Sidearms & Scatterguns Glock 29 Jamming with pearce extension

flyfisherman246

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Minuteman
May 26, 2017
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Ive been trying to get a glock 29 to run smoothly for about 7 years now. I started with a gen 3 couldn't get it to work, sold it and got a gen 4. Only change is the KKM Barrel because I just can't get glock 10mm barrels to be at all accurate and the brass bulges badly. I have tried all kinds of different guide rods and recoil springs. I have sent the gun and barrel into KKM to see if they can make it work, no dice. I sent the stock pistol back to Glock, they told me its fine.

I get the most malfunctions with heavy WFN 220 hard casts. Every time it jams, the nose slams into the back of the chamber at about 11 o'clock. It will also do this with hollow points.

I have noticed it is way more reliable without the pinky extensions on the magazines, but still jams every now and then. I have noticed I get significantly more malfunctions with the pearce pinky extensions. I have also notices it doesn't usually jam when I take well aimed shots, but tends to jam when I go to shoot a couple fast shots. When shooting fast, I grip the hell out of the pistol to help with the recoil and stay on target. I'm thinking it has something to do with the mag being torqued when squeezed hard, causing the tip of the bullet to point to the side.

Any Ideas? Any advise? I love the 29, but I just can't get one to run reliably like every other glock. (There is no limp wristing taking place)
 
to be a nerd-

Jam is normally a term that requires a tool or gunsmith to fix....

Malfunctions tend to be called Type 1.2 and 3... Its a way to let everyone know what happened...

Mechanical malfunctions[edit]
Mechanical malfunctions of a firearm (commonly called jams)[3] include failures to feed, extract, or eject a cartridge; failure to fully cycle after firing; and failure of a recoil- or gas-operated firearm to lock back when empty (largely a procedural hazard, as "slide lock" is a visual cue that the firearm is empty). In extreme cases, an overloaded round, blocked barrel, poor design and/or severely weakened breech can result in an explosive failure of the receiver, barrel, or other parts of the firearm.

Failure to feed[edit]
Failure to feed (FTF) is when a firearm fails to feed the next round into the firing chamber. Failure to feed is common when the shooter does not hold the firearm firmly (known as limp wristing), when the slide is not fully cycled by the preceding round, or due to problems with the magazine. It can also be caused by worn recoil springs, buffer springs, or simply a dirty feed ramp.

Rim lock[edit]
Rim lock is where the rim of the shell casing gets caught on the extractor groove of the casing underneath it. It is a common issue for calibers with large rims, such as 7.62×54mmR, or guns that have been rechambered for cartridges shorter than intended without replacing the original magazine with one that compensates for the shorter round.

Hammer follow[edit]
Hammer follow occurs when the disconnector allows the hammer to follow the bolt and firing pin into battery, sometimes causing the firing mechanism to function without pulling the trigger. This is usually a result of extreme wear or outright breakage of firing mechanism components, and can result in uncontrollable "full-auto" operation, in which multiple rounds are discharged following a single pull of the trigger.

Slamfire[edit]
Main article: Slamfire
A slamfire is a premature, unintended discharge of a firearm that occurs as a round is being loaded into the chamber, when the bolt "slams" forward (hence the name), as a result of the firing pin having not been retracted into the bolt, or from the firing pin being carried forward by the momentum of returning to battery. Similar to a hammer follow malfunction, this can result in uncontrollable "full-auto" operation.

Failure to extract[edit]
A failure to extract occurs when the casing of the just-fired round is not successfully extracted from the chamber. This can be caused by an overly-dirty chamber, broken extractor claw, case rim failures, or several other causes.

Failure to eject[edit]
A failure to eject (FTE) occurs when the casing of the just-fired round is extracted from the chamber, but is not ejected from the firearm, causing the next round to fail to feed, or the slide/bolt to fail to return to battery. A stovepipe is common type of FTE.

Stovepipe[edit]
Failure to eject (FTE, "stovepipe") in a semi-automatic pistol.
A stovepipe or smokestack typically occurs in pump action, semi-automatic, and fully automatic firearms that fire from a closed bolt, when an empty cartridge case gets caught partway out of the ejection port instead of being thrown clear. Stovepipes can be caused by a malfunctioning or defective extractor or ejector, or when the shooter does not hold the firearm firmly enough for the action to function fully, known as limp wristing, or due to reloads that are not sufficiently powerful to fully cycle the action, etc.

Double feed (Type 3 Malfunction)[edit]
A double feed occurs when two rounds are picked up from the magazine and both are moved to be fed into the chamber at the same time. This is usually due to a bad magazine but can also be the result of a bad recoil spring.

Out-of-battery[edit]
Main article: Out-of-battery
A firearm is "in-battery" when the slide/bolt is in the normal firing position. A firearm is "out-of-battery" when the slide/bolt/action is not fully seated in the normal firing position, typically because it did not cycle fully after firing (called "returning to battery"). Most modern firearms are designed to not be capable of firing when significantly out-of-battery. As such, a firearm that is out-of-battery typically cannot be fired, which is why this is a type of firearm malfunction.

A dangerous situation can occur when a chambered round fires when the firearm is out-of-battery (called an out-of-battery discharge). The cartridge casing is not sufficiently strong to contain the pressure of firing by itself; it relies on the walls of the chamber and the bolt face to help contain the pressure. When the firearm is out-of-battery, the round is not fully chambered, or the bolt face is not against the rear of the cartridge, and if the round is fired in this situation, the case will fail, causing high-pressure hot gasses, bits of burning powder, and fragments of the casing itself to be thrown at high speed from the firearm. This can be a serious hazard to the operator of the firearm, and any bystanders.
 
