- Thread starter AZgeek
- Start date
New member but have been following this thread for a while.
I’ve had an x39 AR for about 13 years. It’s always been a track driver and even though barrel is .310 I’ve come up with some very accurate reloads using .308 bullets. Barrel has thousands of rounds through it but hasn’t lost any accuracy at all.
I finally pulled the trigger on a can (still in jail) but really want to work up a great subsonic load. My barrel is 1:10 twist so I’m nervous that I’d be risking blowing up the can if my barrel can’t stabilize the big slow bullets.
I would love to hear opinions from those with experience to help me.
I appreciate all the information that’s been shared here and will surely use it!
I’ve had an x39 AR for about 13 years. It’s always been a track driver and even though barrel is .310 I’ve come up with some very accurate reloads using .308 bullets. Barrel has thousands of rounds through it but hasn’t lost any accuracy at all.
I finally pulled the trigger on a can (still in jail) but really want to work up a great subsonic load. My barrel is 1:10 twist so I’m nervous that I’d be risking blowing up the can if my barrel can’t stabilize the big slow bullets.
I would love to hear opinions from those with experience to help me.
I appreciate all the information that’s been shared here and will surely use it!
My general rule of thumb with subsonic load dev: do a backwards charge weight pressure test to see if bullets are stabilizing around the 1000fps WITHOUT the can.
Some good advise here. Rigid cardboard is your friend to see the results of stability.
AR39 and “tack driver” don’t really strike me as realistic. Care to elaborate more on the build? Thanks.
Thanks I will definitely be testing without can first, I don’t even have it yet. Just not exactly sure how to tell they are stabilizing 100% other than inspecting paper holes.
It is a rifle that was built by AR Performance when they were still in Colorado. It was my first AR and I’ve made a few modifications over the years but it has always surprised me how accurate it is.
It’s kind of the only way to tell. Either you get clean holes at 75-100 yards, or you get oblong keyholes.
Interesting thread. Has anyone experimented with Hunters Supply slick coat? I have made a few these for 238 gr in both 311 and 308 dia, as well as 303 british in 174 gr. The HS 308 did not group well at all in my CZ 527. I am planning to make enough of the HS 311 to get good statistics and go from there. Have not tried Acme yet.
