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Sidearms & Scatterguns Glocks and Triggers

mark112278

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Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 13, 2013
37
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Ft Worth, TX
Had a conversation with a guy I worked with tonight, we got to talking about Glock and I happened to ask him about triggers on them. He had some ideas about my problem but I think I need some more information. I've got a Gen 2 Glock 19, I've put 11,500(approximate) rounds through it since I bought it new. I'm getting ready to replace the barrel, its showing some serious wear. The trigger however, I would like to replace because I just can't stand the trigger pull. Here is my question, I'm looking for a reduced trigger pull(weight), distance(maybe). I like to feel and consistency of a Glock trigger, I would just like to reduce the weight and if it could be a little more crisp that would be great too, think glass breaking. Any idea's you guys have would be great. I'm doing my own research, but it seems that a lot of times when a guy writes an article or a review piece, he's doing it from his own slanted view point.
 
Products - GlockTriggers.com

I got Vogals in my 34 and 35 and like them. Went with that so I can still shoot them in SSP IDPA if I wanted. If not I would have went with the Edge trigger.
 
The LW trigger pak is the cheapest good trigger: Lone Wolf Distributors - Product Detail - Lone Wolf "Pro Pick" Trigger Kit

After that, you are looking at $100 or more. Glock triggers can be made to be decent, not ever what I would call great and certainly no "glass rod breaking". The Vanek is still the best, if you want the best. The Edge and Vogel are just a bit behind the Vanek. For most people a smoothing up and getting rid of the terrible overtravel (which the LW kit does) gives a significant improvement allowing sloppier trigger technique.

While you might see some shine coming through on your barrel, I seriously doubt it is anywhere close to worn out, or that it even has any significant wear.
 
First off, a G19 barrel ought not need replacing at only ~10k rounds.

My favorite Glock trigger, which provides a bit less release weight, and considerably crisper let off:

Polish the (OEM) connector/trigger bar interface
Wolf low power firing pin safety spring
Wolf hi power trigger spring
Set sear engagement to ~.020" by grinding the sear lug on the striker

Note that "minus" connectors will decrease pull weight but increase creep. They must, because they work by increasing the mechanical advantage of the trigger over the sear.

You'll never achieve a 1911 feel, but it can be greatly improved.
 
Very timely thread. I was doing my usual research before starting a similar one myself. Does anyone have any experience with the Travis Haley aftermarket Glock triggers?

I'm so used to the factory Glock triggers by now they don't "bother" me, but out of curiosity I'd like to experiment with some aftermarket options to see where I can get an improvement, and ran across the Haley.

The others mentioned so far have obviously given me a good place to start some further research though.

ETA: +1 on the unlikelihood of you having smoked a Glock barrel in 11k rounds unless you have gone out of your way to employ some goofy cleaning methods. Come to think of it, I don't know that I cleaned my barrel twice in 10k rounds.
 
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I have 17k on my G34 and am nowhere near replacing the barrel.

About the trigger: a Vanek GM is a very nice setup that doesn't ruin the crisp reset that is such an advantage of the Glock. I run one on my 34.
 
Barrel toast at 11K? I want/need to see pictures of that before I even come close to believing this. I have a few co-workers that have 30k+ documented rounds down their 40s and 9s, that still same-hole drill all day long. Maybe if you've been shooting corrosive +P+ ammo the whole time - maybe!

Trigger - I don't think given your vintage you need to be concerned, but I'll add this. If your serial number is EHxxx or EARLIER - then you need a different trigger/trigger bar. The end of the bar(cruciform) is angled differently.

If your G19 was manufactured AFTER EH series, then go with any competition trigger of your choosing. I personally stick with factory Glock trigger, install Ghost Inc kit(connector, FP Safety spring, FP spring, trigger spring) and maybe polish up surfaces a bit, voila. You won't get a 1911 match trigger out of it. It's essentially a double-action. Have to cock(draw back) the firing pin in the trigger squeeze.

If it's a carry gun, I'd question a competition trigger in your piece. But - many opinions on that too. My word is most certainly *NOT* gospel, just an opinion from my time working on and shooting the things.

Shoot safely!

-G45
 
Salient triggers are phenomenal. They are about $250 for a custom fit trigger to your weapon. When I first got mine, I was doubling frequently due to the reduced pull weight and reset. They are def worth the money. The come with a custom aluminum trigger shoe that can be either curved or flat faced.
 
Try as you might, you won't best a Vanek. The G24 I picked up yrs ago came with one & I've tried to mimic it with new springs and such. It won't happen though. I'm mulling over buying another Vanek right now actually.

This winter I'm keeping up with my dry-firing, cuz last year I didn't and it really showed during the first match of the season. One of the first GMs I talked to told me that dry fire was the key to success. I initially thought it was nonsense. Now, I know better.

Dry fire as much as possible with your stock Glock trigger and you'll be amazed at how you'll become accustomed to it(and it'll show in your shooting too).
 
I agree with Saito about dryfire. As well, I've seen a much greater improvement in my groups and splits (and scores) by working on grip strength with the Captains of Crush than I did with the Vanek. It's not that much of an advantage.

For a fighting Glock I wouldn't consider anything but stock.
 
Well my cleaning methods are stringent, they've been the same for 15 years. I'm one of those people if I fire more than 1 box the whole pistol gets cleaned. As for the barrel, like I said, sometimes you can't believe what you read, I've gotten some information about barrels after shooting crappy ass cheap fmj rounds etc etc. I'll look at the more closely.

The trigger is a different story. I spent a lot of time looking at triggers on Glock Triggers today and I started to get interested in either the Travis Haley or the Vogel. They both seem to fit what I'm looking for so I'm just going to pull the trigger, no pun intended, and buy the Vogel and switch them out. The different firing pin springs is what sold me, I can change things out till I find what I'm looking for. I will report back once I do. If I like what I see I may be changing out the triggers on my other 2 glocks as well.
 
I coudln't agree more, that is the quickest way to turn the gun into an uncontrollable full auto gun

Of course you need to be careful, and not be a putz about it.

I did say .020" and not .002" though, so it still has HEALTHY sear engagement. Most all of us have rifles with .010" or even less engagement. Plus, a Glock doesn't sit in the holster Cocked.
 
I have a Zev Fulcrum in a 21 and just put one in my new 41 and I really like them a lot and they are very adjustable . I like a stock trigger in a carry gun though, for some reason I just feel better about my carry gun that way .

JW
 
Many, MANY years ago when Glock 3.5 LB triggers were only available on their long slide 17's, I tried solving the over travel issue by super gluing a rubber pencil eraser onto the frame behind the trigger. I filed off just enough of the eraser so the trigger would break without that horrible over travel. It worked great for months, then I went off to the SOF match, and on my first pistol stage, the pistol decided to fire 2-3 round bursts every time I pulled the trigger.

I spoke with the Glock rep who was there as glocks were fairly new at that time, HIs response was "I could have told you that was what would happen."

Obviously, I took the eraser off as I didn't want to go to jail for having a non-registered class 3 pencil eraser.