Gunsmithing Grizzly gunsmith lathe
- Thread starter Sidk
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Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
I talked to them at their first Shot Show and placed my order, with a guranteed date of delivery. Nothing- not for 8 months. NEVER did get it.
I crawled all over both versions at the show and really liked them for what they are. Ended up I got a different model without all the 'Gunsmith' features for about the same money. Since then I have made modifications and utilized it with great success. Give it a shot, IF you can get one.
I talked to them at their first Shot Show and placed my order, with a guranteed date of delivery. Nothing- not for 8 months. NEVER did get it.
I crawled all over both versions at the show and really liked them for what they are. Ended up I got a different model without all the 'Gunsmith' features for about the same money. Since then I have made modifications and utilized it with great success. Give it a shot, IF you can get one.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
CorBon Ammunition has/had one that they used. I helped a little with setting it up, etc.
For the price, it was hard to beat. Is it on par with a high end tool room lathe? No, but that is an apples/oranges comparison too.
Treat it with respect, use it with care, and remember what it is.
It'll likely last a lifetime's worth of gun plumbing.
CorBon Ammunition has/had one that they used. I helped a little with setting it up, etc.
For the price, it was hard to beat. Is it on par with a high end tool room lathe? No, but that is an apples/oranges comparison too.
Treat it with respect, use it with care, and remember what it is.
It'll likely last a lifetime's worth of gun plumbing.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
Which model I have the 12" and love it there are a few rough edges but its hard to beat the price vs quality.
Which model I have the 12" and love it there are a few rough edges but its hard to beat the price vs quality.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
Been running one for a few years now and like it a lot. At this point I use it more for things other than gunsmithing but it’s done everything that I’ve asked of it. It’ll hold the tolerances that I’m shooting for but I’m not building parts for the space shuttle either. It’ll build guns no problem.
Would I buy it again? You bet! Unless I didn’t decide to go for the G0709 instead.
What don’t I like about it? The outboard spider is a bit cheesy because there’s not much meat for the screws which are not NF, some of the oil ports don’t seem to take oil very well, shifting gears can be annoying if I’m in a hurry (but it beats changing belts), and I wish my carriage wouldn’t leak oil. As you can see, most of the above are nit picky things that one can work around.
What else don’t I like about it? It has cost me a bunch of $$ for tooling! I added a DRO which is extremely handy. I also added Grizzly’s tailstock DRO which is great for drilling/milling/whatever to depth . . . even though that little gizmo is a tad overpriced.
Still, at a little over $3K for the machine, it's hard to beat.
Been running one for a few years now and like it a lot. At this point I use it more for things other than gunsmithing but it’s done everything that I’ve asked of it. It’ll hold the tolerances that I’m shooting for but I’m not building parts for the space shuttle either. It’ll build guns no problem.
Would I buy it again? You bet! Unless I didn’t decide to go for the G0709 instead.
What don’t I like about it? The outboard spider is a bit cheesy because there’s not much meat for the screws which are not NF, some of the oil ports don’t seem to take oil very well, shifting gears can be annoying if I’m in a hurry (but it beats changing belts), and I wish my carriage wouldn’t leak oil. As you can see, most of the above are nit picky things that one can work around.
What else don’t I like about it? It has cost me a bunch of $$ for tooling! I added a DRO which is extremely handy. I also added Grizzly’s tailstock DRO which is great for drilling/milling/whatever to depth . . . even though that little gizmo is a tad overpriced.
Still, at a little over $3K for the machine, it's hard to beat.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
I have the G0709 and it works well for whatever i do. Guns and Steam Engines.
I have the G0709 and it works well for whatever i do. Guns and Steam Engines.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
I started out with the G4003G and at the time, I had no intentions of building for others or getting an FFL, the rest is history as they say
With the G4003G I was able to dial a barrel in to .0002" TIR with care and the issued four jaw and .0001" with the spider chuck. The headstock bearings are Timken and are of very good quality although you will have to re-adjust them after about 6 months. The out board spider was a little weak but, thats a simple fix.
