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Hard 308 extraction not sure why HELP.

Seandradamus

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Jun 6, 2013
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So after starting low and working my way up I figured out a good load for my gap 308
Using 1time fired fgmm by me . Now on subsequent firings 2nd reloads I get 1 out of 3 that stick .
The bolt lifts easy but won't pull back unless I hit it with my palm a bit.
I am neck sizing only ,they also chamber no problem. Anyone else experience this?
I would rather not full size , as that kind of defeats the purpose of neck sizing bushing dies.
Also my redding neck sizing die won't touch the shoulder so no way to bump that back without fl sizing.
Any ideas?
 
You "ALWAYS" full length resize cases fired in a semi-auto or you will have the problem you are having now which will get much worse as you keep neck sizing only.

I full length resize all my cases fired in any of my rifles using the minimum shoulder bump for the type rifle. A full length resized case is supported by the bolt on the rear of the case and by the bullet in the throat. This minimizes any negative influence the case can cause with bullet alignment.

Below the case is supported at the base by the bolt and the bullet in the throat, the case neck and main body do not touch the chamber walls.

chamber-neck-diagram-with-cartridge2x_zps7395df40.jpg
 
armorpl8chikn said:
Throw the neck sizing die away so no one else will ever have this problem again. FL size with the die set up to bump the shoulder one or 2 thousanths and your problems will go away and your ammo will be just as accurate, if not more so.

^words of wisdom

ETA: I've also run into a similar sticky primary extraction condition when using brass fired in another (larger) chamber. A SB size or National Match die will fix it. If you sharpie up a case that sticks, chamber it, extract it, and the sharpie us worn off down towards the bottom of the case, this is likely the issue.
 
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You need to full length resize. The hard extraction after bolt lift is due to the casehead expansion. The only way to address that is full length resizing. Set the FL die correctly and the ammunition will be just as accurate as neck only and reliable to boot.
 
Thank you all it's great having such help readily available .
1. It is a bolt gun.
2. When I full sized 10 rounds they worked flawlessly at the same charge. But to be honest the accuracy fell off just a bit ,that bothered me but so does having to smack my bolt open. I guess I will start full sizing , I read the stickies on reloading and I thought it was suggested in there to just neck size but to crank it down enough to bump the shoulder 2 thou.
I'm gonna have to reread.
 
F/L size, but just know that you don't have to set the shoulder back much at all. I shoot for 0 to .002 max when I size. Accuracy of F/L sized rounds have always yielded as good or better accuracy than neck sized rounds. Just stop neck sizing and start F/L sizing and your issues should be solved. Your problem is yet another thing to add to the long list of issues with neck sizing alone.
 
You need to full length resize. The hard extraction after bolt lift is due to the casehead expansion. The only way to address that is full length resizing. Set the FL die correctly and the ammunition will be just as accurate as neck only and reliable to boot.

I have only been neck sizing and pretty new to reloading. What is the correct way to FL sizing, as in how to set up the die? Also if I have already neck sized a case can I now FL size it to set it back to factory specs? Thanks in advance.
 
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I have only been neck sizing and pretty new to reloading. What is the correct way to FL sizing, as in how to set up the die? Also if I have already neck sized a case can I now FL size it to set it back to factory specs? Thanks in advance.

Before we go any further, I have some questions: Do you understand the concept of headspace? Do you understand the concept of fire formed brass? Do you understand the concept of shoulder setback? Do you understand what a F/L sizing die does while sizing a piece of brass?

Once you understand these things, then an explanation of how to set up the die will make a whole lot of sense. Otherwise, it will confuse you. Read a quickie on headspace of bottleneck cartridges first, then read my next post
 
You need to set a F/L sizing die so that it sets your shoulder back in relation to a fired piece of brass. To do this, you need to measure a fired case from the shoulder to the base. Screw in the die and size the brass. Measure and see if the shoulder measurement decreases. If the die is not screwed in enough, you will actually see the shoulder bump forward. Keep screwing in the die until you see the shoulder set back .001. Thats pretty much it. It is better to have the shell plate contact the die on the upstroke for consistency (cam over). But to control the amount of shoulder setback, you need different sized shell holders to do this, like the competition shell holders.
 
How clean is the chamber, I had a TRG 22 that started to have brass sticking, didn't matter if it was reloads or factory, put a flash light down the chamber and it was disgusting in there. screwed a brush on a short rod in the drill and went to town, cured the problem.
Check it out just in case.
Cheers.
 
I have only been neck sizing and pretty new to reloading. What is the correct way to FL sizing, as in how to set up the die? Also if I have already neck sized a case can I now FL size it to set it back to factory specs? Thanks in advance.

If you're pretty new to reloading, why are you neck sizing? Who got you started down that rat hole....

First thing is to buy a FL sizing die. There are regular FL sizing dies and their are FL bushing dies. The difference is the you can buy different bushing to tailor the neck tension. Not necessary and not recommended for a novice reloader.

As for setting up the FL die, there will be instructions, but they won't be tailored to your chamber. The best way to setup the FL die to your chamber is with a headspace comparator. There are different types but RCBS's is the easiest one to use. Take a freshly fired case and check it in the gage. That is your chamber's headspace. Adjust the FL die (screw in and out a little at a time) until a freshly fired, lubed and resized case shoulder is bumped back about 0.002", chamber check that case. If it goes in smoothly, your done. Lock that die down and don't mess with it.
 
Also the reason your having sticky bolt lift is the brass has no room to expand then retract. It expands to your chamber then stays. Seen it before. You can only neck size for so long. Also get better brass. Generally speaking Federal is soft and doesn't last long
 
You guys!!! You make the OP feel like a pedophile just because he is neck sizing. OP: I have a shooting buddy that is just like these guys, F/L, F/L, F/L only and if you ain't F/L, you're wrong.

Well, he has a point to a point.

Nothing wrong with neck sizing if you do it right and only do it once or twice between full-length sizings. The issue is that your brass is going to get to the point where you will not be able to chamber it. The real key to neck sizing is to know where that point is and to F/L BEFORE you get close.

My buddy F/L sizes EVERY TIME because he says that he can't afford to have cases that don't chamber at a match. True enough. If you're willing to work that hard and push your brass thru a F/L sizer every time you load, more power to you. I personally neck size a couple of firings and then anneal and F/L size the brass, trim, and start the cycle over.

It works fine. So if you want to work out a scheme that allows you to neck size some and F/L size some that's up to you. You just have to figure it out for yourself and your rifle. No one will come and take your brass and force you to register as a brass-offender.

Good luck.

P.S. I agree with aimsmall, Federal is not optimum brass. Your can do better. But then, you gotta dancewith the one ya brung.
 
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