Fieldcraft Ghillie Instructions

GhostRider45b

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Dec 26, 2009
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Arizona
First of all I like to say HI from AZ its my first post on this forum.

Ive been seaching tonight looking for Ghillie Suit Instructions, Can someone help please?

I fig this has been on here before but I cant find it
Thanks
 

HH4

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Jan 27, 2008
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Re: Ghillie Instructions

There are a few different styles of ghillie you can make but basically you will either end up with one that opens straight down the middle or has zippers on the sides, at least for the top. For a basic ghillie start with a set of cammies that are 1 or 2 sizes bigger than you would normally wear and a boonie cover, you will also need quality netting, jute, dye, canvas, needle, thread and shoe goo. I always reccommend starting light then going darker (you can always darken your cammo making it lighter is not as easy), since your in AZ definitely start with some desert cammies as your base. Since it is kind of hard to explain this next part I reccommend that you put your cammies on and crawl around (skull drag, low crawl)in them so you can figure out where exactly you will need to put your canvas (canvas will go in high wear/friction areas). Before you sew in your canvas you will need to decide whether you want a front opening design or a side zip design. If making a suit that opens down the middle leave the middle open (a good option for a middle opening design is removing all buttons and attaching a full length piece of industrial strength velcro by sewing and shoe goo), but put canvas on the front leaving the middle open. For a side zip you can make what is basically a skid plate on the front of your ghillie out of canvas. On a side zip design your ghillie will have a pull over top with zippers along the sides. Once you know which design you are going with the first step would be attaching your canvas I suggest that you both shoe goo and sew your canvas in place for added durability. After your canvas is attached you may want to cut some sections out of the back of your top and replace them with mesh to work as vents, your suit will get very hot. Then you will add your netting by first sewing it in then putting shoe goo over the stitches, before the shoe goo dries throw some dirt on it or spray paint it otherwise it will be very shiny. After all this is done and you have canvas on the front of your suit (fore arms, legs, torso) and netting on the back (back, shoulders, back of legs) you will then begin attaching jute. Before I go any further I want to talk about the viel which is made using your boonie cover, it should be completely covered in netting attached in the manner which I have previously described, however the netting on the front should extend around 12" or so (the point is that your hat/viel should have netting connected to it which is long enough to go forward and completely cover the objective lens of your scope.) In order to see through this you will do what is called "burning a window". So once you have dyed all your jute and it is dry and ready to attach you should have lengths that are about 12" or so then fold them in the middle so you make a bite as you would do with rope, then pass the bite through the loop on your netting and put the ends of the bite back through the bite of jute you have made(your netting should be around 2" sqare, try not to go smaller than this). This will attach the jute very securely without making it a permanent part of your suit, it is best to attach it this way so that you can easily change out your jute depending on your environment. In order to attach vegetation to your ghillie you should also attach some 550/para cord to your netting then burn the ends to prevent fraying (the 550/para cord is what you will use to tie in vegetation). Another feature that you will find useful if you do a lot of crawling is adding lengths of rope on each side of the cuffs of your bottoms and tying them around the bottom of your boots to keep your pant legs from riding up when crawling. Well I could really go into a lot more detail but I will leave it at this for now and make updates as questions arise. I am sure that other members will add on to this and describe other methods which have worked for them. Please PM me with any specific questions.
 

SIERRAWHISKEY

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Feb 25, 2006
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Re: Ghillie Instructions

Here's a few pic's to help you along with what VC was saying.

Note: these's suits still need to be trimed and pigrolled for breakin




newghiiliepics-5.jpg

newghiiliepics-6.jpg
M-40-4.jpg

M-40-3.jpg

ghillies-6.jpg

newghiiliepics-2.jpg

allpics2009-194.jpg

allpics2009-201.jpg

newghiiliepics-1.jpg

ATS_013.jpg
 

257speed

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Dec 2, 2007
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Re: Ghillie Instructions

Sierrawhiskey, what are you using on the edges of the net. Looks like edgetape, but almost looks adhesive???
 