The carriage leaked but not too bad. The motor and gears are noisey at the lower/slower speeds but quitens down at 800rpm or so. The machine is very capable of producing quality work and very accurate rifles can be built using it.
Over all, the machine was a good investment at just under $2,900 when I purchased it new. You'll still need quality tooling but thats with any machine. I learned a lot while using the G4003G and really enjoyed it while I had it although I did out grow it. I sold it to an old friend and he's already built a rifle for him self using it.
For the beginer, it's a perfect machine that'll bring many years of good service.
I started out with the G4003G and at the time, I had no intentions of building for others or getting an FFL, the rest is history as they say
With the G4003G I was able to dial a barrel in to .0002" TIR with care and the issued four jaw and .0001" with the spider chuck. The headstock bearings are Timken and are of very good quality although you will have to re-adjust them after about 6 months. The out board spider was a little weak but, thats a simple fix.
The carriage leaked but not too bad. The motor and gears are noisey at the lower/slower speeds but quitens down at 800rpm or so. The machine is very capable of producing quality work and very accurate rifles can be built using it.
Over all, the machine was a good investment at just under $2,900 when I purchased it new. You'll still need quality tooling but thats with any machine. I learned a lot while using the G4003G and really enjoyed it while I had it although I did out grow it. I sold it to an old friend and he's already built a rifle for him self using it.
For the beginer, it's a perfect machine that'll bring many years of good service.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
I have one also, great lathe for the price. I have put together a couple rifles that shoot very well. If your married hide all your tooling catalogs, it may upset the beast
Kc
I have one also, great lathe for the price. I have put together a couple rifles that shoot very well. If your married hide all your tooling catalogs, it may upset the beast
Kc
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
I have just gotten my 4003G setup (as in made first chips with it less than 24hrs ago). So far I don't regret the purchase, for the price it seems to be a very well made machine.
I have just gotten my 4003G setup (as in made first chips with it less than 24hrs ago). So far I don't regret the purchase, for the price it seems to be a very well made machine.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
I've got the G4003, which is the machine from before they were marketing it as a "gunsmith" tool.
You get what you pay for. It's a decent lathe; good size [I just profiled a 27" BBL blank last week], reasonable quality, and the price is right. I have had a handful of small parts break on the machine, which were easily replaced with stuff from my scrap-bin. The notable exception is the $200 switch that broke on it; wasn't happy about that in the least.
It's no Hardinge, Monarch, etc, but it does get the job done.
I've got the G4003, which is the machine from before they were marketing it as a "gunsmith" tool.
You get what you pay for. It's a decent lathe; good size [I just profiled a 27" BBL blank last week], reasonable quality, and the price is right. I have had a handful of small parts break on the machine, which were easily replaced with stuff from my scrap-bin. The notable exception is the $200 switch that broke on it; wasn't happy about that in the least.
It's no Hardinge, Monarch, etc, but it does get the job done.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ugsly</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have one also, great lathe for the price. I have put together a couple rifles that shoot very well. If your married hide all your tooling catalogs, it may upset the beast
Kc </div></div>
Excellent replies guys. I had to laugh at the beast comment. My wife may not be a knock down beauty queen but she never stops me from buying what I want, ever. I'm super lucky in that respect.
I did read some other threads about this lathe but some of them were pretty old and I figured by now more people have had a chance to use this one.
I need to find a home for it now.
Question, I'm reading the instructions and it says to bolt it to the floor. Did you all bolt yours down?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ugsly</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have one also, great lathe for the price. I have put together a couple rifles that shoot very well. If your married hide all your tooling catalogs, it may upset the beast
Kc </div></div>
Excellent replies guys. I had to laugh at the beast comment. My wife may not be a knock down beauty queen but she never stops me from buying what I want, ever. I'm super lucky in that respect.
I did read some other threads about this lathe but some of them were pretty old and I figured by now more people have had a chance to use this one.
