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Here’s what really matters for novice/beginners in PRS and NRL rimfire matches

Dthomas3523

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  • Jan 31, 2018
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    So, I made post about what really matters for the beginner/novice shooter in centerfire matches. It was well received, so here is one for Rimfire.

    Most beginner/novice and even intermediate shooters make the mistake of focusing on the wrong things. Things like reading wind. At this level, you should be focusing on very small, easy, and basic things. This will elevate you from a bottom or low/mid pack to upper/mid or top pack shooter without much complication. There are some very high level shooters who are not really good at things like reading wind. But they are excellent at fundamentals and making corrections after the first shot.

    Here is my philosophy:

    If you shoot 80% or better on every stage, you will place very high and sometimes win most any one day match you attend. And you’ll likely place pretty high at many 2 day matches depending on who else is attending.

    Think about it this way, if you shoot a 10 stage match with and average of 9 rounds per stage (some 8, 10, 12 round stages), you can miss the first shot every stage, see it, make the correction, and hit the other 8 average......you’d only drop 10 shots and you’ll shoot 89% of the available points.

    How many of you would be tickled to death shooting 89%?? Most everyone will.

    So, here is my opinion what really matters and my advice how to streamline this.

    1: Optic that will parallax down to (preferably below) the shortest target you will engage.

    2: As perfect of a zero as possible. Absolute longest zero should be 50yds. I personally prefer less. Very important: do not zero closer than your optic can achieve a parallax free picture.

    3: ammo your rifle likes. IMO, you need to be .5moa out to 50yds (you’ll see .25 and .50 kyl at 25 and 50 sometimes). And as close to or under and moa at 100yds. (The easy button is buying a vudoo and literally running sk standard or any lapua ammo. It’s very rare that any sk or lapua won’t shoot good enough to win a PRS or NRL Rimfire match. Not talking about BR or F class obviously).

    4: perfect dope. There is zero excuse for missing vertically unless the prop is extremely unstable or mirage is extremely bad. If you’re missing vertically, you’re adding in another variable that should have been eliminated. The easy button here is anything running Applied Ballistics with the DSF function.

    5: fundamentals fundamentals fundamentals. There’s almost no recoil in a Rimfire. Not spotting your shot (except for terrain like grass and such) is inexcusable with .22. Practice watching your actual bullet fly. It’s subsonic and easier to see than trace with a centerfire. You should have near perfect fundamentals in theory, and a .22 is much more forgiving than even a heavy 6mm rifle.

    6: practice. Dot, barricade, and build and break drills at 25 and 50yds. You can sprinkle in some 100yds. But it’s not needed. If you can consistently 1moa dots are 25 and 50yds, you’ll be better than most shooters you’ll ever meet.

    Nothing else matters at this point. Let me specifically talk about wind. Forget it except to come up with an initial call. And a lot of times you can get info from your squad. Obviously take note and work on it, but don’t emphasize wind over the above steps.

    Always! When not sure over compensate for wind at this skill level. If you’re going .3 hold (edge of plate on a 2moa), then go .5. Always add .2-.3 if you’re not sure. For a couple reasons:

    1: this gives you the “pro” side or the entire plate to take the error

    2: if you do not see your shot, you MUST change something (if it was bad trigger press or unstable position, then change that and not wind hold). So, if you are always over compensating for wind, you ONLY have one direction to change. If you don’t over compensate, you may have to choose between two directions. This will often result in picking the wrong one and having to burn another shot to figure it out.

    So, to recap. Your goal should be to never miss because of A: bad dope B: Bad position C: Bad fundamentals. Your next goal is to see every shot and only miss the 1st shot. Once you have your correction, you clean the rest of the stage.

    Obviously on switchy wind days, you’ll miss more. But, once you master the above things and you’re placing in the top or winning matches in calm or consistent wind, you can start working on more advanced wind reading.

