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Gunsmithing Frustrated

Twisted300Win MAG

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 16, 2012
439
16
39
Michigan
This is a long one sorry.

I normally build my own rifles. I started gathering parts to build a lighter hunting rifle for deer and elk in the mountains. My goal was a rifle that shot well and came in at 9lbs or under.

I started with a new Rem 700 la. I had just moved and hadn’t set up my lathe or Bridgeport. So I sent the action to have it tried, m16 extractor, bolt fluted, lug pinned and side bolt release. Reputable smith and the work was flawless. I ordered a name brand barrel .30 cal 1:10 twist #3 contour. By the time the barrel arrived I had my machines up and running. I chambered the barrel how I normally do. Through the headstock, indicated off the lands, floating reamer holder) 300WSM checked runout when finished and had right at 0.00015” runout at the end of the chamber, zero in the neck. Cool I’m pumped.

I assembled the barreled action and pillar bedded it in a manners EH1. Took it out broke the barrel in and began load work up. I tried 4 different powders and 5 different bullets. Noting would shoot consistent. After 500+ rounds trying to get a load that would shoot under an inch I gave up. I thought I had screwed something up and sent the whole rifle to the barrel manufacturer to see if by chance it was a flaw in the barrel. They looked everything over and decided to replace the barrel. They offeeed to chamber it in house and I agreed due to my work load at my day job.and my growing frustration with the rifle. I also asked if they’d instal a vais muzzle break while it was there. I was getting very close to a hunting trip deadline and wasn’t survid have time to finish the rifle myself.

Rifle comes back too close to my trip deadline for me to work up a load. So I left it until I got back. I am currently just over 400 rounds into this barrel and still the rifle will not shoot anything consistently. I’ve swapped scopes and changed stocks in the hopes to figure out what the hell is the problem. I’ve gotten loads that have ES of 11 FPS and SD of 4 FPS but on paper they are all over. I thought it may have been a bedding problem, so I changed stocks and renewed it. Same results. I’ve had other guys that are better shooters then be try it. Same results.

I’ve only built 8 complete rifles other then this one. All have shot amazingly right from the get go. I’m at a loss of what to try next. The barrel is a top tier company I find it hard to believe I got two bad barrels from them. The rifle is snappy on recoil, I’ve thought about changing muzzle breaks and see if it’s just a matter of muzzle jump. I’m lost. I shoot more then my fair share of heavy recoiling rifles so I’m confident in my shooting mechanics.

Any insight would help.
Thanks
Doneld
 
Norma brass in first barrel Winchester in second. All resized with Redding Stype trimmed, chamfered, flash hole deburred, primer pockets uniformed. Powder is hand tossed weighing first on an RCBS chargemaster 1500 then double checked on a RCBS 502 beam scale.
 
It sounds like you have chased everything except something in the receiver or bolt itself. But I doubt the action would cause your issue.

After reading all the information you have provided I am at a loss of suggestions. Frustrating indeed.
 
Have u tried factory ammo?

In the first barrel yes. Not on the second. That’s on my to do list. I’m also considering putting a pressure point on the front of the fore end of the stock. I don’t like the idea of that, however I’m about at my wits end. With the ES and SD numbers I’ve gotten out of a few of the loads I’d find it hard to believe it’s in the reloading. But i did order some factory ammo to shoot next weekend. I’m trying to only change one thing at a time so I can identify what actually helps. I’ve never had to work this hard to get a gun to shoot.
 
Are you dead set on 300WSM? I've heard they can be finicky. Maybe rechamber to 300PRC?

ETA, I don't know much about magnum calibers so I could be way off base on my statement. It's just what I've heard.
 
Are you dead set on 300WSM? I've heard they can be finicky. Maybe rechamber to 300PRC?

ETA, I don't know much about magnum calibers so I could be way off base on my statement. It's just what I've heard.

I’ve honestly thought about going to something els. 300PRC 300WIN 7Rem just trying to make this work. I have a lot wrapped up into it. I only chose it because I had the reamer gauges and the orn I did before this one shot Fucking awesome. Likes everything we put through it.
 
This happened to me about 6 years ago. 700 action, 2 top tier barrels and one of the best builders around. Ended up putting one of those same barrels on a different action and the rifle shot lights out. Don't know if that is your problem or not. 6.5 Creedmoor
 
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I haven't had a issue with accuracy on my 300WSM. I'm shooting Winchester 760 powder and my rifle shoots factory Federal 300 WSM with the 150GR nosler ballistic tip very good also.
 
