any recommendations besides Spuhr? wanting to go with 1 piece if possible. Be handling the recoil of 6.5CM
good quality scope mounts ?
- Thread starter jinxx4ever
- Start date
ARC mount. ARC rings have become my favorite rings and I’ve had nearly everything out there.
What are your expected distances to want to be a ble to shoot?
The AR-10 will have a flat top rail while the RPR has a 20 MOA rail on top. Be sure you factor that in when buying your one-piece mount. You can buy a replacement 0 MOA rail for the RPR then get a 20 MOA one-piece mount from any of the companies listed.
The AR-10 will have a flat top rail while the RPR has a 20 MOA rail on top. Be sure you factor that in when buying your one-piece mount. You can buy a replacement 0 MOA rail for the RPR then get a 20 MOA one-piece mount from any of the companies listed.
Ranier Arms sells a new low profile Bobro which is about the same height as standard low scope rings but still QD.
PRI sells a nice large frame AR extended Picatinny riser rail (flat, 20 MOA or 30 MOA). Low rings on a riser puts a scope at the right height for my cheek weld, very similar to most one piece AR scope mounts.
If you get those two you should be able to move a scope between a bolt action and an AR. Wether that's a great idea is a bit debatable.
If you go that way, you should know that the Bobro has minimal clearance for the turret bell, some scopes will have issues (my Tract Toric 30mm is very close, I need to see if I can actually level it, but it's not like the Toric turret bell is abnormally large).
I'm building up a combo like that with a 20 MOA riser to match my bolt action rail slope but it will be a while before I fully wring it out and check for RTZ when moving it between the two.
PRI sells a nice large frame AR extended Picatinny riser rail (flat, 20 MOA or 30 MOA). Low rings on a riser puts a scope at the right height for my cheek weld, very similar to most one piece AR scope mounts.
If you get those two you should be able to move a scope between a bolt action and an AR. Wether that's a great idea is a bit debatable.
If you go that way, you should know that the Bobro has minimal clearance for the turret bell, some scopes will have issues (my Tract Toric 30mm is very close, I need to see if I can actually level it, but it's not like the Toric turret bell is abnormally large).
I'm building up a combo like that with a 20 MOA riser to match my bolt action rail slope but it will be a while before I fully wring it out and check for RTZ when moving it between the two.
We just made a new batch of our RRS 1.26" 20 MOA Uni-Block mounts for 34mm. Listing says out of satock but the batch is so new we haven't updated inventory levels.
http://soar.reallyrightstuff.com/Un...stcol39=2&custcol40=3&custcol41=1&custcol42=1
http://soar.reallyrightstuff.com/Un...stcol39=2&custcol40=3&custcol41=1&custcol42=1
i guess i should have clarified this a little more, i won't b moving the scope between the 2. I currently have a NF SHV on the RPR. I have a Gen 2 PST 5-25x50 coming in this week along with a Athlon Cornus BTR. No problems with the NF, just not above trying some of the new kids on the block after reading some very good reviews from some of the members on here.
I have a JP mount that I have been pleased with. My zero has never moved. They are priced a lot better than a lot of similar mounts too.
https://www.jprifles.com/1.6.3.6.php
There are no downsides to having a 20moa mount. It just means you are less likely to run out of scope adjustment when you are shooting a long distance.
https://www.jprifles.com/1.6.3.6.php
There are no downsides to having a 20moa mount. It just means you are less likely to run out of scope adjustment when you are shooting a long distance.
Sure. If you are buying a mount for each rifle then get a 0 MOA for the RPR and a 20 MOA mount for the AR-10. Get a rough idea what your ballistics will look like out to about 1200 yards. Then look at the adjustment range available in the scope and see if you have enough to dial for shots that long. That will help you determine if you even need some cant to your mount.
Example: I was at a match that had a shot at 1182 yards. My dope called for 52.25 MOA. Even with my 20 MOA rail I didn’t have enough to dial that much. So I dialed 42.25 then held over 10 MOA. Had I not had a canted rail I would have had enough to dial to 42.25, only about 25 and I would have had to hold another 27 MOA, which the scope didn’t have on the reticle.
You’re not going to encounter many problems by adding 20 MOA somewhere in your setup. But doubling up like adding a 20 MOA mount on a 20 MOA rail may cause so much cant that you cannot get a 100 yard zero.
Example: I was at a match that had a shot at 1182 yards. My dope called for 52.25 MOA. Even with my 20 MOA rail I didn’t have enough to dial that much. So I dialed 42.25 then held over 10 MOA. Had I not had a canted rail I would have had enough to dial to 42.25, only about 25 and I would have had to hold another 27 MOA, which the scope didn’t have on the reticle.
You’re not going to encounter many problems by adding 20 MOA somewhere in your setup. But doubling up like adding a 20 MOA mount on a 20 MOA rail may cause so much cant that you cannot get a 100 yard zero.
appreciate all the info, i've looked at several mentioned on here today. Darn scopes will get here before my mounts do, No hurry though, would rather get it right the first time. You've given me some things to consider i might have overlooked. thanks again
I would go for 20 MOA. Your scope has 68.8 MOA of adjustment (let's call it 68). We'll say your 100yd zero is dialing up 2 from center (don't get confused: we are calling this dialing up because it brings the impact up, but it is actually making your scope look down). That leaves you with 32 you can dial up and 36 you can dial down. But you will never need to dial down for elevation! If you had your scope in a 20 MOA mount, you would instead have 52 you could dial up and 16 you could dial down (which again, you will never need). 52 MOA of adjustment is better than 32 MOA of adjustment. Simple as that.
