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Sidearms & Scatterguns Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

Hey Hiders,

I have a Gen 4 G22 .40 cal that I am stripping to paint the frame (OD Green) and while im at it I thought to change out the trigger to an aftermarket one.

My question is what brand of trigger group do you like best? I shot my friends XD in .40 cal and the trigger safety felt better/smoother on my finger when depressed and the pull was more crisp than the glocks. I am hoping to move to something similar or better than that of the XD.

Any advice?

Thank you as always!!!!!
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

I agree with Knight. I did the 25 cent trigger job and put a Sherer 3.5 connector in my 34 and it's like night and day.
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

I recommend the following
3.5 disconnector
.25 cent trigger job
Jäger lightweight steel striker
Competition spring kit
LWD trigger stop

All those parts and the .25 cent trigger job has given my G35 a smooth take up, and a crisp(not 1911 crisp) break at 2.5lbs, shorten reset
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

I have tried glock worx whole set up and a few others and i can say change the connector to a ghost polish the other parts and do the sping kit and you will love your trigger
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

I hate all of the aftermarket trigger items I've tried in Glocks.

There are only a couple ways to lighten a Glock trigger:

1. Lighter firing pin spring
2. Heaier trigger return spring
3. Lighter firin pin safety spring
4. Reducing friction (polishing components)
5. Changing geometry of connector, to give the trigger (and therefore the "sear" more mechanical advantage over the engagement lug of the striker.

You can play with the spring rates, and by the time it's all tuned up, while retaining the OEM connector, you'll have a crisp 5lb trigger.

Simple physics dictates that if you give the trigger/sear more leverage over the striker (decreasing pull weight), you INCREASE the amount of travel/motion the trigger must move through to acheive release of the striker. More motion = creep = mushy = crap.

My favorite glock trigger is:

Wolf heavy trigger spring
Work lightweight firing pin safety spring
2-3 coils clipped off striker spring
carefully performed $0.25 triggerjob

Just my opinion...
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

I might also add that most of the time, the sear/striker contact is NOT across the entire width of the parts. Also, many glocks have altogether WAY too much sear engagement, which is really easily fixed.

Take a sharpie and mark the front face of the striker lug.

Assemble pistol, cock/dry fire 5-10 times.

Disassemble pistol and look to see how much sharpie got rubbed off. Mainly, you're looking to see how HIGH up on the lug the sear engages. For a creep-free and crisp release, aim for about .015" or so. Many will have as much as .050".

How to fix? Grind the lug off until only .015" of the "rub mark" is remaining!

Every Glock I've seen indicates sear/striker contact on the bottom passenger corner. For safety sake, ONLY GRIND ON THE CORNER where contact occurs!! That way, should your little tiny bit of sear engagement break, there is still lots of striker material to catch on the sear-preventing an ND!
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

I've had a good experience with the Ghost Tactical 5.0 using the Dave Spaulding cut in a G26. Trigger breaks right at 5lbs with virtually no over-travel and tight (~0.10") reset. Much smoother overall than the stock trigger, cleaner break, and the reset is perfect for doubles and triples. I almost hate to say it, being a long time SIG nut, but I can shoot this one faster and more effectively at CQ than my P226 with SRT.

I also sanded the trigger safety down a bit so it is flush with the curve of the trigger when engaged.
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

I have not had the same experience with tge Ghost tactical 5.0 connector.

To me it had a mushier, creepier letoff than OEM, and while the TCT tab seems great in theory, didn't actually decrease overtravel (and thus, reset) appreciably.
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: turbo54</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have not had the same experience with tge Ghost tactical 5.0 connector.

To me it had a mushier, creepier letoff than OEM, and while the TCT tab seems great in theory, didn't actually decrease overtravel (and thus, reset) appreciably. </div></div>

Turbo54, When you filed the trigger control tab to fit, did you file it at an angle (Dave Spaulding Cut) or leave it square?
Dave Spaulding Cut
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: garandhunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just bought a Glock 45cal mod 21.Are there any suggestions in general. </div></div>

Yes, follow the advice in my post above and optimize your sear/striker engagement. Then do the 25 cent trigger job. After that's done, decide if you want to change pull weight.

Buy a Wolf heavy trigger spring, a light firing pin safety spring, and a light striker spring. Try out different combinations of springs till you get where you like.
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MWilliams96</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mind if I highjack? Can someone explain what the .25 cent trigger job is? </div></div>

Google it for details. It includes polishing the mating surfaces of all moving fire-control parts...

To me, a trigger that lets off crisply is the most crucial factor. Weight, as long as it's not crazy, is no big deal. Grinding the striker lug for optimal sear engagement is the single best mod for a Glock trigger, in my opinion, and it only requires a sharpie and a dremel, grinder or even just a stone.
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

Anyone out there running the one advertised on glockmeister? The complete drop in unit...looks simple! I was thinking of dropping this one in my G35...
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

I have tried a couple different components in my glocks for race use. The first thing is polishing the stock components. (connector, safety plunger, striker, every component that touches another.) the stock parts are what you would expect from a 500 dollar trigger.

