So, I'm toying with designs for an integral suppressor for an AR build. I'm fairly "green" when it comes to cans. I understand their purpose and function, and am a lightly skilled craftsman. Daily, I'm in trade work, but it does not involve metal working unless it's a roof or Aluminum trim. My goal is a 16" LOA barrel with a monocore design slipped into it. The barrels I use already have adjustable gas blocks incorporated into them, so I've got that part covered. Buffers, weights, springs, etc., got those parts covered too. Has anyone here done the form 1 thing (without a mag light or freeze plugs...lol)? Was that a monocore type design? How about an integral? I like designing and building, especially when it comes to my babies (guns, for those that may confuse babies with my kids, cause they're fun too), and I'm digging the suppressor thing as I want to get into night coyote hunting a little deeper. Thoughts, ideas that anyone is willing to share, or just discuss (not looking to break any laws) would be appreciated. Thanks fellas
Suppressors Form 1 integral 5.56/.223
- Thread starter AMGtuned
- Start date
Have a look at the Liberty Leonidas for concepts and go from there. If you want a 1 stamp gun it will have to have either the monocore or the tube welded to the barrel. Personally for 5.56 I have a 7" suppressor on a 10.5" barrel. Costs me an extra 200 dollars worth of stamps but that same suppressor fits on a bunch of other guns. Supersonic will always be loudish especially out of a semi auto anyways. I would recommend 300blk if you want an integral but there is still some impressive stuff being done for supers.
I have built 5 form 1 cans and am currently working on an integral 9mm bolt gun ie modern De Lisle carbine. Personally I prefer lathe work for concentricity on small parts vs deep drilling/monocore type designs but thats due to the tools I have at home mostly and not feeling like building a gun drilling setup. Do you have machine tools at your disposal lathe/mill?
I have built 5 form 1 cans and am currently working on an integral 9mm bolt gun ie modern De Lisle carbine. Personally I prefer lathe work for concentricity on small parts vs deep drilling/monocore type designs but thats due to the tools I have at home mostly and not feeling like building a gun drilling setup. Do you have machine tools at your disposal lathe/mill?
Do you own a lathe and Tig welder?
I do have lathe and tig at my disposal. I think internal volume will potentially be a challenge, trying to keep diameter and length down. Could load .223 subs, but goal is more of removing flash and loud bang, and being able to use a round that will drop coy dogs.
You need to look into turning 60 degree cone baffles on the lathe. I'd probably do a 10.5" barrel and a 6" tube that is 1.5" in diameter. You need to do some calculations with of hoop stress in a cylinder pressure vessel to try and get an idea of tube material/thickness required. There has been some data posted online regarding muzzle pressure of 5.56 rounds. For short barrels it is very high. For baffle material I would use inconel or at least 17-4PH stainless that is heat treated to a very high hardness. For mounting I would think that pinning and welding a taper mount muzzle brake onto the barrel and then tac welding the suppressor end cap to the muzzle brake would be a viable option. Regardless of what you do, this gun will likely still be very loud.
My advice would be to use the tax stamp money on buying a factory built suppressor that is rated for short barrel 5.56 and then run the AR as a pistol or as an SBR.
My advice would be to use the tax stamp money on buying a factory built suppressor that is rated for short barrel 5.56 and then run the AR as a pistol or as an SBR.
Plan was for barrel to be 10.5". The barrel design incorporates a sleeve around the barrel as it is. So my thought was to continue the sleeve for the 10.5" barrel, out to 16". Idea was for the core to slide down in, and thread to muzzle threads that are still on the end of the barrel, 6" down inside the tube. Once core was in, a threaded end cap would close it all off. Barrel sleeve is typically Aluminum, but can be had in Stainless or Titanium also. Would I need to add a blast chamber type port in the core? What would make this design louder than a direct thread on the same 10.5" barrel?
I don't think it would be louder than a direct thread. I have shot 10.5" AR's suppressed. They are loud no matter what.
Isnt the DSU a barrel, with a direct thread can pinned on? My plan is for barrel and core inside same sleeve. Hard to explain without divulging all the info I've gathered for this build. A big start is the barrel design, which I assure you, is nothing like anything TBAC produces.
Make sure your sleeve is permanently mounted to the barrel or it's a two stamp gun. Also I would try and get some ports going back towards the receiver to make use of that volume or you're not gaining any volume vs just threading on a direct thread.
Toying with tube size, as the sleeve that is over the barrel, is permanently attached, and filled with a medium surrounding the barrel. Trying to incorporate the 2 designs, into 1, 1 stamp piece. If I cant increase tube size, I'll have to go out in length, or shorten the barrel. I think 10.5 is about as short as I'd LIKE to go with a 5.56 barrel. I suppose an 18" LOA wouldnt be too bad, as my current 16" carbine has almost 2" of brake anyway.
You're pretty much stuck with a 1.5" OD or greater unless your sleeve is starting forward of your gas block. Then if your tube is fixed to your barrel to maintain the length you'll be welding the rear cap to the barrel, and the tube to the rear cap. This means you'll only get one shot to get it "right". I'm all for encouraging innovation but this might be one instance I gotta say it would be wise to work with an 02/07 so you can play with it. Or having an SBR/pistol lower around so you can take the tube on and off for a while. That way you can easily adjust gas, change medium etc.
Similar threads
