Gunsmithing Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

[Oakland Tactical]

Here Goes, I had a custom rifle built in 308 win a few years ago. I had it built with a 26 inch barrel from the throat which makes it heavy so I want to cut it down to 20" and still have the end match up to my smith vortex FH or other muzzle devices. I also had the DD Ross scope mount silver soldered to the action. It has DD Ross bottom metal with a floor plate. The rifle is bedded in a McMillan A3 stock.

My questions are as follows:
1. Do you need to unsolder the scope base to remove the barrel from the action to turn it,cut it and thread it?
2. Will a badger DBM fit close enough for minor infill work or do I need to start over with a new stock?
3. Any idea how much this surgery is going to cost?

 

[SSC]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

as for the base, it depends on your smith's setup and how they does their work. you will need to talk to them about it

 

[hero's machine]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

It should be no big deal to pull the tube......as long as it was not soldered too....lol.

 

[Hellbender]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

If you are just chopping the barrel to 20" and re-threaded, you don't need to unscrew the barrel at all.

But if you need it re-chambered, then you would.

If the first, then 75-125 dollars, depending if you need any of the devices timed.

On the DBM, talk to the smith, as this cost will vary widely, but you shouldn't need a new stock.

 

[hero's machine]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

It will depend on his lathe. 20" is right at the breaking point for a lot of spindles.

 

[Oakland Tactical]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

The barrel doesnt need rechambering, the Rock barrel shoots with the best of them, but I did want to turn it down to match a attachment for a can. As far as the solder I had wanted to get the action clipsloted but the solder was suggested to me instead.

Thanks for all the advice it was helpful. Now I just need to find a good smith that is not to busy building his own rifles to work on mine.

 

[BWEFirearms]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

If you want the barrel threaded for a suppressor you want the barrel pulled and turned and threaded between centers. This is the proper way to do the job and the only way to assure the threads are concentric to the bore.

 

[angelballer]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BWE Firearms</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> If you want the barrel threaded for a suppressor you want the barrel pulled and turned and threaded between centers. This is the proper way to do the job and the only way to assure the threads are concentric to the bore. </div></div>

I don't see what is wrong with the way 300sniper and several others do it. From his .284 build thread,

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i worked on the muzzle today. i set it up the same way i did to do the chamber starting out with a .001" indicator in two spots along the range rod and then two .0001" indicators.

then i cut the profile for the muzzle brake and the threads.

i figured the muzzle will either be protected by the brake or by a thread protector that protrudes beyond slightly so i just went with a basic 11* crown. with the muzzle threaded to 5/8", there wasn't enough room to do a recessed crown in my opinion.

while the barrel was still set up in the lathe, i installed the muzzle brake and bored the exit hole in it.

</div></div>

Obviously if the lathe headstock is too long then there are problems.

 

[cal50]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

Indicate the barrel off of the bore ID then turn & single point thread if you want concentricity.

Turning between centers would be way down on my "how to" selection.

 

[Hotguns]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you need to unsolder the scope base to remove the barrel from the action to turn it,cut it and thread it</div></div>

Depends on the setup of your gunsmith. I use a 14x40 lathe, so it wouldn't be an issue.The scope would have to come off.
The barrel would'nt necessarily have to come off if an action mandrel was used to center the action and a steady rest was used to thread it with.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Will a badger DBM fit close enough for minor infill work or do I need to start over with a new stock?</div></div>

It <span style="font-style: italic">should</span>.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any idea how much this surgery is going to cost?</div></div>

That is entirely dependent on where you live. Where I live it would cost around 125 bucks for a cut and thread job.If your attachments need to be timed, it would cost a bit more. The problem is that all the gunsmiths around here are way behind,most jobs are at least 6 months out.

 

[LRI]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

The barrel work is no issue for us. It'll be pulled, indicated in a hydraulic collet chuck mounted to a modified high end cnc turning center.

$75.00 gets it done.

Fitting a floor metal for us involves creating the part in cad, generating a tool path specific to that part, and machining the stock to fit accordingly. The result is a 1:1 fit without bedding. How much reconstructive surgery determines the charge. Typically around $150.00.

All of our stockwork is completed with a coat of paint. Its a cardinal rule we don't budge on. That starts at $150. Your only limited by imagination.

If the stock is toast there's no reason to scrap it. We "remix" stocks all the time. Its become a sort of calling card as of late.

Give us about 60 days.

Be glad to help.

C.

 

[300sniper]

Re: Gunsmithing Pros, I need some consultation.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BWE Firearms</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> If you want the barrel threaded for a suppressor you want the barrel pulled and turned and threaded between centers. This is the proper way to do the job and the only way to assure the threads are concentric to the bore. </div></div>

that is not the only proper way and it is certainly not the only way to ensure the threads are concentric to the bore. that method may make the threads concentric to the at the crown, it rarely makes the threads coaxial over the last portion of the bore, which also means that the bullet is not leaving on a coaxial path with muzzle device when it leaves the bore.

i wouldn't remove the barrel for this op and i would rather not remove a barrel unless it was absolutely necessary. in this case, it's not.