• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Good garden idea?

@DarnYankeeUSMC

Does your wife leave the heat mats on after the seeds sprout?

My Biker Billy Jalepeno seeds got here, so i filled another tray, with them, Jalafuego, African marigolds, and 2 different egg plants.

I ran a germination test on a 50 cent seed pack of marigolds from Walmart. Less than 20%. :oops:
 
We still have a little snow and ice in the garden, but it's fading fortunately. I actually took the Kubota down and broke up some of the deeper patches about a week ago in the shaded areas. I have a friend with a greenhouse and heating pads so he is starting tomatoes and peppers for me. I have seed potatoes and seeds for most of what I plan to plant this year. I may look at filters for the irrigation water I get, because there are an incredible amount of weed seeds that come in the water. I used some more weed cloth last year, but the jury is still out on that and durability doesn't seem to be as good as I had hoped.

The fruits of my labors are, however, priceless at times.

Only ONE hill of two zuchini plants. ;)
 
Last edited:
@DarnYankeeUSMC

Does your wife leave the heat mats on after the seeds sprout?

My Biker Billy Jalepeno seeds got here, so i filled another tray, with them, Jalafuego, African marigolds, and 2 different egg plants.

I ran a germination test on a 50 cent seed pack of marigolds from Walmart. Less than 20%. :oops:

The woman says that she turns them off after sprout.

We grow a Thai Chile, jalapeno and Tabasco pepper. She makes a great hot sauce from a blend of the Thai and Tabasco peppers.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 338dude
Problem with black plastic and metal is they can get too hot with direct sun. At least in phoenix. I know that can help in colder climates as they get warmer sooner.
 
We had an old cattle chute that eventually we tore down because we don't have cows anymore so those panels were just sitting around for a number of years...so I was working with that I had on hand. That said I saw the idea to put the panels flat and in layers like I did a number of years ago in a magazine. Ever since then I was curious to try it. Now that I have those containers and they work really good I figured now is the time.

The concept is basically to have the plants grow up through the panels, but when they sprawl they are supported to some degree. I am sure it will work just fine but this is the first year I've tried that method.
Great idea actually. I used to make round fence wire tubes for the mater's to grow in but if they got too big you couldnt get the mater's out. This way you just reach right in.
 
The woman says that she turns them off after sprout.

We grow a Thai Chile, jalapeno and Tabasco pepper. She makes a great hot sauce from a blend of the Thai and Tabasco peppers.
You should compare notes with @Sean the Nailer on making sauces. He has some of the best Ive tasted.

I've been getting into some Scorpion, Carolina Reapers, and Ghost Peppers. Ya gotta be really careful to wash your hands. Best to wear gloves.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DIBBS
Probably the best hot sauce I have tried, was made by a guy I worked with when I was in college. He made it with Serrano peppers.

