BTW if it has not been mentioned, I lightly oil the exterior of the stainless slide (left) and the exterior of the seating stem. I do NOT lube the oring...
- Thread starter PBWalsh
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BTW if it has not been mentioned, I lightly oil the exterior of the stainless slide (left) and the exterior of the seating stem. I do NOT lube the oring...
Since this thread brought up my problems with the Forster seating die I had. I decided to send the die back along with my F/L sizing die since it was gettin honed.
They called me today and said the seating stem they had given me in June 2018 was outdated and there was a new beefier “p30” stem. They said they would send it back with the new beffier stem. They confirmed again that they don’t harden the stems anymore, which they told me was actually a nitride process, because the stems would crack due to being brittle. We’ll see if this new stem holds up.
They called me today and said the seating stem they had given me in June 2018 was outdated and there was a new beefier “p30” stem. They said they would send it back with the new beffier stem. They confirmed again that they don’t harden the stems anymore, which they told me was actually a nitride process, because the stems would crack due to being brittle. We’ll see if this new stem holds up.
Please let us know the results … I’m currently looking at a new set of Forster dies myself.
Ok, currently in my Brownells cart I have the Hornady comparator with a .30 cal insert, Sinclair mandrel die and mandrel, L.E. wilson deburring tool with a power drill holder.
If I’m going further jnto the black hole of reloading equipment, what would y’all recommend for a full length sizing die? Or can I keep using my basic Lee Precision die?
A scale is another 3-4 weeks off.
If I’m going further jnto the black hole of reloading equipment, what would y’all recommend for a full length sizing die? Or can I keep using my basic Lee Precision die?
A scale is another 3-4 weeks off.
Redding type S full length set as mentioned here. Great website for reloading info.
You getting the carbide neck mandrel from Brownells? That's what I would suggest, rather than stainless.
The Hornady headspace gauge and bullet comparator kits are my most used tools. Headspace gauge to set dies up to bump shoulders desired amount, bullet comparator to get base to ojive and set up seating die. I also use Hornady OAL gauge with modified case to locate the lands. I could not be without these three tools. The only red tools I own.
http://panhandleprecision.com/a-reloading-tool-list-what-i-use-and-recommend/
You getting the carbide neck mandrel from Brownells? That's what I would suggest, rather than stainless.
The Hornady headspace gauge and bullet comparator kits are my most used tools. Headspace gauge to set dies up to bump shoulders desired amount, bullet comparator to get base to ojive and set up seating die. I also use Hornady OAL gauge with modified case to locate the lands. I could not be without these three tools. The only red tools I own.
http://panhandleprecision.com/a-reloading-tool-list-what-i-use-and-recommend/
Looked and considered the carbide dies, but at $49 I don’t know if I can justify it right now. Maybe in a month or so after I get my scale.
I’ll look into the headspace gauge and Redding sizers. Whats the deal with having a certain bump to your shoulder besides brass life?
I’ll look into the headspace gauge and Redding sizers. Whats the deal with having a certain bump to your shoulder besides brass life?
You should give me a call when you find time, I messaged you my number. I have the time and interest to help you out.
We were all once where you are now. My honest impression is your getting over your skis a little bit, you've got a ton of well-intentioned advice above here, some from me as well, but I think it would be helpful to tie it all together somehow before you start making purchases.
I've been Precision loading for several years now I got my first mandrels last week. There are several things you can do to control your SD and neck tension is top of the list, your die selection, brass, and technique will dictate a lot.
You get the time to give me a call, I'll try to offer you a more broad perspective as to what we're trying to achieve here. I think that may make it easy for you to go back and focus on individual aspects of your gear or technique.
Dan
NC
We were all once where you are now. My honest impression is your getting over your skis a little bit, you've got a ton of well-intentioned advice above here, some from me as well, but I think it would be helpful to tie it all together somehow before you start making purchases.
I've been Precision loading for several years now I got my first mandrels last week. There are several things you can do to control your SD and neck tension is top of the list, your die selection, brass, and technique will dictate a lot.
You get the time to give me a call, I'll try to offer you a more broad perspective as to what we're trying to achieve here. I think that may make it easy for you to go back and focus on individual aspects of your gear or technique.
Dan
NC
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Besides brass life? Because of brass life. Whats the point of putting in the effort to develop a load if it is going to be trash after 3-4 firings because you didnt bother to size appropriately? Treat your brass right and only full length size it minimally and 10 firings should be the minimum of your expectations. The hornady comparators allow you to take good consistent measurements so you can actually know whats going on with your brass sizing.
And the stainless mandrels are fine, just use lube inside the necks and youll have no problems.
The redding type s is a bushing full length die, you can choose a bushing that will avoid over sizing the necks. Again, for brass life.
But again consider why bother using a mandrel to open up the neck if you're not slightly over sizing it in the first place. One of many things you need to consider. If not using the mandrel the bushing should be designed to allow enough sizing of the neck without oversizing it, because the expander button in the die will open it back up. If it has to work too hard to do so, too much friction, you could possibly yank the shoulders out of concentricity.
Many folks slightly polish or even reduce the diameter of the expanding button to fine-tune this relationship. If you're using a mandrel you will want to size the neck small enough, so that the mandrel will open all cases up uniformly. You will also remove the expander button from your die, as it no longer serves a purpose.
