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Help Me Avoid the Wrong First Rifle

GearMaker

Private
Minuteman
Jun 25, 2020
61
30
I plan to purchase my first PRS-type competition rifle by the end of the summer. I think 6.5mm Creedmoor is the right place for me to start because until I am competent at hand loading, the factory ammo is less expensive and the barrel life is a little longer that the smaller 6mm calibers. That said, I realize that the trend in PRS shooting is toward the smaller, lower-recoil caliber chamberings such as 6mm Creedmoor, 6mm Dasher, etc. I want to have the option of rebarreling the rifle in a smaller caliber myself once the original barrel is shot out, and for all subsequent barrel swaps if I move to calibers with shorter barrel life.

I've been reading the different posts here about at-home barrel changes. Bergara barrels sound like only Bergara can swap them, and it sounds like it is a serious pain to get the factory barrels off Tikkas T3xs, Howa M1500s, and maybe anything else other than a Ruger Precision Rifle, a Savage Model 10, an Accuracy International, or a Q The Fix. The AI and the Q are WAY out of my price range (I'm looking at $1200-1400), and I get the sense that the RPR and Savage are rifles that shooters move out of into something better. I have a friend recommending the Ruger M77 Hawkeye Long-Range, but I have read mixed opinions of the M77 action. Lacking a shop that stocks each of these rifles, it's difficult to get an idea of which rifle is the right place to start.

Things that are important to me are: an easily swappable barrel, upgradable trigger, able to fit into a stock/chassis such as the KRG Bravo or Oryx by MDT, and capable of consistent 1/2 MOA accuracy. Are those attributes attainable without doing a custom build on something like a Bighorn Origin or Defiance action?

What other factors do I need to consider to avoid purchasing the "wrong" rifle? What other questions should I be asking?

Thanks!
 
This included a chassis and would have been easy to swap barrels yourself, watch for another special.

 
If I was starting all over I would buy a Tikka T3X Varmint 6.5 Creedmoor, put in a KRG Bravo, put in a $10 trigger spring, and get a local gunsmith to thread barrel. I would wear that barrel out learning. There are prefits now for Tikkas. I did this recently except I got a 223 for a trainer.
 
The Mack bro’s stainless steel action went live today for $575, which includes recoil lug and 20 MOA rail. Unless that action seriously shits the bed (which I’d doubt), I see no reason to buy a factory Tikka/savage/Remington/[fill in the blank].

I’d buy the $575 action, get a bartlein (or your favorite brand) for $350, a triggertech primary for ~$125, a krg bravo for $350, and have a smith chamber & thread for $450. Full custom build for less than $2k.
 
Thanks for the responses so far!

If I was starting all over I would buy a Tikka T3X Varmint 6.5 Creedmoor, put in a KRG Bravo, put in a $10 trigger spring, and get a local gunsmith to thread barrel.
Oh, there's a thought! Thank you!

I wouldn't listen to your friend, that hawkeye is a dead end street. Limited stocks, limited triggers, and most smiths won't waste their time on working on them.
Very good to know, thank you! I had a feeling that was the case, and I haven't found any of the chassis options I am interested in that will fit the M77.

For a $1400 max budget for the rifle, I don't think you're going to have "quick change" barrel system in that price range or at least one that is used in any numbers for PRS. If you actually go to matches what you'll see in that price range are a lot of "Remage" setups and Tikkas since you can buy shouldered prefits for Tikkas and change them out yourself with a vise, wrench, and gauges to check headspace.
Yes, that's what I meant by changing out the barrel myself. I don't need anything "easier" than that--especially if the cost is going to start to climb towards $2000 and beyond. If I can drop a Tikka T3x Varmint into a chassis, have the barrel threaded, add brake, drop the trigger pull weight to 1lb and have it feed from AICS mags--and change the barrel myself when the time comes, is there a better solution than that at a similar price point? If I can swap the bolt handle to something a little bigger, I'm not sure I'd need more than that to start out. Am I on the right track with that idea?
 
Origin-$850
Criterion prefit $450
Oryx/bravo chassis $400
Trigger of you choosing $150
I'm intrigued by that option as well. It would extend my wait a little bit to save up the extra $$, but would this be a build that would ultimately last me much further into the future beyond the Tikka option, or is it just another route to the same destination? I don't mind the extra expense if it gets me something that I can't with the factory rifle in a KRG or Oryx.
 