He actually got me back to gardening too. He actually shot long range, and had a basement full of guns. I thought I had a "long range rifle" a 223 VLS shooting 55g SPs i borrowed from my dad. KS residents can drive around and shoot prairie dogs out the window with no hunting license {legally} . I took advantage of that while I was there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jeff Gahler
The idea of raised beds arrises from a need to avoid bending over, to work the plants, nothing more. in-ground emplacements can be amended (soil enriched) just as well, and weed abatement/avoidance can also be enhanced on the ground, vs a raised bed. Drainage issues and limited or controlled watering, can also be addresses adequately on the ground.
weeds, especially grass can enter at the bottom along the edge (where side joins bottom) and eventually sprout inside your box or other container, so unless you have it on legs, or the ground is covered with an impermeable liner wide enough to prevent crawling-type grass, your bed is going to bet invaded. The image earlier posted with large tarps under the beds with a wide apron for walking is a good example of what would work. Still, raised beds represented a cost I wasn't willing to expend for our large garden.
Starting in Autumn:
1. I tilled the garden area, and brought in 5 or 6 pickup loads of horse manure (i know, seeds. Shut up a minute and listen), cow manure and (seriously) Elephant manure!
2. retilled, and left it for the winter
3. Come spring, another 5-6 loads of horse manure. Tilled it in.
Raked it all into wide beds, about 3 ft wide, slightly higher than grade (about 4" total height).
4. Built 3 manifolds of PVC 1/2" pipe, with a hose connection, facing out, and three outlets facing opposite way on pipe. T's and Elbows. sufficiently wide enough to span across one end of the rows/beds.
5. Attached straight runs of 1/2" pvc pipe full length of rows. (hint: 1/2" 30 ft, adequate pressure for three runs, 40ft, use only two runs).
overhead water with sprinklers to get a good soak started, but not too muddy, so you can walk in the rows between beds.
6 drill either pre-planned 1/16 holes or wait until you begin planting.
7 cover with black plastic. Any other color will allow sunlight through. Black plastic will prevent germination, and any weeds that DO happen to try sprouting, hits the black plastic and burns. Black plastic must be of a heavy enough gauge to allow walking, and REUSE year to year. (Hint: If it comes on a roll, it is probably not thick enough. We used salvaged black plastic from a heap-leach mine, that had not been used for processing. The mine closed, and precut sheets were just lying there. Never got used. They went like hotcakes to spread under homes (crawlspace) and gardens. The black plastic is the absolute key to all of this.
8. use a drawing of your garden plan: allow for mature spread of plants and for crawling of vines, as well as shading from taller plants, and of course orientation of your plot and/or plantings.
9. Walk each row of the sun heated plastic sheeting, so it droops into each walking lane. Secure the edges and some rows, so that wind doesn't lift your garden cover.
10: Cut an x shaped hole, and dig out enough space to set your plant, drill a small (1/16 or smaller) hole in the exposed pipe, and push it to one side away from the hole. Set the plant appropriately (deep for tomatoes) and far enough apart for mature growth, space ina diamond repeating patern from both sides of the bed. Surround the hole with either newspaper or mulch, to prevent burning of young leaves.
11. Turn on each manifold and check adequate pressure at distant end.
Result: Far less watering, almost no weeds or weeding, no compression of the growing area soil, and by using scavenged materials, almost no cost. Scads of produce, and very little tending work. The install only took one good weekend with three teens and the wife assisting.
We didn't open a fruit stand, but we did have all we needed for our annual food storage, supplied all of our corn plus corn for a neighbor who's cattle had eaten all of theirs, and sold produce in the local mom and pop store.
If I can dig out the photos, I'll edit this post.
 
The idea of raised beds arrises from a need to avoid bending over, to work the plants, nothing more.
I disagree with this 110%. This is completely wrong.

The primary driver is not one single thing, but if I had to pick one, it would be maintaining the correct soil for what is being grown. Another big factor for me at least is there is a greatly reduced amount of weeding as well as use things like fertilizer or bug repellent in a much more useful way.

Planting in containers pretty much allows for the time you are working on plants---to actually be working on the plants you want hence it is substantially more efficient.
 
