i free floated the barrel on my marlin 925m, didnt see a huge difference, is it worth it on a rim fire?
freefloating worth it?
- Thread starter rackchaser71
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Re: freefloating worth it?
Free floating can still be a good idea on rimfires, but it won't necessarily be done the same as we would do on your typical center fire. Sme of this has to do with the way the barrel may be attached to the action, and the construction of the action. As an example on the 10/22 that is seems like everyone has, rather than bedding the action and floating the barrel, better results are likely to be found floating the action and bedding just a pad under a point on the barrel. The reciever on that particular rifle along with it's connection between the reciever and barrel don't seem to deal well with the stresses induced when hanging one of the heavier barrels off that reciever.
Free floating can still be a good idea on rimfires, but it won't necessarily be done the same as we would do on your typical center fire. Sme of this has to do with the way the barrel may be attached to the action, and the construction of the action. As an example on the 10/22 that is seems like everyone has, rather than bedding the action and floating the barrel, better results are likely to be found floating the action and bedding just a pad under a point on the barrel. The reciever on that particular rifle along with it's connection between the reciever and barrel don't seem to deal well with the stresses induced when hanging one of the heavier barrels off that reciever.
Re: freefloating worth it?
BS.
How's sub 1" @100yd with a 21 1/2" .920 barrel?
Unless you're trying some kind of stunt like actual benchrest competition with a 10/22, I feel like guys get WAY to concerned with theory. " A 10/22 needs a second action bolt to be free floated"."That aluminum receiver is way too flexy".
Interesting that the only problem the RRR models have is that fragile Barracuda stock. No barrel stock contact whatever more than about an inch and a half past the receiver.
I bed under the front of the receiver and maybe an inch of barrel just in front of the receiver.
LOTS of ways to skin this cat.
But shooting with a bipod or a sling and optical sight, the barrel needs to be free floated or POI will respond to any change in pressure.
YMMV
BS.
How's sub 1" @100yd with a 21 1/2" .920 barrel?
Unless you're trying some kind of stunt like actual benchrest competition with a 10/22, I feel like guys get WAY to concerned with theory. " A 10/22 needs a second action bolt to be free floated"."That aluminum receiver is way too flexy".
Interesting that the only problem the RRR models have is that fragile Barracuda stock. No barrel stock contact whatever more than about an inch and a half past the receiver.
I bed under the front of the receiver and maybe an inch of barrel just in front of the receiver.
LOTS of ways to skin this cat.
But shooting with a bipod or a sling and optical sight, the barrel needs to be free floated or POI will respond to any change in pressure.
YMMV
Re: freefloating worth it?
I free floated the barrel on my 77/22 and it made loads of difference. I do shoot from a bipod as well. I just bed the receiver and 1.5" of the barrel in front of the receiver.
I free floated the barrel on my 77/22 and it made loads of difference. I do shoot from a bipod as well. I just bed the receiver and 1.5" of the barrel in front of the receiver.
Re: freefloating worth it?
well my marlin is a bolt gun, i dont have a 10/22 so i was just wondering if it was worth it, im thinking about getting into some comp shooting with it, what are some other things i can do to improve its accuracy? do they make triggers for this gun or can i adjust this one? 925m .22mag
well my marlin is a bolt gun, i dont have a 10/22 so i was just wondering if it was worth it, im thinking about getting into some comp shooting with it, what are some other things i can do to improve its accuracy? do they make triggers for this gun or can i adjust this one? 925m .22mag
Re: freefloating worth it?
From what I understand about the 10/22, the oem action and barrel are mated with a V-block and bolts that draw it tight.
Aftermarket actions and barrels are avaliable that do not use the v-block system for fastening, opting for a threaded receiver and barrel instead. I think this method has better accuracy potential than the factory V-block configuration, and will free-float better. The other aspect to look at, certainly not applicable to all 10/22's, is the barrel band. On my 10/22 carbine a barrel band is present with a sling swivel. This will affect the harmonics and POI if any stress is induced on it. If you are going to free float, most if not all after-market barrels are .920" dia. and will require the removal of the barrel band...the oem stock will be an issue too so in the end run you have to get a new barrel, inlet or get a new stock, and like I mentioned with the v-block YMMV, I can't personally say whether the threaded steel actions would give you better accuracy but it sure seems to be the case...
From what I understand about the 10/22, the oem action and barrel are mated with a V-block and bolts that draw it tight.