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A Howa is a good rifle to start on since it's valuable and offers a lot for its price point. It will also keep up with customs in competition. Maybe the first barrel swap will be somewhat tough. Afterwards though, it shouldn't be. McGowan sells barrel nuts for these to essentially create a Howage system where you can install prefits. Again, may be it'll be a bitch to remove the original barrel but may be not. A member on here sent me a video of him doing it once and he did it pretty easy. Just gotta know what you're doing and how.
 
A few questions for you:
1.) Have you shot or went to a match yet to see different set ups?
2.) Are you that interested in competitions (PRS/NRL) that you think it’s going to last?

I ask that because if you think for even a second that it’s something you’re going to be really interested in then wait and spend the money the first time. Speaking from experience I went with a Rem700, did a Remage barrel in a KRG Bravo and here I am a year later dropping money on a custom action, MDT ACC chassis, Leupold Mark 5HD, etc

If you’re just looking to peek around the corner and see what all the hype is, then go to a couple matches with a pen and paper and ask the guys or gals who are shooting about their equipment. From there it’ll provide you a better understanding in not only the equipment used, but what’s really worth your hard earned money.

Just my .02 cents I’m not saying create a finical burden and there’s plenty of shooters who enjoy shooting that do really well with those set-ups but if you’re anything like 80% of the people here, it’ll become an addiction and you’ll want more!
 
i heard easier said than done on tikka barrel removal for a swap.
I've read that in many posts here, but I would hope it is just a pain for the initial swap, and then easier with prefits from that point forward.

Bighorn has more trigger options and more options for choosing prefits but I personally wouldn't feel limited with one versus the other.
One of the things that gives me pause about the Tikka is the trigger--not that it has a bad one, but I read so many people who love the TT Diamond or Bix'NAndy triggers in their custom builds that I don't want to miss out if they really are that awesome.

A Howa is a good rifle to start on since it's valuable and offers a lot for its price point. It will also keep up with customs in competition.
I don't know much about the Howas, honestly. The chassis I am leaning toward offer them for the Howa, so that's something. I'll have to do some research to see how upgradable they are as I grow in the sport.
 
Tikkas are nice, but sourcing parts from beretta for them is very tough. Id be inclined to do the origin over a tikka. The origin can be swapped from a 223 to 6.5creed to 6.5prc with a simple bolt head swap.

Here's my origin 6creed with a criterion savage prefit
20200430_120737.jpg

5rds, 105hybrids@3185. The criterion barrels acquit themselves nicely
20200226_140628.jpg
 
I ask that because if you think for even a second that it’s something you’re going to be really interested in then wait and spend the money the first time.
Matt, thanks--this is really the sort of input that is good for me. Shooting in general is something I just love. When I first started shooting 2-gun matches, I knew immediately that I wanted upgrade my rifle and optic. Part of that was because I wasn't as effective out to 400-450 yards with a fairly stock AR, but part of it was that I started learning what I liked better and how I wanted my rifle to perform. I don't know how quickly I'll want to upgrade or change my rifle in PRS/NRL, but I'd prefer to not start with a rifle that I will feel is holding me back after my first season.
 
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Matt, thanks--this is really the sort of input that is good for me. Shooting in general is something I just love. When I first started shooting 2-gun matches, I knew immediately that I wanted upgrade my rifle and optic. Part of that was because I wasn't as effective out to 400-450 yards with a fairly stock AR, but part of it was that I started learning what I liked better and how I wanted my rifle to perform. I don't know how quickly I'll want to upgrade or change my rifle in PRS/NRL, but I'd prefer to not start with a rifle that I will feel is holding me back after my first season.

You’re welcome. I didn’t have that for my entry into this sport. I was just told man, buy equipment and show up! You’ll learn what’s good and what’s not. Well, yeah, a ton of frustration and money later I’m finally putting together what I should have the first time!

If you know someone that shoots those styles ask to buy ammo and shoot their gun. It’ll be a good lower cost option to get your feet wet.

Either way, any of the above options will serve your purpose and be enjoyable. For what it’s worth, my Rem700 with a Criterion Remage is a hammer!
 
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What parts would you need from Beretta?

While you could eventually outgrow a Origin, it would be at a point you've worn out a few barrels and know the little nuances that make something differnt enough for you to want it. It will also hold a fair bit of value(think $1000 for a barreled action, more if you let the trigger go with it).

You could also save up for a MPA or the like. It's cheaper in the long run to save and get what you really really want rather than working thru 2 or 3.
 
@Zermatt Arms has customer service that cannot be beat. A REAL human answers the phone and they will talk as long as you need.