  • Like
Reactions: somewhereinmt
The idea of raised beds arrises from a need to avoid bending over, to work the plants, nothing more. in-ground emplacements can be amended (soil enriched) just as well, and weed abatement/avoidance can also be enhanced on the ground, vs a raised bed. Drainage issues and limited or controlled watering, can also be addresses adequately on the ground.
weeds, especially grass can enter at the bottom along the edge (where side joins bottom) and eventually sprout inside your box or other container, so unless you have it on legs, or the ground is covered with an impermeable liner wide enough to prevent crawling-type grass, your bed is going to bet invaded. The image earlier posted with large tarps under the beds with a wide apron for walking is a good example of what would work. Still, raised beds represented a cost I wasn't willing to expend for our large garden.
Starting in Autumn:
1. I tilled the garden area, and brought in 5 or 6 pickup loads of horse manure (i know, seeds. Shut up a minute and listen), cow manure and (seriously) Elephant manure!
2. retilled, and left it for the winter
3. Come spring, another 5-6 loads of horse manure. Tilled it in.
Raked it all into wide beds, about 3 ft wide, slightly higher than grade (about 4" total height).
4. Built 3 manifolds of PVC 1/2" pipe, with a hose connection, facing out, and three outlets facing opposite way on pipe. T's and Elbows. sufficiently wide enough to span across one end of the rows/beds.
5. Attached straight runs of 1/2" pvc pipe full length of rows. (hint: 1/2" 30 ft, adequate pressure for three runs, 40ft, use only two runs).
overhead water with sprinklers to get a good soak started, but not too muddy, so you can walk in the rows between beds.
6 drill either pre-planned 1/16 holes or wait until you begin planting.
7 cover with black plastic. Any other color will allow sunlight through. Black plastic will prevent germination, and any weeds that DO happen to try sprouting, hits the black plastic and burns. Black plastic must be of a heavy enough gauge to allow walking, and REUSE year to year. (Hint: If it comes on a roll, it is probably not thick enough. We used salvaged black plastic from a heap-leach mine, that had not been used for processing. The mine closed, and precut sheets were just lying there. Never got used. They went like hotcakes to spread under homes (crawlspace) and gardens. The black plastic is the absolute key to all of this.
8. use a drawing of your garden plan: allow for mature spread of plants and for crawling of vines, as well as shading from taller plants, and of course orientation of your plot and/or plantings.
9. Walk each row of the sun heated plastic sheeting, so it droops into each walking lane. Secure the edges and some rows, so that wind doesn't lift your garden cover.
10: Cut an x shaped hole, and dig out enough space to set your plant, drill a small (1/16 or smaller) hole in the exposed pipe, and push it to one side away from the hole. Set the plant appropriately (deep for tomatoes) and far enough apart for mature growth, space ina diamond repeating patern from both sides of the bed. Surround the hole with either newspaper or mulch, to prevent burning of young leaves.
11. Turn on each manifold and check adequate pressure at distant end.
Result: Far less watering, almost no weeds or weeding, no compression of the growing area soil, and by using scavenged materials, almost no cost. Scads of produce, and very little tending work. The install only took one good weekend with three teens and the wife assisting.
We didn't open a fruit stand, but we did have all we needed for our annual food storage, supplied all of our corn plus corn for a neighbor who's cattle had eaten all of theirs, and sold produce in the local mom and pop store.
If I can dig out the photos, I'll edit this post.
I would love to watch you try and till my yard. LOL
 
  • Like
Reactions: alamo5000
I disagree with this 110%. This is completely wrong.

The primary driver is not one single thing, but if I had to pick one, it would be maintaining the correct soil for what is being grown. Another big factor for me at least is there is a greatly reduced amount of weeding as well as use things like fertilizer or bug repellent in a much more useful way.

Planting in containers pretty much allows for the time you are working on plants---to actually be working on the plants you want hence it is substantially more efficient.
I would disagree partly, not 110%. Raised beds are to get on top of bad non draining clay or rocky soils. It is a deep mulch bedding system with a container around it. At least what people in this thread are showing as "raised beds." Traditionally, raised beds were done digging irrigation ditches, and moving the soil to the top of the bed beside the ditch so you could sub irrigate the beds. Think watermelon and potato mounds.

Reducing weed pressure is just as easy in ground as raised beds, fertilization too, and spraying bugs. About the only things i can think of that it really makes a difference would be trying to grow something that needs a low PH like blueberries in a place with alkaline soil and water.

Working on tall plants can be tough in a raised beds.

Everything is give and take.

I think one of the best things about raised beds is it stopped people from tilling, even if its just because they can't reach the soil layer.
 
Well guys, how did all those starts turn out that were posted in the spring ?
I have had both success and failures. For Montana, this was an early harvest season on many things.
Weeds over ran some of my stuff while I was trying to get my house and shop painted.
A very late frost knocked out some things and burned the leaves on my corn, which recovered.
Bush beans are in the canner as I write. Chickens got the tailings. Not much waste here.
IMG_0088.JPGIMG_0089 - Copy.JPGIMG_0087.JPG
 
