Frustrated!

scorpion168

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 28, 2013
229
0
NE TX
I usually load Lapua for my .308 just using my Lee collet die. I'll admit, I like to tweak too much sometimes. Well, I bought a Redding Type S bushing neck sizer(71155). I also have an RCBS neck bushing die set(15506). AND I have another RCBS neck die.
I just loaded some Hornady and Fed loads to check a load, and early on, two were tight closing the bolt, and there is now one stuck in the chamber that needs to go forward just a little more, but won't. I barely got the bolt to back off. I need some good advice here. My rifle is a Savage 10 FCP, .308, bolt. I only load for this gun so my loads are gun-specific.
The first thing I'm gonna do is quit trying to use up my misc brass, and just stay with Lapua. Now, what should I use to size my brass? Is my Lee collet die good? Then neck size after? Please help. I'm tired of my too many die options and I'm learning to stop trying to tweak what worked well before, and right now I'm confused on what worked well before. I promise I'll pay attention and learn from this. Thanks.
 
My Lee collet dies work great in many calibers, but I do anneal (by hand-3-4 seconds with a tourch) and FLS about every 3-4 loadings. I use mostly new Lapua and Nossler brass. Need to campher and debur the Lapua, but Nossler does it for you. Never have had to trim the necks or mess with the primer pockets and just chuck the brass when the primer pockets get loose. Never had any case failures. Always wear safety glasses when reloading!
 
When set up properly it only "undoes" a minimal amount. It's not a negative thing. Just bumping the shoulder back so you can chamber the round and not have to problem you currently have.
 
Thanks. Be patient with me. I'm only asking because of what I think I know-does FL sizing "undo" what fire forming creates?

Yes, I find in my rifles it dosent make a difference. I use a redding body die to FL size and bump the shoulder back. I know in doing that I will never have a case that wont chamber due to the case/shoulder growing. I think people put to much emphasis on fire forming, unless its a wild cat that has to be. Also when trying hard to cam your bolt over and its hard to do so you can gall your lugs.

Neck Resizing (NK) vs. Full Length (FL) Resizing

Casey
 
Here is what I would do,

Pick up a Body die and a bump guage.

Set up the Redding with a specific bushing for the brass you use the most, be that Lapua, RP, HNDY etc. The one you would consider your match ammo.

Then set up the RCBS for all others, you can do some measuring and aim for 2 thousands of shoulder bump, just know that you will have to measure each time you change headstamp. Once the shoulder is bumped back enough, they should neck size fine for however many loads. You wont have to use the body die every time, just when the cartridges become difficult to load.

In the end, you have plenty of neck sizers, so a Body die will be most beneficial bring some of the brass back into spec (cartridge headspace). Lastly pay attention to case length, as that can cause issues as well.
 
You really need a head space comparator so you can measure your brass in order to set up the FL die correctly. For brass that is barely tight, measure head space with the comparator and then adjust the die to reduce the headspace .002". If still tight, repeat the process. Do this until you develop a head space spec for your chamber so you can keep tabs on your brass; neck size only if you like that until the measured headspace shows the brass is getting tight, at which point you need to FL size again. I don't know how you can size consistently without a comparator!
 
I like this tool.

RCBS Precision Mic 308 Winchester

Measure a fired case with it and then set a body die so it bumps the shoulder .001". Don't need to bump more than .001" in a bolt gun. Very easy to use and quite accurate. Setting the body die is easy. Close your press and run the die until it touches your shell plate then open and advance 1/4 turn. Then size a case and measure. Keep advancing a quarter turn until the shoulder is bumped .001" from the fired measurement. Very simple.
 
Hey, I have a precision mic. Now I gotta use the damn thing. Lol. And all the brass I'm using is fired from my gun. This is a good reason to keep good notes. I got really busy and loaded a few without notes, and now confusion. Thanks for the responses.
 
Here is what I would do,

Pick up a Body die and a bump guage.

Set up the Redding with a specific bushing for the brass you use the most, be that Lapua, RP, HNDY etc. The one you would consider your match ammo.

Then set up the RCBS for all others, you can do some measuring and aim for 2 thousands of shoulder bump, just know that you will have to measure each time you change headstamp. Once the shoulder is bumped back enough, they should neck size fine for however many loads. You wont have to use the body die every time, just when the cartridges become difficult to load.

In the end, you have plenty of neck sizers, so a Body die will be most beneficial bring some of the brass back into spec (cartridge headspace). Lastly pay attention to case length, as that can cause issues as well.

I just ordered the bushing FL die from Redding......I kind of hoped I would not need lots of bushings, but I am already thinking I know better. :eek:
 
You may need a few, my Lapua/168 amax measures .338 at the neck so I went with .003 of neck tension = .335 bushing. I emailed Redding and the tech rep said I could go with .002, but not lower as there is a chance of the bullet seating depth changing. With the .003 of tension I can not push the bullet in by pressing against my bench.

It works for me, I am not too worried about runout and all that jazz (at this time) just a little more consistency in the loads.

Good Luck
 
Anytime you take brass fired from a diff chamber and it wont feed, you need to measure the brass to see what part of the case is hanging up. If it's the base of the case, continuing to bump the shoulder back will just result in way oversized brass??