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Garand ammo?

TheBigCountry

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  • Dec 9, 2013
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    I’m getting ready to send in the paperwork for a Service Grade Garand from the CMP. I’ve wanted one of these bad boys for a longggg time.

    My question for the garand gurus is, what type of factory ammo is safe to run in them? I’ve been looking, and with the ammo shortage or whatever it’s called , I’m a little worried.

    Thanks in advance.
     
    Thanks for the replies. Is PPU considered “good” for these rifles?
     
    I’m getting ready to send in the paperwork for a Service Grade Garand from the CMP. I’ve wanted one of these bad boys for a longggg time.

    My question for the garand gurus is, what type of factory ammo is safe to run in them? I’ve been looking, and with the ammo shortage or whatever it’s called , I’m a little worried.

    Thanks in advance.


    Lots of Garand ammo available in the PX section at the CMP forums.....it wont be cheap though.....but its available.
     
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    What about the 308 Garand's , the 308 is a bit hotter pressure wise than the 30-06.

    What was the difference between the two?
     
    Get one of these
    20210324_220826.jpg
    and shoot what ever ammo you want.
     
    I can say first hand the S&B M1-specific ammo is good stuff. I won my first match with it through my M1, though I think that was mostly just luck and a good spotting scope on my part. I wanna add that if you're gonna be reloading it, that was a pain in the ass. Something about the inside of the rim was a little off, I had to karate chop 9/10 pieces of brass out of the shell holder, and I tried 3 different holders. You may have better luck though. Happy shooting.
     
    I can say first hand the S&B M1-specific ammo is good stuff. I won my first match with it through my M1, though I think that was mostly just luck and a good spotting scope on my part. I wanna add that if you're gonna be reloading it, that was a pain in the ass. Something about the inside of the rim was a little off, I had to karate chop 9/10 pieces of brass out of the shell holder, and I tried 3 different holders. You may have better luck though. Happy shooting.

    That's a very specific problem to the type and name brand of brass.
    Real American LC ball brass does not have this problem.

    Using a Lee auto prime w ppu and S&B brass, I had to use a #3 shell holder (whatever that is for), instead of the usual #2 that works for all my other 308 and 3006 brass.

    The problem with some of the foreign brass is the extractor groove cut. It's fairly easy to modify a shell holder with a dremel, once you recognize where the problem is, on the brass case.

    Otherwise, stay with American brass, and use 4064 or 4895 with 150's, 168's, or 175's. Made for Garand life.
     
    Studies have been done recently that debunk the "no powder slower than 4064" rule about these rifles. I'd still avoid super heavy pills like 190s or 200s. Factory 150Gr Soft Points should be OK.

    Where are you? I could spare some real M1 ammo M2 Ball) for you if we can work out logistics.
     
    Paperwork is in the mail for a Service Grade. For all those replying about loads and whatnot, I don’t reload, yet, but will keep that data on hand for when I finally get into it. Hopefully that will be as soon as this “shortage” gets back to somewhat normal, but that’s will be who knows when.
     
    I've got a couple cans of Korean 30-06 (PS-81) for my get around to it one of these days Garand projects. Yay or nay on shooting that?
     
    IF you can find Greek m2 delinked ammo it shoots great in the old girl
    CMP stock is long gone a couple years back
    They do sell the S&B now
    I load anything from 110 for soft loads or 155 and 168’s
    With 46.5 gr of Imr 4895 or H4895
    The deal with ammo is we don’t want it hot that it bends the op rod

    Enjoy the best battle implement ever devised and may all your bad shots be 10’s

    You will find much more info at the CMP forums site
     
    I've got a couple cans of Korean 30-06 (PS-81) for my get around to it one of these days Garand projects. Yay or nay on shooting that?
    I've always avoided it myself.
    Some is corrosive and some have cases that seem to have not been properly annealed and can rupture in the head area, or both. Headstamps to avoid are PS, TK and TA.
    Screenshot_20210326-214928_Chrome.jpg
    20210326_215124.jpg

    I tend to stick to U.S., Greek or Austrian stuff.
    Others opinions may vary...
     
    The stuff thru the CMP was never offered (that I saw) as "Greek delinked" - just in the green spam cans of bandoliered and boxed. Delinked with the 1968 LC stuff sold in brown CMP boxes inside green flip top cans.
     
