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Getting into PRS

SonoranPrecision

Sergeant of the Hide
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Sep 12, 2019
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Phoenix, AZ
So I’m looking for a little advise/guidance. I currently have a circa 1968 Remington 700 in 7mm magnum, standard barrel, stock, etc. My question is, would it be worth it have this rifle trued, rebarreled (6.5 prc, 260 rem., etc.?) and throw it in a chassis (and generally how much would all this cost?), or would it be better to sell it off and and start fresh with something else? I’m on a budget of around $1000-1500 to get the rifle done. I already have pretty decent glass. Thanks in advance for the insights.
 
sell it and start over.


bighorn origin/arc nucleus ($850) in a KRG bravo stock ($350), timney trigger ($150). get a prefit from xcaliber or similar (~$300-400)

you'll be around that budget - maybe a little more - but a lot happier.


also most everyone is moving away from the 6.5mm class bullets and going into 6mm. not that you can't - but just something else to look into. (6BR, 6 dasher, 6creed, etc)

are you a handloader? or going to be using factory ammo?
 
sell it and start over.


bighorn origin/arc nucleus ($850) in a KRG bravo stock ($350), timney trigger ($150). get a prefit from xcaliber or similar (~$300-400)

you'll be around that budget - maybe a little more - but a lot happier.


also most everyone is moving away from the 6.5mm class bullets and going into 6mm. not that you can't - but just something else to look into. (6BR, 6 dasher, 6creed, etc)

are you a handloader? or going to be using factory ammo?
This. But leave the 6mm in your purse and go 6.5 ?
 
sell it and start over.


bighorn origin/arc nucleus ($850) in a KRG bravo stock ($350), timney trigger ($150). get a prefit from xcaliber or similar (~$300-400)

you'll be around that budget - maybe a little more - but a lot happier.


also most everyone is moving away from the 6.5mm class bullets and going into 6mm. not that you can't - but just something else to look into. (6BR, 6 dasher, 6creed, etc)

are you a handloader? or going to be using factory ammo?


+1 to what hookedonbrass said. Sell it and start over. You could just buy a Tikka CTR 6.5CM and run that for a while. Down the road put it in a chassis. The CTR is under $1000 and will do fine to start. Many other good options out there for off the shelf rifles. You'll spend close to $1000 just having your remington trued and rebarreled, and it will still have a magnum bolt face.
 
sell it and start over.


bighorn origin/arc nucleus ($850) in a KRG bravo stock ($350), timney trigger ($150). get a prefit from xcaliber or similar (~$300-400)

you'll be around that budget - maybe a little more - but a lot happier.


also most everyone is moving away from the 6.5mm class bullets and going into 6mm. not that you can't - but just something else to look into. (6BR, 6 dasher, 6creed, etc)

are you a handloader? or going to be using factory ammo?
I am a reloader, but I’d like to stick with calibers that have some factory options. That way I can get some experience while simultaneously acquiring once fired brass. At least that’s how my mind has been seeing it.
 
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I don't think it's worth selling honestly, doubtful you'll get enough money to even pay for a single national level PRS match. Keep it for a hunting rifle and go buy an off the shelf rifle like a Bergara BMP / HMR, Tikka CTR, etc.
 
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+1 to what hookedonbrass said. Sell it and start over. You could just buy a Tikka CTR 6.5CM and run that for a while. Down the road put it in a chassis. The CTR is under $1000 and will do fine to start. Many other good options out there for off the shelf rifles. You'll spend close to $1000 just having your remington trued and rebarreled, and it will still have a magnum bolt face.
I was considering going that exact route at one point, but for ~1300 into a tikka with a chassis, I felt like a the extra couple hundred for more of a custom build would be well worth it.
 
10 years ago people would suggest you modify your 700, but over the last few years, so many excellent options have presented themselves in your price range, Id sell the 700 and go with a new rifle!
Tikka CTR has been mentioned, and is excellent.
There is also the Bergara HMR, and Ruger Precision Rifle. Both great options, and all of them are available in 6.5 Creedmoor, which I would suggest over any other caliber for anyone starting out in PRS. Simply due to its excellent balance of availability, performance, price, decent barrel life, low recoil, accurate factory ammo, plenty of data online about it, and it is more than possible to win a match with factory 6.5cm.

For the nitty gritty,
The Tikka CTR will have the smoothest bolt and imo, the best trigger of the three. However it will also have the heaviest bolt lift (70degree throw). Not hard to cock, just heavier than the others. Im nitpicking. Stock and chassis options are abundant.

Ruger RPR is great, but they recently started coating the bolt black and it made it a little "bindy", at least the one I tried in the store last week. My friend has one that was uncoated and its really smooth and absolutely will not bind up. Accessories are abundant but you are stuck with the chassis its in.