As for bumping the shoulders yes brass life is a big variable, many say bump the shoulders 1-2 thou. But I choose three for various reasons, mainly it gives me a little extra insurance if the die loosens ever so slightly during resizing. for anyone that has resized 500 pieces at a time they understand that this can sometimes happen. But also it gives a little more functionality for shooting in dusty, rain, and inclement conditions. The most important thing about your shoulder bump as it allows 100% reliability in your weapon.
Folks used to think the tightest possible fit was best, and many neck sized. A more recent trend is to full length size every case. A famous benchrest shooter said he wanted his brass to fit in the chamber like a rat turd in a violin case. Many reloaders are less focused on minimal clearance and neck sizing now compared to the past. And are more in favor of every round being the same and chambering 100% of the time.
An extreme examples of overworking your brass and bumping the shoulders back too far, the case can stretch over time and lend itself toward a case head separation. this is a very potentially dangerous situation. So there are many reasons to be particular about how much you bump the shoulders. One of the reasons I use my Hornady headspace gauge so often.
Many folks slightly polish or even reduce the diameter of the expanding button to fine-tune this relationship. If you're using a mandrel you will want to size the neck small enough, so that the mandrel will open all cases up uniformly. You will also remove the expander button from your die, as it no longer serves a purpose.
As for bumping the shoulders yes brass life is a big variable, many say bump the shoulders 1-2 thou. But I choose three for various reasons, mainly it gives me a little extra insurance if the die loosens ever so slightly during resizing. for anyone that has resized 500 pieces at a time they understand that this can sometimes happen. But also it gives a little more functionality for shooting in dusty, rain, and inclement conditions. The most important thing about your shoulder bump as it allows 100% reliability in your weapon.
Folks used to think the tightest possible fit was best, and many neck sized. A more recent trend is to full length size every case. A famous benchrest shooter said he wanted his brass to fit in the chamber like a rat turd in a violin case. Many reloaders are less focused on minimal clearance and neck sizing now compared to the past. And are more in favor of every round being the same and chambering 100% of the time.
An extreme examples of overworking your brass and bumping the shoulders back too far, the case can stretch over time and lend itself toward a case head separation. this is a very potentially dangerous situation. So there are many reasons to be particular about how much you bump the shoulders. One of the reasons I use my Hornady headspace gauge so often.
Current cart on Brownells, it seems as if this investment will get me to where I need based on information from the Hide and the recommended Youtube channel called Panhandle Precision and his related website. Still need a Hornady comparator for measuring shoulder bump.
Right now, I can actually afford this. Any further suggestions as far as equipment?
Obviously I have a lot of software to input into my brain, but that must come with time.
Don’t WANT to buy it, but if I’m going down the rabbit hole I might as well go all in. I would like to be where the only limitation is ME and not my equipment. Its the same reason I bought an AIAT, even if my skill level is a Ruger American...
To me, its nice to be able to grow into excellent equipment than outpacing it. “Buy once cry once” is by FAR cheaper than the other way around. I wish I would have understood that years ago.
I would suggest the 21st century shooting tin mandrel instead of the sinclair ss or carbide. I have both (sinclair carbide version) and 21st cent. is much smoother and it's only $19 vs $49 for sinclair. I think you will be better off spending $9 more on the 21st cent. Tin version vs ss sinclair.
http://www.xxicsi.com/arbors-and-mandrels.html
The way that unit measures doesn't put any pressure on the powder column like it does in a traditional dispenser. It's simply not gonna do that. I have one, I'm guessing I got lucky because the damn thing has worked gangbusters for ten years or so. I've heard enough stories about problems though that I can't just dismiss it. But your issue isn't from the powder column. I know what you're talking about and the only mechanical dispenser that doesn't do this is the Dillon one, but it has it's own quirks.
I got a really nice baffle for a Hornady dispenser, an adj. dual baffle. I got it full choke and the damn dispenser STILL does it. It'll start out at 240gr. and be dispensing damn near 210 by the bottom. So I throw 230ish and let the Chargemaster finish it off (I'm afraid I'll burn the motor out throwing 240gr. --and it takes forever!).
I was interested in how this turned out for you. Though I knew Forster would square you away.
Well, since you switched to Lapua that mandrel is a damn good idea. VERY tight necks, .30 is worst. I use full length sizers for most stuff but do have a couple that were made to fit the rifle. If you're using a bolt gun then I'd probably try to ditch the full length sizer and just neck size. The body of the brass will be fire formed to your chamber, you don't wanna change that if the ammo is loaded specifically for that rifle. No need to. In an auto or for multiple rifles, you'll pretty much need the FL sizer.
Your Lee sizer is a FL sizer too, right? I'm not a fan of Lee, though I swear by their crimping dies and use 'em in all calibers. If it's a FL sizer and you're loading precision ammo for one rifle, I'd look at getting the neck sizer.
I use these Forster dies almost exclusively for all but .50, those had to be made. Though with some bulk ammo I still use RCBS sizing dies or just let the Dillon's autotrimmer deal with it and run it through a mandrel after.
Placed the Brownells order, along with a RCBS Chargemaster Lite. Should be here Friday. Only a few more tidbits left to aquire.
Forster actually didn’t ever call me back, I learned it myself through older posts here and elsewhere.
Forster actually didn’t ever call me back, I learned it myself through older posts here and elsewhere.
So last week was a beat down at work. Finally got them seated today. 140 ELD M and 130 RDF both seated fine. Maybe a faint ring on the ELD's that I accidentally seated too low 2.67". 41-44 grains of RL17 in a 260 (don't try that if you don't do research from some source other than me first!). No problema with seating. I may post the group results in the reloading thread tomorrow.
