Gunsmithing Homemade Reticle Leveling System -VS- Wheeler Engineering

[blackops_1]

Hey guys

While I'm waiting for my new scope to arrive I ran across the Wheeler system. I'm sure most of you are familiar with it, it
looks great to me. But considering how much this new build is going to cost in a new caliber. I'm doing what I can to hold costs down.

So long story short just using this AR as a prop. Mimicking the wheeler system to my home brew setup. Once the barrel level is
leveled, then the red level that will be laying across the scope elevation knob is leveled out. What is the difference between my system
and Wheeler's? Will mine work as well for scope reticle leveling considering this is for shooting at long range accurately?

Some other good methods I've looked at but don't want to use due to manufacturing tolerances on scope bases maybe not being perfectly flush? I don't know but additional costs being what they are, additional. I'll freely admit that I'm no expert and most likely overthinking this by a wide margin. But why not? I understand that rifle bore axis and the scope reticle must be true to each other for best accuracy.

Badger ordnance
Arisaka defense

Thoughts?

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Plum bob

 

[blackops_1]

Sure I planned to use a plum bob for verification afterwards. But for the initial scope setup is mine as good
as the Wheeler system?

 

[Gunfighter716]

I just use a fresh deck of playing cards as a "feeler guage" between the base of the turret housing and scope mount rail to level up the scope. Then I confirm with a plumb bob and call it done.

 

[blackops_1]

Another good suggestion thanks guys! I did see in another thread that someone used feeler gauges. I know for all
practical purposes ALL the methods listed work fine. I'm just trying to determine the best method considering the
amount of time/$$$ that will be expended working up loads . So since nobody thinks my home brew system is "off
track" I'll go with it and verify with a plum bob.

Still curious if anyone has used the Wheeler system and liked it?

 

[bschneiderheinze]

I have the wheeler levels. Have you shot out to 1000 or past in a match. I take a little time to make sure my scope is level but in a match no one has time to look at level on there scope or even level there recticle most of the time. I can see it making a difference if your trying to shoot little groups at 1000.

 

[blackops_1]

This is for little groups at maximum distance for the cartridge and the shooter, beyond 1000. Just target shooting, no
match considerations yet. But that's in the future for sure.

 

[blackops_1]

Thanks HB, that's solid advice that I've used in the past. As long as the base that the lower scope ring is mounted to. Is aligned with
the rifle bore it works fine. But if the rifle's base is off axis with the bore from the factory is when we run into problems.
Now 99.99% of the time the bases are fine and everything works with that method.

The Wheeler 2 level method eliminates the rifle base mount specifically from being an issue since it aligns two points. The reticle and the bore axis to each other. If their is a inherent misalignment from the factory in the base mount, rings not perfect etc.. Then aligning the two levels will correct for it automatically. That's why I like the Wheeler method, if I'm understanding everything correctly it seems the most error free if the process is followed to align the scope reticle to a T.

I've never used the Wheeler method before and it probably wasn't created by them anyway. Its just something I ran across since
I'm getting into long range shooting. Appreciate the input guys!

 

[jd5521]

Badger dead level and a plumb bob.

 

[antithesis]

I have the Wheeler. Sits in the bottom of a drawer unless I want to make sure a self-timed brake is level with the barrel. It works providing you are running a GOOD optic. I have seen optics where the reticle is not aligned with the scope body which makes the leveling system pointless. As mentioned, plumb bob it. Way faster and you get the reticle vertical within your natural point of aim rather than with the barrel. Not much point in leveling the reticle to the barrel if you are having to force the rifle in to that same position before you shoot.

 

[blackops_1]

Excellent responses guys I appreciate it!

 

[javy]

My method,
Buy 3/8x3/4 key stock approx 6 in long
Buy small bubble level and epoxy 90 degrees across end of key stock
Get large piece of brown paper or cardboard
Attach paper or cardboard to target stand and mark a plum vertical line with 4 ft level. Make sure line is plumb. 4 ft line is better than 2ft line
Loosen ring cap screws enough to just rotate scope with a little force
Remove bolt and slide key stock into action riding on the rails
level the rifle, I use swivel bipod and rear bag
Now look thru scope maintaining rifle level and plum vertical reticle line. Be as precise as posssible
Slowly tighten ring screws maintaining plumb reticle and level rifle
Now scope is plumbed/leveled with rifle no matter how reticle is mounted within scope body

 

[Alabusa]

Get your rifle to your natural point of aim. Get reticle level, in that position, to plum bob. Go shoot.

 

[FromMyColdDeadHand]

Get your rifle to your natural point of aim. Get reticle level, in that position, to plum bob. Go shoot.

This is where I am now. From what I can tell the reticle needs to be plumb to the world- everything else is secondary. I think Tubb in the high-power days said the same thing? I get comfortable behind the gun, level the reticle to the plumb line, set the bubble level to indicate that is level. Then when I shoot, I reference the bubble level. As long as the 'cant' isn't extreme, that should work, right?

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Pluming the ret is good but, make sure your erector plum as well. Because if it's not, has you dial up for distance your dialing a wind error with the up knob at the same time,...

 

[jonesturf]

This is where I am now. From what I can tell the reticle needs to be plumb to the world- everything else is secondary. I think Tubb in the high-power days said the same thing? I get comfortable behind the gun, level the reticle to the plumb line, set the bubble level to indicate that is level. Then when I shoot, I reference the bubble level. As long as the 'cant' isn't extreme, that should work, right?

I agree with this.

Pluming the ret is good but, make sure your erector plum as well. Because if it's not, has you dial up for distance your dialing a wind error with the up knob at the same time,...

Reticle and erector should be the same but a box test will confirm.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Reticle and erector should be the same but a box test will confirm.

Not really unless your box test is better than 35-40 MOA. I've seen many a scope pass a 10-12 moa box test but fail at 30 or better. The best method for up tracking is a plum line off your 100yd zero, then dial in the max you have while still shooting at your 100yd zero point. Hint, do not shoot out your aiming point. If the glass is GTG your group will be centered on the plum line right at the XX moa or mils you dialed in. If not when you twist the scope to correct that issue, you may now also find the ret is now canted.

 

[Speedarino]

Haven’t been impressed with the gimmicks sold for leveling. Feeler gauges/ cards, plum line, and good pair of eyeballs is hard to beat. We shoot 1000+ routinely and still waiting for a day w/o wind.

 

[element56]

The Arisaka leveling tool has worked well for me and my LaRue mounts.

Arisaka Optic Leveler Combo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W8AXZ98?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[_Windrider_]

Badger dead level and a plumb bob.

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