I need to find a home for it now.
Question, I'm reading the instructions and it says to bolt it to the floor. Did you all bolt yours down?
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
I have a plate that spans the whole length of both stands that I can bolt to the floor and adjust to level. I haven't put it down yet but the gentlemen before me that had it said it was much more solid with it bolted down.
Ive heard both ways, some say bolt them down & some say not to.
My wife is pretty good about me buying stuff. Ive got her trained, she even puts my packages in the shop. Tooling adds up in a hurry
Kc
I have a plate that spans the whole length of both stands that I can bolt to the floor and adjust to level. I haven't put it down yet but the gentlemen before me that had it said it was much more solid with it bolted down.
Ive heard both ways, some say bolt them down & some say not to.
My wife is pretty good about me buying stuff. Ive got her trained, she even puts my packages in the shop. Tooling adds up in a hurry
Kc
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
Bolt down vs. Don't bolt down = so-so performance either way, with the hat being tipped more towards the machine being bolted down.
<span style="font-size: 26pt">BUT</span>
Bolt down + Level + Align/Plumb/Square = the BASIS of performance, reliability, repeatability, and longevity of the machine.
Just think of what a 'clutch-alignment tool' does when you're installing a tranny, and/or what the difference is in driving your car BEFORE and AFTER a front end alignment.
Now think of that same principle when dealing with numbers as small as 0.001", or even into the tenthousandths, not to mention the repeatability of doing the same thing twice.
Don't take this wrong, y'all, but I can't believe we're talking about this here on THIS site. This sub-topic is sorta a-kin to debating scope mounting equipment between a 10" or a 12" Crescent Wrench. Which is better?
Bolt down vs. Don't bolt down = so-so performance either way, with the hat being tipped more towards the machine being bolted down.
<span style="font-size: 26pt">BUT</span>
Bolt down + Level + Align/Plumb/Square = the BASIS of performance, reliability, repeatability, and longevity of the machine.
Just think of what a 'clutch-alignment tool' does when you're installing a tranny, and/or what the difference is in driving your car BEFORE and AFTER a front end alignment.
Now think of that same principle when dealing with numbers as small as 0.001", or even into the tenthousandths, not to mention the repeatability of doing the same thing twice.
Don't take this wrong, y'all, but I can't believe we're talking about this here on THIS site. This sub-topic is sorta a-kin to debating scope mounting equipment between a 10" or a 12" Crescent Wrench. Which is better?
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
I made 8 4"x4" steel plates to act as feet for mine. Welded 3/4x 4" all-thread studs to the "feet". Nut and washer on the bottom and in the slots on the bases. Set machine up. Anchored feet to the floor. Use the nuts to level the machine. Worked very well.
I made 8 4"x4" steel plates to act as feet for mine. Welded 3/4x 4" all-thread studs to the "feet". Nut and washer on the bottom and in the slots on the bases. Set machine up. Anchored feet to the floor. Use the nuts to level the machine. Worked very well.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
I used there Machine Mounts #G7159 (6) worked very well on my G0709 Lathe.
I used there Machine Mounts #G7159 (6) worked very well on my G0709 Lathe.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sin City Shooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Question, I'm reading the instructions and it says to bolt it to the floor. Did you all bolt yours down? </div></div>
Dont bolt down the machine. With the ground moving 24/7 it's a matter of time before the bed ways twist and vibration sets in. Remember, this is a very light machine.
I bolted mine down at first with jam nuts to level by and the vibration was extreme. I then used leveling pads from MSC and a machinist level to set it up. Ran like a top at that point but, even after being leveled it cut with a slight taper. The fix was a .025" shim under the front right corner of the bed and all was good, no taper.
I used leveling pads on my second machine when I set it up and it ran smooth as glass, leveled very easy and fairly quick. No taper in any of the test cuts.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sin City Shooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Question, I'm reading the instructions and it says to bolt it to the floor. Did you all bolt yours down? </div></div>
Dont bolt down the machine. With the ground moving 24/7 it's a matter of time before the bed ways twist and vibration sets in. Remember, this is a very light machine.