If your a mechanically inclined individual, you can go bigger. One thing I don't understand is why the glock triggers sets cost so damn much. If you want a killer trigger, that just runs no matter what. Get the ghost maker 3.5 lb connector, polish iaw 25 cent, wolf safety plunger spring <polish the shit out of the safety plunger, and the part of the trigger bar that touches it>, I think the whole deal costs like 40 bucks and works well. If you want to go farther you can get a ZEV trigger to limit pre-travel/ over travel. Less advisable if it's a duty / home defense weapon, unless it's the 80 dollar version that has no extra moving parts) I have that in my race (uspsa production) gun, and it removes a decent amount of the annoying pretravel slack. You won't end up with a CZ trigger or even XDM trigger, but it will be better (I love the CZ trigger, it's one of the best striker fired triggers I have felt. But there is a ridiculous amount of pretravel.

<span style="color: #FF0000">STOCK striker spring</span> (5 lb for 9mm. 6lb for 40/45) <span style="color: #FF0000">(home defense/ duty) </span>
Stock trigger spring (unless you cut the trigger safety tab, it will hit with 6 or less lb trigger springs)
Polish
ghost maker 3.5 connector
Wolf lightened safety plunger spring

Race/ not time is life situations
4.0 9mm (4.5lb 40) striker spring
Polish
6 lb trigger spring, must trimm trigger safety. Pm for details.
3.5 lb ghost connector
over travel limiting grub screw in the ejector housing (20 bucks if you buy it ready to rock)
zev pre travel bar (can be fabricated by a good welder/ fabricator by adding material to the trigger bar in front. pm for details.

Ghost maker 3.5 lb connector kit, see my comments above for which springs to use when...

Zev overtravel limiter Gen 1-4

Stock style trigger bar with reduced pre travel.
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: turbo54</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I hate all of the aftermarket trigger items I've tried in Glocks.

There are only a couple ways to lighten a Glock trigger:

1. Lighter firing pin spring
2. Heaier trigger return spring
3. Lighter firin pin safety spring
4. Reducing friction (polishing components)
5. Changing geometry of connector, to give the trigger (and therefore the "sear" more mechanical advantage over the engagement lug of the striker.

You can play with the spring rates, and by the time it's all tuned up, while retaining the OEM connector, you'll have a crisp 5lb trigger.

Simple physics dictates that if you give the trigger/sear more leverage over the striker (decreasing pull weight), you INCREASE the amount of travel/motion the trigger must move through to acheive release of the striker. More motion = creep = mushy = crap.

My favorite glock trigger is:

Wolf heavy trigger spring
Work lightweight firing pin safety spring
2-3 coils clipped off striker spring
carefully performed $0.25 triggerjob

Just my opinion...</div></div>

I have owned eight Glocks and used them all for competition. These are competition modifications only!

I agree with everything except the striker spring. I buy the Wolff reduced striker spring. That is plenty. You should have extra of all of these, especially the extra power trigger spring since it is the most likely to break.

Regarding modifications to a G-20 or G-21 -

Make these changes at your peril. The larger framed guns do not like these mods over done. You will start getting light strikes. I have done all of this to my G-21 and lightened the striker. I also always use Federal Primers. They are softer.

With all of these, it is very important to keep the striker channel free of dirt and lubrication. Nothing will stop a Glock faster than lube in the striker channel. Brownell's sell long shaft wooden swabs that are perfect.

When the channel is clean, you should be able to take a Glock that is UNLOADED and not cocked, shaking it rear to front, back and forth, you should hear the striker moving to the front of the striker channel from the rear with a bright "tink" sound. If the sound is muddy, dull, muffled, etc., clean the striker channel.

My best trigger broke at just under 3 lbs the last time I checked it. They all get better with age.

If you get light strikes, you have gone to far for your ammo.
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

Only thing I recommend is using a 3.5 connector. Otherwise after shooting around 1000 rounds it will really smooth out. Both of my Glocks have well over 1k rounds through each and they have nice feeling triggers. They both break crisp, no mush, no creep. The one with the 3.5 connector is definitely a lighter break but I can shoot the other just as well honestly. The 3.5 just lets me run the gun faster.
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

I love the Ghost parts and have installed them in all 4 of my Glocks.

They have combinations, of parts & springs, that you will love!
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

The Fulcrum kit is really nice and breaks at 3 pounds consistently. Sorry for the crap ass picture but here it is.
Glock.jpg
 
Re: Glock aftermarket Trigger question...

I've got the Fulcrum drop in trigger and Ghost 3.5 connector with factory trigger. The Fulcrum if released slowly to reset would result in 2 or 3 more shots going downrange quick. My trigger doesn't have the adjustment screws so i've got to sell it.

The factory trigger with the Ghost feels pretty nice and somewhat comparable. I'm happy with just the Ghost connector and my titanium firing pin kit but I got better groups with my Fulcrum kit.