    Rememeber. Ammo, dope, fundamentals, close distance practice, spot shot, win, become the Alpha of your shooting buddy text group.
     
    Last edited:
    Also, shameless plug. ZCO’s parallax close enough for rimfire.

    BD75B4BC-5410-4E5F-B792-EADC4AA4C69F.jpeg
     
    So, I made post about what really matters for the beginner/novice shooter in centerfire matches. It was well received, so here is one for Rimfire.

    Most beginner/novice and even intermediate shooters make the mistake of focusing on the wrong things. Things like reading wind. At this level, you should be focusing on very small, easy, and basic things. This will elevate you from a bottom or low/mid pack to upper/mid or top pack shooter without much complication. There are some very high level shooters who are not really good at things like reading wind. But they are excellent at fundamentals and making corrections after the first shot.

    Here is my philosophy:

    If you shoot 80% or better on every stage, you will place very high and sometimes win most any one day match you attend. And you’ll likely place pretty high at many 2 day matches depending on who else is attending.

    Think about it this way, if you shoot a 10 stage match with and average of 9 rounds per stage (some 8, 10, 12 round stages), you can miss the first shot every stage, see it, make the correction, and hit the other 8 average......you’d only drop 10 shots and you’ll shoot 89% of the available points.

    How many of you would be tickled to death shooting 89%?? Most everyone will.

    So, here is my opinion what really matters and my advice how to streamline this.

    1: Optic that will parallax down to (preferably below) the shortest target you will engage.

    2: As perfect of a zero as possible. Absolute longest zero should be 50yds. I personally prefer less. Very important: do not zero closer than your optic can achieve a parallax free picture.

    3: ammo your rifle likes. IMO, you need to be .5moa out to 50yds (you’ll see .25 and .50 kyl at 25 and 50 sometimes). And as close to or under and moa at 100yds. (The easy button is buying a vudoo and literally running sk standard or any lapua ammo. It’s very rare that any sk or lapua won’t shoot good enough to win a PRS or NRL Rimfire match. Not talking about BR or F class obviously).

    4: perfect dope. There is zero excuse for missing vertically unless the prop is extremely unstable or mirage is extremely bad. If you’re missing vertically, you’re adding in another variable that should have been eliminated. The easy button here is anything running Applied Ballistics with the DSF function.

    5: fundamentals fundamentals fundamentals. There’s almost no recoil in a Rimfire. Not spotting your shot (except for terrain like grass and such) is inexcusable with .22. Practice watching your actual bullet fly. It’s subsonic and easier to see than trace with a centerfire. You should have near perfect fundamentals in theory, and a .22 is much more forgiving than even a heavy 6mm rifle.

    6: practice. Dot, barricade, and build and break drills at 25 and 50yds. You can sprinkle in some 100yds. But it’s not needed. If you can consistently 1moa dots are 25 and 50yds, you’ll be better than most shooters you’ll ever meet.

    Nothing else matters at this point. Let me specifically talk about wind. Forget it except to come up with an initial call. And a lot of times you can get info from your squad. Obviously take note and work on it, but don’t emphasize wind over the above steps.

    Always! When not sure over compensate for wind at this skill level. If you’re going .3 hold (edge of plate on a 2moa), then go .5. Always add .2-.3 if you’re not sure. For a couple reasons:

    1: this gives you the “pro” side or the entire plate to take the error

    2: if you do not see your shot, you MUST change something (if it was bad trigger press or unstable position, then change that and not wind hold). So, if you are always over compensating for wind, you ONLY have one direction to change. If you don’t over compensate, you may have to choose between two directions. This will often result in picking the wrong one and having to burn another shot to figure it out.

    So, to recap. Your goal should be to never miss because of A: bad dope B: Bad position C: Bad fundamentals. Your next goal is to see every shot and only miss the 1st shot. Once you have your correction, you clean the rest of the stage.

