OK, so I have a new Sporter and a picatinny rail purchased from Mountain Tactical. The four screws in the top of the receiver are clearly smaller than the 6x48 screws supplied with the rail. I understand that Tikka's manufactured after '04 accept the 6x48 screws. Su'um don't look right.
- Thread starter Ruggedtouch
- Start date
Have your smith drill them out to 8-40s. That's what I've been doing with my remingtons.
That's a possibility.
I just feel like there's something I'm not understanding here. The rail attachment to the receiver should be a simple matter with four screws and a supplied recoil pin. All the research I've done tells me the screws supplied with the rail should fit.
I just feel like there's something I'm not understanding here. The rail attachment to the receiver should be a simple matter with four screws and a supplied recoil pin. All the research I've done tells me the screws supplied with the rail should fit.
I thought the tikka rifles were metric?
The Beretta website lists 6x48 as the screw size used for bases. The screws that came out of the receiver were clearly not. They were absolutely miniscule screws.
It is 6-48, tikka uses plastic hole plugs. The plastic fills the threads and stays in them after the plugs are removed. My sporter i picked up last year did this, i got the smaller metric screws from egw and they were too small. My smith used a 6-48 tap and cleaned them out. The tap just removed plastic, no metal, and the 6-48 screws threaded in perfect. Gorski, the mountain tac base op has uses a SS heavy pin that acts as a recoil lug. The receiver has a machined hole that accepts the SS stud, pretty damn nice and rock solid.
Thanks for your reply, 6brshooter. Sounds like I'll have to look around for a gunsmith to have the same thing done.
Brownells sell that tap, might not be a bad thing to have on hand.
Just carefully and slowly unscrew the plastic fillers and they will come out in one piece- if you already took them out and there is plastic remaining in the holes just use a toothpick or something you don't need to tap the threads. The performance rail they make works great with the lug and 6-48 screws.
Last edited:
Thanks for the advise, Graywolf. I used a toothpick to carefully scrape away bits of plastic clogging the threads. The screws were tight when starting into the threads but all is good.
Thanks all for the advise.
Thanks all for the advise.
Last edited:
