Any reputable smiths on here who assemble AR uppers. I almost have all the pieces, but dont trust myself to put the upper together.
Anyway, looking for someone who does it right.
thanks
Anyway, looking for someone who does it right.
thanks
- Thread starter hyena74
- Start date
Re: Go to upper assembler?
I've built uppers for 12 yrs now, and have a shop to do so. If you have the parts, it's not a problem for me to do it for much less than $50 hr. But if your lookin for a "true" tack driving reliable upper built with Noveske parts, MSTN is your Co. I can show you my builds accuracy, and 100% guarantee MOA accuracy if you use a LW, Wilson or any other quality barrel. I just built 3 this past weekend and even the 300blk is an MOA gun, the .556's are hammers. Here's a buddy's upper (elite arms) and the upper I built with a LW brrl and lapped the upper.
Before
With my built upper
He took his elite back, and bought my upper, this was shot with a Tru Glow red dot sight @ 100yds
All shot using American Eagle Blk Box 223 55g
I've built uppers for 12 yrs now, and have a shop to do so. If you have the parts, it's not a problem for me to do it for much less than $50 hr. But if your lookin for a "true" tack driving reliable upper built with Noveske parts, MSTN is your Co. I can show you my builds accuracy, and 100% guarantee MOA accuracy if you use a LW, Wilson or any other quality barrel. I just built 3 this past weekend and even the 300blk is an MOA gun, the .556's are hammers. Here's a buddy's upper (elite arms) and the upper I built with a LW brrl and lapped the upper.
Before
With my built upper
He took his elite back, and bought my upper, this was shot with a Tru Glow red dot sight @ 100yds
All shot using American Eagle Blk Box 223 55g
Re: Go to upper assembler?
Another "personal" build
Bottom is just a Barrett REC7, hate photo bucket
Back SPR is my build, front is Wilson Combat
Another "personal" build
Back SPR is my build, front is Wilson Combat
Re: Go to upper assembler?
Build it yourself. the first one's a little scary but is easy.
Build it yourself. the first one's a little scary but is easy.
Re: Go to upper assembler?
I too agree, but do it right. Lapp the rec face, torque the brrl nut to 35-75ftlbs, if your runing a non a2 fsb and just a gb, please dimple the brrl. Just have the right tools, I have had waay too many uppers come in for repair, with brrl nuts at 20ftlbs, canted fsb's, off timed fh's, and non aligned quad rails and tubes. An upper build is very easy, that's why thousand's have done it, and most did ok. But MSTN makes some of the best uppers I have shot. When I see with my own eyes a 10.5" brrl shoot .5" @ 100 prone with bipod, I know what's doing it. (The barrel) That's the heart of your upper. It's about 30 mins of work just to slap it together, or an hr-hr1/2 to get it right.
I too agree, but do it right. Lapp the rec face, torque the brrl nut to 35-75ftlbs, if your runing a non a2 fsb and just a gb, please dimple the brrl. Just have the right tools, I have had waay too many uppers come in for repair, with brrl nuts at 20ftlbs, canted fsb's, off timed fh's, and non aligned quad rails and tubes. An upper build is very easy, that's why thousand's have done it, and most did ok. But MSTN makes some of the best uppers I have shot. When I see with my own eyes a 10.5" brrl shoot .5" @ 100 prone with bipod, I know what's doing it. (The barrel) That's the heart of your upper. It's about 30 mins of work just to slap it together, or an hr-hr1/2 to get it right.
Re: Go to upper assembler?
What are your favorite tools? I need to grab some upper assembly tools and wants some personal recommendations. Hard to tell the differences in quality and usefulness without using them first. I'm a mechanic by trade so I have all the punches and a torque wrench already.
What are your favorite tools? I need to grab some upper assembly tools and wants some personal recommendations. Hard to tell the differences in quality and usefulness without using them first. I'm a mechanic by trade so I have all the punches and a torque wrench already.
Re: Go to upper assembler?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chakup</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Build it yourself. the first one's a little scary but is easy. </div></div>
i dont mind building my lowers, but damn, as much as this shit is costing now days, i dont want to screw anything up. id rather leave anything that takes skill to the professionals.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chakup</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Build it yourself. the first one's a little scary but is easy. </div></div>
i dont mind building my lowers, but damn, as much as this shit is costing now days, i dont want to screw anything up. id rather leave anything that takes skill to the professionals.
Re: Go to upper assembler?
guess i should add a little more detail to what ive got and want to turn it into.
have:
vltor mur upper
daniel defense 16" chrome lined hammer forged m4 profile barrel
low profile daniel defense gas block
troy rear battle sight
bcm mod 3 gunfighter charging handle
need:
bcm bolt carrier group (god help me)
carbine length spikes melonmite gas tube
battlecomp 1.5 brake (or 1.0 depending)
troy front battle sight
im really wanting to have the barrel cut down to 14.5 inches and have the brake pinned and welded.
since the barrel is chrome lined, im not 100% sure it can be cut down. if not, i will just have to keep it 16" long.
also, after researching and reading smoe reviews on daniel defenses barrels, it seems they made the gas port hole to small and most are having trouble short cycling. they were saying the hole needs to be opened up to a 1/16" to work properly...so im guessing i will need to have this dont also.
anyway, this is where im at as of now. it will probably take me another month or so to get the rest of the parts rounded up.
guess i should add a little more detail to what ive got and want to turn it into.
have:
vltor mur upper
daniel defense 16" chrome lined hammer forged m4 profile barrel
low profile daniel defense gas block
troy rear battle sight
bcm mod 3 gunfighter charging handle
need:
bcm bolt carrier group (god help me)
carbine length spikes melonmite gas tube
battlecomp 1.5 brake (or 1.0 depending)
troy front battle sight
im really wanting to have the barrel cut down to 14.5 inches and have the brake pinned and welded.
since the barrel is chrome lined, im not 100% sure it can be cut down. if not, i will just have to keep it 16" long.
also, after researching and reading smoe reviews on daniel defenses barrels, it seems they made the gas port hole to small and most are having trouble short cycling. they were saying the hole needs to be opened up to a 1/16" to work properly...so im guessing i will need to have this dont also.
anyway, this is where im at as of now. it will probably take me another month or so to get the rest of the parts rounded up.
Re: Go to upper assembler?
Its been a LONG time since I had anyone "assemble" an upper for me with few exceptions where I've needed gunsmithing work done at the same time at which point I've had a smith perform the work, and then assemble and test the upper for me.
I've used Steve and the fine folks at ADCO (Sylvania, OH) with great success in the past for the work I mentioned. They generally charge a flat rate of around $35 to assemble an AR upper from parts. They can also perform any other AR-related work that you might need/want done at the same time and their turn-around is extremely fast (or at least was before all the current craziness) at <2 weeks. For a cut-down from 16" to 14.5", threading the barrel, and permanent pin job on your barrel, that'd cost roughly another $95.
ETA: Here's a link to ADCO: http://www.adcofirearms.com/
Its been a LONG time since I had anyone "assemble" an upper for me with few exceptions where I've needed gunsmithing work done at the same time at which point I've had a smith perform the work, and then assemble and test the upper for me.
I've used Steve and the fine folks at ADCO (Sylvania, OH) with great success in the past for the work I mentioned. They generally charge a flat rate of around $35 to assemble an AR upper from parts. They can also perform any other AR-related work that you might need/want done at the same time and their turn-around is extremely fast (or at least was before all the current craziness) at <2 weeks. For a cut-down from 16" to 14.5", threading the barrel, and permanent pin job on your barrel, that'd cost roughly another $95.
ETA: Here's a link to ADCO: http://www.adcofirearms.com/
Re: Go to upper assembler?
Well if your buying the tools let me keep you from wasting your $ on an "Armorers wrench" I've went through 5 of all different brands (breaking/marring, and get a PRI brrl nut tool. These things are awesome, and will last a lifetime, just put your torque wrench on and go. Also "NEVER" try to torque a brrl, or fh, without using an Armorers upper rec. clamp, with insert for bolt, that clamps into your vise, a good set of "roll" punches, (don't use flat head punches), a lower pedestal to put in your vice, to hold lowers in place, other things can come in handy if you have never done a lower build, are a front pivot pin installer. (I've got a way that works, and hardly ever use it), A2 rear sight installer, (if your gonna build an A2 of course), good 4-6oz ball peen hammer, and of course a "Good" torque wrench, that's accurate and adjusts to 75ftlbs,castle nut wrench, strap wrench (for ff tubes), and an upper receiver lapping tool to make your receiver true, and your brrl will be straight. This makes brrl installs much better, and your brrl won't be canted, or closer to one side of a ff tube or quad rail. One more thing I like is a "picatinny" clamp, so you can get perfect alignment with your receiver's flat top when installing a quad rail. Some of this stuff doesn't "have" to be purchased, I've put lowers together on my kitchen table with a hammer and punch set, and saw guys at gun shows building uppers using an Armorers wrench, and a ratchet. I even saw a guy "torque" a barrel using a hammer and punch, but i've also saw many of those back in shop because the brrl came loose.
One more thing I like to keep is a barrel dimpler, to get gb's aligned and more stable. A basic m4 build is very straight forward with standard handguard, but put your upper in a clamp to tighten flash hiders, I've saw some come out ok, and others actually twist the barrel. Go slow, watch video's and do it right the 1st time, and always run a few pills through it to make sure gas pressure is good, and check every brass piece.
Well if your buying the tools let me keep you from wasting your $ on an "Armorers wrench" I've went through 5 of all different brands (breaking/marring, and get a PRI brrl nut tool. These things are awesome, and will last a lifetime, just put your torque wrench on and go. Also "NEVER" try to torque a brrl, or fh, without using an Armorers upper rec. clamp, with insert for bolt, that clamps into your vise, a good set of "roll" punches, (don't use flat head punches), a lower pedestal to put in your vice, to hold lowers in place, other things can come in handy if you have never done a lower build, are a front pivot pin installer. (I've got a way that works, and hardly ever use it), A2 rear sight installer, (if your gonna build an A2 of course), good 4-6oz ball peen hammer, and of course a "Good" torque wrench, that's accurate and adjusts to 75ftlbs,castle nut wrench, strap wrench (for ff tubes), and an upper receiver lapping tool to make your receiver true, and your brrl will be straight. This makes brrl installs much better, and your brrl won't be canted, or closer to one side of a ff tube or quad rail. One more thing I like is a "picatinny" clamp, so you can get perfect alignment with your receiver's flat top when installing a quad rail. Some of this stuff doesn't "have" to be purchased, I've put lowers together on my kitchen table with a hammer and punch set, and saw guys at gun shows building uppers using an Armorers wrench, and a ratchet. I even saw a guy "torque" a barrel using a hammer and punch, but i've also saw many of those back in shop because the brrl came loose.
One more thing I like to keep is a barrel dimpler, to get gb's aligned and more stable. A basic m4 build is very straight forward with standard handguard, but put your upper in a clamp to tighten flash hiders, I've saw some come out ok, and others actually twist the barrel. Go slow, watch video's and do it right the 1st time, and always run a few pills through it to make sure gas pressure is good, and check every brass piece.
Re: Go to upper assembler?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hyena74</div><div class="ubbcode-body">guess i should add a little more detail to what ive got and want to turn it into.
have:
vltor mur upper
daniel defense 16" chrome lined hammer forged m4 profile barrel
low profile daniel defense gas block
troy rear battle sight
bcm mod 3 gunfighter charging handle
need:
bcm bolt carrier group (god help me)
carbine length spikes melonmite gas tube
battlecomp 1.5 brake (or 1.0 depending)
troy front battle sight
im really wanting to have the barrel cut down to 14.5 inches and have the brake pinned and welded.
since the barrel is chrome lined, im not 100% sure it can be cut down. if not, i will just have to keep it 16" long.
also, after researching and reading smoe reviews on daniel defenses barrels, it seems they made the gas port hole to small and most are having trouble short cycling. they were saying the hole needs to be opened up to a 1/16" to work properly...so im guessing i will need to have this dont also.
anyway, this is where im at as of now. it will probably take me another month or so to get the rest of the parts rounded up. </div></div>
i know it's your build, but I'd save a few $'s and get a BCM/RRA etc gas tube, I have a gun that's been through 3 Carbine classes (1,000rds each) and stick with a 16". You wouldn't believe the people I get that want to switch handguards/tubes/rails, or want a different fh/Brake. I would definitely check out Precision Armament's .556 Brake. Much better for muzzle flip, and the guys are a Dream to work with. They have the best fh/Brake alignment kit's I've ever used, and they will make you happy. Not a HUGE Co. but one of the best. Small Co. but a ton of Science goes into their Brakes, and I as well as some good Tactical shooters can attest. I saw a write up in a local magazine, and after my M11 purchase, I tried the M472 on a .556 and now most my M4's that get shot wear one. they also have some amazing 700 scope rails, and bolt knobs as well.
BTW read about "filthy 14" a BCM gun with standard gas tube with over 35k rds down the pipe.
Please visit these guys http://precisionarmament.com/
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hyena74</div><div class="ubbcode-body">guess i should add a little more detail to what ive got and want to turn it into.
have:
vltor mur upper
daniel defense 16" chrome lined hammer forged m4 profile barrel
low profile daniel defense gas block
troy rear battle sight
bcm mod 3 gunfighter charging handle
need:
bcm bolt carrier group (god help me)
carbine length spikes melonmite gas tube
battlecomp 1.5 brake (or 1.0 depending)
troy front battle sight
im really wanting to have the barrel cut down to 14.5 inches and have the brake pinned and welded.
since the barrel is chrome lined, im not 100% sure it can be cut down. if not, i will just have to keep it 16" long.
also, after researching and reading smoe reviews on daniel defenses barrels, it seems they made the gas port hole to small and most are having trouble short cycling. they were saying the hole needs to be opened up to a 1/16" to work properly...so im guessing i will need to have this dont also.
anyway, this is where im at as of now. it will probably take me another month or so to get the rest of the parts rounded up. </div></div>
i know it's your build, but I'd save a few $'s and get a BCM/RRA etc gas tube, I have a gun that's been through 3 Carbine classes (1,000rds each) and stick with a 16". You wouldn't believe the people I get that want to switch handguards/tubes/rails, or want a different fh/Brake. I would definitely check out Precision Armament's .556 Brake. Much better for muzzle flip, and the guys are a Dream to work with. They have the best fh/Brake alignment kit's I've ever used, and they will make you happy. Not a HUGE Co. but one of the best. Small Co. but a ton of Science goes into their Brakes, and I as well as some good Tactical shooters can attest. I saw a write up in a local magazine, and after my M11 purchase, I tried the M472 on a .556 and now most my M4's that get shot wear one. they also have some amazing 700 scope rails, and bolt knobs as well.
BTW read about "filthy 14" a BCM gun with standard gas tube with over 35k rds down the pipe.
Please visit these guys http://precisionarmament.com/
Re: Go to upper assembler?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Triple D</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's a nice group groundhogbuster. That truGlo have the 4moa dot? </div></div>
Yes it was. Horrible trying to shoot at 100yds, but it works. I wanted to put my QD Leupold on and get some real good results, but the buyer, wanted the tru glow sighted in, so I bore sighted it, and that was literally the 1st 3 shots it printed. I can usually get very close with a look down the bore, and adj. the xhairs or dot in this case to the x ring. I did make the final adjustments, but didn't fire it again, as he wanted his kid to get a whitetail with it the next morning, and he sure as heck did. Good 6 point at 50yds, said it ran 20yds with 62gr soft points.
Adco does do good work, and for a "plain jane" build they did for me a longer while back, I paid $100. But I hung around a few machine shops that turn out top notch AR's and decided to buy my tools, and build my own. I had some good training, and built my 1st upper for a "then called" Blackwater. After that build, I had several guys from a Nuclear Plant that were Security, ask for builds, and just said "build em like they were your own" and it turned out to be the start of a good thing. I do get alot of people saying "don't shoot it" But I always put some rounds down it, and in a "break in" procedure just to check gas leaks, function, ejection, etc.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Triple D</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's a nice group groundhogbuster. That truGlo have the 4moa dot? </div></div>
Yes it was. Horrible trying to shoot at 100yds, but it works. I wanted to put my QD Leupold on and get some real good results, but the buyer, wanted the tru glow sighted in, so I bore sighted it, and that was literally the 1st 3 shots it printed. I can usually get very close with a look down the bore, and adj. the xhairs or dot in this case to the x ring. I did make the final adjustments, but didn't fire it again, as he wanted his kid to get a whitetail with it the next morning, and he sure as heck did. Good 6 point at 50yds, said it ran 20yds with 62gr soft points.
Adco does do good work, and for a "plain jane" build they did for me a longer while back, I paid $100. But I hung around a few machine shops that turn out top notch AR's and decided to buy my tools, and build my own. I had some good training, and built my 1st upper for a "then called" Blackwater. After that build, I had several guys from a Nuclear Plant that were Security, ask for builds, and just said "build em like they were your own" and it turned out to be the start of a good thing. I do get alot of people saying "don't shoot it" But I always put some rounds down it, and in a "break in" procedure just to check gas leaks, function, ejection, etc.
