Gunsmithing FNH/Winchester 70 extractor cutter
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Re: FNH/Winchester 70 extractor cutter
If you have a lathe, might consider this:
Just use your lathe as a 2 axis horozontal mill.
Modify a tool holder to hold a barrel cylinder. Set your compound at the right angle. Mount an endmill in the spindle and walla! Easy way to cut xtractor grooves.
I used to do it his way a long time ago.
C.
If you have a lathe, might consider this:
Just use your lathe as a 2 axis horozontal mill.
Modify a tool holder to hold a barrel cylinder. Set your compound at the right angle. Mount an endmill in the spindle and walla! Easy way to cut xtractor grooves.
I used to do it his way a long time ago.
C.
Re: FNH/Winchester 70 extractor cutter
Guess I could do that on mill too. Just lay head down horizontal. I had read that it was better to have the slight curve that the special cutter gives it.
Thanks guys and I might hit you up for that cutter
Guess I could do that on mill too. Just lay head down horizontal. I had read that it was better to have the slight curve that the special cutter gives it.
Thanks guys and I might hit you up for that cutter
Re: FNH/Winchester 70 extractor cutter
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: field</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Guess I could do that on mill too. Just lay head down horizontal. I had read that it was better to have the slight curve that the special cutter gives it.
Thanks guys and I might hit you up for that cutter </div></div>
Without a keyway type cutter, I don't see how this could be a mill only operation. I guess you could hog most material with a 1/2" endmill, then decrease the corner radii with a 1/4" endmill, then perhaps file the radii from there.
I've seen various vintage M70s with the "curve" cut, and others without. I don't think it makes a lick of difference. The key is to:
1. Achieve necessary extractor clearance
2. Keep Casehead fully supported
Sounds cheesy, but it can actually be pretty nicely done with a hacksaw and file.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: field</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Guess I could do that on mill too. Just lay head down horizontal. I had read that it was better to have the slight curve that the special cutter gives it.
Thanks guys and I might hit you up for that cutter </div></div>
Without a keyway type cutter, I don't see how this could be a mill only operation. I guess you could hog most material with a 1/2" endmill, then decrease the corner radii with a 1/4" endmill, then perhaps file the radii from there.
I've seen various vintage M70s with the "curve" cut, and others without. I don't think it makes a lick of difference. The key is to:
1. Achieve necessary extractor clearance
2. Keep Casehead fully supported
Sounds cheesy, but it can actually be pretty nicely done with a hacksaw and file.
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