Forster FL die neck scratches

[vbogoev]

Hello,

New to reloading, I tried to fix my new lapua brass neck dents but I think something's wrong... After several cases the necks starting to have some vertical scratches inside and outside. I inspected the die with borescope and found some copper residue in neck-shoulder junction. Disassembled the die and cleaned it with Boretech copper remover and it looked good. I've cleaned also the expander ball. Several cases later again the neck starting to have more and more scratches. I triend to deburr and chamfer before and after the procedure - the result is the same. What I am doing wrong?

Cases: New Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor SRP
Press: Forster Co-Ax
Die: Brand new Forster Bench Rest full size die
Lube: Redding Dry Neck Lube (neck). Forster high pressure lube (body, no matter the body doesn't change)
Cal. 6.5 Creedmoor

I am attaching several images to see the exact problem... The case neck and die neck-shoulder junction.

Thanks.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Polish it with some 1500 or 2000 grit paper. I'd use a lanolin or imperial, or what I use is the good Ole rcbs pad and case lube. It works a lot better than the dry stuff, but looks like you need to polish your die

 

[Lawnboi]

Imperial dry not sticking to the annealed neck causeing friction. Try a different lube

 

[FNG1001]

Same setup as me, minus the lube. I use Hornady One Shot. Works well.

 

[straightshooter1]

Hello,

New to reloading, I tried to fix my new lapua brass neck dents but I think something's wrong... After several cases the necks starting to have some vertical scratches inside and outside. I inspected the die with borescope and found some copper residue in neck-shoulder junction. Disassembled the die and cleaned it with Boretech copper remover and it looked good. I've cleaned also the expander ball. Several cases later again the neck starting to have more and more scratches. I triend to deburr and chamfer before and after the procedure - the result is the same. What I am doing wrong?

Cases: New Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor SRP
Press: Forster Co-Ax
Die: Brand new Forster Bench Rest full size die
Lube: Redding Dry Neck Lube (neck). Forster high pressure lube (body, no matter the body doesn't change)
Cal. 6.5 Creedmoor

I am attaching several images to see the exact problem... The case neck and die neck-shoulder junction.

Thanks.

Not sure where you're at with your process as you didn't say how many firings we're looking at on that brass in the picture, and you didn't say how you're annealing nor how often you're annealing your brass nor how or if you're even cleaning your brass.

Based on what I see in the picture, it doesn't look like you're cleaning your brass (except maybe just wiping it down). The brass looks annealed and it doesn't look like it's been cleaned after annealing. After annealing, an oxidation layer is left on the surface (inside and out) and that layer is actually quite abrasive. It's best if you clean your brass after annealing rather than before annealing for this reason. Then, lubrication works better instead of it having to deal with that abrasive oxidation layer. Sometimes, when my brass is still pretty clean after firing, I'll anneal my cases and then just give the necks (along with the shoulder) two or three twists with -000- steel wool, which turns them shiny. The inside of the necks are taken care of with a couple strokes of a nylon bore brush Then I'll lube and size my cases.

Since you're using the expander ball, there could be an issue there where it needs some adjustment as it's pushing where is shouldn't (like at the wrong time) causing the abrasive annealed surfaces to grind harder. Note too, as mentioned above, dry lube doesn't stick to annealed surfaces very well, so you should probably use a different lube on the inside of the necks.

Bottom like is, I think your main issue here is you're cleaning and lubing procedure needs some modification.

 

[vbogoev]

Thanks for all replies.

@straightshooter1 I noted the cases are new, out of the box, thus 0 fires and 0 other manipulations made by me.

What I did is to polish the copper ring from the picture with Dremel and JB paste until it's gone. Then lubed the whole case with forster high pressure case lube including the neck outside and inside and suddenly the push that's needed to resize the neck dropped to zero. Resized 30 more cases without any problems, then cleaned and inspected the die with the borescope once again. Not a single trace from a copper.

The problem was indeed the redding dry neck lube... Thanks!

 

[StaveyIL]

I usually chuck a borebush in the drill press . Wrap it with a patch (or without). Coat the patch or brush with Iosso or jb . Then let it eat. As stated above I’ve had this happen when not running enough case line.