Personally, they feel less robust than some other options. And they sell vertically split mounts. Whatever you do, stay away from vertically split!
I have one of these, and it is REALLY nice. It's got a built in leveling system. Bubble level in the back. Fit and finish are extremely well done... it's a very fine scope mount. All the edges are nice and rounded, nothing to snag or bump on things. The mfg specs 15 in/lbs for all the hardware (ring caps and base clamps.) I've made sure to torque to those values every time, and haven't used Loktite. I've noted outstanding and repeatable return to zero.
Prior to this, I had a Spuhr. While it is a very nice mount, I don't see spending the extra money on one over a RRS unless you need to strap on a bunch of extra gadgets and stuff.
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Care to clarify? I'm interested to hear your experience & opinions as I've had only good luck so far with my LT104's. Granted, I'm not really pushing them- 300yds on a 5.56 isn't exactly asking much from a mounting system.
I've had good luck with the nightforce one piece mounts, esp on the gas guns. You can get 0 moa or 20 moa and diff heights of course. Ive got a friend that likes his badger ordnance one piece mount.
I am drawing on others' experience. There was a long thread on vertically split rings, but it has been disappearing and reappearing. If you can find it, I suggest giving it a read.
I have a LT104 & the vertical split rings suck shit, worthless in my opinion, also the QD system is just OK, have a Bobro on another AR & its a much better mount, also just switched out my Larue Harris QD bipod mount for an ADM Harris Bipod QD mount, much better QD mount for the Harris, use Spuhr on all my bolt rifles.
So with LaRue’s warranty you called, reported the issue, and received a refund correct? Just trying to understand. I’ve never had a problem with their products. I did order the wrong part once. They exchanged it and covered shipping. So in your case with a defective product I’m guessing they went above and beyond that?
I’ll echo this sentiment. I sold my Spuhr mounts and use these RRS mounts when I can. Aesthetically pleasing and functional, no extra shit, and at a reasonable cost. Not too many options height and cant wise, but enough to cover the majority of users and I can understand the desire not to carry/stock 50 SKUs of ring mounts.
I love my Sphurs but Near Manufacturing Alpha mount is probably my finest machines mount I own as are his rails. Dont let the size fool you it weighs 2oz less than a set of steel rings- believe its a titanium alloy. Interesting guy to talk with too- seems most of the record long shots made by the Canadian snipers were all using that mount. Once you get hooked on his stuff nothing else will really do.
There is a Near Mfg Alphamount for sale in the optics section, just saying...
Near Alphanounts are among the very best
Near Alphanounts are among the very best
Interesting... Apparently on this forum there's no love for the LaRue "vertically split" mounts even though they don't suffer from uneven torque from top mount to pic rail. I'm an engineer and I understand the potential stress differentials that could be caused by vertically split rings that attach directly from optic to a rail. However with the LaRue mounts such as the LT104 or LT139, the only issues with uneven torqe that I have seen is when they have been installed improperly. The QD mounts need to be used sensibly as well; It's a precision instrument and needs to be treated as such. If you have the QD lever tension all jacked up or a cerakoted or heavily rattle canned upper you may have issues returning to zero.
I'm not by any means claiming that the LaRue QD mounts are the pinnacle of precision, but it seems more often than not people are avoiding certain products without actually thinking and just jumping on a bandwagon. (In this case because of one thread in particular, which actually has very little relevance regarding these particular mounts)
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have been very happy with mine on my 6 mm creed
also run the vortex match rings on my 6.5 also happy with them
Badger is all I use anymore, partly because they'll fit a USO ER25/LR17 with the large erector, but mainly because they're just the best made for the price IMO. They don't have any gimmicks. I use their SASR rings on a .50BMG HTI and it holds that damn thing rock solid under recoil and it has by far the most brutal recoil of any shoulder fired weapon I've used. They sell rings and mounts that are also compatible with CNVD's but cover a variety of heights. They sell various ring caps from SIMRAD mounts, rail sections to ACI mounts, etc. Simple, solid, well made. They don't need any additional work like honing and rings are SN matched. These are the rings the military uses on various sniper rifles, FWIW.
ERA-TAC looks good IF you need one with adjustable cant. They're expensive, but not many do this, and they have a helluva range --something like 0-60MOA. If they'd made one that would accommodate the USO scope and also line up to the CNVD at 0MOA, I'd probably have went with this for the .50 or any other seriously long range rifles. (Why DTA didn't make the entire top rail 30MOA or so, I'll never know).
USO makes a solid set of rings that can be adjusted horizontally in order to zero windage to center if desired. Costly and a bit of a pain in the ass to setup, but they do work and are very well made.
Then there's Spuhr, Aadmount, etc., but Badger impressed me so much and since I do use CNVD's, they made a lot of sense. And I like it that I can mount the ACI on the cap.
ERA-TAC looks good IF you need one with adjustable cant. They're expensive, but not many do this, and they have a helluva range --something like 0-60MOA. If they'd made one that would accommodate the USO scope and also line up to the CNVD at 0MOA, I'd probably have went with this for the .50 or any other seriously long range rifles. (Why DTA didn't make the entire top rail 30MOA or so, I'll never know).
USO makes a solid set of rings that can be adjusted horizontally in order to zero windage to center if desired. Costly and a bit of a pain in the ass to setup, but they do work and are very well made.
Then there's Spuhr, Aadmount, etc., but Badger impressed me so much and since I do use CNVD's, they made a lot of sense. And I like it that I can mount the ACI on the cap.
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