I have an Origin and I planned on running a Bix n Andy trigger. I had some cock on close and two days later I had a new cocking piece to eliminate the chick on close. They also recommended a low top sear which I bought immediately.

You can buy drop in barrels or use barrels meant for Savages. I have a Criterion in 6mm BR and I zero complaints. I am shooting amazing groups at 600

My Origin is as good as it gets now.
and I could not be happier. I could spend more but I don’t think I will get anything better.
 
Bolt stop and bolt stop pin, broken both in tikkas. There has been a few threads about bolt handles and bolt lugs sheering off on tikkas. Beretta is the importer, but they don't give 2 shits about tikka, hence a pain to get parts. Midwest gunworks does have some tikka parts from time to time, just a crap shoot if they have what you need, when you need it. Ive owned 2 tikka customs, they are nice and do feel slick, but they aren't in the same category as a custom action. Not to mention trigger availability, factory trigger is nice but its no tt diamond or bix or giessele.
 
First rifle or first PRS rifle?
Does it NEED to be 6.5cm, all of the cool kids are running 260’s now anyway?

Fast twist 223 is where it’s at if you don’t need big energy on target or have good spotters/flashers (can be difficult spotting hits at longer ranges), is super cheap to shoot and load for, hand loading to good accuracy is not at all difficult and 70-80g projectiles closely match the 6.5 out to 500-600 yards or so.
It’s what I would be choosing as a starter calibre and mine was always one of my favourite rifles to shoot.


The Tikkas have a lot going for them. Some, but not all factory Tikka barrels can be a bit stubborn on the first removal. Once you have it off the first time though, every subsequent swap is as easy as anything else. Most stock/chassis manufacturers inlet for t3 footprint and aftermarket parts are becoming more and more common. Someone on here (I think LRI) is even working on bolt swaps for a truly multi calibre rifle, so they must have something going for them.

Howa barreled actions are dirt cheap and tend to shoot better than they should for their price, plenty accurate for PRS type competitions, they do feel a bit agricultural to run the bolt on though and the triggers are a lovem or hatem affair. Drop one in a cheap chassis and spend the rest on glass and ammo.

Heaps of custom options, the price goes up quickly, but something on a R700 footprint will give you the most options.
 
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Buy several at a time, lol. The problem with the bolt stop on tikkas is that the impact is carried through stop and transmitted to the little 1/16" pin. It fractures easy. I think mountain tactical makes a bolt stop that has an elongated slot for pin to ride in, helps protect the pin from sheer force.

I'm not saying the tikka is horrible, but like a remington, by the time you buy action and gussy it up to custom spec, fix all the deficiencies, and bush fp, you're at the price of an origin. The origin will also resale better than any trued up factory action and still allows boltface swaps that are cheaper than buying a bunch of bolts.
 
If you want to plan for the future, I would save and get an origin. It is something that will grow with you. At this point you can shoot Criterion Savage prefits that are $375 with muzzle threads from NSS. I have had several and all were capable of .5 moa with a little load development, some were much better. A Bravo or Oryx chassis is a good place to start and a timney 510 u for around $150 is also a good place to start. You'll get a level of quality and satisfaction, along with great customer support, should you need it, that will not come with most factory actions.

If you get the bug bad, you can upgrade chassis, trigger, barrels, the whole nine yards to top of the line stuff. You can use the same gun as a trainer by swapping barrels and bolt heads in minutes and shoot 223 to train for cheap or shoot 308 to practice managing recoil. Right now I use a Criterion Savage prefit 223 barrel with the barrel nut loctited in place as a trainer barrel (they are a good deal and they are typically very accurate) and run a shouldered prefit from a top smith for matches.

Last, but not least, if you decide to get out of the sport you can sell an Origin at a minimal loss. Several years ago, before prefit barrels were the rage and the rpr was released, I spent $1000 building a comp rifle on a Savage action. I had all sorts of issues that had to be resolved and ultimately put it in the corner and bought a TL3 because Savage would no longer sell me parts to fix the things that break when you shoot several thousand rounds a year and dryfire tens of thousands of times. I think I could sell a roll of toilet paper for more than I can get out of my Savage right now. Savage has come under new management since then and it seems like they are trying, so things may be better now.

Ultimately, all of the money I spent leading up to building with a 700 footprint custom action was a waste of money. If the lower cost actions had been available at that time I would never have considered building on a factory action.

A factory action will work, but the slickness and reliability alone make the low end custom actions a no brainer. Add in all the features and customer support and it makes even more sense.
 
