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Rifle Scopes Getting all of your adjustment

riverrat13

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 28, 2017
89
23
Newbern, TN
Want to start off by saying I am new to the long range shooting game and this question may be a silly one, but I searched the forum and cannot find the answer to this...

I am shooting a 6.5 CM with a 20 MOA Seekins mount and my scope has 32 Mils of adjustment. From my calculations this gives me 1,361.4 inches of adjustment at 1000 yards. Obviously I do not need all of this adjustment for a 6.5 CM at 1000 yards, but hypothetically lets say I was shooting another caliber, scope, and at another distance that I needed all of my adjustment.

With this setup, my zero at 200 yards is using 7.1 Mils of elevation adjustment. What steps can be taken to minimize the initial loss of adjustment?
 
You’ll need to make it up with either a base or mount.

It took you 20 moa to get all but 7.1 Mils of travel, so you’ll need another 20 moa that will leave you with all but about 1.3 mils out of your optic.

There’s different ways of going about it. Get a 40 moa base or mount like a spuhr, or get a 20 moa mount and put on top of a 20 moa rail.
 
First lose inches from your vocab. No need. Figure everything in mils as your scope is in mils.

As mentioned more base cant will put your internal elevation closer to bottom but with that said being completely bottomed isn't always good.

Is it a hunting rifle and that is why the 200 yard zero?
 
I did know that you can gain more travel with a base or mount, thats why I went with a 20 MOA scope mount.

How do you predict how much travel you will have remaining prior to setting up and zeroing the scope? For example, how do I know if a 40 MOA mount would max out my elevation adjustment and I wouldn't be able to get to zero at 200 yards? How much of an impact does ring height have on this?

I understand the concept of MOA and MIL being an angular measurement. I converted to inches to show how much elevation that equals in reference to bullet drop, which is usually referenced in inches.

This is not my hunting rifle, I just shoot this rifle for fun, however I do shoot out to 800+ yards. I am zeroed at 200 right now for load development.

Thanks for the responses!
 
You won;t know exactly as when you zero you use windage which can effect internal elevation. You can guess by looking at what the scope has for internal and go from there. Again don't try and bottom it out.

Bullet drop is only referenced in inches by factory boxes. Any program you use you use mils. People here know mils and MOA so no need to convert to inches to have to be converted back to MOA or mils.

Reason to zero at 100 is that anywhere you go from there will be up. From a 200 yard zero you need to dial below your zero to get on at 100. At 100 yard zero whether you are going in to 10 yards or out to 1000 you will be dialing up from the zero. Just something to think about.
 
Not saying you think this, but some people think that if they zero the rifle/scope at distances greater than 100yds 200+ that this will in return give them more elavation adjustment. It does not, your scope in conjunction with your base / mount is the only thing you can do to gain more elavation adjustment in a scope (unless you have periscope gizmo)
 
No understand that... I just grew up zeroing a rifle at 200 yards (old hunting rifles). Really no other reason than that. However it does make more sense to zero at 100 for this application, I plan to make that change next time I am at the range.
 
Another question... Does anyone know of a 34mm scope mount or rings that sits higher than 1.5''?

My scope is currently sitting in a seekins 20 MOA Scope Mount 1.45'' High and I am barely clearing my front AR-Style Full Length Rail. I was wanting to put on sunshade and flip caps, and I can not even get flip caps on it right now. With the 20 MOA cant I know I cant clear the sunshade as it sits now.