Suppressors Help me Part Together my 1911 Build

[jacq220]

UPS man dropped this off today, and so it begins... this will be 100 percent custom built by yours truly....
Now help me decide, Please state which 1911 part you think I should use, and Why, cost isnt much of a concern.
Most importantly will be the sights and barrel.
The purpose of the gun will be primarily for accuracy, and will be a show piece so it will need to look immaculate.
The finish will be high polished sides blued, and flat top and bottom straps w/ 23k gold inlay on the side of the slide where i am going to have Indy Gunworks engraved on it although i might do a little more elaborite of an engraving. caspian logo's will also be inlayed w/ 23k gold.
Let the disscusion begin.

 

[Downzero]

Re: Help me Part Together my 1911 Build

Since it's just for looks anyway, what kind of look are you going or? You already have the caspian roll mark + non traditional rear slide serrations, so I take it you're not going for such a "classic" 1911 look.

I'd start by hogging out the frame to get it to spec under the grips, having the slide stirrup cut "ball cut," and deciding what kind of sights you want to use. Pretty much the choices are between a more "competition" style Bomar rear or a more "combat" style fixed rear sight. I prefer the latter, but my USPSA limited gun has an adjustable rear sight.

what kind of look you're going for will dictate other parts. I really like the Ed Brown beavertail, so I'd probably use that. EGW trigger control parts are pretty much the standard, and I'm personally a fan of VZ grips although I can't imagine anything but wood going with the bluing and the gold.

I think if I was going to try to build a more "fancy" 1911 that wasn't going to be shot and was primarily for looks, I would send back that slide and get one with proper serrations and without the Caspian roll mark, and probably order one that already has the sight cuts you want. Or I would save the one you have to build up into a toy and order another one in a more traditional style.

 

[jacq220]

Re: Help me Part Together my 1911 Build

came w/ novak cuts... paid 240 for the slide and the frame shipped.... thats why the post, so you guys can help me decide on a look. not really interested in sending it back.

 

[Downzero]

Re: Help me Part Together my 1911 Build

Well, the problem is that some of the "look" has already been decided for you. It is already cut for fixed sights, it already has those cocking serrations, etc.

For a more modern look, ball cut the stirrup cuts, install fixed sights, Ed Brown beavertail, EGW or Wilson thumb safety (I use ambies for weak handed shooting). S&A is the common mag well, front strap checkering at 25 LPI, tri top is cool with 40 LPI (do the back of the slide as well).

 

[jacq220]

Re: Help me Part Together my 1911 Build

got the slide and frame fitted together with a really good fit.... the look of the gun is what i am asking help on...

anybody else got any input?
any advice on removing the caspian logo from the side (not the ones on the rear)

 

[arborpro]

Re: Help me Part Together my 1911 Build

First test for satisfaction is place the slide on the frame and shake rapidly side to side any noise means you need to send it off to a gunsmith,Because a big hammer is the only fix. you want no shake it all. you also want a smith that has a barrel tester. the truth behind all good shooting guns is the barrel.a good bulls-eye smith will test a barrel to make sure it will group 5 shots 1.5" at 50 yards then build the gun around that barrel. not vise versa. your not the first that wants a dependable 1911 that hammers. Most start the same way you just did.
Then they talk to a smith and find out they would have saved hundreds if they told them what they wanted. my smith advised getting a mil spec SA.45. and build from there, they used to go for $500 NIB. the GI is cheaper but they need to mill out the ejection port so there is no saving with the extra machine work. with the gunsmith work add another 500 bucks and you have a .45 that shoots 1.5 inch groups at 50 yards if you can drive it, and is dependable after you put 500 rounds through it. it will be super tight till its broken in.
I know several guys at my club that bought kimbers and STI frame kits that spent several hundred dollars more than going when a cheap quality 1911 frames. stay away from the hard steal.