Hard to go wrong with the Zermatt origin as others have said.
 
If you want to do PRS and want to compete in the "entry" class which is called Production, you'd have to have your action re-barreled by the manufacturer anyway. I think this is the dumbest thing in the world (instead of creating an approved gunsmith network) because you might as well buy two rifles considering how long it takes some of the manufacturers to send back a re-barreled action.

If I didn't get lucky and find a Bergara HMR Pro in 6.5CM with 3-shots through it (a rich guy's Africa trip backup) for almost half off MSRP and if I wanted to build a rifle, being new to the idea of competitive shooting, I had already decided on getting a Howa barreled action or finding a Howa rifle on clearance somewhere for a great price and putting it in one of the many chassis available for it. Having a Savage 12FV and being thourougly disappoiinted in the aftermarket support (compared to Rem and How and Tikka) for what is really a wonderful rifle platform, I learned Savage wouldn't be where my money was spent. Maybe if I was doing a budget F-class build, then I'd get the Savage target action but my Bergara's bolt lifts easier than those...
 
Way overcomplicating it.

Your first rifle is there to shoot, figure out what you like, and move on when you have a clue...

Pick up a good deal on whatever rifle you think you like from the PX, run it and sell it later when you have a clue.
 
Can the macks take remage prefits?

They will take a remage prefit, but the face of the barrel is just too long. It needs to be set back a tiny bit. It is not a critical part of the barrel. It is a small difference between that and the Remington bolt nose apparently.

Some discussion in the thread in this subforum.
 
I’ll vote for the Criterion barrel on the origin. My CBI is on a lowly savage action but still one of the most accurate rifles I’ve owned. Definitely the cheapest.

Edit: I’ve never owned an origin. But owned enough savage to suggest something better than that

260 Rem - 26” 1:8
5 rounds- 600 yards
966EB1FC-CB69-4646-886E-42A7DFB60EFA.jpeg
 
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Get a .308 and learn to drive a rifle with some (small) amount of kick. Don't go retarded on magnification, you won't need about really more than a 12 power max. learn hold, wind, and actually enjoy the process of becoming a rifleman.

Use a sling, because that's what real men do. When you're ready for hair gel and manicures you get one of those Dasher rounds with a brake and about 14kg of weight. That'll reduce to recoil to the level necessary to give your silk tactical shirt a nice crease but not too creased....

This was basically the advice I was given when I ready for something more than a .22LR.

it's funny, I have a 6.5CM coming from PVA and got two of the ARC deals coming as well. One of them will be turned into a .308, one will remain a 6.5CM and the other will be a .22LR. I'm most looking forward to getting behind that RimX .22LR....

I award myself 15 MOF's for this post.
 
I second Howa as an option like mentioned above. Have a friend who has one and has been a capable rifle for the price. Otherwise I would say what others have echoed in saving up. Learned a long time ago buy once cry once.
 
Bolt stop and bolt stop pin, broken both in tikkas. There has been a few threads about bolt handles and bolt lugs sheering off on tikkas. Beretta is the importer, but they don't give 2 shits about tikka, hence a pain to get parts. Midwest gunworks does have some tikka parts from time to time, just a crap shoot if they have what you need, when you need it. Ive owned 2 tikka customs, they are nice and do feel slick, but they aren't in the same category as a custom action. Not to mention trigger availability, factory trigger is nice but its no tt diamond or bix or giessele.

bolt lugs shearing? I’d honestly be interested to see that, but I haven’t ever heard of such a case personally. Have any info?
 
I believe I saw it on this site, 6-8mo ago. Right lug, that has extractor at base of it. Snapped right off, shooter was fine, i dont know if beretta took care of him or not.
 
First rifle or first PRS rifle?
Does it NEED to be 6.5cm, all of the cool kids are running 260’s now anyway?

Fast twist 223 is where it’s at if you don’t need big energy on target or have good spotters/flashers (can be difficult spotting hits at longer ranges), is super cheap to shoot and load for, hand loading to good accuracy is not at all difficult and 70-80g projectiles closely match the 6.5 out to 500-600 yards or so.
It’s what I would be choosing as a starter calibre and mine was always one of my favourite rifles to shoot.


The Tikkas have a lot going for them. Some, but not all factory Tikka barrels can be a bit stubborn on the first removal. Once you have it off the first time though, every subsequent swap is as easy as anything else. Most stock/chassis manufacturers inlet for t3 footprint and aftermarket parts are becoming more and more common. Someone on here (I think LRI) is even working on bolt swaps for a truly multi calibre rifle, so they must have something going for them.