Well guys, how did all those starts turn out that were posted in the spring ?
I have had both success and failures. For Montana, this was an early harvest season on many things.
Weeds over ran some of my stuff while I was trying to get my house and shop painted.
A very late frost knocked out some things and burned the leaves on my corn, which recovered.
Bush beans are in the canner as I write. Chickens got the tailings. Not much waste here.
View attachment 8196195View attachment 8196198View attachment 8196194
Some of my stuff turned out great.
Other stuff absolutely got cooked once the temps went up to standard Phoenix summer temps.
Which just means we have two very short growing seasons: in early spring and then fall.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hobo Hilton
This is my 6th season of growing here on my homestead. The lesson's Mother Nature teaches are brutal. Those folks with the 5 gallon bucket of "Seeds for Survival" will be disappointed when the time comes. Over the years I have "saved seeds" from my produce and I am just now seeing the hardiness begin to improve. Attempting to save seeds from GMO or any of the other hybrids has resulted in failure.
Some of my best plants are hung to dry and save seeds. Onions ready to put away.
IMG_0090.JPGIMG_0141.JPG
 
Last edited:
Late frost basically wasted most of my garden. Coming back but then a army of catapillars smoked through my kale in one damn day!!!! Chickens got them lil fuckers!
 
I found a great deal on galvanized steel roofing material last year, 8 and 12 foot lengths, that I used to build this beds. They are 8 feet long, 3 feet wide and just over 2 feet tall. First three I framed using peeler cores. Was a PIA and took a long time to put together with those so the next three I used 2x4s. Much faster. Found DIY plans on line for how to build.

Used sod at the bottom that I got from leveling out the beds, then wood chips and then a mix of composted cow manure and top soil. What was planted grew very well. Height makes it much easier to work the beds. Looking forward to planting some stuff here in a few weeks.

View attachment 8099145

gets too hot down here to do that…literally cooks the plants. Lining them to keep the roots away from the metal helps, but it generally just delays the inevitable.

Too bad too…love the way those look.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jeff Gahler
Well I have been slammed at work (drug addicts abound 🫤) and squash bugs moved in and ruined squash and zucchini 😵 Happened in just a few days. I had to pull the squash and zucchini but I saved the cukes…..I think. Damn things are insidious.

Peppers and tomatoes are doing well, have picked green beans once, corn is doing well.

The Yukon Gold potatoes seem to be doing great. The vines are starting to have some brown so they're moving toward maturity.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jeff Gahler
This is my 6th season of growing here on my homestead. The lesson's Mother Nature teaches are brutal. Those folks with the 5 gallon bucket of "Seeds for Survival" will be disappointed when the time comes. Over the years I have "saved seeds" from my produce and I am just now seeing the hardiness begin to improve. Attempting to save seeds from GMO or any of the other hybrids has resulted in failure.
Some of my best plants are hung to dry and save seeds.
View attachment 8196202
You still don't have any GMO seeds. Those who were smart enough to save heirloom seeds wont have much weirdness. Rarely some with have mutations, then that mutation can be bread for if it is desirable.

Horse manure is most likely to have kinds of residual herbicide that will last through composting. I have seen it happen to a few people. I thought I has something of sort happening, but it turned out to be herbicide in the canal water.

I am not a particularly big fan manure, especially un-composted manure. ITs a great source of weed seeds and pathogens.

Absolutely nothing has zero residual activity, water causes residual activity.

We got the grasshoppers this year. If this was a homestead, we would be fat on them, and canning them like hell for winter. :ROFLMAO:

My mom asked what I was going to do, and I told here I was hoping it would hail so hard it smashed them all. :ROFLMAO: I have killed sevral thousand with soap traps so far.
 
Last edited:
Horse manure is most likely to have kinds of residual herbicide that will last through composting.
Tordon type products

Sprayed on hay to kill / prevent broad leaves. Still active after it goes through the animal and is in manure
 
View attachment 8196645

Roundup has *zero* residual activity.




Lots of you people have no idea what you are talking about
The photo shows an area of about 100 square feet. After several seasons of spraying Canada thistle the area is eroding because grass will not grow there. Roundup is residual.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0094.JPG
    IMG_0094.JPG
    1.2 MB · Views: 23
  • Haha
Reactions: Jeff Gahler
The photo shows an area of about 100 square feet. After several seasons of spraying Canada thistle the area is eroding because grass will not grow there. Roundup is residual.
Till that up I’m sure grass will grow there. Looks like a compaction / water issue as much as anything


Roundup is terrible at killing thistle. Use 24d and or dicamba

Not that they call things Roundup that aren’t actually glyphosphate I wonder if you actually sprayed that with something else.
 
