Eh. Sort of. But not to the degree you're implying.
It's fairly easy to clean loctite out of a female thread with a tap, as long as the tap isn't oversized. Obviously, pay attention to what you have, but turning a sharp tap in by hand can generally do the job without causing an issue or removing steel.
Also, most of the alignment of a suppressor is accomplished by a shoulder perpendicular and concentric (if it's tapered) to the bore, and threads concentric and parallel to the bore. Not so much in tight tolerances, when the threads are tightened together. The tight tolerances do make a difference if things become loose, but if everything is properly lubricated* and tightened, you can get away with significantly looser tolerances than industry standard specs and still have excellent suppressor alignment. While I'd always recommend keeping those thread tolerances tight, deviating from that isn't generally a big issue unless alignment of the threads is compromised as well. IME.
I've got a couple suppressors of my own with significantly oversized threads that have never had alignment issues. For example, my old Gemtech Outback II - if I thread a barrel matched to that can to what would be considered class 3 tolerances, the barrel threads end up so oversized no other 1/2-28 suppressor I've tried will fit on it, and even a lot of thread protectors won't fit. So naturally, that can is pretty loose on a "correct" 1/2-28 barrel thread, but it's fine; alignment is still great because threads are tapered and self centering when tightened.
*Liquid Loctite products do act as a thread lubricant during initial assembly, so that doesn't just mean oil or anti sieze, etc.
chase threads with a tap or die is what the local gunsmif does.