I bolted mine down at first with jam nuts to level by and the vibration was extreme. I then used leveling pads from MSC and a machinist level to set it up. Ran like a top at that point but, even after being leveled it cut with a slight taper. The fix was a .025" shim under the front right corner of the bed and all was good, no taper.
I used leveling pads on my second machine when I set it up and it ran smooth as glass, leveled very easy and fairly quick. No taper in any of the test cuts.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
G0509g for three years only real complaint is the light is a POS.The 4 jaw it came with is pretty crude.Overall money well spent.
G0509g for three years only real complaint is the light is a POS.The 4 jaw it came with is pretty crude.Overall money well spent.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
I have had a G4003G since December and haven't gotten to use it as much as I would have liked. I have turned a few test pieces and centered the tailstock.
The only project I have done so far was to face off the cam bolts for the 4-jaw because they were too long (or the tapped holes in the chuck were too shallow). Took about 0.010" off and cleaned up the threads. After fixing the cams, the chuck works wonderfully now.
Although I can't comment on long-term durability, I am really happy so far for the 10 or so hours I have on my machine. Definitely seems to be worth the low price.
I have had a G4003G since December and haven't gotten to use it as much as I would have liked. I have turned a few test pieces and centered the tailstock.
The only project I have done so far was to face off the cam bolts for the 4-jaw because they were too long (or the tapped holes in the chuck were too shallow). Took about 0.010" off and cleaned up the threads. After fixing the cams, the chuck works wonderfully now.
Although I can't comment on long-term durability, I am really happy so far for the 10 or so hours I have on my machine. Definitely seems to be worth the low price.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
Bolting a machine to the floor:
1st. You need the right floor. A 4" slab isn't it.
2nd. Rebar. It should have lots of it.
3rd. Expansion joints. NEVER straddle them with a machine.
In order to do it right a machine should be on an isolated pad. Meaning its on its own little island of concrete. The floor should be thick. IMO at least 8" with rebar placed closer than what you'd find in a typical garage.
If you can't do this, use the virbo absorbing pads and roll with it.
The big issue isn't vibration of the machine. That's going to be there regardless of whether you bolt it down or not. The issue is transmitting the vibration to other machines while they are running simultaniously.
This is why my floor was purpose built for the task.
Good luck.
C.
Bolting a machine to the floor:
1st. You need the right floor. A 4" slab isn't it.
2nd. Rebar. It should have lots of it.
3rd. Expansion joints. NEVER straddle them with a machine.
In order to do it right a machine should be on an isolated pad. Meaning its on its own little island of concrete. The floor should be thick. IMO at least 8" with rebar placed closer than what you'd find in a typical garage.
If you can't do this, use the virbo absorbing pads and roll with it.
The big issue isn't vibration of the machine. That's going to be there regardless of whether you bolt it down or not. The issue is transmitting the vibration to other machines while they are running simultaniously.
This is why my floor was purpose built for the task.
Good luck.
C.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
Like others have said, for your buck and pound for pound, it's a good buy in a new machine. It's not a Hardinge or similar beast, but costs a 1/5 the price and is a capable machine.
It's a popular lathe for a lot of toolmakers as well, two of finest infill plane makers here in the US are using one (Jim Leamy and Wayne Anderson) and both speak positively of their Grizzly.
Like others have said, for your buck and pound for pound, it's a good buy in a new machine. It's not a Hardinge or similar beast, but costs a 1/5 the price and is a capable machine.
It's a popular lathe for a lot of toolmakers as well, two of finest infill plane makers here in the US are using one (Jim Leamy and Wayne Anderson) and both speak positively of their Grizzly.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bolting a machine to the floor:
1st. You need the right floor. A 4" slab isn't it.
2nd. Rebar. It should have lots of it.
3rd. Expansion joints. NEVER straddle them with a machine.