Looking at a garden at new place in middle GA. We have lots of deer (wife thinks anything on property that is not a predator or venomous is her pets - cannot hunt the deer at house) - how to keep deer and similar out of garden? High fence?
 
Looking at a garden at new place in middle GA. We have lots of deer (wife thinks anything on property that is not a predator or venomous is her pets - cannot hunt the deer at house) - how to keep deer and similar out of garden? High fence?
Electric fence.
3D fence
Tall woven wire fence.




They sell thermal scopes and .22 suppressors every day.

Heck a good air gun would be effective
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lightning8
Till that up I’m sure grass will grow there. Looks like a compaction / water issue as much as anything


Roundup is terrible at killing thistle. Use 24d and or dicamba

Not that they call things Roundup that aren’t actually glyphosphate I wonder if you actually sprayed that with something else.
I'm going to step up to Chaparral™ herbicide after I water more and get the grass healthier.
 
gets too hot down here to do that…literally cooks the plants. Lining them to keep the roots away from the metal helps, but it generally just delays the inevitable.

Too bad too…love the way those look.
For us, raising the soil temp some helps. We are 15 miles inland from the ocean. A hot day here is when it gets over 80 degrees. And cold is when there is frost.

Lots of discussion about primary reason for raised beds. For me it is easier to maintain smaller areas for weed control, soil conditioning, and picking vegetables because I don't have to reach down to the ground to work on stuff. Figure as I get older, that will be even more important. I like growing stuff but don't want to have to spend lots of time doing it. Have too many other projects to work on and need to go fishing.
 
Here in Montana, Mother nature is speaking and few are listening. Those 4th generation cattlemen are listening close.
What I am seeing:
Those trees that usually change color in late September are changing colors now.
Apple trees dropped their fruit on 2 different events. Few apples remain and they are small.
Garden produce matured early... Potatoes, onions and garlic. Corn is lagging way behind.
Geese born this spring have not flocked up and are learning to fly in a V formation. Fun to watch, like a toddler learning to walk.
I have started covering my garden boxes for the winter.
Cattlemen are culling anything that looks like it will have a difficult time surviving a hard winter. Thinning the heard and moving them into the valley about a month early.
I would like to hear some forecast from other regions of America. How is it looking ?
IMG_0161.JPG
Thinning some late planted carrots
IMG_0162.JPG
 
Doing a little update on my garden for this year. If you look earlier in this thread you can see pictures of my water trough setup. This is my first year doing it like that so I was letting everyone know how it's been going and how I did it, what I learned etc.

First off, I started with a total of 12 tomato plants. Initially I had planned to start some "replacement plants" for a fall garden. As of now I didn't need to do that. Out of my 12 plants I have 10 remaining. This is surprising since this year we've had historic heat. For over two months straight the daytime temps never got below 100 degrees F. It was between 103 degrees and 112 degrees every day for over two months straight.

What I did was (when it started getting crazy hot) I basically created a 'tent' over my beds using 50% shade cloth. During that time the fruit production was very low however the plants remained largely healthy. That said, two of them got some type of plant disease so I pulled them before it spread.

The shade cloth tents basically reduced the actual temperature around the plants by 10-15 degrees. The ambient temperature was pretty hot still but removing the direct sunlight definitely helped them from getting sunburned and dying.

Now they are flowering again and temps are starting to come down some. I'm hoping to get a good fall harvest but we will see. The highs now are in the low to mid 90s so I pulled the shade cloth down a couple of weeks ago and they seem to be doing good. Basically the plants were under my 'shade' for about two months or so.

Another excellent thing that I did was to prune the plants as I went, but more than that I kept all of them completely off the ground. Leaves touching the ground is probably the primary reason for plant disease.

My fertilizer that I've been using is called MasterBlend. When the plants are small I used Miracle Grow to encourage leaf growth. A few other times I used Miracle Grow as well to keep them looking good, maybe 2-3 times the whole year. Every other time I used the MasterBlend mixed up according to the directions. I fertilized at least one time per week using the Master Blend. It definitely helped increase flowering and tomato growth (same with peppers too). As a side note I didn't have a single case of blossom end rot all year so far. Master Blend has a permanent place in my garden from now on.