    We bought thousands of rounds is plastic bags loose in 30 cal cans from CMP store at Camp Perry over the years
    HXP headstamp from many different year stamp that was all delinked and had the link marks on the cases
    I’m still reloading those cases
     

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    Sorry, not to hijack the thread (well I guess I'm sort of hijacking it). I just got my CMP Garand a few days ago (to the OP it was about 5 months start to finish). I have some Berger 215gr Hybrid's I was going to load in Nosler brass with Hodgdon 100V (seems like starting around 48.7gr would be about right). I'm getting the impression from this thread that may not be the best idea. Thoughts?

    P.s. I have Varget as well.
     
    Is cmp shipping ammo?

    The store at talladega has 167 match recently. Pretty expensive, especially if you're not reusing the brass (lapua). Haven't seen ball lately. I believe both are loaded by creedmoor sports (anniston, al).
     
    Sorry, not to hijack the thread (well I guess I'm sort of hijacking it). I just got my CMP Garand a few days ago (to the OP it was about 5 months start to finish). I have some Berger 215gr Hybrid's I was going to load in Nosler brass with Hodgdon 100V (seems like starting around 48.7gr would be about right). I'm getting the impression from this thread that may not be the best idea. Thoughts?

    P.s. I have Varget as well.
    Save that for a bolt gun. Not the garand.
     
    Check. And thanks! Sounds like sticking with 150gr / 168gr and Varget or H4895 will be the ticket.
    Yes, those are perfect. 4064 is the classic. Just keep roughly to the pressure of M2 Ball and your Garand will run forever.
     
    As NineHotel said earlier, these have been studies showing that there are other powders besides 4064, 4895 that are safe to use.

    Quick load will help you determine the pressures pretty easy to stay with m2 ball pressures.

    But, for 45 years, I've stayed w 4064, and still got two built m1's running just fine.
     
    My M1 guru buddy did one of the studies; I forget who the other guru is that did the more extensive one. That said, moderate velocities and bullets close to the M2 Ball weight are your friends when it comes to M1s.
     
    I cant find it right now, it had to do with where the pressure wave peaked and dropped for the correct port pressure (at the end of the barrel), and was part of the Navy experiment with 308 garands and the adjustable gas plug shown in post 11.
    Pressure drop required similar to the ar platform drop for the bolt to unlock under lower pressures to prevent shearing the lugs.
     
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    Get LC brass. Use these known good M1 loads as guidelines. Start 2gr low and work up in .2gr increments:

    147 - 155 grain FMJ or HPBT bullets​

    IMR 3031 - 48.0 grains
    IMR 4895 - 49.0 grains
    IMR 4064 - 50.0 grains
    W748 - 48.0 grains
    AA2460 - 49.0 grains
    AA2520 - 51.0 grains
    AA2495 - 50.5 grains
    H4895 - 49.0 grains
    BLC-2 - 49.0 grains
    H335 - 49.0 grains
    RL-12 - 48.0 grains

    165/168 grain FMJ, HP or SP bullets​

    IMR 4895 - 47.0 grains
    IMR 4064 - 48.0 grains
    AA2520 - 47.5 grains
    AA2495 - 47.0 grains
    H4895 - 47.5 grains
    BLC-2 - 49.0 grains
    H335 - 47.0 grains
    RL-12 - 44.5 grains
     
    I've always avoided it myself.
    Some is corrosive and some have cases that seem to have not been properly annealed and can rupture in the head area, or both. Headstamps to avoid are PS, TK and TA.View attachment 7591313View attachment 7591314
    I tend to stick to U.S., Greek or Austrian stuff.
    Others opinions may vary...
    Thanks, any others with experience. Quick search shows some comments saying is/may be corrosive and many saying not, good ammo, etc. Have long forgotten the history of it but wouldn't have bought if I thought it was. Also have some Greek so at least I've got something to shoot if I ever get around to building.

    IMG_1014.jpg
    IMG_1015.jpg
    IMG_1018.JPG
     
    Corrosive is only an issue if you don't stay on top of it. I shot plenty of older Korean ammo through my M1 about a decade ago. Break it down, flush it with windex or soap water, or Hoppes... clean normally, oil, reassemble, check back in a few days.

    That said, HXP shot better, is better brass for reloading, and isn't corrosive. Easy button.
     
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    Thanks, any others with experience. Quick search shows some comments saying is/may be corrosive and many saying not, good ammo, etc. Have long forgotten the history of it but wouldn't have bought if I thought it was. Also have some Greek so at least I've got something to shoot if I ever get around to building.