In order to do it right a machine should be on an isolated pad. Meaning its on its own little island of concrete. The floor should be thick. IMO at least 8" with rebar placed closer than what you'd find in a typical garage.
If you can't do this, use the virbo absorbing pads and roll with it.
The big issue isn't vibration of the machine. That's going to be there regardless of whether you bolt it down or not. The issue is transmitting the vibration to other machines while they are running simultaniously.
This is why my floor was purpose built for the task.
Good luck.
C. </div></div>
Thanks Chad. I'm looking at getting a 12x16' tuff shed and just pour a new concrete patio for the back yard and make it extra thick under shed. found the pads online so I may just go that way for a while till the shed is done.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bolting a machine to the floor:
1st. You need the right floor. A 4" slab isn't it.
2nd. Rebar. It should have lots of it.
3rd. Expansion joints. NEVER straddle them with a machine.
In order to do it right a machine should be on an isolated pad. Meaning its on its own little island of concrete. The floor should be thick. IMO at least 8" with rebar placed closer than what you'd find in a typical garage.
If you can't do this, use the virbo absorbing pads and roll with it.
The big issue isn't vibration of the machine. That's going to be there regardless of whether you bolt it down or not. The issue is transmitting the vibration to other machines while they are running simultaniously.
This is why my floor was purpose built for the task.
Good luck.
C. </div></div>
Thanks Chad. I'm looking at getting a 12x16' tuff shed and just pour a new concrete patio for the back yard and make it extra thick under shed. found the pads online so I may just go that way for a while till the shed is done.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
Sid,
If you're going to be pouring a pad for this and the shed to sit on, then really take the opportunity to do it right.
Seriously.
What Chad was saying about having "purpose built" locations for his machines is MORE than spot-on. You've gone to this extent so far, why not cap it off with a good foundation? That is the 'core' to anything standing and of use!
I'm sure there's a few here who could tell you what is required for a pad for your lathe. As well as the re-bar placement and requirements. Yes, certain pieces should be on certain angles and be of specific diameters and all that. It does matter.
Half-ass'ing a job is one thing. If you have the opportunity to do it right, then by all means DO SO. You'll thank yourself later when others are complaining about 'poor tolerances' and unwanted tapers.
Or not, it's totally up to you.
---forgot to add:
It's not all that much more expensive to do, and it's not hard at all to accomplish. The 'priciest' potential in this endeavor would be obtaining the specifications of what is needed. Engineering knowledge is required, and where you get that from is the highest cost. There may be opportunity here.
Sid,
If you're going to be pouring a pad for this and the shed to sit on, then really take the opportunity to do it right.
Seriously.
What Chad was saying about having "purpose built" locations for his machines is MORE than spot-on. You've gone to this extent so far, why not cap it off with a good foundation? That is the 'core' to anything standing and of use!
I'm sure there's a few here who could tell you what is required for a pad for your lathe. As well as the re-bar placement and requirements. Yes, certain pieces should be on certain angles and be of specific diameters and all that. It does matter.
Half-ass'ing a job is one thing. If you have the opportunity to do it right, then by all means DO SO. You'll thank yourself later when others are complaining about 'poor tolerances' and unwanted tapers.
Or not, it's totally up to you.
---forgot to add:
It's not all that much more expensive to do, and it's not hard at all to accomplish. The 'priciest' potential in this endeavor would be obtaining the specifications of what is needed. Engineering knowledge is required, and where you get that from is the highest cost. There may be opportunity here.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you're going to be pouring a pad for this and the shed to sit on, then really take the opportunity to do it right.
</div></div>
I'm pretty sure that's what I just posted. Maybe not worded correctly but yes, when I get ready to build in the back yard I will pour a auto shop style concrete floor, only under the building. No sense in pouring one that thick for patio furniture.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you're going to be pouring a pad for this and the shed to sit on, then really take the opportunity to do it right.
