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Gunsmithing Fully Bedded Action vs Only Pillars

SonoranPrecision

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Sep 12, 2019
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Phoenix, AZ
First some backstory. I have put together a hunting rifle that will be used in western states, where long shots are possible, and there can be significant differences in elevation and environmentals (I primarily hunt in AZ and CO).

I am using a Grayboe Phoenix on this particular rifle, so it came with pillars installed by the manufacturer.

That out of the way, I am primarily interested in the degree to which a fully bedded stock will resist shifting zero due to shock (riding in a truck or atv) and environmental changes, vs a stock that only has pillars installed.

I understand that a fully bedded rifle will be ideal, but for the sake of discussion, how much difference could be expected.

I’m not worried about the effects on accuracy or return to zero after removing the action from the stock.
 
I do it both ways. No way to tell for sure without testing it yourself. However, I've come to the conclusion that the action is just as important as the stock as when deciding whether to bed or not. I've got a couple remingtons that do better in bedded stocks, makes me think the actions are slightly bowed and rock slightly in the stock inlet. Also have some that shoot just fine in unbedded mcmillan and manners stocks. Personally on an out west hunting rifle thats going to get banged around a lot, I'd bed the recoil lug at a minimum. If your thinking you may be swapping stocks out you can open up the recoil lug pretty easy to fit another action.

One thing I"ve noticed that on stocks with a good skim bedding job, I can remove the BA from the stock and reassemble, as long as I torque to a specific value they have very little POI Shift. Unbedded stocks have more.
 
I just had 2 Rem actions bedded to McMillian stocks.

1: Smith said often he finds no need as the inletting is really good IF its inletted for what you are using. With aftermarket recoil lugs and M24 contours on these barreled actions, there was inlet work needed.
2: My time to get out and shoot LR is limited and involves some driving. So I was of the opinion that paying for a skim bed (top end guy doing the work) was a better investment than chasing crap around.

Price was fair, guy was right on time and a pleasure to deal with. those added in sure make the process much nicer too.
a jerk who doesnt stay on schedule would have had me second guessing.
finally getting out next week to do a little testing. 😁
 
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I have rifles bedded both ways. Zero difference that I can tell. I'm only at an elevation of 3350'. I shoot on my own range year around proovided there is no blizzard. COLD & HOT I see no difference.
 
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I've never found a difference. I did a rifle with full bedding a few years ago, shot a few good groups, then cut away part of the inlet and reshot. No measurable difference. I also tried (different gun) bedding 1" Infront of the lug, under the barrel.

Moved poi a touch, but same group size.

Now only bed around the pillars unless the customer specifically wants full bed and in front of lug.
Peace of mind is honestly the most important thing here. Being confident in your gear is important.
 
Full bedding will never hurt, but often help, even if just minimally. I fully bed all of my rifles. Took the time to learn to do it myself and enjoy it. Vs pillar bedding alone, you probably wont gain more than 1/4 moa, if that. Thats approx what my last bedding job gained
 
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My current opinion on bedding is "shooters who really know what they are doing benefit the most". By this I mean, if you have multiple groups on the one gun, and you are a 0.Xmoa shooter, and you know it and can repeat it, you will most likely benefit.

If you are a newer shooter, and have no real benchmark to compare to, it will be hard to quantify the benefit.

Put me in a F1 race car and I'll go faster than I could with my daily driver. Having 20+ years of driving experience does not make me remotely close to a F1 driver. Same goes for guns.
 
I would bed the front recoil lug at least for a hunting rifle. That way it always indexes in the same position if removed and reinstalled. I have seen significant improvement by just bedding recoil lugs over the years.
 
As mentioned before it’s hard to know what effect it will have on any given rifle until it’s been done. The two things I think give the best indication that it might help to bed are screw torque, and removal and reinstallation of the action. If you see noticeable shifts in poi or accuracy when making small torque changes there’s a good chance there’s some rocking or bowing taking place that bedding might take out. Likewise with removal from the stock. If it’s not coming back to the same poi there’s a good chance the inlet is a little loose and the action is not settling back into the same location each time.
 
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A properly done, stress-free bedding job can only help improve consistency- it can't be detrimental unless it's done incorrectly.

Want to see if the action is properly fitted to the stock/bedding block?
Lightly snug (20 or so in/lbs) the barreled action into the stock, put the stock in a padded vise and stick an indicator towards the end of the barrel.
Varying the torque on the action screws shouldn't change the postition of the barrel, if it does the action is being bent (stressed) and IMO, would benefit from being properly bedded. JMO
 
I would bed the front recoil lug at least for a hunting rifle. That way it always indexes in the same position if removed and reinstalled. I have seen significant improvement by just bedding recoil lugs over the years.
Interesting point. I bed around the recoil lug, and Infront of it, but trim out relief so it doesn't touch the barrel, but fully supports the recoil lug. I put one piece of celo / packing tape on the front and side of the recoil lug, razor blade so it's super clean, then bed. It aids in the end user pulling the action out without having to force it. No accuracy difference. I may need to test the "consistent poi" idea. Next time I do some bedding I'll redo one of my guns and see what's up.