    Obviously on switchy wind days, you’ll miss more. But, once you master the above things and you’re placing in the top or winning matches in calm or consistent wind, you can start working on more advanced wind reading.

    Rememeber. Ammo, dope, fundamentals, close distance practice, spot shot, win, become the Alpha of your shooting buddy text group.
    This is great stuff. I appreciate you sharing it.

    For those interested in the referenced centerfire post, I believe this is it.
     
    Last edited:
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    2: As perfect of a zero as possible. Absolute longest zero should be 50yds. I personally prefer less. Very important: do not zero closer than your optic can achieve a parallax free picture.

    3: ammo your rifle likes. IMO, you need to be .5moa out to 50yds (you’ll see .25 and .50 kyl at 25 and 50 sometimes). And as close to or under and moa at 100yds. (The easy button is buying a vudoo and literally running sk standard or any lapua ammo. It’s very rare that any sk or lapua won’t shoot good enough to win a PRS or NRL Rimfire match. Not talking about BR or F class obviously).

    4: perfect dope. There is zero excuse for missing vertically unless the prop is extremely unstable or mirage is extremely bad. If you’re missing vertically, you’re adding in another variable that should have been eliminated. The easy button here is anything running Applied Ballistics with the DSF function.

    #2. I usually zero at 50 yards. I used to zero at 25 yards, and a lot of people zero at 25 yards, one thing is you have to make sure 100% that your zero is correct. People will shoot a 1/4" bullseye at 25 yards and think that yep I'm good. But .1 mils at 25 yards is .08" That's a very miniscule amount of change. If your zero is off by .1 mils then you really screw up your dope. Most people who complain that AB/Kestrel doesn't work properly or they have to true their velocity / BC is because their zero is off. So far out of 3 different rifles, if people's zero is actually spot on, I have seen the Kestrel/AB curve for SK and Lapua ammo to be spot on with the chrono'd MV.

    #3. I've seen a 1/4" KYL once at 50, but mostly it'll sit around 35 yards max. But let's say it's at 50 yards so 1/2 moa. The difference is a bullet width is .22, the target is .25. You basically have an additional .22 area to miss (.11 on each side) to graze the steel enough for it to count. So I think you're looking at a .47" shot at 50 yards, which is close to MOA. I don't agree you need to have a 1/2 moa gun, and have seen plenty of CZ 457's, Tikka's clearing stages.

    Ammo testing is important though. And consistent lots is important as well. I've seen a lot of people shoot CCI SV, and not realize when they go to the store and buy another brick of CCI SV, it's going to shoot differently.

    "But it was 7.1 mils last time to 200 yards!"
    "Is this the same lot#"
    "What's a lot#"
    "Is this from the same brick of ammo?"
    "No I went to the store and bought a few more CCI SV boxes, it should be all the same right?"

    #4. Refer to my #2 response on perfect zero before perfect dope. Make sure you're 100% parallax free on each of your measurements at 100,150,200 etc. Make sure you do a 5-10 shot group, and find the average POI. People try doping on steel but it's not very precise. I like putting paper out at 100, 150, and 200. And also 98 is <> 100. 203 is not 200. Make sure you're doing it precisely. A lot of ranges have a 100 yard target area... that's not 100 yards exactly. It could depending on where you're firing, 98 to you, or 103. Pretty big difference in the rimfire world.
     
    Thanks for taking the time to write this up. When I first was reading about over estimating the wind call (and hadn't read point 2) I wondered how aiming to one side would ever be advantageous. I mean, what if your wind estimate was low and if you aimed to the center of the call you might connect. Then I read point #2. This is the kind of thing that I would have never thought of and is a great tip!

    On your suggestion of a rifle/ammo of 1/2moa accuracy at 50 yards. I certainly agree for the highest scores this is needed, however for an article targeted at beginner/novice shooters wouldn't something more like 1/2" at 50yd be sufficient?
     