Bergara HMR is basically a trued Remington 700, ready to go from the factory and can use almost any 700 accesory out there. My dad has one, its a great rifle. You can use it in factory configuration until youre ready to buy a new stock/chassis or trigger or barrel etc...

Try all the rifles you can at a local store if possible! Or better yet, visit a local match and kindly ask to check out people's rigs! Thats how I found out what I liked best.

Edit: People are also mentioning getting a custom action. Also a great idea. If you already know what specs you want and dont want to "upgrade over time", go custom sooner rather than later. If you think you want to get something now, and upgrade components as you go along, then buy a factory rifle and change it as you please.
 
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By the time you spend the money to get a 700 trued, blueprinted, etc., you'll be over the price of most of the custom actions. Also with most of the customs, you can order prefit barrels from most gunsmiths.
Another option is keeping an eye on the PX for barreled actions.
 
The biggest issue is the magnum bolt face. For PRS magnum anything is overkill. So keep it for a hunting rifle or sell it but I wouldnt bother messing with swapping bolts to make the rifle something it isnt.
You dont need to true the action either, you can run a remage on a regular unadulterated 700 and still get great accuracy. You can get a bare 700 action for like 320 from grabagun. 475 for a threaded remage barrel nut and lug with go gauge, 150 for a timney or triggertech, 350 for a krgbravo. Comes to ~1300. Scope base can be had for 50, bipod can be had for 100, bringing you up to the 1500 limit you mentioned.
Take it to one of the matches around you and I bet there is someone with the tools to put it together there for you. At least you might meet someone who has them that you could use.

I wouldnt get it from PVA myself, not because of the quality but just because of the time lines and uncertainty of when youll actually get anything gout of them. They cut great barrels though.
 
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Keep the 7mm and start over. There are alot of great builds under 2k out there now for the PRS production division. I have a Masterpiece Arms BA PMR rifle which starts at 1999.00. I got mine in 6 Creed and it's an absolute laser. Barrel life will be pretty terrible but that's the trade off for PRS guns like 6 Creed, Dasher, etc.
 
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The biggest issue is the magnum bolt face. For PRS magnum anything is overkill. So keep it for a hunting rifle or sell it but I wouldnt bother messing with swapping bolts to make the rifle something it isnt.
You dont need to true the action either, you can run a remage on a regular unadulterated 700 and still get great accuracy.

I wouldnt get it from PVA myself, not because of the quality but just because of the time lines and uncertainty of when youll actually get anything gout of them. They cut great barrels though.
I know 6.5 prc shares the same bolt face, or is that on the excessive side for prs?
 
Don't buy anything just yet. Find out when the next club match is in your area and go visit it. Check out what people are running, talk to some people and make friends, maybe ask to get behind a couple different guns and see how it feels.

Some good people down there in the AZ matches, and they will be glad to help out and offer advice.

As far as what you need... short action, 6 or 6.5mm mag fed, with a decent trigger and a game-changer bag (or similar). Lots of ways to skin that cat. $1300-1500 is on the lower end for a PRS build, but some of the off the shelf options are a good starting point. Most everyone who shoots PRS eventually ends up getting one of the custom actions and building up a gun with components to suit their tastes.

I know 6.5 prc shares the same bolt face, or is that on the excessive side for prs?

Yes, anything magnum is excessive. 6mm's seem to dominate the field and the winners circle, but a standard 6.5 Creed or 6.5x47 will work fine too.
 
I know 6.5 prc shares the same bolt face, or is that on the excessive side for prs?
Yeah, unless youre in one of the few ELR prs matches. Most PRS matches are 1k yards and in, some sprinkle some 1300 yard stages in but most stuff is a lot closer so that magnum energy just goes to beating yourself up on targets that a creed is more than adequate for.

I like building my rifles in the remage method personally. Just personal satisfaction but buying a rpr or howa hcr bergarga hmr etc is not at all a bad idea and will get your foot in the door for cheaper. They clearly arent as refined as a nice custom but they also arent almost a grand for the action alone.
 
Personally, I would stay away from xcaliber. I haven't had good experiences with their barrels.

While I have not shot it for matches much recently, my 6.5x47 has over 3k on it and still shooting strong pushing 142SMK 2820 with H4350, which most people say is pushing it too far. Point being, it's very accurate and the barrel will last. Perhaps its worth noting that the barrel is a K&P
 
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I was considering going that exact route at one point, but for ~1300 into a tikka with a chassis, I felt like a the extra couple hundred for more of a custom build would be well worth it.

If you can get into a custom for a couple hundred more I would definitely go that route, but I'm not sure that you can. I think you are going to be somewhere around $2000 or more. If you can stretch your budget, or wait a bit and save more, that's what I would do. I think the Tikka is the best off the shelf, sub $1000 rifle you can get, but it's not the same as a custom. If you are already thinking custom, then just wait until you can afford that. You'll end up with one eventually anyway.
 