As you can see in my photos I have layers of cattle panels that the plants grew up through as support. I ALSO used string and tomato clips.

Next year I will probably use just string and tomato clips and minimize the amount of cattle panels. The panels will work just fine but the string method is better for me. I still might use the panels but only up high, or just the top two levels or something next time.

One other thing that I will explore is how the very top of the t-posts and all that is done. Putting the shade cloth on was a small pain but very useful. If I can figure out another way to construct a temporary 'roof' it will make that job a little bit easier and it will look better.

Aside from those few tweaks I will be doing pretty much the same thing next year. Another thing that I will do is to make sure everything is on level ground. When the containers are sitting on a slope all the water tends to run to the lower end. Over the course of summer one end of the container has a lot more soil than the other end so I was having to re distribute it from time to time. Also if you are not careful this can lead to the plants on the high end getting less water than the other end.
 
Just made and canned (jar'd ? (because jarred doesn't look right)) about 2 gallons of salsa verde yesterday.
Jalapenos, serranos, ancho, anaheim/hatch, hungarian wax, poblanos, thai, and probably a couple other chili types I'm forgetting.
Garlic
Mexican oregano (none of that italian shit)
Cumin
Achiote (annato) paste
Black pepper
Brown Onion
Cider vinegar
Cilantro
Tomatillos
Roast all the veggies till a little browning occurs.
Cool
Toss it all in a blender (several loads) and then into a huge pot.
Simmer for about an hour.
Strain thru a wire mesh sifter.
Jar the shit out of it :)
Got about 25'ish 1/2 pint jars good to go, no tops failed to *pop* down.
It's hot, but not too hot. Clean burn that goes away quick and doesn't build up on you.
Very mexican taqueria type salsa verde and I would label it as medium/hot....perfect for tacos.
 
  • Love
  • Like
Reactions: Jgunner and DIBBS
It is now "seed saving" time. Some of my produce is from the 3rd or 4 generation of seed saving from my garden. I can see things starting to acclimate to the Montana environment. Look around your area and buy some local grown produce strictly for the seeds you can save for your spring planting. The majority of things you see at your local farmer's market are grown with hybrid seeds. Beware.

1696363214589.png
 
https://www.americanpartisan.org/2023/03/next-level-raised-bed-gardens-48-culvert-pipe/

If there would be a way to get used or damaged ones it might not be a bad idea.

Buying new ones might be rather expensive. Along those lines, if you wanted a large garden set up like this it would be expensive.

Thoughts?
Yes, older post... Timeless.
The time to start your garden is today. Even if it is a 5 gallon bucket and a bag of potting soil to grow a tomato plant on your apartment balcony. You will need the knowledge more than the produce.
I get some of my highest quality seeds here.
 
In the beginning of this thread, it was stated to 'plant radishes' and they'll tell you all you need to know about the growing conditions. Or something along that line.

Anyone want to add to that, explain?
 
In the beginning of this thread, it was stated to 'plant radishes' and they'll tell you all you need to know about the growing conditions. Or something along that line.

Anyone want to add to that, explain?
The same way you would tell with any other plant. If they don't grow well, the soil is proabaly poor. Radishes are just really fast from planting to maturity. They are pass fail though, they certainly don't tell you everything.
 
Compost, when we clean out the chicken coops it goes in the compost pile, in the fall the leaves are shredded and used to cover the garden and the remainder are added and I'll add a cubic yard of cow pie to it along with the household food scraps and grass clippings.
We control weeds with cardboard. In a couple weeks I will till the leaves in. Then I will run the soaker lines down each row. They are fed rain water collected in 450 gallon tanks. Then cardboard is used to cover between the rows. (Remove the stickers and tape) It will degrade and add to the dirt. A deep cover of straw will also help with weeds and keep moisture in the soil.