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    #2. I usually zero at 50 yards. I used to zero at 25 yards, and a lot of people zero at 25 yards, one thing is you have to make sure 100% that your zero is correct. People will shoot a 1/4" bullseye at 25 yards and think that yep I'm good. But .1 mils at 25 yards is .08" That's a very miniscule amount of change. If your zero is off by .1 mils then you really screw up your dope. Most people who complain that AB/Kestrel doesn't work properly or they have to true their velocity / BC is because their zero is off. So far out of 3 different rifles, if people's zero is actually spot on, I have seen the Kestrel/AB curve for SK and Lapua ammo to be spot on with the chrono'd MV.

    #3. I've seen a 1/4" KYL once at 50, but mostly it'll sit around 35 yards max. But let's say it's at 50 yards so 1/2 moa. The difference is a bullet width is .22, the target is .25. You basically have an additional .22 area to miss (.11 on each side) to graze the steel enough for it to count. So I think you're looking at a .47" shot at 50 yards, which is close to MOA. I don't agree you need to have a 1/2 moa gun, and have seen plenty of CZ 457's, Tikka's clearing stages.

    Ammo testing is important though. And consistent lots is important as well. I've seen a lot of people shoot CCI SV, and not realize when they go to the store and buy another brick of CCI SV, it's going to shoot differently.

    "But it was 7.1 mils last time to 200 yards!"
    "Is this the same lot#"
    "What's a lot#"
    "Is this from the same brick of ammo?"
    "No I went to the store and bought a few more CCI SV boxes, it should be all the same right?"

    #4. Refer to my #2 response on perfect zero before perfect dope. Make sure you're 100% parallax free on each of your measurements at 100,150,200 etc. Make sure you do a 5-10 shot group, and find the average POI. People try doping on steel but it's not very precise. I like putting paper out at 100, 150, and 200. And also 98 is <> 100. 203 is not 200. Make sure you're doing it precisely. A lot of ranges have a 100 yard target area... that's not 100 yards exactly. It could depending on where you're firing, 98 to you, or 103. Pretty big difference in the rimfire world.

    The answer to perfect zero is not increasing the yardage so you can see the change in group.

    You just shoot a single shot after each time you make an adjustments to your turrets. If it doesn’t basically replace the center dot with a bullet hole, it’s not zero’d. Adjust and shoot another single shot.

    Once it’s hitting exactly where the dot is, do it another time or two and confirm.
     
    You also won’t “really screw up your dope” with .1.

    Again, people worry about the wrong things. You’re not losing a match with a .1 offset in your vertical.
     
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    You also won’t “really screw up your dope” with .1.

    Again, people worry about the wrong things. You’re not losing a match with a .1 offset in your vertical.

    I mean if you're trying to get a dope from a curve. Being off .1 / .2 mils at 200y and trueing it changes the MV truing from 1090 to 1130fps. That really screws it up if you're using that to project what your dope is going to be at 300y. I mean if you're just measuring your dope on paper, then it doesn't matter.

    My ranges here don't go past 200, yet the NRL22X matches are out to 450. So trying to build a curve being off by .2mils gets funky. You don't lose matches on this point I do agree though. Most beginner matches will let you check what your dope is at multiple ranges prior to the match so you can get by with that too.
     
    After several matches of missing the 1/4" KYL at 25-35yds prone off a bipod, I am going to try the ~25yd zero method you describe. Maybe I have something going on at 50 that isn't at 25? When I shoot sighters the day of the match at 50 they confirm I should be able to hit the 1/4" at 50. Maybe it is match jitters and I am jerking the trigger. Who knows, but it is frustrating.
     
    I mean if you're trying to get a dope from a curve. Being off .1 / .2 mils at 200y and trueing it changes the MV truing from 1090 to 1130fps. That really screws it up if you're using that to project what your dope is going to be at 300y. I mean if you're just measuring your dope on paper, then it doesn't matter.

    My ranges here don't go past 200, yet the NRL22X matches are out to 450. So trying to build a curve being off by .2mils gets funky. You don't lose matches on this point I do agree though. Most beginner matches will let you check what your dope is at multiple ranges prior to the match so you can get by with that too.

    If your zero is off by .1, your entire curve is only off .1.

    With .22 doping you should absolutely not be taking one or two ranges and using that to true. You should be using 4-6 ranges at a minimum.

    You’re not building a proper curve if you tru velocity based off 200.
     
    After several matches of missing the 1/4" KYL at 25-35yds prone off a bipod, I am going to try the ~25yd zero method you describe. Maybe I have something going on at 50 that isn't at 25? When I shoot sighters the day of the match at 50 they confirm I should be able to hit the 1/4" at 50. Maybe it is match jitters and I am jerking the trigger. Who knows, but it is frustrating.

    Take paper and the 1/4” hanger. Trace the outline. Shoot it and let the paper tell you where it’s going. That will give you a starting point for diagnosis.

    Or put cardboard behind the hanger.
     

    Ah dang....thanks. I missed that entirely. Didn't even see the font color indicating a hyperlink.

    Yes, Baron....you need to slow down and work on your reading comprehension! LOL

    Thanks, mate. I appreciate the steer....and you didn't even make fun of me for not seeing it! haha

    Ok, very short aside....my European immigrant grandmother would say to me as a child "I would send you to the ocean and you would come back and tell me there was no water".

    So, apparently this has been going on for a while!

    @Dthomas3523 - thanks for the insights. Really appreciate it.
     
    If your zero is off by .1, your entire curve is only off .1.

    With .22 doping you should absolutely not be taking one or two ranges and using that to true. You should be using 4-6 ranges at a minimum.

    You’re not building a proper curve if you tru velocity based off 200.

    I guess my range only had a 25, (zero), 100, and 200. So one time I thought I was zeroed, and I shot 100, got 1.8 mils, shot 200 and got 7mils. Based on that trajectory, my trued MV was 1135.

    Plugging that in, it guessed my 300 would be 13.3, and my 400 to be 20.8.

    In fact my zero was off by .1mils high, so I should've been 1.9 and 7.1.

    Plugging in the new velocity of 1090, gives me 13.6 for 300 and 21.4 for 400. So a .3 and .6 difference at the farther ranges.

    If I had more points to play with then yes I would've had a more accurate curve and then maybe only been off by .1mils
     
    I guess my range only had a 25, (zero), 100, and 200. So one time I thought I was zeroed, and I shot 100, got 1.8 mils, shot 200 and got 7mils. Based on that trajectory, my trued MV was 1135.

    Plugging that in, it guessed my 300 would be 13.3, and my 400 to be 20.8.

    In fact my zero was off by .1mils high, so I should've been 1.9 and 7.1.

    Plugging in the new velocity of 1090, gives me 13.6 for 300 and 21.4 for 400. So a .3 and .6 difference at the farther ranges.

    If I had more points to play with then yes I would've had a more accurate curve and then maybe only been off by .1mils

    There’s many reasons why your zero can have .1 of variance.

    3 data points is the issue, not the zero.
     
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    I guess my range only had a 25, (zero), 100, and 200. So one time I thought I was zeroed, and I shot 100, got 1.8 mils, shot 200 and got 7mils. Based on that trajectory, my trued MV was 1135.

    Plugging that in, it guessed my 300 would be 13.3, and my 400 to be 20.8.

    In fact my zero was off by .1mils high, so I should've been 1.9 and 7.1.

    Plugging in the new velocity of 1090, gives me 13.6 for 300 and 21.4 for 400. So a .3 and .6 difference at the farther ranges.

    If I had more points to play with then yes I would've had a more accurate curve and then maybe only been off by .1mils
    You also have to look at the numbers to see if they make sense. 1135 fps is supersonic even at sea level. That should not be the case for the muzzle velocity of precision rimfire ammo.