</div></div>
I'm pretty sure that's what I just posted. Maybe not worded correctly but yes, when I get ready to build in the back yard I will pour a auto shop style concrete floor, only under the building. No sense in pouring one that thick for patio furniture.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
When we put a new Mill in at work (78,000 LBS) it required us to cut a 11'x22' hole out of the 6" floor. New island was 14" thick with 1/2" rebar every 12" in mesh on 2 levels. None of the machines are bolted down, only the Radial 22" drill. We have 30+ CNC Mills and Lathes.
When we put a new Mill in at work (78,000 LBS) it required us to cut a 11'x22' hole out of the 6" floor. New island was 14" thick with 1/2" rebar every 12" in mesh on 2 levels. None of the machines are bolted down, only the Radial 22" drill. We have 30+ CNC Mills and Lathes.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
If you are going to pour a 8" thick slab, and purchasing the rebar at Home Depot or the like, I would recommend 1/2" diameter reinforcing spaced at 9" on center each direction. Place the reinforcing between the mid-depth of the slab and the upper 1/3rd of the slab.
If you are going to pour a 8" thick slab, and purchasing the rebar at Home Depot or the like, I would recommend 1/2" diameter reinforcing spaced at 9" on center each direction. Place the reinforcing between the mid-depth of the slab and the upper 1/3rd of the slab.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
OMG !!!!!
OMG !!!!!
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
are we still talking about an 1100 lb lathe here?
are we still talking about an 1100 lb lathe here?
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">are we still talking about an 1100 lb lathe here? </div></div>
You never know when he might want to upgrade to something bigger... like a Bullard.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">are we still talking about an 1100 lb lathe here? </div></div>
You never know when he might want to upgrade to something bigger... like a Bullard.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
The G4003G has a shipping weight of 1,374 #'s. This includes the pallet and enclosure, tool box, chucks, centers, Drill chuck and everything else that’s included with it. A small engine hoist will easily pick the machine up.
Forget the new 8x8x12 isolated slab with rebar Leveling pads from MSC / Enco are all you need, I'm not guessing.
If you were dealing with a 75,000# machine maybe, but really, it's much less than 1,300 #'s once it's in place.
The G4003G has a shipping weight of 1,374 #'s. This includes the pallet and enclosure, tool box, chucks, centers, Drill chuck and everything else that’s included with it. A small engine hoist will easily pick the machine up.
Forget the new 8x8x12 isolated slab with rebar
If you were dealing with a 75,000# machine maybe, but really, it's much less than 1,300 #'s once it's in place.
Re: Grizzly gunsmith lathe
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The G4003G has a shipping weight of 1,374 #'s. This includes the pallet and enclosure, tool box, chucks, centers, Drill chuck and everything else that’s included with it. A small engine hoist will easily pick the machine up.
Forget the new 8x8x12 isolated slab with rebar Leveling pads from MSC / Enco are all you need, I'm not guessing.
If you were dealing with a 75,000# machine maybe, but really, it's much less than 1,300 #'s once it's in place.
</div></div>
Good, then a regular slab it is. I thought that sounded a little excessive but I don't know, that's why I asked here. At my other house I had a slab poured for a two post auto lift, but that had to hold a 5000 car and it was 8" thick. I could feel the floor move if a car on the lift was being moved around like lifting an engine on a stand on the lift.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The G4003G has a shipping weight of 1,374 #'s. This includes the pallet and enclosure, tool box, chucks, centers, Drill chuck and everything else that’s included with it. A small engine hoist will easily pick the machine up.
Forget the new 8x8x12 isolated slab with rebar
If you were dealing with a 75,000# machine maybe, but really, it's much less than 1,300 #'s once it's in place.
</div></div>
Good, then a regular slab it is. I thought that sounded a little excessive but I don't know, that's why I asked here. At my other house I had a slab poured for a two post auto lift, but that had to hold a 5000 car and it was 8" thick. I could feel the floor move if a car on the lift was being moved around like lifting an engine on a stand on the lift.
