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Suppressors Form 1: Cup Shapes?

rg1911

Gunny Sergeant
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 24, 2012
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Laramie, Wyoming
I've been tracking down sources for all the parts for a Form 1 silencer. This has been a frustrating search.

Anyway, when I started looking at cups, I ran into cone shapes: 50-degree, 60-degree, 60-degree stepped, and radial. I remember reading that radials are better for a pistol silencer, but so far I haven't had any luck finding the benefits of the other shapes.

Does anyone know of a good source for a comparison of the shapes?

Thank you,
Richard
 
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I have built quite a few of these, it is pretty application specific. What is the intended use?
 
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^this. There are many ways to skin this cat
 
For supers best is to go with 45 and 50 degree cones, 60s at the end of the stack if you use them.

However, make sure the cones have a decent size shoulder to circulate the gas rather than it stack up.
Good examples are 50* super precision and Dino Precision cones.

Stepped cones work best as a helper cone, typically the second or third cone in the stack or second from the end. Typically used for supers, same angle and shoulder applies for these as the smooth cone.

Radials are good for subs and found in a lot of pistol cans.

There's more to it than that but it's something to get you started.
 
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I have built quite a few of these, it is pretty application specific. What is the intended use?
Currently thinking of a 1911 and .45ACP.

Assuming my 'smith can modify the barrel (he's done several odd projects for me), I would use it on a TT-33. That's just for the heck of it.

I need to find the rules for adding a can to an existing trust.
 
For supers best is to go with 45 and 50 degree cones, 60s at the end of the stack if you use them.

However, make sure the cones have a decent size shoulder to circulate the gas rather than it stack up.
Good examples are 50* super precision and Dino Precision cones.

Stepped cones work best as a helper cone, typically the second or third cone in the stack or second from the end. Typically used for supers, same angle and shoulder applies for these as the smooth cone.

Radials are good for subs and found in a lot of pistol cans.

There's more to it than that but it's something to get you started.

Do the Hybrid Steps do anything to ain in Subs (like a 300Blk Out Can)?
 
.45 caliber cans are tough. A big bore is naturally the hardest to suppress. I would keep things pretty simple and go with the proven radials, keeping the center bore as tight as your machining skills allow with no chance of baffle strike. I would clip the baffles small for caliber, .25 to .30" max. For this bore size, volume will pay off more than with smaller calibers. Build 1.5" OD if you can or larger, the smaller 1.375" stuff will not work well with 45's. 7" OAL with 6 baffles should get you close. You legally can't change it once it is built, but can rearrange the parts. Cut and size your internal baffle and blast chamber spacers with this in mind and be prepared for lots of position swapping with the spacers.
 
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.45 caliber cans are tough. A big bore is naturally the hardest to suppress. I would keep things pretty simple and go with the proven radials, keeping the center bore as tight as your machining skills allow with no chance of baffle strike. I would clip the baffles small for caliber, .25 to .30" max. For this bore size, volume will pay off more than with smaller calibers. Build 1.5" OD if you can or larger, the smaller 1.375" stuff will not work well with 45's. 7" OAL with 6 baffles should get you close. You legally can't change it once it is built, but can rearrange the parts. Cut and size your internal baffle and blast chamber spacers with this in mind and be prepared for lots of position swapping with the spacers.
1.5od, you'll be sighting through the can on a pistol, even with tall sights. 1.375 can be done. 7.5-8" in length, stuffed with as many radials or 60° cones, single clipped, spaced about 9/16" tip to tip. Tip of the 1st baffle ~1/4" from the end of your muzzle, or booster.