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Here we go again 260 brass...

mavrick

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Supporter
Sep 5, 2009
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Claremore, ok
Seems like everything I read is just not what I am looking for. 260 brass can be had by necking up 243 and turning the case neck inside? is that right.. 260 brass can be had by necking down 7-08 and just trimming OAL is that right. Are these the easiest ways to make your own 260 brass other than buying the RP, Norma, Nosler. Help me out here I just need to know what I need to get to for my 260 build as far as reloading tools.

Dustin
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

why not just run RP brass? Look at it this way, if you buy 500 pieces and get an average of 5-6 loads out of a piece. thats 2500-3000 rds right there on the barrel, thats getting closer to the end of its lifespan depending on how hard you push the load
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">+ 1/2...
</div></div>

thats the first ive seen +1/2 Victor, thanks for the laugh
smile.gif
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

I think Rem brass gets a bad rep from a bad batch that somebody brothers cuzin friends moms boyfriend posted on the Internet, kinda like Win primers in a AR15 are a no go because of the floating firing pin, I pick up my 260 Tuesday, I have 300 pieces of rem brass, when there toast I will buy some more unless there NIS, then i will neck down Win 7-08 brass, Lapua is very good brass, but Lapua 243 is my too exspensive for brass I might lose in a match, send more time shooting and less preping brass.
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think Rem brass gets a bad rep from a bad batch that somebody brothers cuzin friends moms boyfriend posted on the Internet</div></div>

Or it could be the several hundred I've measured and sorted.

R-P isn't terrible brass, just better is easily available, IMO.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">then i will neck down Win 7-08 brass</div></div>

That's what I do.
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

I only shoot Rem brass, and it works fine. The virgin brass needs the necks cleaned up (rounded) and chamfered, and their GTG. I have seen several shooters using the 7-08 necked down that get donuts after a number of reloads. Forget neck turning brass, waste of time IMO. So, each option has it's + and -.

I'll put it this way- Factory Rem brass won't be the reason I (or anyone esle) missed a shot.
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

I shoot all 3. Lapua 243, Winchester 7-08, and Rem 260. Lapua- neck up on a mandrel, neck turn to clean up the thick spot above neck shoulder juncture, then resize and load. Winchester 7-08- run through 260 full lenght die then full brass prep (trim, chamfer, uniform flash hole, uniform primer pocket) and load. Rem 260 full length size, then prep and load.
I give accuracy and brass life to Lapua. But you can only see the difference if you shooting a bench match. All will shoot well under 1/2 moa.
Winchester primer pockets will remain tight for 5-6 reloads.
Remington primer pockets 2-3 reloads.

I weight sorted 500 pieces of rem 260 brass for my Dads rifle and the weight spread was 1.2 grains! 2 lots, one was 238 and the other 250. Threw out a few for other reasons. That lot was excellent.

So pretty much take your pick. Depending on the level of accuracy you require some will take a little more work.

Hope this helps.
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

I F/L resize all my cases, then ream the flash holes; be it Rem .260 or Win .243/7-08. Same process in all instances. After that, the F/L die get backed off so only a smidge more than 1/2 of the neck length gets resized subsequent.

It's 'the poor man's neck sizer die'. But it does some other things.

It cuts down on brass work hardening, especially in the lower wall region near the case base, where such working and hardening may be contributory to case head separation.

In the neck, it offers some degree of control over neck tension/pull force; the less length resized, the lower the neck tension. Also, in not working the neck/shoulder junction, donuts may be less prominent.

It also leaves the bottom of the case and the bottom of the neck fully expanded to the diameter of the chamber; so when the case is reloaded and rechambered, it has a contact fit, which may help align it parallel and concentric with the bore line.

When I load, I weigh each charge, then drop it back into the case with a drop tube. The powder level gives me some inkling about case capacity, and any one which looks off gets reweighed and redropped. If it still looks off, it's put aside for sighter/fouler rounds. That's about the limit of any efforts of mine related to case capacity.

Greg
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I'll put it this way- Factory Rem brass won't be the reason I (or anyone esle) missed a shot. </div></div>

Man this is true..... Thanks for the help guys

Dustin
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

I buy once fired M118LR, neck it down with a full length sizer and run it through the case annealer to relieve any built up stress. haven't had to ream or turn any necks.

consistent results so far, SD's in the low 7's.
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mavrick</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChadTRG42</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I'll put it this way- Factory Rem brass won't be the reason I (or anyone esle) missed a shot. </div></div>

Man this is true..... Thanks for the help guys

Dustin </div></div>

But it could be the difference between an X and a 10.
 
Re: Here we go again 260 brass...

Win 7mm-08 brass was the cheapest stuff on Grafs website at $19.79/50 (dealer price) so I use that. They didn't have any 260 brass in stock at the time I ordered 2 weeks ago, and out of 243 and 7mm-08 this was the most cost effective option.

I run it through my progressive and it goes in new brass that's only had the flash hole deburred, it comes out primed/sized.

I chamfer the inside/outside of the case mouth and then load/shoot it.