Howa barreled actions are dirt cheap and tend to shoot better than they should for their price, plenty accurate for PRS type competitions, they do feel a bit agricultural to run the bolt on though and the triggers are a lovem or hatem affair. Drop one in a cheap chassis and spend the rest on glass and ammo.

Heaps of custom options, the price goes up quickly, but something on a R700 footprint will give you the most options.
I have a 7 twist 223AI running 80s at 2950, and a 6.5 Creed running 130s at 2900. Sometimes I wonder why I need the creed.

To the OP: If I had to start over I'd probably do the Origin action and build off of that. If you aren't sure if you are serious about this, I'd get a RPR in 6 or 6.5 Creed.
 
Which buttpad height adjustment are your using on your Manners? Have a T4A I was thinking about possibly adding one too.

Its a graco model with center post. Be advised manners epoxies recoil pad to stock, it has to be sawed off. I also used brass inserts that have coarse outer threads and 10-32 inside threads. They're screwed and glued in to stock
20200430_090420.jpg
20200430_095423.jpg
 
Changing barrels on a Tikka isn't that hard. A friend that hadn't ever taken a barrel off bought a outside action wrench and a barrel vise, changed the first one in about five minutes, second one took a couple whacks with a mallet on the wrench but wasn't difficult according to him. Hard to beat the Tikka for the cost.
 
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Sometimes.....My smith had to make relief cuts on barrel to get my 2 apart. Barrel vise and outside action wrench, they were on good.
 
I plan to purchase my first PRS-type competition rifle by the end of the summer. I think 6.5mm Creedmoor is the right place for me to start because until I am competent at hand loading, the factory ammo is less expensive and the barrel life is a little longer that the smaller 6mm calibers. That said, I realize that the trend in PRS shooting is toward the smaller, lower-recoil caliber chamberings such as 6mm Creedmoor, 6mm Dasher, etc. I want to have the option of rebarreling the rifle in a smaller caliber myself once the original barrel is shot out, and for all subsequent barrel swaps if I move to calibers with shorter barrel life.

I've been reading the different posts here about at-home barrel changes. Bergara barrels sound like only Bergara can swap them, and it sounds like it is a serious pain to get the factory barrels off Tikkas T3xs, Howa M1500s, and maybe anything else other than a Ruger Precision Rifle, a Savage Model 10, an Accuracy International, or a Q The Fix. The AI and the Q are WAY out of my price range (I'm looking at $1200-1400), and I get the sense that the RPR and Savage are rifles that shooters move out of into something better. I have a friend recommending the Ruger M77 Hawkeye Long-Range, but I have read mixed opinions of the M77 action. Lacking a shop that stocks each of these rifles, it's difficult to get an idea of which rifle is the right place to start.

Things that are important to me are: an easily swappable barrel, upgradable trigger, able to fit into a stock/chassis such as the KRG Bravo or Oryx by MDT, and capable of consistent 1/2 MOA accuracy. Are those attributes attainable without doing a custom build on something like a Bighorn Origin or Defiance action?

What other factors do I need to consider to avoid purchasing the "wrong" rifle? What other questions should I be asking?

Thanks!
It is pretty tough to beat a Howa Bravo, though there is always a chance that you will get one that doesn't shoot well (it happens with ANY factory gun).
The RPR would certainly take a while to grow out of. You can upgrade the butt stock and fore end over time, they are very solid shooters. I am not a ruger fanboy at all, but they really hit one out of the park with the RPR.

I have been critical of remington, however, they tend to shoot pretty damn well. I think your expectation of .5 moa is a little optimistic for a factory gun.
There is the SPS tactical 6.5 CM that can be dropped into chassis, add a good trigger of your choice and you still come in below your budget.
barrel changes are easy with the remage system.
 
A few questions for you:
1.) Have you shot or went to a match yet to see different set ups?
2.) Are you that interested in competitions (PRS/NRL) that you think it’s going to last?

I ask that because if you think for even a second that it’s something you’re going to be really interested in then wait and spend the money the first time. Speaking from experience I went with a Rem700, did a Remage barrel in a KRG Bravo and here I am a year later dropping money on a custom action, MDT ACC chassis, Leupold Mark 5HD, etc

If you’re just looking to peek around the corner and see what all the hype is, then go to a couple matches with a pen and paper and ask the guys or gals who are shooting about their equipment. From there it’ll provide you a better understanding in not only the equipment used, but what’s really worth your hard earned money.