I completely dismantled the rifle yesterday to go back over everything. I found one thing I think may be the source of my anguish. I pulled it all apart and remeasured everything. I won’t be able to shoot it until Saturday. If it fixes it I’ll post all of the details. Dave tooley gave me a few suggestions and I’m either over examining it or it’s the most obscure issue I’ve heard of.
 
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Ignore the action/barrel for now, let's focus on other things.



Did you open up the holes for mounting your optic or are they stock screw holes?

Did you use a stock recoil lug?

Did you install a one piece or two piece base?

Did you loctite everything in?

Did you use the same optic for all of these tests?

Did you do a full bed job on the action or did you just pillar bed the action?


At this point, I don't think the problem is the mechanical precision or inherent precision of the action and barrel.

Anytime I have a rifle that shoots badly, I take it down to the barreled action, and I look for screws not being secure, rails popping loose, optics not being firm and secure, improper or insufficient bedding for the caliber, etc.

My suggestion is to focus on the smaller things right now, it does not sound like you did anything wrong on the install/chambering.
 
Ignore the action/barrel for now, let's focus on other things.



Did you open up the holes for mounting your optic or are they stock screw holes?

Did you use a stock recoil lug?

Did you install a one piece or two piece base?

Did you loctite everything in?

Did you use the same optic for all of these tests?

Did you do a full bed job on the action or did you just pillar bed the action?


At this point, I don't think the problem is the mechanical precision or inherent precision of the action and barrel.

Anytime I have a rifle that shoots badly, I take it down to the barreled action, and I look for screws not being secure, rails popping loose, optics not being firm and secure, improper or insufficient bedding for the caliber, etc.

My suggestion is to focus on the smaller things right now, it does not sound like you did anything wrong on the install/chambering.

Full length bedding with pullers. Barrel fully floated. 2 piece direct mount ring locktited. Lapped the rings torqued to 25 in lbs to the action and Capps.

Screw holes where not opened up.

Brownells .250” recoil lug that I surface ground pearsonally. Also rebored the hole for the tenon after I ground it.

I’ve tried 3 different quality scopes.
Leupold vx6 3-18-44
Nikon black X1000 6-24-50
Sightron SIII 8-32-56

I have even went as far as having two friends shoot it to see if it was just me.

I have “yard sale” disassembled this thing several times to double check stuff.

I found two problems after getting suggestions from Mr Tooley.
1. The slot in the bottom of the action is tighter then all of my other rem700s by 0.005” making the trigger assembly tight going in. Not super tight but tighter then the other rifles I have.
2. I stuck a bore scope down the backside of the bolt body and found a small chunk of slag stuck to the inside of the bolt body near the firing pin hole. There is a light line on the firing pin itself where it seems to be lightly rubbing as it slides forward.

I have corrected these problems and will shoot it again this Saturday and hopefully it fixes my problem.
 
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I completely dismantled the rifle yesterday to go back over everything. I found one thing I think may be the source of my anguish. I pulled it all apart and remeasured everything. I won’t be able to shoot it until Saturday. If it fixes it I’ll post all of the details. Dave tooley gave me a few suggestions and I’m either over examining it or it’s the most obscure issue I’ve heard of.


Twisted,

Any further details on this problem Sir?
 
Yes and no.
I took the rifle to the range last Saturday with some premium factory ammo and shot it. Results where iffy. The groups were ok(7/8”-1 1/8”) not what I’d want from a rifle with as much money as I have into it. However there where groups. Before all I had was random shots with no consistent group. That is progress but not what I’d like.

I pulled the rifle back apart, removed the pullers that McMillan installed from the factory. I made new pillars and re bedded the stock just to ease my mind. I loaded up 20 Barnes LRXs and 20 Hornady ELD-ax’s with known powder charges. Headed back to the range in the morning. It this doesn’t work I will pull the barrel and start over with a different cartridge.
 
So, I took the rifle to the range yesterday. Loaded up 40 rounds with 20 200Gr LRX and 20 200Gr ELD-x. Using a proven load I went down .3grs and up .3grs to see if I got amywhere. The two lower charges shot around 1” but they grouped which is a step forward. With both bullets 61.0grs of RL 17 shoot goods the ELDs shot one group at 5/8” and one group that was awesome 1/2”ish ” I will do my normal ladder test this weekend and hopefully I have this problem fixed. Not sure but I think it was a host of little issues that added up to a shit sandwich. Either way I hop this is the end of frustrating myself with it.
Picture is 5shots
Thabks
Donald
 

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