I picked up an older (definitely pre-Taurus) Rossi M38 snub nose this weekend at the Lone Star gun show. It's in like new condition but the trigger pull is pretty heavy and the hammer is rather hard to cock. I there a DIY fix for this or should I take it to a smith?
- Thread starter tomcatmv
- Start date
Smith
Take it to a competent revolver gunsmith. It's not calculus but you need the correct tools to get it right.
A few years ago I converted a new (found in back a the safe one day) Taurus M85 to double-action-only carry situation and fashioned it to replicate a dry-fire practice platform to avoid wear and tear on practicing with more my expensive legacy DAO carry J-frames. Safariland Bianchi IWB holster shown.
Fabricated Front sight insert - Brownell's kit
polished all internal engagement parts
Hogue grip with reduction of last finger separator
Wolff trigger spring 6.5 lb
removed trigger face serrations
bobbed the hammer
removed single action hammer sear
shimmed 0.002" on each side of hammer
reduced DAO trigger pull from 11+ lbs to smooth 9 lbs.
chamfered cylinders
A few years ago I converted a new (found in back a the safe one day) Taurus M85 to double-action-only carry situation and fashioned it to replicate a dry-fire practice platform to avoid wear and tear on practicing with more my expensive legacy DAO carry J-frames. Safariland Bianchi IWB holster shown.
Fabricated Front sight insert - Brownell's kit
polished all internal engagement parts
Hogue grip with reduction of last finger separator
Wolff trigger spring 6.5 lb
removed trigger face serrations
bobbed the hammer
removed single action hammer sear
shimmed 0.002" on each side of hammer
reduced DAO trigger pull from 11+ lbs to smooth 9 lbs.
chamfered cylinders
You can swap in lighter springs (to a point) - perfect for range use, you’ll want to test any carry ammo as this can cause light strikes on hard primer ammo.
Anything beyond that, you want professionally done. Revolvers are like little Rube Goldberg machines inside, and a couple thousandths off the right surface will make it sing, while a couple thousanths off the wrong surface will turn it into a paperweight.
Anything beyond that, you want professionally done. Revolvers are like little Rube Goldberg machines inside, and a couple thousandths off the right surface will make it sing, while a couple thousanths off the wrong surface will turn it into a paperweight.
Thanks for the advice gents. I'll find a smith here in central Texas to have it worked on.
Also does anyone know where to get parts for these? I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet but the rifling looks very faint and I'm afraid the barrel might be shot out. I've been looking on the net for a 2" replacement but no luck.
Thanks but this won't load for me.
One of the reasons I prefer Ruger revolvers in the SP101 / GP100 / Super Redhawk range is that they can be “Kitchen Table Gunsmith’d” into damn fine firearms even if you failed the Mechanical Knowledge portion of the ASVAB. 
-Stan
-Stan
bad tiiming.........It's Numrich Parts.........
I'd definitely shoot it before getting wrapped around the axle with concerns about the barrel. It's incredibly unlikely that someone shot it out.
Well that explains it. I think I checked Numrich already and on luck, same with SARC and a couple others but I'll check Numrich again.
Yeah, I'll get it out to the range soon and see if any rounds keyhole or something.
