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Gunsmithing Getting a new barrel, should i have the action trued?

Savage15

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Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 24, 2012
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New York
So here's my dilemma, I have a remington 700 in 7mm-08 and the barrel is shot. I have tried may different handloads and factory ammunition and the best groups are right around 2.5 MOA at 100 yards. I've decided to have a bartlein barrel put on it and was wondering If I should have the action trued by the gunsmith at the same time as the barrel is installed. How much better would a trued action make the shoot? Would the new barrel alone give me sub MOA accuracy?

All input is appreciated, Thanks
 
Get it trued, most smiths are hesitant to put a new barrel on and untrued 700 action. Yes it should shoot under MOA, IF you can shoot under a MOA, most guns are limited to potential accuary by the shooter and not the gun.
 
I think that most people's thoughts are: while you're having the rifle re-barreled, why not spend a little more to have the action trued while you've got it apart, which will also help you get the most out of your new barrel. Also, I think some gunsmiths will only re-barrel if they true the action.
 
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that's what i was thinking was why not just do it to make the gun as accurate as possible.
With my other Remington 700 i can print 1/3 MOA groups at a hundred and half MOA groups at 375 so I'm confident that it's the gun and not me.
 
I saw that Chad Dixon at Longrifles is setting up a CNC machine to true Remington 700s, making them easy to do in volume. I know you'll get good quality work, and suspect the price will be competitive...
 
I saw that Chad Dixon at Longrifles is setting up a CNC machine to true Remington 700s, making them easy to do in volume. I know you'll get good quality work, and suspect the price will be competitive...

Yeah he is going to be doing a group buy on action truing very soon it sounds like. If you can hold out for awhile and send it to him, you won't be disappointed. Maybe Chad will chime in as well..
 
If you are going to install a quality aftermarket barrel, don't skimp on anything that might decrease accuracy. You are already there, just do it.

Think of it this way: You are out hunting and miss a shot on a beautiful 5x5 mule deer. You think to yourself, could I have missed that because I did not true up the action? Then you take your rifle and club your buddy over the head and cause severe brain damage. You wind up in prison with a big dude that likes boys. You wake up with a size 7 poop chute.

Don't wake up with a size 7 poop chute. Get your action trued.
 
Thoughts:

There's Remington M700's in droves capable of shooting well under a half minute. Some are absolute tack drivers right out of the box.

How is that possible when there's an equal (greater?) number that are "minute of pringles can lid" at best when shot from 100 yards?

A broken clock is right twice a day. . .

The easiest way for me to describe this is with drag racing. I give this speech at least 5 times a week so it's well rehearsed.

If we want to hemorrhage money the way the pros do, lets go drag racing in an NHRA Pro Class. Your average competitive Pro Stock guy has around $180K+ tied up in the engine.

If your a true sicko you'll spend another 50-100K and buy camshafts by the chord and spend countless hours on the dyno looking for another 5 or 10 hp. Horsepower that anywhere else doesn't mean a damn thing. You'll never realize it on the street or even on a circle track.

But in a Pro class drag car where both drivers can catch a .405 light and have crew chiefs capable of setting up the clutches well and guessing the weather, you'll be giving everyone a nice view of your tail lights.

They'll never catch you.

The important thing here is that you first spent the $180K to get the 1350 horsepower to even be competitive. Anything less and you leave the car on the trailer. It's a waste of time.

Such is the same in precision gun making and your 1350hp is found with a premium grade barrel. Take your pick as there are several.

Once you have this it should be fitted by someone qualified/educated on how to thread a tennon and cut a chamber well.

The last "5 to 10" hp in a gun is with the accurizing, lapping, bedding, fiddling, etc.

Take the greatest bed job'd, trued receiver'd gun in the world and it'll be an absolute dawg if you have a lemon of a barrel on it.

The random fliers that are off call, the unexplaned elevation, ammunition sensitivity, wandering zeros, etc; these are the things that the little details like accurizing help mitigate.

If your on the fence consider what your free time is worth to you. Take into account the fuel, time away from family (unhappy spouse?), expense of ammunition, time off from work, match fees, hunting/guide fees, etc. . . Factor all this in and bounce off of whether or not your getting the most enjoyment from your hobby/passion.

Many consider the added expense of these kinds of services as a savings/investment because they have greater confidence/assurance that their rifle will provide more positive/reliable feedback when shooting.

I'm not trying to play salesman. It's a personal choice. We've barreled a whole lot of M700's with no peripheral machine work and the results have been overwhelmingly positive. Just know that there may be an unexplained random flier occassionally.

Hope this helps.

Homeward bound. We finally have nice weather!

C.