SIERRAWHISKEY

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

257 its strips of canvas that I will glue down to hold the netting in place before I sew it all up.The knotless netting is some good stuff to work with,I've got some 1 3/4 coming and I hope it will be the standard netting I will use.

I need to post some new pic's of material I'm using,makes the new suits look almost like they were built by a professional....HEHE!!!
 

Tburkes

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

Here's some pics of a ghillie I just finished for a customer. It was built to his specs and I like the way it came out. NO, I'm not going to get into making ghillies full time. No one should bitch about the prices that are being charged for these things from the guys who specialize in making them. They are very labor intensive to say the least.

The top has a side zipper and the entire front has been covered in 1000 D MultiCam Cordura. I took the top pockets off and moved them to the sleeves. I took the bottom pockets off all together. The elbows have 1000 D Cordura from the wrist to about the top of the tricep muscle. The back has a big panel of mesh sewn in to remove as much heat as possible. The 550 cord has been sewn down about every 2 1/2" to tie the jute to. There is mesh pit panels sewn in as well.

063ac3a7.jpg


40863a7c.jpg


43712db9.jpg


00cc6ab2.jpg


The pants have 1000D MultiCam Cordura sewn in the front from overlapping the bottom of the leg to the crotch. I removed the cargo pockets. The back has the 550 cord sewn in for jute tying.

06f551ef.jpg


554fb66b.jpg


0b43103c.jpg


The boonie hat has a mesh panel sewn in and 550 cord sewn in for jute tying. I left the outside 1" or so of the brim untouched in case he wants to trim it smaller and let it fray.

424da48a.jpg



 

BigJoe29

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Dec 22, 2009
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Re: Ghillie Instructions


REALLY nice whille, i really like yours. mine is almost identical to the one you built. we got ours from a company though that makes em... i'll have to go look what the tag says. like tactical concealment or something like that, through 30+ stalks its still looking good, though it smells something horrible.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tburkes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's some pics of a ghillie I just finished for a customer. It was built to his specs and I like the way it came out. NO, I'm not going to get into making ghillies full time. No one should bitch about the prices that are being charged for these things from the guys who specialize in making them. They are very labor intensive to say the least.

The top has a side zipper and the entire front has been covered in 1000 D MultiCam Cordura. I took the top pockets off and moved them to the sleeves. I took the bottom pockets off all together. The elbows have 1000 D Cordura from the wrist to about the top of the tricep muscle. The back has a big panel of mesh sewn in to remove as much heat as possible. The 550 cord has been sewn down about every 2 1/2" to tie the jute to. There is mesh pit panels sewn in as well.

063ac3a7.jpg


40863a7c.jpg


43712db9.jpg


00cc6ab2.jpg


The pants have 1000D MultiCam Cordura sewn in the front from overlapping the bottom of the leg to the crotch. I removed the cargo pockets. The back has the 550 cord sewn in for jute tying.

06f551ef.jpg


554fb66b.jpg


0b43103c.jpg


The boonie hat has a mesh panel sewn in and 550 cord sewn in for jute tying. I left the outside 1" or so of the brim untouched in case he wants to trim it smaller and let it fray.

424da48a.jpg



</div></div>
 

SIERRAWHISKEY

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Feb 25, 2006
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PANAMA CITY FL.
Re: Ghillie Instructions

Tony if I was to guess I would say you have about 10hrs. if not a little more in sewing time in that suit???

If I was to say I'm working on a kit that will cut that time in half would it make you a happy Man???
 
G

Guest

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

Curious to see how the 1000D Cordura will hold up compared to canvas for the skids.

I do wish Id taken the time to vent the armpits in the last one I made.
 

GhostRider45b

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Dec 26, 2009
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Arizona
Re: Ghillie Instructions

1000D Cordura ? Thats just what us soldiers call 5-50 cord right.

Where would you find the netting and other supplies needed?
 

