Some good advise here. Rigid cardboard is your friend to see the results of stability.My general rule of thumb with subsonic load dev: do a backwards charge weight pressure test to see if bullets are stabilizing around the 1000fps WITHOUT the can.
AR39 and “tack driver” don’t really strike me as realistic. Care to elaborate more on the build? Thanks.New member but have been following this thread for a while.
I’ve had an x39 AR for about 13 years. It’s always been a track driver and even though barrel is .310 I’ve come up with some very accurate reloads using .308 bullets. Barrel has thousands of rounds through it but hasn’t lost any accuracy at all.
I finally pulled the trigger on a can (still in jail) but really want to work up a great subsonic load. My barrel is 1:10 twist so I’m nervous that I’d be risking blowing up the can if my barrel can’t stabilize the big slow bullets.
I would love to hear opinions from those with experience to help me.
I appreciate all the information that’s been shared here and will surely use it!
It is a rifle that was built by AR Performance when they were still in Colorado. It was my first AR and I’ve made a few modifications over the years but it has always surprised me how accurate it is.AR39 and “tack driver” don’t really strike me as realistic. Care to elaborate more on the build? Thanks.
It’s kind of the only way to tell. Either you get clean holes at 75-100 yards, or you get oblong keyholes.Just not exactly sure how to tell they are stabilizing 100% other than inspecting paper holes.