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I started out with a Remington 700 SPS varmint, Got it threaded for a JP Comp and placed it in a Magpul Hunter Stock with a Timney 510 trigger. This was before the RPR, Bergera, Tika,etc.. were available.
I now shoot an RPR in 6.5Cr, and Area 419 Brake.

An RPR, Bergera, etc.. will serve you well for a while. For most people, it will take many matches, 1 - 2 years before your own skill set will be developed enough to be limited by these rifles. You may not even like the PRS series after some competitions.

If you find out you do, you can then progress to custom rigs costing much more.
 
If you shop around you can usually find and RPR for 1200 brand new. This would leave some extra money for a bipod, mags, and gamechanger bag, and the few other incidentals you may need. They are no custom gun, but they do have a huge aftermarket, which will give you options down the road. While it is possible to piece a gun together, the RPR or the Bergara will get you on the range right away.

stay with the 6.5 creed as you will get much better barrel life than the 6 creed. these two calibers are your only real choices if you want a factory rifle with the option to purchase ammo off the shelf. If you want to tame the recoil of the 6.5 a little more, just put a bigger brake on the rifle or add some weight.

If you can swing up to 2K you can buy complete rifle from MPA, or get the Snipershide rifle from APO. Both of these look very nice at their price point, and should offer a little extra polish and fit and finish.
 
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My Tikka with an XLR Element and cut rifle barrel was 2k. It's a better route imo, but you need to find a gunsmith that does them. I know a couple here in Utah. Once again, this is just my opinion...
 
My Tikka with an XLR Element and cut rifle barrel was 2k. It's a better route imo, but you need to find a gunsmith that does them. I know a couple here in Utah. Once again, this is just my opinion...
Honestly, once I’m closer to actually buying something, I’ll check the PX. If there’s nothing there, then I’ll just go the factory tikka thrown in a chassis route. Shoot out the barrel/gain experience, then have it rebarreled with something better.
 
Ashbury is selling a rifle and stock for $750 as of today, use the other 750 and put it towards a Bushnell DMR2 from Cameraland NY those are going for $1k and that's a lot of scope for $1k.

Screenshot_20190927-143426_Chrome.jpg
 
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Ashbury is selling a rifle and stock for $750 as of today, use the other 750 and put it towards a Bushnell DMR2 from Cameraland NY those are going for $1k and that's a lot of scope for $1k.

View attachment 7154629
I’m familiar with cameralandny, I actually recently picked up a Bushnell LRTSi from, so I’m good on glass for now. That seems like a heck of a deal on the rifle though!
 
If you shop around you can usually find and RPR for 1200 brand new. This would leave some extra money for a bipod, mags, and gamechanger bag, and the few other incidentals you may need. They are no custom gun, but they do have a huge aftermarket, which will give you options down the road. While it is possible to piece a gun together, the RPR or the Bergara will get you on the range right away.

stay with the 6.5 creed as you will get much better barrel life than the 6 creed. these two calibers are your only real choices if you want a factory rifle with the option to purchase ammo off the shelf. If you want to tame the recoil of the 6.5 a little more, just put a bigger brake on the rifle or add some weight.

If you can swing up to 2K you can buy complete rifle from MPA, or get the Snipershide rifle from APO. Both of these look very nice at their price point, and should offer a little extra polish and fit and finish.
Shit, you can find a 308 or 6creed rpr for 800 last I saw. I’d do that and swap in a new premium prefit barrel if you’re cool making it a 1200 buck rpr.
 
A .223 is enough for PRS, except the long range prone stuff. Most is between 300 and 600. A magnum or long action is too much, and the recoil is a real disadvantage. I've run my .223 a couple times and it wasn't an issue, except the long bombs. My 6 handles it out to 1200 fine.

6.5mm or 6mm are the best, in a short action for PRS. 6mm has the least recoil and is the "go to" caliber. But, a 6.5 is just fine unless you feel the need to compete at the highest levels.
 
My Tikka with an XLR Element and cut rifle barrel was 2k. It's a better route imo, but you need to find a gunsmith that does them. I know a couple here in Utah. Once again, this is just my opinion...

Tikka is not a bad option, but at $2000 my choice would be a $850 Origin, $500 Proof prefit/nut, $150 Trigger Tech, $500 chassis or stock. That is an easy decision as well. You can pick up a lot of it in the PX.

Great barreled actions come up in the PX as well. Getting them at a discount is nice.
 