Aftermarket actions and barrels are avaliable that do not use the v-block system for fastening, opting for a threaded receiver and barrel instead. I think this method has better accuracy potential than the factory V-block configuration, and will free-float better. The other aspect to look at, certainly not applicable to all 10/22's, is the barrel band. On my 10/22 carbine a barrel band is present with a sling swivel. This will affect the harmonics and POI if any stress is induced on it. If you are going to free float, most if not all after-market barrels are .920" dia. and will require the removal of the barrel band...the oem stock will be an issue too so in the end run you have to get a new barrel, inlet or get a new stock, and like I mentioned with the v-block YMMV, I can't personally say whether the threaded steel actions would give you better accuracy but it sure seems to be the case...
Re: freefloating worth it?
I remember seeing a thread a while back where a guy tried this with a 10/22. There was tremendous stress put on the reciever due to the weight of the barrel and how it's attached to the action. The barrel drooped and had to be supported.
edit: I found the thread I was talking about I think. This guy was actually bedding a part of the barrel and free floating the action. But since the action is fairly weak and that's what the scope mounts to, it would flex (when any kind of pressure was applied) and of course change the point of impact.
http://riflestocks.tripod.com/bedding.html
I remember seeing a thread a while back where a guy tried this with a 10/22. There was tremendous stress put on the reciever due to the weight of the barrel and how it's attached to the action. The barrel drooped and had to be supported.
edit: I found the thread I was talking about I think. This guy was actually bedding a part of the barrel and free floating the action. But since the action is fairly weak and that's what the scope mounts to, it would flex (when any kind of pressure was applied) and of course change the point of impact.
http://riflestocks.tripod.com/bedding.html
Re: freefloating worth it?
All 10/22 barrels droop. It's the nature of the V-block mounting system.
A variety of solutions are available, from a set screw on the V-block to compensate, threaded in barrels, Burris Zee rings with offset inserts, sloping rails.
I haven't built more than about ten, with shortened stock barrels, aftermarket tapers in a variety of lengths, and .920s from Clark (Douglas and Walther), KID, and Volquartsen.
I've not yet seen a bent receiver, despite the "tremendous stress" a free floated bull barrel (sometimes with up to a pound of additional muzzle weight)confers. One of these with the extra weight (not my build) still runs well with between 500K and 750K rounds since he got it WELL USED 20+ years ago.
Regarding bolt guns, which I see was the OP's area of interest, for free recoil on bags I know nothing. Bipod, or slung up, PG and fore end pressure will move POI around. It's probably less important for standing, but My Krico silhouette gun and 10/22 race guns are all floated.
Hangingchads has the right idea.
All 10/22 barrels droop. It's the nature of the V-block mounting system.
A variety of solutions are available, from a set screw on the V-block to compensate, threaded in barrels, Burris Zee rings with offset inserts, sloping rails.
I haven't built more than about ten, with shortened stock barrels, aftermarket tapers in a variety of lengths, and .920s from Clark (Douglas and Walther), KID, and Volquartsen.
I've not yet seen a bent receiver, despite the "tremendous stress" a free floated bull barrel (sometimes with up to a pound of additional muzzle weight)confers. One of these with the extra weight (not my build) still runs well with between 500K and 750K rounds since he got it WELL USED 20+ years ago.
Regarding bolt guns, which I see was the OP's area of interest, for free recoil on bags I know nothing. Bipod, or slung up, PG and fore end pressure will move POI around. It's probably less important for standing, but My Krico silhouette gun and 10/22 race guns are all floated.
Hangingchads has the right idea.
Re: freefloating worth it?
i like the idea of freefloating it, i have a thread going on about building a low budget .22 trainer, of which i shot a group before any stock / trigger modifications. i'm going to shoot another after the freefloat and compare the two before a trigger modification. hopefully this'll happen this weekend.
the original setup seemed to be not touching the stock at all, until put on a rest or bipod. if your 925 comes with the wood stock i would definately freefloat it.
definately get the rifle basix, it put my 822 marlin .22 mag into a completely higher level of shootability and was worth every penny.
i like the idea of freefloating it, i have a thread going on about building a low budget .22 trainer, of which i shot a group before any stock / trigger modifications. i'm going to shoot another after the freefloat and compare the two before a trigger modification. hopefully this'll happen this weekend.
the original setup seemed to be not touching the stock at all, until put on a rest or bipod. if your 925 comes with the wood stock i would definately freefloat it.
definately get the rifle basix, it put my 822 marlin .22 mag into a completely higher level of shootability and was worth every penny.
