widened the barrel channel and will be reshaping the grip to something closer to a McM, and was going to bed the tang. But I read somewhere that the tang should actually be <span style="font-style: italic">floated </span>rather than bedded on Savage 10 series.

Questions (because I don't want to take the action out to look closer just now):

If I relieve the area underneath the tang, won't I then have to pillar-bed the tang bolt? Or is there a shelf/block of material underneath that is making sufficient contact, precluding me from pulling down on it and bowing it? Or do I just torque to the Savage specs and ensure I can fit a card all the way around it? Won't the tang bolt work loose often this way?

If there is no need to put a pillar on that bolt, should I just relieve enough for it to clear from the end of the action back? Relieve a lot or a little?

Has anyone here relieved the tang and experienced changes for the better or worse afterward?

 
Re: Floating the tang on Savage FCP-K ...

How did you do this(I have already widened the barrel channel) with out this(because I don't want to take the action out to look closer just now)
There is no screw in the tang the action screws are forward of the trigger 2 of them
 
Re: Floating the tang on Savage FCP-K ...

Widened the barrel channel previously.

Nevermind. Took it apart and figured out what I needed to do. The tang float actually made a little bit of a difference in the average of five or six strings. Noticeable.