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The biggest issue is the magnum bolt face. For PRS magnum anything is overkill. So keep it for a hunting rifle or sell it but I wouldnt bother messing with swapping bolts to make the rifle something it isnt.
You dont need to true the action either, you can run a remage on a regular unadulterated 700 and still get great accuracy. You can get a bare 700 action for like 320 from grabagun. 475 for a threaded remage barrel nut and lug with go gauge, 150 for a timney or triggertech, 350 for a krgbravo. Comes to ~1300. Scope base can be had for 50, bipod can be had for 100, bringing you up to the 1500 limit you mentioned.
Take it to one of the matches around you and I bet there is someone with the tools to put it together there for you. At least you might meet someone who has them that you could use.

I wouldnt get it from PVA myself, not because of the quality but just because of the time lines and uncertainty of when youll actually get anything gout of them. They cut great barrels though.

Exactly. 300WM would have been at least in the realm (same bolt face so it could still be done). Ultimately it doesn’t matter if it’s got the word magnum in the cartridge name though.

Got to start somewhere, and like most things in life it’s a gradual upgrade with both skills and gear. A ~1 MOA rifle can win any PRS match. Native disadvantage there, sure. Unfortunately tolerances are not only mechanical, they are also financial so to speak.

It‘s an equation that one must balance based on desire and budget. There is a price point where the cost/benefit ratio is diminished, but it’s well beyond $1500 in the current market. Keep expectations in check, run a few matches and start a dedicated rifle build fund if you feel the option that @spife7980 and others have mentioned isn’t working for you.
 
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I will say that any decent 1moa rifle and a good bit of practice will do you much better than a $4000 custom build and no practice. I haven’t shot a lot of matches but the few I have shot had relatively big targets compared to what I expected. Get a rifle that will go where you aim it and then practice. .87 moa vs .2 moa is not going to matter at all when you are on the clock. What will matter is if you have practiced finding targets, building positions, and moving efficiently.
 
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Does anyone have any thoughts on the barreled actions that Deep South Tactical is doing? Blueprinted m700 action and Bartlein barrels?

I’ve been eyeballing those wondering if they’ll do one up in 300prc. Not for PRS but for 1K+.

As others have stated don’t worry too much about your 7mm mag. Something that shoots a solid MOA or better in 6.5CM will serve you well. A a trued 700 in a chassis would be a solid performer.

The weak link will be you.
 
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I hate to resurrect an old thread, but I wanted to thank everyone who offered up their advice and assistance, and wanted to show what I ended up doing. I went with a fully blueprinted Rem 700 action and a 24” Bartlein Heavy Palma barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor from Deep South Tactical. It’s sitting in a Grayboe Ridgeback stock, Timney Calvin Elite, Seekins base and rings, PVA brake, Bushnell LRTSi 3-12, and a Harris brms. It’s all zeroed, chrono’d, and doped for my first local prs match next weekend! Thanks again everyone!
 

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I hate to resurrect an old thread, but I wanted to thank everyone who offered up their advice and assistance, and wanted to show what I ended up doing. I went with a fully blueprinted Rem 700 action and a 24” Bartlein Heavy Palma barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor from Deep South Tactical. It’s sitting in a Grayboe Ridgeback stock, Timney Calvin Elite, Seekins base and rings, PVA brake, Bushnell LRTSi 3-12, and a Harris brms. It’s all zeroed, chrono’d, and doped for my first local prs match next weekend! Thanks again everyone!
Looks like a good starting rig, now go out and wear it out. Start with your local club matches and have fun.
 
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I hate to resurrect an old thread, but I wanted to thank everyone who offered up their advice and assistance, and wanted to show what I ended up doing. I went with a fully blueprinted Rem 700 action and a 24” Bartlein Heavy Palma barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor from Deep South Tactical. It’s sitting in a Grayboe Ridgeback stock, Timney Calvin Elite, Seekins base and rings, PVA brake, Bushnell LRTSi 3-12, and a Harris brms. It’s all zeroed, chrono’d, and doped for my first local prs match next weekend! Thanks again everyone!
Nice looking rig. Have fun with it.
 
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For those of you who were interested in how things would evolve, here you go.

TL3
Proof Research 6.5cm m24 contour
Triggertech Special
KRG whiskey 3 comp chassis
Vortex razor AMG 6-24x50
ARC M10 rings
Atlas CAL
PVA jet blast brake

View attachment 7283252
Nice. That will do the trick. Did you have the barrel spun up or is it a prefit?
 
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I decided to go the prefit route and see how it goes. I figured that was one of the biggest advantages that action.
I go pretty much exclusively prefit because I’m impatient and hate waiting for barrels. Where’d you get that one? I thought proof only had slim profiles? Or is it a smith prefit?
 
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I picked it up from Altus. They were down to just 26” m24/m40 profile in 6.5cm when I purchased the action, so I figured that would do the trick.

I’m hoping to have it serve double duty as an elk rifle by having a magnum bolt head and a 22” carbon barrel in 7saum or the like. Then swap out the aluminum hand guard for a polymer one and remove the spigot. That should drop the weight down to sub 10lbs.