_Shay_

thing 2
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Re: Ghillie Instructions

550 for tieing the burlap to, im gonna try that on my next suit. That stuffs pretty strong, and cheap.

Supplies
550 paracord- ebay or try and find a vendor on here (or use nettin)

Netting-Hammocks at walmart(need to be died though) or stronger stuff that SW uses and I cant find. (were do you get that stuff SW?)

Burlap- I buy in bulk from this place. http://www.onlinefabricstore.net/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=burlap
20 yards will last a long time. 3-4 suits worth. At 1.50 a yard, its pretty good.

Die- Id suggest not getting Rit Die. It sucks. Doesnt look natural. I might try Tac Cons, its more expensive but will be better in the long run. If anyone knows were to get some somewhere else, speak up.

Burlap/Jute-
 

Tburkes

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

Scott, you're correct on the production time, there's a lot of work there, as you know.

Shaggy, I'll give you an example about the sturdiness of Cordura. At the last match at RO in November we had a stage where you had to drag your buddy 100 yards with one hand while shooting with the other hand. I made up a couple of drag bags out of single layer 1000 D Cordura that were filled with a bag of range cubes that cows eat. There were 56 shooters who did the stage if I remember right. I'm sure one of the bags was dragged more than the other bag, but if they were both dragged equally then there's 2550 yards on each bag. About the only damage we could see was that a stitch or two on the binding tape around the edges was popped loose, the Cordura still has many hundreds of drags still left in them. Cordura is some very tough stuff.

Night Stalker, 550 cord is parachute line. Cordura is the stuff that just about all packs, vests, and LBV are made of that all you soldiers use. What branch of the military are you in by the way?
 

Arch

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

I purchased a roll of material a few years ago that was used on the outside of the flak jackets we had during the 80's - 90's...some sort of ballistic nylon. It worked like a charm in terms of handling abrasion. You could almost sled ride down grassy slopes. I overlapped the buttons seam in front with no issues. Then my friend with the sewing machine moved.

106as8g.jpg
 

DaveV

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

This is a blatant highjack but for Northwest foliage, are you guys seeing Multi-cam or Woodland BDU for a base? I'm not wanting to go off track into another cammo thread, but was curious. I've always been a Woodland guy, but I'm open to change. My AO has a lot of deep greens up high in the mountains, but most lowland is scrub oak.
 

_Shay_

thing 2
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Re: Ghillie Instructions

I dont find the base pattern to matter. As long as it has earthy colors, it seems to work. But most of the time, I just use the pattern of bdus that would work best in that environment if I were to just use bdus.
 

InfantryM24

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

Working on one now, and this is my third one to build myself. I had always used retired BDU's and my dumbass decided to spend $90 on Camo X as a base layer. Do not spend the extra money if you don't have to...Camo X is great untouched. Once you layer your jute and give it a good skid plate, about one square foot of your base layer is going to be showing...not worth $90! Anyway, without the expense of the Camo X, I have about $200 in mine. I got too frustrated and sent it off to have both side zippers professionally sewn in (in the Dallas area that's about $50). Got the E6000 (ShoeGoo on steroids), jute, burlap, authentic knotted nylon fishing net, and Nylon upholstery thread all at Hobby Lobby. I have footlockers of old issued kit that I robbed zippers, buckles, etc. off of. If you go with a one piece front skid plate on your upper, you might think about adjustment straps on either side, as well as, some in the back to connect to your pants. Once the jute is on and it doesn't fit well, you will get a little frustrated at the way things are situated when you go to take that one shot. Just some things to think about. You definitely want some vents. This is the first one that I have made that has vents. From experience, vents are a life saver, even in 20 degree weather. a 600 meter stalk is no joke and you will be glad you had them once you exfil. Good luck and stay on this site! It's loaded with experience and knowledge that will save you some money and time.
 

Mo_Zam_Beek

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Jan 21, 2002
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Re: Ghillie Instructions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DaveV</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> for Northwest foliage, are you guys seeing Multi-cam or Woodland BDU for a base? My AO has a lot of deep greens up high in the mountains, but most lowland is scrub oak. </div></div>


Dave where in So OR are you? Klamath? Gold Beach? Medford? They all look a little different.