    PS is supposedly non-corrosive, but why risk it? Just shoot it and clean as if it were. Soapy hot water cleans the KCl right out.
     
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    What about the 308 Garand's , the 308 is a bit hotter pressure wise than the 30-06.

    What was the difference between the two?
    For the .308 Garands, old or new, stick with ammo in the neighborhood of ball equivalents. You can load some 168 grain bullets but 175's, like M118LR, is a little hard on Op Rods. I ended up loading 150 grain Game Kings for mine. I don't shoot it across the course anymore. I recently picked up some 168's to recreate the late 60's load for mine.

    I'll look up load info for what I have, off the top of my head I'm around 44.2 or .4 of RL15 for the 150 GK.
     
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    Thanks, I can deal with it potentially being corrosive but would rather not have to. Case ruptures are more concerning though. Thought I'd accumulated a good supply of Garand ammo back when it was cheap but maybe not.
     
    Thanks, I can deal with it potentially being corrosive but would rather not have to. Case ruptures are more concerning though. Thought I'd accumulated a good supply of Garand ammo back when it was cheap but maybe not.
    Test a few and see if they're corrosive.
    Pull the bullet, dump the powder and fire the primer with the muzzle a half inch or so away from freshly ground spots on a mild steel plate, then let sit in a moist environment to see if rust forms.
    You could always transfer bullet and powder to new cases/primers.
    I used to do this with .303 ammo as a cure for hang fires.
     
    Thanks, I know how to test it but I'd probably still treat as corrosive just in case. I'll guilt a friend out of a case of LC match before I pull/transfer though!
     
    My Garand load is HDY 150gr FMJBT, commercial brass, WLR primer, and 48.0gr-50.0gr or less of IMR-4064. I set my seater to the same length as commercial ammo 3.340". As usual I must issue the standard disclaimer that since I have no control over the means and manner by which others may do their reloading; I cannot accept responsibility for problems associated with another's handloading product.

    Please note that military brass has about 1gr of powder's worth of less internal volume, and must be loaded with about that much less powder than commercial brass.

    To fill the time during this past Spring's Covid lockdown, I completed a project of loading up 1000+ M2 Ball cartridges in En-Block clips for my own personal use. No, I will not part with them. Not for any reason.

    M-2 Ball ammunition facts.

    Ammograrand coupon codes.

    My source for all things Garand. You will need En-Bloc clips. A must for the M-1 Garand shooter and competitor. The PPU Ammo is safe and the brass reloads well. If you can find any. Th Federal ammo that I use is the American Eagle 150gr FMJ.

    Warning; using ammunition that is not specifically marked for the rifle can and will eventually weaken and destroy the rifle's Operating rod. Nobody makes replacements, and the existing stock is damned expensive and gradually vanishing.

    PPU/Prvi-Partizan. Sellier and Bellot. Hornady. Winchester. Ammo Shortage notwithstanding...

    Proper, as issued, Lube. It should be applied in a thin, light sheen directly over wear marks (bare metal work on Parkerized surface. Keep all lube out of the chamber. Do not over tighten the gas cylinder plug. In USMC ITR we were issued these rifles, and the key idea was that it was lot better to have to retighten the plug to a reasonable torque periodically, than to crack the gas cylinder by over torquing. They are gradually becoming unobtanium.

    I maintain eight ceremonial Garands for my VFW Post. I have spent the last four years attempting to remove the last of the WD-40 gum buildup on them. I would never put WD-40 into any working mechanism. People always swear about WD-40, either for it, or at it.

    The proper way to set up windage is to place the rear sight at dead center, then shoot at a vertical line, moving the front sight left and right until the POI falls consistently on that line. Secure the front blade well.

    If you're not certain what you're doing, do not attempt to disassemble the rear sights; do serious research on the disassemble/reassemble first. Getting it wrong can ruin expensive rear sight parts.

    Learn about how the M-1 Garand Battle Sight adjustment is established. It is a generic (300yd) distance zero that works well enough for combat under nearly all rapid engagement conditions. All Garand training stressed holding aim on the oncoming belt buckle. USMC ITR training puts a premium on fast engagement.

    I was trained on the M-1 and M-14, and have been an AR Builder and competitor with all three rifles. I was issued the M-14 for my tour in 'Nam. the magazine capacity was an issue, but not a big one. Proper fire discipline was drilled into us.

    Hard to pick a favorite, but one thing's for sure; with my Garand, it will be a "cold, dead hands thing"

    Greg
     
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