Did you get drunk and head to the JP Rifle builder Bender? I've done that so many times
It'll shoot no doubt.
- Thread starter Bender
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Did you get drunk and head to the JP Rifle builder Bender? I've done that so many times
It'll shoot no doubt.
Did you get drunk and head to the JP Rifle builder Bender? I've done that so many times
It'll shoot no doubt.
I’m just trying to decide if this is where I’m going to eventually end up, should I just rip it off like a bandaid and cut the steps out and do it? ~$500 and I’ll have a shooter? Am I missing something? Lol
So you're saying an upper/lower set (stripped) and you build it up? Heat sink thingy on the barrel? I'm a little skeptical on the cooling fins-I need to see how they interface with the barrel.
yes. See here. If they really are the best, why not? So about $700 to do it all, gasblock, barrel, and fins. Plus a new hand guard.
edit. No. Just use my upper and rebarrel it’s with JP kit.
That's a good way to go. I would personally keep the Stag as is and buy a new upper-offset cost by ditching the fins.
I must be out of the loop on AR 101.
What are the magical cooling fins that you speak of?
I thought you might have been over ran by p dogs, and kick the selector to the fun switch.
Unless, you are doing mag dumps one after the other, which will make it difficult to keep it around the 1MOA you desire.
Keep it simple, I just weighed two of mine
Both came in at 8.6 lb. Naked, no scope or bipod.
Just high quality barells, good triggers.
Both shoot better than I am capable of.
The 18 inch is a larue stealth barrel, I think 1/8 twist off the shelf.
Nothing fancy, releitively inexpensive and highly accurate even with off the shelf ammo.
No need for "fins" its not a good swimmer.
It'll be hard to go wrong with the JP. I have one of their 308 barrels and it's a shooter but I don't have the cooling fins so I can't comment on those. Personally I'd skip the fins since you're looking to build a precision rifle and not a blaster. You're probably not going to be doing mag dumps with it.
I'd just build a new upper and switch them out. Course I had the same idea but I just couldn't stop from building complete rifles so I might not be the best person to ask. It's an addiction I tell you
I'd just build a new upper and switch them out. Course I had the same idea but I just couldn't stop from building complete rifles so I might not be the best person to ask. It's an addiction I tell you
Bender,
77 / 75 are all that impressive on S.E.R.T.s (self erecting rifle targets), tend to pencil through.
55 Vmax/NBT, 60 Vmax/TMK, 65 SGK work more better.
60 Vmax I have first hand data, 60 TMK I don’t have first hand data yet.
I’d be more inclined to set up around 69 SMK for longer range accuracy/ballistics, use 65 SGK or 60 TMK on S.E.R.T.s. so ballistics are closer to same.
77 / 75 are all that impressive on S.E.R.T.s (self erecting rifle targets), tend to pencil through.
55 Vmax/NBT, 60 Vmax/TMK, 65 SGK work more better.
60 Vmax I have first hand data, 60 TMK I don’t have first hand data yet.
I’d be more inclined to set up around 69 SMK for longer range accuracy/ballistics, use 65 SGK or 60 TMK on S.E.R.T.s. so ballistics are closer to same.
I just went thru the same thought process. Had a colt 6920 I almost never shot cause it was a 2" gun. I like yote hunting and when I go by myself a semi auto would be better. So after 2 months of research I settled on a 20" WOA service rifle barrel. So far its MOA or better with a hand load from a service rifle shooter. If I had more disposable income I would have went CL Bartlien or Craddock. I have no regrets so far I went WOA.
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