A simple solution to avoid bending to working the garden is to have the wife do that part. I do the prep and she does the rest. Except for breaking beans.
Agree. Good work !
Composting is great for the soil ! The microbes really help rejuvenate the soil and the plants come alive. Save all the kitchen vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, some cardboard, and all leaves and grass clippings go in the big compost piles outside . Even put some directly in the soiltohelpfees the worms there. A worm bin is great too! Recommend Worm Factory 360 with red wigglers for small household stuff. I raise a bunch of worms then move them out to the garden throughout the year. Started this year using cover crops to help build diversity in the soil and also to replace nitrogen. Last year started using Bokashi too. This way you can compost meats and dairy and everything- so there is no waste. After the Bokashi is ready - I mix it in the worm bins and also put in my soil and compost bins..
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hobo Hilton
So you guys are the problem. Especially those of you growing in the urban areas. And don't forget to register your garden:

 
"Study" :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: Your urban garden might have a bigger carbon footprint than..... What load of horse shit. Its sad that they call anyones group of random thoughts and wild ass guesses a study anymore if it tows the green line.
 
So you guys are the problem. Especially those of you growing in the urban areas. And don't forget to register your garden:

At some point, we will all be outlaws.
An old retired guy, growing a garden is prohibited from harvesting potatoes and bringing them to his daughter, across town, so she can feed his grand children. Against the "Government Laws" to transport potatoes that are not certified.

Similar to raw milk. Many children can not tolerate "processed" milk. Federal Government has shut down many, many dairymen for selling raw milk straight to a parent.

At the federal level, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) bans the interstate sale or distribution of raw milk. All milk sold across state lines must be pasteurized and meet the standards of the US Pasteurized Milk Ordinance.

 
At some point, we will all be outlaws.
An old retired guy, growing a garden is prohibited from harvesting potatoes and bringing them to his daughter, across town, so she can feed his grand children. Against the "Government Laws" to transport potatoes that are not certified.

Similar to raw milk. Many children can not tolerate "processed" milk. Federal Government has shut down many, many dairymen for selling raw milk straight to a parent.

At the federal level, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) bans the interstate sale or distribution of raw milk. All milk sold across state lines must be pasteurized and meet the standards of the US Pasteurized Milk Ordinance.

Whats the story behind the potato story? The only potato certifications I am aware of are for seed potatoes.

While some may not understand the possibilities that come from moving plants around. Several billion american chestnut trees died as a result of an orchard bringing in some Chinese chestnut trees. IT literally erased the upper canopy of from thousands of square miles of our eastern forests.
 
How are you guys dealing with voles? The only thing I have been able to do to get around them is save all of the soup/food cans - I punch holes in them and cut both ends off fully so that I have essentially a perforated pipe. I put the seedlings in those so that the tap root is protected when the digging and tunneling starts. They may hit root runners but the plant doesn't die because the tap root was protected. Its kind of a pain but it works. if I could find a better way to control them I would use it. With every fiber of my being I hate those things. The healthier the soil, the more worms and then the more voles. Fuckers.
 
At some point, we will all be outlaws.
An old retired guy, growing a garden is prohibited from harvesting potatoes and bringing them to his daughter, across town, so she can feed his grand children. Against the "Government Laws" to transport potatoes that are not certified.

Similar to raw milk. Many children can not tolerate "processed" milk. Federal Government has shut down many, many dairymen for selling raw milk straight to a parent.

At the federal level, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) bans the interstate sale or distribution of raw milk. All milk sold across state lines must be pasteurized and meet the standards of the US Pasteurized Milk Ordinance.

I think we are already there in regards to being outlaws. Seems I remember a study that there were x number of laws that the average person was violating if the powers that be wanted to nail you. One example is that silly law in Colorado about collecting rain water.
What is going on with the farmers in Europe should have all of us concerned now. Very little reporting on it. In the end, it's all about control and a return to monarchies.
How are you guys dealing with voles? The only thing I have been able to do to get around them is save all of the soup/food cans - I punch holes in them and cut both ends off fully so that I have essentially a perforated pipe. I put the seedlings in those so that the tap root is protected when the digging and tunneling starts. They may hit root runners but the plant doesn't die because the tap root was protected. Its kind of a pain but it works. if I could find a better way to control them I would use it. With every fiber of my being I hate those things. The healthier the soil, the more worms and then the more voles. Fuckers.

You might want to take a look at utube and a gardener series "Gardening with Jenna" If I recall, she tried everything and eventually went with poison to get rid of them. Good luck.