Just my .02 cents I’m not saying create a finical burden and there’s plenty of shooters who enjoy shooting that do really well with those set-ups but if you’re anything like 80% of the people here, it’ll become an addiction and you’ll want more!
This is good advice! I suggest that you follow it! Maybe a pro will take you under his/her wing.
 
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For $1400 and quick barrel change you are probably going to have to go savage or remage style (or possibly arc bar loc for the appropriate thread rem or savage). I would suggest something like bighorn origin and good but affordable Pre-Fit such as lothar as the bartlein will be a few hundred more (but possibly worth it if you can stretch a bit), then get a trigger tech and a bravo chassis (right around $1400 new for that). Otherwise just look in the px as there is a bunch of stuff. Things like tikka, bighorn, arc nucleus, and other slightly cheaper rem clone actions such as Mack bro’s would all work.
 
Do what I did... Not exactly like mine but you get the point.

I bought a used custom rifle, trued M700, everything that could be done to the action was done, and by a top name GS. I won matches with it, burning out 4 barrels in the process, and sold it for $100 less than I paid for it 7 years later. Back then if I had paid this GS to make this rifle it would have cost me $3500. Instead I paid $1900.

Took that money plus some money from other things I sold, and yes I charged some on the CC, but built my dream rifle. Included with this plan was using prefit barrels. Man it's so nice knowing I'll only need to spend $450 next time vs $800 for a shouldered barrel done by a GS!

A friend found a Tikka T3 CTR in 260R on a local gun classifieds, Traded the guy a Mossberg AR that he paid $450 for + $250 more for the T3. First thing he did was buy a Area 419 hellfire, man those brakes work well!!! About a year later he found a KRG Bravo for $250 on that same forum, he really likes it. That thing as is isn't far behind my current custom rifle.
I could be happy with this rifle without feeling the need to upgrade, especially if I wasn't planning on being a top PRS shooter.
 
im a big fan of Tikka for a starter rifle. The aftermarket has really grown for them allowing you to grow with the rifle.
 
I plan to purchase my first PRS-type competition rifle by the end of the summer. I think 6.5mm Creedmoor is the right place for me to start because until I am competent at hand loading, the factory ammo is less expensive and the barrel life is a little longer that the smaller 6mm calibers. That said, I realize that the trend in PRS shooting is toward the smaller, lower-recoil caliber chamberings such as 6mm Creedmoor, 6mm Dasher, etc. I want to have the option of rebarreling the rifle in a smaller caliber myself once the original barrel is shot out, and for all subsequent barrel swaps if I move to calibers with shorter barrel life.

I've been reading the different posts here about at-home barrel changes. Bergara barrels sound like only Bergara can swap them, and it sounds like it is a serious pain to get the factory barrels off Tikkas T3xs, Howa M1500s, and maybe anything else other than a Ruger Precision Rifle, a Savage Model 10, an Accuracy International, or a Q The Fix. The AI and the Q are WAY out of my price range (I'm looking at $1200-1400), and I get the sense that the RPR and Savage are rifles that shooters move out of into something better. I have a friend recommending the Ruger M77 Hawkeye Long-Range, but I have read mixed opinions of the M77 action. Lacking a shop that stocks each of these rifles, it's difficult to get an idea of which rifle is the right place to start.

Things that are important to me are: an easily swappable barrel, upgradable trigger, able to fit into a stock/chassis such as the KRG Bravo or Oryx by MDT, and capable of consistent 1/2 MOA accuracy. Are those attributes attainable without doing a custom build on something like a Bighorn Origin or Defiance action?

What other factors do I need to consider to avoid purchasing the "wrong" rifle? What other questions should I be asking?

Thanks!
A little bit higher price point but damn these are nice for a newer precision shooter to just go “get a rifle” then put a scope on it.

 
Everyone - thank you for all the time and thought you have put into responses so far. I think you have opened my eyes a lot--especially with so many recommendations for the custom route with an Origin action. They seem to be out of stock everywhere I look, so depending on when I start shooting matches, necessity/availability might also play a role in the decision. The Mason Dixon PRS match series isn't too far from me, so I will go watch a couple matches, talk to the shooters, and take lots of notes on what they are shooting and how they progressed equipment-wise. I'm looking forward to the adventure!
 
@GearMaker, bugholes has some in stock

 
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@GearMaker, bugholes has some in stock


Fuckin jinx! Lol
 
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