*I think* for a basic color scheme in my area (Medford) the idea is to take a long look at the vegetation in early October - about a week into the rain when it is just begingin to green up, or late May when things are just starting to get dried out. From there one can lighten and darken pretty quickly to get to the appropriate contrast.

Couple things stick out in my head -

Top sign is generally the lightest while bottom sign is the darkest.

Black is a non naturally occurring shade in nature.

It is easier to make something dark than it is to make something light.

Personally, I think there are several patterns that are better than Woodland for So Or. Even a plain tan or dark brown base with krylon is better IMHO.

Good luck
 

DaveV

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mo_Zam_Beek</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dave where in So OR are you? </div></div>

PM outbound
 

GhostRider45b

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Dec 26, 2009
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Re: Ghillie Instructions

OK back on subject, if I understand this right, netting is sewn on then 550 cord, burlap is tied to the netting and the cord is used to hold surrounding vegetation.

As far as the bdu's the color really doesnt matter since it wont be seen

Does anyone have a supplier for canvas for the front,and netting?
 

257speed

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SIERRAWHISKEY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I need to post some new pic's of material I'm using,makes the new suits look almost like they were built by a professional....HEHE!!! </div></div>

Look forward to seeing them, your work is great.
 
G

Guest

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

Tony, pretty good. Lighter weight too, and a hell of a lot lighter when wet, than canvas I would imagine.
 

CMDR. CARNAGE

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

just curious .. but how do you space your burlap out.. like my netting is about 1"x1" squares and i wonder if doing random knots works better than lets say every other row or something ..
 

brutus1776

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

i generally go in horizontal rows. spacing is about the length of my index finger with about 5 strands of jute or so. on next row (index finger length up) i stagger the tie knots, just like laying shingles, brick, etc.
 

greenbr

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

like the base you used on that multicam i prefer i lighter base always easier to darken then lighten i found the desert digital patterns works well also not bad alot time and effort in that suit
 

joebino55

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

Tburkes- I thought I was an accomplished ghillie suit maker but yours looks awesome. I'm not looking to buy I was just curious how much you charged the customer for the one you have pictured.
 

JHenckel

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Night_Stalker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1000D Cordura ? Thats just what us soldiers call 5-50 cord right.

Where would you find the netting and other supplies needed? </div></div>

nah man cordura is a fabric, some tough shit too. sometimes people here will call 550 cord para cord
 

Tburkes

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

Thank you Joe. The cost was $0.00 because he was a friend who was going through sniper school and liked the other work I have done for him, and he begged me to make it. I didn't know what I was getting into when I said yes.

If I were charging someone right now the cost would be $500.00 if you're not in a hurry, simply because of the time involved, and then I'd only be getting about half of what I charge for all out custom work.
 

dangerdan87

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Re: Ghillie Instructions

Rule of thumb for choosing a base is to use a light color such as tan or desert cammo. Remember, you can easily make a light color darker, but its hard to make a dark color lighter.

Black isn't a natural color in vegetation...unless it's burnt.
I used my desert digi cammies and used variations of green and brown dye to get it to the right color that will work in various environments.

For garnish, I used burlap military sandbags. They're treated so that last awhile and when left out in the sun a few days, they turn a dark golden brown color. To break up the color, I put various green and brown dye in a spray bottle and spray it on the jute to the desired color I think it best.

Never over do it. You don't need a lot of burlap/jute. Just enough to break up your outline. To help you blend in, use natural vegetation. You can tie 550 cord to your netting to help you attach vegetation to your platform. You can also use jute strands to tie it on.

A combination of too much burlap/jute and vegetation could make you look like a Sasquatch. In the event you come near a SB (Sasquatch believer), you may be in a bad situation.
wink.gif



I always used a base a size larger than what fit me. The reason for that is so if I take the ghillie off, I wont be going commando..