Like mentioned, has anyone else fired it and had the ssme problems? Have you tried any other ammo? I saw you mentioned hollow points. Typically problems with Glocks are ammo or magazine related. If we can eliminate those as problems we can look at other things. Have you frequently fired any other Glocks without issue? Regardless of accuracy, do the malfunctions occur with the factory barrel?
 
Some pistols just won't work the same as similar ones....

At my department two officers carried Glock 21's bought from the same shop on the same day. Serial numbers were very close to each other indicating that production probably occurred at about the same time. One pistol would eat Fiochi 230 grain JHP ammo just fine, the other pistol would jam by failing to feed, or fail to eject properly almost every second round of the same ammo. Neither pistol had any difficulty with the Federal 230 grain hydra shok ammo.

My point is that some times a certain pistol just won't work right with some ammo. The only solution is to use different ammo. Otherwise, frustration is assured.
 
Yes I have owned about 15 glocks or more in 9mm, 40, 45, and 10mm. Have had any problems with the 9, 40, and 45 but both the 29 and 20 have always had failure to feed issues with aftermarket barrels and heavy 10mm ammo. They seam to work just fine with lighter target ammo, but I have 9mm's to target shoot with. I have the 10mm for grizzly protection here in Montana because I love the fact you can put night sights and a flashlight on them for when camping at night. I also have a smith .44 and a ruger .480 but have really gotten away from them due to the lack of nightsights and weapon light. I am just really having a hard time feeling comfortable with these 10mm with heavy ammo. Right when I think I'm comfortable with them, I go to shoot a mag to practice and I get a jam. Loose all confidence all over again.

Like I said, Ive been playing with this combo for years. I have narrowed down the old problem I was having to factory mags and heavy ammo. 15 round of 220 in a glock 20 was moving too sluggish for the fast moving slide. The slide was slipping over the rim and catching on the groove causing failures to feed. I have since them replaced all 10mm glock mags to wolf extra power springs and that has solved that problem. Now the problem I am having is the rounds are feeding off center (to the left) and slamming into the back of the chamber at about 11 oclock. I really think this problem is caused by the pearce extension causing torque on the mag. The harder I grip the pistol, the more likely it is to jam.

I'm sure if I put the factory barrel back in the reliability would come back, but I just don't trust the factory barrels in 10mm with heavy bear loads. Not to mention they shoot like shit. I actually blew up my factory glock 20 with factory underwood 220 hardcast. So I'm really trying to make 220 factory or handloads work with the KKM Barrels. I also have KKM barrels in my 19 and 21 and have zero problems.
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Do you get the same problems without your light attached? I've read many threads about people having malfunctions with lights and or laser attached to the rail. From what I've read it changes the harmonics of the frame and causes issues
 
What kind of accuracy are you not happy with comparing the factory barrel with the aftermarket? How many rounds do you have on your recoil spring assembly? When you say "hardcast" is that lead? Hopefully you're aware you can't shoot those through a factory barrel.

My suggestion would be put the factory barrel back in and stick to more conventional rounds. Its sounds to me if you're trying to push the Glock far beyond what it's designed for by modifying the gun and hot ammo. Did you have the aftermarket barrel in when you sent it back to Glock?
 
Recoil springs are fairly new, both this 20 and 29 are new gen 4's. I sold my gen 3's a while ago. Yes I know about lead in a glock barrel, Underwood assured me it was fine. hahaha. Another reason I want to shoot the KKM is for the lead bullets. When it went to glock it was with factory barrel. I don't feel like I'm pushing the glock very hard or asking too much out of it. I'm just trying to shoot ammo that is designed for deep penetration to bust through a grizzly skull if need be. That being said I want to be able to shoot these 220 hardcast from underwood or buffalo bore and am happy to use an aftermarket barrel if that makes it work. They shoot great, just not reliable. As far as more conventional ammo, I went with 10mm for a reason. Most of the "Conventional" 10mm ammo is barely more than a .40 sw and a FMJ or JHP are not designed for deep penetration. I have done all sorts of hand loading over the years with 220 hard cast trying to get something to run 100% and just can't. I'm tempted to buy a bunch of buffalo bore 220 hardcast and run it to see how it does, but at $1.50 a round thats hard to do. I have a feeling there's a lot of guys out there packing around a 10mm with 220 hard casts that ran a few rounds through it and said good enough. I would bet if they ran some mags of the stuff through it, they would encounter some failure to feeds.
 
"Fairly new" recoil spring assemblies still may be too weak for what you're asking. If you're still not wanting to ditch the ammo that sounds as if its the problem, I'd replace the RSAs and try it.

But I still think the ammo you are trying to use is over what the Glock can run. What is the velocity? Your last sentence even shows you feel its an ammo iss and not a Glock issue.
 
Fairly new meaning less than 300 rounds through them. If they can't last 300 rounds, we have some other problems. I tried heavier recoil springs in the past and it made things worse. Yeah I'm with you on the hot ammo causing issues. Its pretty frustrating, if I wanted to shoot target ammo I'd be shooting 9mm pistols. The point of these 10mm is to be able to run powerful ammo for hunting and big game defense.
 
I have been using the Pearce Glock Gen 4 PG-1045 + extensions on my G29 with the stock barrel. I have had no problems with factory Hornady 200 XTP or my own handloads using the 200 XTP and 12.9 grs of AA#9. The only problems I've had was with SWC style bullets failing to feed in the G29. My G40 also functions fine with the 200 gr loads. I haven't had any experience with the WFN hardcast bullets.